Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: WunderCade on January 03, 2008, 06:12:35 pm
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I just received my cap kits from Bob Roberts. Nice guy...my first order from him and he gave me a free pen. Anyways.....
What would be the best method of removing the boards from the chassis? Any tricks or hints or suggestions from people who've done this cap kit before? Pitfalls to avoid?
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Is the monitor mounted vertically?
DISCHARGE THE MONITOR!!!!!
When you remove the largest chassis board you will also have to remove a number of other boards. Carefully remove the small yoke board directly from the back of the monitor, the audio amp board, the transformer, and the adjustment pot board. You can leave all these board "dangling" from the one main board as you do the cap kit.
Now the cap kit... take your time, and mark off each capacitor as you a replace it.
lutus
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Yes, it's mounted vertically. Thanks for your input, that's exactly what I needed to know.
Did you ask if it was vertical because you think I should leave it in the cab?
Thanks again.
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Verify the orientation of the caps BEFORE you pull the old ones out. Sometimes the chassis is labeled wrong. So be sure to put the negative lead where the old negative lead came from, etc.
Good ol' Bob.... good to hear he still practices "lagniappe".
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The reason I ask if it was vertical is because on my Donkey Kong machine.....
Ok, my board had one screw that I had a ridiculously hard time getting out because their was no room to put a screwdriver. The other edges of the board simply "slip-under" some mounting guides and then the whole thing snaps onto all those little white tabs.
If you have removed the single screw already there should be no issue, but I had to get creative.
When the monitor is mounted horizontally it is usually a non-issue.
Have you tried removing that board already?
Also, after you get the board back in there and right before you go to hook up the anode to the monitor, it is not a bad idea to brush the anode against the monitor chassis to discharge the whole thing again.
When you hook that anode back up......remember, one hand in the pocket. ;)
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It's the anode hole on the tube that you really have to watch out for..... that's the one that'll sneek up and bite ya. ;)
I recommend discharging the hole again before trying to put the anode back on.
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Also, as I'm gearing up for this....do I go with the smallest solder tip and a very small solder gauge/wire?
How do you guys deal with the "third hand" dilemma? :timebomb:
I'm finding that I need one hand to hold the iron + one hand to apply the solder + then a third to hold the dang wire lead to the post I want to solder it to. :banghead:
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This is helpful information. I need to do a cap kit on my Gorf and was looking at it yesterday and tryinig to figure out if the whole monitor needs to come out or if I just remove the boards.
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Also, as I'm gearing up for this....do I go with the smallest solder tip and a very small solder gauge/wire?
How do you guys deal with the "third hand" dilemma? :timebomb:
I'm finding that I need one hand to hold the iron + one hand to apply the solder + then a third to hold the dang wire lead to the post I want to solder it to. :banghead:
try tinning the post and the wire then all you need to is applly heat at the contact point
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Also, as I'm gearing up for this....do I go with the smallest solder tip and a very small solder gauge/wire?
How do you guys deal with the "third hand" dilemma? :timebomb:
I'm finding that I need one hand to hold the iron + one hand to apply the solder + then a third to hold the dang wire lead to the post I want to solder it to. :banghead:
try tinning the post and the wire then all you need to is applly heat at the contact point
In different words..... apply some solder to the wire, apply solder to the post, then with one hand position the wire to the post, with the other hand apply heat to both with the soldering iron.
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Very cool...now I feel like a real dumbass for not just figuring that out myself. :cheers:
Thanks.
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Very cool...now I feel like a real dumbass for not just figuring that out myself. :cheers:
Thanks.
I wouldn't go as far as to say "dumbass".
Some learn from schools, some learn from experience, some learn by really screwing things up the first time or two.
In the end it's all about learning.
The only dumb question is one that was never asked.
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Whoops, meant the anode hole, and brush the SCREWDRIVER (connected to the chassis) across it. Dang, even that sentence didn't make sense.
WHAT KEVIN SAID.
Now I feel better. :D
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Eh .... that's alright ....
Most people fear the anode "wire" So I always like to inform them that it's the tube that holds the charge like a giant capacitor. And that's the thing that will get ya.
I never claim to know it all..... but I can damn sure tell you what has bit me before.
;)
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Do you typically need to remove the whole monitor to do a cap kit, or just the boards?
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It really just depends on how easy the cabinet is to get in and out of.
Some you can easily unmount the chassis and pull just the chassis to do the work, some it's easier to just pull the whole monitor in order to get access to the chassis.
"Typically" though you just need to pull the boards.
In a case like the Sanyo 20EZ.... I recommend pulling the whole monitor.
The only other one that can be a pain is the WG K4600.
But it still boils down to how much room you have to work in and how comfortable you feel.
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The only other one that can be a pain is the WG K4600.
Great. Just checked which monitor I have in my Gorf and it's the WG K4600. Looks like the whole monitor needs to come out as I don't see any way to remove the bolts for the chassi while the monitor is in place.