Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: HeadRusch on April 29, 2003, 01:37:52 pm
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Cutting it: Circular saw with standard blade or Jigsaw on slow speed using a straight edge as a jig?
Drilling through it: Slow and steady to keep from cracking/melting?
I was at home depot today (4th time in 2 weeks, I must be building a cab!) but forgot the damn lexan :(
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I did all of my lexan cutting using a laminate router bit. I don't think i'd even want to try using a jig/circular saw for fear of cracking.
Drilling generally works best by using the drill in reverse. Sure, it's not as fast, but you're MUCH less likely to crack the lexan that way. Larger holes are especially problematic since the larger size drill bits are more likely to "catch" and crack the lexan. Spade and hole bits don't have this problem, only standard bits do.
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You don't have to worry too much about hurting/chipping/cracking Lexan. It's very tough stuff. You could drill through it at full speed with no problems. However the same is NOT true for Plexiglass. Plexi is very weak and brittle. Anyways, you will be fine. No need to be too cautious. It is a little prone to scratching when working with power tools though. Good luck :)
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I got lexan from Home depot and plastic store before...
cutting.... I think using router and laminate edge cleaning bit will give you a very nice result...
but all I did was jig saw with a blade with small teeth....
the result is good to me....
(I did NOT try with circular saw...)
as for drilling.... no need to go reverse... and no need to go slow.... I drill it full speed forward.... I don't recall any melting or messing up.... result is good... (at least for my standard...)
Just want to make sure... I'm only working with thin lexan... like 1/16 or 1/8... (or whatever thin stuffs....)
basically.... treat it like wood..... (but put some scrap piece to give it support... since its thin....)
but... if you're drilling thru like an inch thick of lexan (or something like that.... it could be different... ;)
good luck....
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lexan = good lol
I have used: rotozip, circsaw, tablesaw, drill bits, spade bits, router laminate bits you nam eit and hav enot had ANY problems cutting it. Also keep in mind i am not patient and will cut like a banshee so it must be good shiz.
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Lexan IS the material of choice but regular Acrylic is no harder to work with if you use the proper tools. Like anything.....
You can cut Acrylic with a table saw or jig saw. On your table saw use a carbide tipped blade with lots of teeth. Make sure you use jig saw blades made for Acrylic or as you cut, the material will melt back together behind the blade.
Drilling Acrylic requires a drill bit with a 90 degree angle on it - most wood drill bits are a 60 degree angle. The additional slope allows the tip to break out without breaking the material.
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I'm not sure if mine is plexiglass or lexan, but it worked cutting it with a circular saw. We sandwiched it in between 2 pieces of wood, then cut through the 'sandwich' and it worked great. :)
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I went to Depot and picked up Crystallite (cheaper than the official Lexan)...was $25 for a very large piece 20x40? (1/8" thick)...but, when I asked the guy to cut it for me, he scored it, and put about a 6" crack on one of the edges.. Now, I still had half of the panel that was still good, but since the guy put a crack in the other side, and probably also because he was new and didn't give a crap, he gave the sheet to me for $5.
Drilling with a spade bit worked fine (don't use a rechargable drill, it'll take too long), and I'm glad I didn't pay $45 or more for the fancy stuff. See if you can pick up a scrap there and see for yourself.
p.s. It don't cut as easy as MDF. I wish everything did.
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I'm going tomorrow morning to see what depot offers...I'm gonna come home and start my cutting, I've got the basic box design down.
Now the big question: Do I cut the lexan seperately, or do I mount the lexan to the uncut piece and cut both materials at once?
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use a flush cut bit in your router and cut the lexan on top of the CP. comes out perfect.
I have a little area on mine where the spade bit jumped in between a few of the buttns. Nto going to spend another 22 bucks for a new piece so this on ewill have to do. moral here is go slow.
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Welp I just got done cutting my base piece, and now I've got my lexan from the Depot.
Those heartless bastiches charnged me...ugh...47 bucks for the sheet. But it is 2 feet by 4 feet (my CP is 4 player, so its gonna be a roomy 48" Wide hence I needed da big sheets.
I could have paid half that and ordered online, but I succumed to "I WANT THIS NOW!" pressure and walked out with it. No worries.....35 shipped or 45 in my hand....its still pricy stuff. If I mess it up, you'll be able to hear the screams from wherever you are ;)
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wow mine was 37. but take it back if its not too late. the crystallite crap is much cheaper and is also polycarbonate. your paying for hte lexan name.
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I've found it way cheaper at custom glass shops as well. Home Depot seriously gouges you. Their prices are ridiculous.
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Like I said, that industrial supply place sells the exact same sheet for $27.00 before shipping.
Did I get raped? Of course.
The more obscure the item is, the more the Depot will stick it to you....I knew I was gonna pay through the nose but like I said, I just wanted it today, and be done with it. If I mess this piece up somehow, I'm swearing like a sailor, and then ordering online....but its one of those "i need this....this is the reason I came here today...oh....damnit..ok, I'll take it. <grumble grumble grumble>"...
;)
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Ax, the only Crystallite wasn't available in the size I needed it at. My CP is 48" Wide, the biggest piece they had was 40" I think.
Hence, I had to go with the name brand.
PS: According to the store, Crystallite and Lexan are both made by GE...which means they aren't the same stuff, wonder what the difference really is. My expensive lexan has a UV coating however..so....so there ;)
"Look honey, our CP is bulletproof"