The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: ARTIFACT on August 15, 2007, 03:07:47 am
-
do I *have* to order and use a "trackball mount plate" to install the 3" Happ trackball on my 3/4" plywood CP?
Is there a way for me to mount it under, by using a router to inset, and use screws from the top (like the joysticks but with an inset under)?
the way I see it, the ball comes out but only screws are visible on the CP top ... I've seen pics of that done here - but I want to double check
Thanks!
-
Right or wrong, that's how I did it.
I don't find any problems using it or playing
stuff like Golden Tee. One thing I might do
differently is use flat screws vs round but
I can change it later after a trip to the hw store.
There's more info and photos on my trackball
install page:
http://www.freewebs.com/vidmouse/trackballmousehack.htm
-
Thanks vidmouse
I plan to order an adhesive-backed CPO from mamemarquees.com and add a plexiglass sheet on top.
-
i did the same thing with my 3" wico trackball and it worked fine. If done it in two different panels. the first one was covered in colored plexiglass that was opaque. i cut out the wood entirely for that one and bolted the trackball just through the plexi, that worked just fine. when i did my second panel, i didnt cover it with plexi, so i routed out from behind all but about 3/16" and that also worked just fine. you dont need a mounting plate.
-
when i did my second panel, i didnt cover it with plexi, so i routed out from behind all but about 3/16" and that also worked just fine. you dont need a mounting plate.
that sounds like something I can do - thanks
I think I'll order the mount anyway... I am ordering from Divemaster and it's only an extra ~$10.99 which is not much in the scheme of things.
goood to know it's possible without.
-
If your going to order the plate still but don't want it to show heres a tip that i used. I top mounted my trackball, and I used a flush trim router bit to make the mounting plate flush with the rest of the panel. No screws showed and my artwork fit perfectly over everything.
-
excellent... I will do that
I *just* ordered it from Divemaster127 woooow :)
-
I plan to order an adhesive-backed CPO from mamemarquees.com and add a plexiglass sheet on top.
This is what I plan on doing. However, recently I read that you need to Bondo out the surface of the CP (OVER the mount) before you put the adhesive CPO on and the plexi on top. Otherwise you'll see every bump or pebble grain from the mounting plate. Is this your plan as well?
PS- sorry if this question is too much of a hi-jack. :p It was regarding a trackball mount so hopefully it'll fit in.
-
no worries!! ;)
this is something I also read while searching BYOAC ... very interesting.
I'll use Wood Fill (already got that, and am used to it) then.
I assume that the mount plate gets inset even more than just flush to the top then ... to have some area to fill with bondo/woodfill? (then sand smooth)
-
I would think so. But then again, if you put the mount deeper into the control panel, where would the lip of the trackball lay in relation to your plexi? I imagine that ideally you would want the lip over the top of your plexi...
-
This is what I plan on doing. However, recently I read that you need to Bondo out the surface of the CP (OVER the mount) before you put the adhesive CPO on and the plexi on top. Otherwise you'll see every bump or pebble grain from the mounting plate....
That's possible if you have the black powder finished plate. The "clear zinc" won't (except maybe around the edges). Also, it depends on the thickness and material of the overlay. A thin overlay will clearly show the powder finish, but a hard, thick overlay might not.
...But then again, if you put the mount deeper into the control panel, where would the lip of the trackball lay in relation to your plexi? I imagine that ideally you would want the lip over the top of your plexi...
I'd want the top of the lip to be exactly level with the top surface of the CP, the top of the plexi in this case. I've seen the lip sticking higher that the surface; IMO it's ugly and the lip is in the way of the ball so if you run your hand along the surface, it will hit the lip instead of the ball.
The high lip TB models has a 3/16" lip, which is perfect for the 1/16" mounting plate + a 1/8" plexi, or directly under 3/16" plexi. Overlays are usually thin enough (1/64"-1/32") to not make a noticeable difference. But over 1/32" is too much IMO, and it's easier to fix a protruding lip (four plastic spacer washers) than a recessed lip (thinner plexi or route round edge plexi). So be careful how deep you route the plate.
