Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: paulkortne on April 28, 2003, 11:24:49 pm
-
I am thinking of possibly using colored skateboard bolts on my next cp. I used carrage bolts on my first one, and am not too happy with how they turned out. They are too big, and i can't put enough around the sides to keep the lexan down without it looking like bolts were put everywhere. Skateboard bolts are smaller, and have flat heads.
With skateboard bolts, there are many cool varieties. I have seen neat designs on the top of the bolts such as skulls and aliens. There are colored bolts and ones that glow in the dark. If anyone has used colored bolts on their panel, please post the link, because i'm interested in seeing how they turned out.
Check out www.ccs.com if your interested in getting colored bolts. But if you're interested in bolts with designs on them, you'll probably have to go to a local skateboard shop.
-
That sounds like a good idea. I might use it on my cab 2. :)
Here is a link directly to the bolts:
http://shop.ccs.com/catalog/browse/productgroup.asp?CATALOGID=24&PARENT=14&STORE=SKATESTORE
-
I generally use whatever I have, and then color them black with a sharpy. (Since what I have tends to be evenly mixed between black, silver, and rust).
-
Will these bolts fit through the holes in my joysticks? If so here is the more important question:
Do these bolts accomplish the same thing as countersinking, without the countersink?
Edit: I don't really care what the bolts look like as I plan to laminate over the top of them -- hence the need for a countersink.
-
You are supposed to see the bolts on your control panel top. This not only adds some visual detail to a otherwise flat plain, but holds the plexi overly ect down firmly. You don't want to countersink because you'll have to take all that mess on top off before you change a stick out for matienance ect.
-
The last time I went to an arcade I saw few, if any, cp's that had bolts showing aside from one in each corner of the plexi. There were only about 8 or 10 games or so as it was just a little movie theater arcade, but...
I wasn't planning on using plexi, though, for better or worse. I'm planning to laminate my control panel with a brushed aluminum laminate and not planning to use artwork on the panel. I know, blasphemy, yada yada yada.... I'll just have to rely on the buttons and sticks themselves as a counterweight to the otherwise flat plain issue.
Question, though: If I need to remove the stick can't I just pull the nuts off and remove them from the bottom...carriage bolts remaining in place? I've never mounted a joystick or buttons yet.
-
huh huh... you said "pull the nuts off..." huh huh...
sorry, nothing to add here, just being an ass.
-
I used bolts like the skateboard ones shown. They weren't actual skateboard bolts but work the same. I don't see why you can't just remove the nuts - the bolts stay in place, take off the joy, do what you need to and replace it.
You're supposed to do whatever you want to your panel. I didn't want bolts showing at all on mine and I think it looks great. I did it, even though I wasn't supposed to. The buttons hold the lexan down fine. I hope the BYOAC police don't get me. Also, I left it black under the lexan, used nice plain black sign vinyl. I'm also on the run from the artwork police. I'll have to go into witness protection soon.
"This is the BYOACP. Come out with your hands up. You're surrounded. We know you have an illegal unbolted, unadorned control panel in there. Put down that joystick and give yourself up. If you do, you'll be reformed and live to play another day"
-
Question, though: If I need to remove the stick can't I just pull the nuts off and remove them from the bottom...carriage bolts remaining in place? I've never mounted a joystick or buttons yet.
Yes but here is what is going to happen. One day you'll be removing/reattaching a stick and happen to hit a bolt a little crooked. Bam! nice big crack in your laminate. Also you are then dedicated to that layout and can never change it.
-
ahhh...the memories...I remember how cool it was when lucky came out with the green bolt to help you distinguish the front of your board from the back! I had a set of those on mine; they were rad.
-
huh huh... you said "pull the nuts off..." huh huh...
sorry, nothing to add here, just being an ass.
LMAO - soda flying out my nostrils!
heh - heh
-
The skateboard bolts fit great in my Happ Comp. Joystick. I countersunk them without having to do anything other than tighten them until i liked how far into the wood they got.
Also, skateboard bolts are a hell of a lot easier to remove from Lexan than carrage bolts are.
-
Kick ass! I'm using them. That's all there is to it. I think Howard is right that one day I will want to make a change. At that time it'll be a pain in the ass to tear the laminate off to get at my trackball mounting plate and I'll have to start with a brand new piece of wood (probably would have had to do that anyway), so here's hoping that it turns out cool and my tastes remain static for at least a year or two.
-
I'm thinking of countersinking because it looks neater. I agree with shmokes very few modern arcade machines have bolts that show.
Also it's possible that if you put the bolts through the plexiglass and over-tighten them you could crack the plexiglass.
I am toying with the idea of pushing the bolts through the underside of the panel and them fixing them to the top of the panel with countersunk T-Nuts. I'm wondering whether anyone else has tried this. Would it be strong enough?
http://www.happcontrols.com/images/40/43048600.gif
-
Are all of those long enough? They are all 1" and the shortest bolts Bob Roberts sells are 1 1/4". He also sells 2" bolts.
-
They seem to come in two sizes: 1" and 1 1/4". I got 1 1/4" and it was more than enough for my panel which is 3/4" thick MDF with 1/8" lexan
-
i got my bolts from a local skate shop. 4 bolts and 4 nuts = 80 cents.
-
Oh, and the nuts are about 1/8" thick