Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: AtomSmasher on August 10, 2007, 03:55:49 pm
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I recently picked up a slikstik cab for free (without a control panel or computer) and the monitor is not working. This is my first arcade monitor, so I am a complete noob when it comes to repairing it and need help or advice.
The problem is when I turn the monitor on, all the comes up is a horizontal line across the screen that changes colors from white, red, blue, and green. I believe the monitor is a WG 27D9200 because I found a replacement parts list for the monitor in the cab, and the guy I got it from has never owned any other cabs, so I figure it must be for this monitor. Any advice is appreciated, attached is a number of pictures to help any diagnosis.
edit* the cab also came with a "15A Switching Power Supply" made by Betson Imperial, and I have no idea what its for, so any advice here would be helpful too?
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a few more pics
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Do you have anything actually connected to the monitor?
The D9200 is plagued with problems.
That power supply is generally for like a JAMMA harness type game.
Do you have a pic of it?
Not sure why there would be one in a SlikStik cabinet though.
Those are pretty much a MAME type setup.
Is there a wiring harness in the cab?
Do you know what game setup was in it last before you got it?
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Do you have anything actually connected to the monitor?
The D9200 is plagued with problems.
That power supply is generally for like a JAMMA harness type game.
Do you have a pic of it?
Not sure why there would be one in a SlikStik cabinet though.
Those are pretty much a MAME type setup.
Is there a wiring harness in the cab?
Do you know what game setup was in it last before you got it?
Theres nothing connected to the monitor, but I thought that a "no signal available" sign comes up nothing is connected and that I would still have access to the OSD controls. I suppose I should try hooking up a pc to it setup with the soft-15khz software. I would of tried earlier, but I didn't want to bother with the hassle unless I thought it would work. I'll go ahead and try it tommorrow though.
I can take a pic of the power supply tommorrow and upload it, but it's possible its from his Ms. Pacman machine. Its a fairly new box and the PS in it looks pretty old and beat up, so most likely he replaced the one on his ms pacman, stuck the old on in the box and then put the box in this cab for storage. Does that sound plausible? The previous setup in this cab was just a Mame setup, with a computer and the standard slikstik controls.
edit* just saw this thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64564.0
I guess theres a good chance I'm SOL. At least I got it for free so I didn't lose any money on it ;D
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You're probably right about the "no signal" screen and OSD menu.
I tend to forget about all that on the newer monitors, especially the multi-syncs models.
It probably has a vertical collapse issue then.
The color changes you see could be the "no signal" text changing colors.
I'd hook a pc up to it anyway and see if you can notice any graphics and such on that thin line, then at least you can narrow down the problem.
It's fixable, that's for certain.
Just depends on how much you want to mess with it.
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okay thanks, I'll hook a pc up to it later today
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I just plugged my monitor into it, although I'm not sure if I had the soft-15 working correctly. When I plugged it in the line changed to a sold blue color and I noticed some white lines in the middle of the blue line. It looked like the white lines were actually words, but the only parts of the words I could see was in the thickness of the line. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the lines matched up to the words "Out of Range" (which is why I think I didn't configured soft-15 correctly).
After unplugging the computer, I noticed some similar white lines in the previous mentioned line that changes color. These lines matched up to the words "No Signal". It seems it is just displaying a small fraction of the screen, very odd. Any ideas on some tests I should run or easy things to try that might fix it?
Also, attached is a picture of the previously mentioned power supply and the box it is in.
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okay thanks, I'll hook a pc up to it later today
That color cycling bar is the "no signal" box cycling colors (normal) and you have vertical collapse. This is very fixable and you could probably fix it yourself if you know a little about monitors, or Chad Entringer at arcadecup.com will fix it for around $100. Well worth it for this monitor IMO, and I know he has fixed them before. Tell him I sent ya! He's repaired a lot of chassis for me in the past and will probably be getting another couple before long.
TTYL,
Wade
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okay thanks, I'll hook a pc up to it later today
That color cycling bar is the "no signal" box cycling colors (normal) and you have vertical collapse. This is very fixable and you could probably fix it yourself if you know a little about monitors, or Chad Entringer at arcadecup.com will fix it for around $100. Well worth it for this monitor IMO, and I know he has fixed them before. Tell him I sent ya! He's repaired a lot of chassis for me in the past and will probably be getting another couple before long.
TTYL,
Wade
Good to know, I'll try to find a local place to get it repaired because it would probably cost an extra $100 to pay to ship it to and from WI. I might try fixing it myself, but I don't know anything about monitors and would need to find a pretty detailed guide on how to do it.
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The monitor also came with this info sheet. Is a vertical collapse the same as no vertical scan? If so, then it looks like theres 3 capacitors I would need to replace.
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okay thanks, I'll hook a pc up to it later today
That color cycling bar is the "no signal" box cycling colors (normal) and you have vertical collapse. This is very fixable and you could probably fix it yourself if you know a little about monitors, or Chad Entringer at arcadecup.com will fix it for around $100. Well worth it for this monitor IMO, and I know he has fixed them before. Tell him I sent ya! He's repaired a lot of chassis for me in the past and will probably be getting another couple before long.
TTYL,
Wade
Good to know, I'll try to find a local place to get it repaired because it would probably cost an extra $100 to pay to ship it to and from WI. I might try fixing it myself, but I don't know anything about monitors and would need to find a pretty detailed guide on how to do it.
You only ship the boards to Chad, not the whole monitor. About $10 shipping. I haven't had any luck with local shops, but it's worth a try if you don't mind it. IMO, it's better to just pull the chassis and send it to someone you know will be able to fix it (read: Chad).
TTYL!
Wade
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Is a vertical collapse the same as no vertical scan? If so, then it looks like theres 3 capacitors I would need to replace.
Yes, that's the same problem.
But those aren't capacitors that it listed.
IC403 is a chip.
R312 and R314 are resistors.
I also give props to Chad if you decide to go that route and have someone else fix it.
The D9200 was a problem child monitor the day it came off the assembly line.
Fixable flaws in design..... but only with the right attention given to it.
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Ah, ok, good to know, in that case I probably will get Chad to fix it. Unfortunately I'm a little short on cash at the moment, but at least now I know where to get it fixed and roughly how much it'll cost. Thanks for the info everyone.