Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: genesim on January 01, 2008, 02:22:13 pm
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Just wanted to show people that I made a restrictor plate for Happs Heavy Duty 8 Way. Works great and it wasn't too bad to do-took about 15 minutes.
I know it looks a little rough, but it serves the purpose, and I have plenty of plexi left to do more, if I wasn't so lazy. ;D
Tron plays great especially the light cycle level. Also computer games work better as well. The trackball is all you need for diagonals, so in essense there is never accidental erratic movement anymore.
Battlezone for my set up works good too! Project page for a full pic.
Take care and happy new year!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v27/genesim/DSC00796.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v27/genesim/DSC00797.jpg)
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Couple this with the upper restrictor that Encryptor is selling (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=71229.0) in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum, and you'll be set.
I wouldn't do just the bottom one because that puts all the stress on the bottom one.
The sticks were designed to have the majority of the stress on the upper urethane restrictor, with the bottom restrictor lightly guiding the other end of the stick.
That's not to put this piece down at all because both pieces are necessary to have the stick feel completely right.
It will function as a 4-way with either restrictor alone, but will accelerate the wear.
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You make an excellent point.. and I may or may not have more work to do.
In looking at the top restrictor it is indeed thicker, so that might be a problem. But with a little bit of ingenuity, I might be able to get past this hurdle. Damn...a lot more routing to go.
As a side note, the bottom original restrictor doesn't seem to let the sides or top hit exactly. Probably poor engineering, but it is still a curiousity.
Hell though. If it goes bad, I can just replace it. It is still a problem worth looking into though. I will post up if the situation changes.
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Ok got a problem. The 4 metal pieces are welded to the top, so there is no way to get the grommet out!!!
So the next step, and I don't think it is worth it...is to put a grommet on top of the other.
The problem is that it would have to be permanent so as not to move!
I am sure a piece of plastic or a metal possibly would do the trick. For me, I don't think it is that serious. I don't play games that hard, and this plastic piece at the bottom is likely to last 20 years!
Anywhere here is a picture for the idea. A small lip on top shows that it can be done. Look at both arrows to see what I mean.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v27/genesim/50997000_exploded.gif)
This does work real good now without the top, and it doesn't feel cheap!
I still thank you for bringing this to my attention though. It was a pain to remove.
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The Midway ones have piece #96-4100-00 screwed to the top plate, trapping the urethane restrictor.
I've never disassembled a Happ's one, so I don't know what does, and doesn't come apart.
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I got an idea to cut a dust washer to the diamond shap and glue it to the top. If you look, there is alittle room at the top in the thickness of the top plate.
Yeah it sucks, but perhaps better then nothing.
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The one thing I don't understand after looking at this diagram is this.
Why would they list a part number for something that is welded in place?
Or list part numbers for the other pieces that are held in place by the welded pieces.
Are you positive they are welded and don't have maybe a stud welded to the top plate and the other pieces screw onto those studs? I wish I had one to look at but I don't.
Encryptor
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I twisted it pretty hard, but I am afraid of breaking it off. I am going to call happs and find out soon.
You do got a valid point, and it would sure make things easier. Don't worry, I will bump and check back as soon as I know.