Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Organic Jerk on November 12, 2007, 11:33:05 pm
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(http://i.walmart.com/i/p/00/84/60/42/06/0084604206018_215X215.jpg)
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5633690 (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5633690)
Bought this TV after seeing it at Wal-mart... 24"... not much to trim off sides... COMPONENT INPUT.... Sounds like a beautiful buy...
Boy did I learn my lesson..
1) It doesn't power on automatically after having power shut on then back on...
2) When being turned back on after having power cut, It gives an obnoxious warning message about the clock and how you need to set the time again because of the loss of power..
I'm not a happy customer.
Just a warning out there for any potential buyers...
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Ought to make a Good/Bad TV list.
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Absolutely!
Also include what hookups it comes with, and which ones you use ?
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Absolutely!
Also include what hookups it comes with, and which ones you use ?
Yeah, something along those lines. Other things that should be included in, more or less, order of importance.
Brand
Date of purchase or manufacture.
Country of origin (Europeans and their bastard SCART!!)
Screen type (CRT, LCD, Plasma, etc) and manufacturer (if available)
Screen Size
Ease of modification (based of skill)
Overall grade or ranking (I know this is subjective, but figure the law of averages)
You know, basic stuff. (That's a loaded statement, isn't it?)
It would be nice to aggregate the information into a searchable database where everything is in a predictable and structured way. Not just for T.V.s but for full fledged monitors as well. Downloadable manuals wherever possible, common problems, modification notes, variation notes, etc.
For instance, I had problems initially identifying a WG K7??? because I was using the wrong search terms. Once someone here clued me in with information, I was able to dig up much more information but it's all over the place. I requested schematics and misc information from another member here (thank you menace :applaud: ), bits of information, cap layout and parts at Bob Roberts site. Rnadom information everywhere else.
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1) It doesn't power on automatically after having power shut on then back on...
Can you open it up and hardwire it so it is tied directly into your machine's main power switch?
2) When being turned back on after having power cut, It gives an obnoxious warning message about the clock and how you need to set the time again because of the loss of power...
There is probably a way to bypass that too with some creative rewiring.
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rca seems to be running on name recognition only.
finished a 2yr old 27" a few days ago that has no product support . the only parts available is the keyboard .
still can do component level repairs when one knows where to get parts !
they aren't the only mfg playing that game . just too much chinese junk !!!
qrz
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Can you keep power on it an only turn it off with the on/off switch or remote? This should keep your time and other settings.
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rca seems to be running on name recognition only.
finished a 2yr old 27" a few days ago that has no product support . the only parts available is the keyboard .
At least you got that. I have a seven year old Sharp TV that I've had to rebuild the user interface bezel twice now because Sharp never seemed to have the replacement available. The first repair occured at year 2, the second occured at around year... five I think. I had it in storage the past year and the UIB has collapsed so it needs to be rebuilt a third time! I'm thinking of hitting up Mouser and hard wiring a proper mechanical UIB this time. If I'm lucky, my GF might buy her flat screen before I can repair the Sharp. Then I'll be able to reclaim the boob tube for an arcade cab. :)
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rca seems to be running on name recognition only.
finished a 2yr old 27" a few days ago that has no product support . the only parts available is the keyboard .
At least you got that. I have a seven year old Sharp TV that I've had to rebuild the user interface bezel twice now because Sharp never seemed to have the replacement available. The first repair occured at year 2, the second occured at around year... five I think. I had it in storage the past year and the UIB has collapsed so it needs to be rebuilt a third time! I'm thinking of hitting up Mouser and hard wiring a proper mechanical UIB this time. If I'm lucky, my GF might buy her flat screen before I can repair the Sharp. Then I'll be able to reclaim the boob tube for an arcade cab. :)
that set was originally a lightning strike repaired during the summer ( typical damage to smps). it had since developed a problem due to an eeprom error and defective tact switches. component level repair both times .
i don't like to play the prt nla game w/mfgrs :angry:
what is ur sharp model ? might have ur part, or may know where to obtain ?...as am also a member @ a tv tech site: www.wa6ati.com. >> sharing knowledge is great <<
qrz
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what is ur sharp model ? might have ur part, or may know where to obtain ?...as am also a member @ a tv tech site: www.wa6ati.com. >> sharing knowledge is great <<
Thanks for the offer. I'm thinking I'm going to switch modes when rebuilding the front panel. The original is comprised of buttons mounted on very thin plastic "L" shaped springs. Push too hard and the spring tears itself apart. In the past, I've attempted to rebuild the "L" springs, originally molding my own plastic and again using metal springs. Apparantly, the overall design of the UI isn't really intended to last. :angry: I had a Zenith VCR that exhibited the exact same problem.
This time, I'm going to hit up Radio Shack or Digikey for similarly sized and shaped buttons, construct my own mount and simply bolt the switches in this time. I've regained an interest in soldering again, so this should be good practice. With a baby and a seven year old in the house, even if I did get the OEM replacement, it'll break within a few months.
I notice the S-Video and Cable jacks are kind of weak as well. Push too hard and they seem to bend back and stay. Probably replace those with proper mountings while I'm at it.
I'm really more interested in obtaining the service manual for this TV. I'd like to see what my service menu options are and find out what the two mystery SIP pins (OTTOMH, a 5-pin and a 3-pin) tucked behind the case. I'd like to see if they're anything interesting. I noticed them last time I had it apart, but I was in too much of a hurry to investigate at the time.
It's a Sharp 27N-S100.
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hmmmmm..., that model # sounds familiar .... will check the boneyard and advise if i have one ....
qrz
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Can you keep power on it an only turn it off with the on/off switch or remote? This should keep your time and other settings.
True, but I was hoping to hook the TV up to the smartstrip and have everything be as clean as possible...
Ought to make a Good/Bad TV list.
I Agree... I can contribute info about the two TV's I've encountered so far...
Can you open it up and hardwire it so it is tied directly into your machine's main power switch?
There is probably a way to bypass that too with some creative rewiring.
I would have no clue on how to start either of these, and any flimsy concepts I may have on how things work may just end up putting me in big trouble.. =P
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SavannahLion , i do indeed have that set with intact buttons...
the button prt #'s are :
JBTN-1096MEK1 "pwr/vol"
JBTN-1097MEK1 "button right"
should u wish to attempt to order new . was NOT listed as inactive or discontinued parts
do have the print (somewhere ?) for this chassis, as i recall ordering one a few yrs back.
the button design is not exclusive to sharp . others have used this same approach with equally poor results.
a couple of things that may help are adding a bead of silicone rubber to the pivot points and/or embedding a solid wire into the part . the later is reserved for those adept with a soldering pencil .
qrz
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SavannahLion , i do indeed have that set with intact buttons...
the button prt #'s are :
JBTN-1096MEK1 "pwr/vol"
JBTN-1097MEK1 "button right"
should u wish to attempt to order new . was NOT listed as inactive or discontinued parts
I have no plans to order those parts new. I figure the set is only going to live there for another year or two before we get our big screen. At that point I'll relegate it elsewhere in the house. I'll just use some beefier switches and solder them onto the board.
do have the print (somewhere ?) for this chassis, as i recall ordering one a few yrs back.
That would have my interest.
the button design is not exclusive to sharp . others have used this same approach with equally poor results.
a couple of things that may help are adding a bead of silicone rubber to the pivot points and/or embedding a solid wire into the part . the later is reserved for those adept with a soldering pencil .
That should be something to try next time. It seems a lot of consumer electronics are using a similar shoddy design.