-
very interesting - thank you for all these details
I will take my time, and do several tests before I commit to do the final CP board
I'll post updates in my project thread when I get to this part ... Shipping will probably take ~1 week for the TB
thanks again. BYOAC is amazing
-
Yes, thanks rebelscum. I've read a lot of your posts on the subject and you cleared a few things up. So if I get the best quality CPO from mamemarquees and a zinc mounting plate, I should be Ok as far as uneven surface showing though the top?
Oh, and again, sorry Artifact if this is getting too off-topic. Hopefully it'll help you as well.
-
It does :) it's all good
-
Just a quick question are you going with Plexi, or Lexan? I highly reccomend Lexan that stuff is way better than plexi and much easier to cut.
-
I am not sure if the shop I go to carries Lexan.. I believe it's polycarbonate (sounds like plexi)
In what way(s) is lexan better? more scratch-prone? (and what is different about cutting it)
Thanks!
-
I think
Polycarbonate (Generic)=Lexan (Brand name)
Acrylic (Generic)=Plexiglas (Brand name)
-
Lexan is 10 easier to cut, you can pretty much go full speed with your drill and not have to work about hot melting plastic like you would have to with Plexi. Its also shatter proof so you dont have to worry about it cracking (again like plexi). Lexan is the greatest invention like sliced bread. I can also do the dishes, clean your room and still put dinner on the table.
LONG LIVE LEXAN. :notworthy:
Seriously Lexan is great the only drawback is i believe Plexi may edge it in scratch resistence but the trade off is more than worth it
-
I think
Polycarbonate (Generic)=Lexan (Brand name)
Acrylic (Generic)=Plexiglas (Brand name)
OK I'll check with the folks at the plastic store where I get all my plexi ... pretty sure they said Polycarbonate - I'll ask them if it's the same as Lexan (without the brand name).
Thanks!
-
I buy my Lexan at Home Depot. If you router out the top of the CP and mount the plate flush, the trackball lip will be perfectly flush with the lexan. Be sure to remove that square ring that ships with the Happ trackball. Also, a great finishing touch is to set your router bit up to shave a 45 degree angle around the inside of the 3" hole in your lexan. Good luck
-
If you have a router, cutting plexi with it is like cutting butter. No need to do any sandwiching or anything like that as long as you are using the router to do the cutting. Using drill or something else, that's another story and will need to take some time and effort not to crack it.
I would cut the hole on mdf or wood first, then us it as a template to cut the plexi using your router.
-
interesting information here thanks guys!
i do have a router and will use it as much as possible...
i have a couple of questions about router usage:
. how do you cut 1 1/8'' button holes with a router?
. also, is there a post explaining the concept and howto for router templates?
thanks
-
Cut the wood 1st with either a 1 1/8 spade or holesaw first. I found making the hole using that is easier than using the router. For me, spade bit is a bit faster.
Then add the plexi to it on top (assuming you are using a flush trimmering bit, the one with a wheel at the bottom). Make sure to clamp it down tightly.
Now take a straight trimming bit and make a small hole in each hole that you have created thru the plexi. The small hole need to be bigger than the flush trimming bit. You might want to do some practice on this before attempt on the control panel, but once you get it, it's quite easy to cut the plexi. What I do is put it into each hole slowly letting the router bit melt the plexi, then gentally left it with both hand and move to the next one.
Once all the hole has a small hole, switch to the flush trimming bit and round off each hole.
That's it.
-
thank you for posting these details
I already have a 1 1/8" hole saw and used it on my 1st prototype CP
Newbie Question: so the flush trimming bit "slides" along the 1 1/8" hole in the wood?
I am new to routers - I used it to cut my speaker grill slots and round some edges, but not to do this template stuff :)
-
thank you for posting these details
I already have a 1 1/8" hole saw and used it on my 1st prototype CP
Newbie Question: so the flush trimming bit "slides" along the 1 1/8" hole in the wood?
I am new to routers - I used it to cut my speaker grill slots and round some edges, but not to do this template stuff :)
Yes. see. picture. In your case, the top wood is your plexi.
(http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/uploadedImages/Fine_Woodworking_Network/Image_Resources/Web_Only/99928057_04_md.jpg)
-
thanks for the clarification