Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: MK3FAN on December 21, 2007, 11:27:47 pm
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Ok. Got a brand new Wells Gardner 25" monitor chassis. My old one still worked but it was time to replace it. When I transfer all the connectors over, the monitor doesn't work. I can hear the chassis turn on, but NOTHING happens to the monitor itself. The only thing that powers up is the chassis. You can see the tube light up a bit, but the screen stays blank. When I hook the old chassis back up, the monitor works fine. I can't figure this out. My H/V wires are correct along with the anode cup, but I am baffled. Below are some pics to help illustrate. If anyone cane help, please do. Thanks in advance - Mike.
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/3216/1005244no1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/982/1005246zs2.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/970/1005247pn7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/3456/1005249gp2.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9263/1005251fx7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
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do you get any glow from the tube heaters?
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u will need to a perform basic setup......( old crt, new chassis)
when pwred up, turn up the screen grid ( lower pot on fly) till image appears .
then adjust focus as needed ( top pot on fly)
adjust vert/horiz size and position to preference .
then turn brightness and contrast to min , then turn down screen grid till image is just barely visible.
then turn up brightness and contrast to desired levels.
some games provide a color staircase with greyscale . adjust rgb drives for good bw tracking and drive levels.
if all working properly , should then have decent pic.
qrz
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do you get any glow from the tube heaters?
Yes.
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u will need to a perform basic setup......( old crt, new chassis)
when pwred up, turn up the screen grid ( lower pot on fly) till image appears .
then adjust focus as needed ( top pot on fly)
adjust vert/horiz size and position to preference .
then turn brightness and contrast to min , then turn down screen grid till image is just barely visible.
then turn up brightness and contrast to desired levels.
some games provide a color staircase with greyscale . adjust rgb drives for good bw tracking and drive levels.
if all working properly , should then have decent pic.
qrz
Thanks! I'll give all that a try.
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What model of WG chassis did you have?
What is the impedence of the yoke windings?
I had a WG with the same crappy Zenith tube, and it blew up my WeiYa 826HR this summer. It fried at least the HOT, and I haven't had a chance to debug it. Ken thought the yoke had an internal short or was a medium res yoke, either of which causing the deflection circuit to fry.
If you have it connected and you hear the high voltage crackle (and assume you have zap when you discharge to put back on the old chassis), then all you should need to do is turn up the screen control on the flyback and even without input you should get a bright white raster with retrace lines showing. If you can't get than than something's wrong with the replacement chassis.