Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: paulkortne on May 04, 2003, 10:52:22 pm
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Or maybe something else?
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meh...i say Tempered glass.
Other then that,everything scratchs easy...
This has been discused before but . . .
Get Tempered glass cut to size if you have any local glass cutting place around you. :)
He explains...
http://www.geocities.com/brian_coney/page3.html
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"Tamper Proof Glass" ??? ::) ??? Whatever that is.
Where are you placing the glass? Is it the monitor bezel in an upright? You can go with Plexi/Lexan or regular glass there.
If it's for the top of a cocktail table, ONLY use either 1/4" Lexan or 1/4" TEMPERED glass. Do NOT use plexi (too easy to scratch and do not use plate (aka window) glass as one hard slam of a bottle on it and the thing will shatter into big sharp shards of glass.
You do not need to temper glass in from of a monitor on an upright (but certainly CAN, it's just an extra expense) as you're likely not going to be hitting it at all or at least very hard. I'd actually use .15"-.25" Lexan there (again not plexi as it scratches, but not as much of an issue as a cocktail top).
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"Tamper Proof Glass" ??? ::) ??? Whatever that is.
thats how the "dudes" at this arcade warehouse calls it(local).
I meant regular glass...thick like 1/8" though.
I bought the glass from this warehouse for my cabinet.they had a piece laying around that was perfect for my cabinet.Only $20.
PS:chill out everyone..my mistake :-X.
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"Tamper proof" is what you get on an Advil bottle. Tempered glass is something that you can get from a glass shop or home depot.
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Tempered Glass
Plexi
Lexan
In that order. Lexan is actually the strongest and therefore, softest. The harder you get, the more brittle your material. Thats why tempered glass shatters when it reaches it's breaking point. Lexan will just flex.
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The problem with tempered glass is that you can't cut it. Glass has to be tempered after any work is done on it.
Tempered glass is intentionally filled with internal stresses which is why it explodes instead of breaking along long lines of molecules. Those aligned molecules create the sharp shards when normal glass is broken.
Neither polycarbonate or acrylic is very good at resisting scratches. The best bet is to find some of the "non-glare" acrylic. It has an etched-looking surface that will still scratch, but won't be as noticable. :)
RandyT