Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: hellothere123 on August 09, 2007, 08:01:29 pm
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I understand that to make an original cabinet, you should use MDF board.
But I wanted to know if anyone else is using cheaper board, and what their experience is.
My feeling is MDF is perfect board, but I have tons of scrap wood at my dad's farm, and I'm thining of using this wood which is strong and stable wood, just not MDF.
I don't think I'll run into stability problems...but that is why I'm asking...
let me know
Thansk!
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Plywood? No problem.
Something else? Could you be more specific?
psychotech
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If it's like 3/4" or 5/8" plywood, it'll be fine. Many cabs were plywood. If its that big, rought particle board, I'd suggest not using it. You'll spend more trying to make it look decent than new materials would cost.
PS: MDF is really cheap where I'm at. Cheaper than the nice ply!
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I used sanded plywood in mine. It is a heck of a lot more lighter and cheaper and just as strong.
I used MDF on one panel and it sucked up three times the paint. Plus if it does get wet it loses its strength.
As much as I love MDF, I was happy I went with the pre sanded plywood.
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Cheaper than MDF? Maybe some thick corrugated cardboard? :dunno
I've tried to use cheaper/rougher wood and I ended up spending so much time trying to make it smooth that any potential savings was lost 10 times over. Sandyply is great.
Once you spend the money, and you enjoy your cabinet - you'll be glad you didn't cut corners on something as important as the wood.
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I used plywood, 3/4" BIRCH
mainly because I HAD this image of MDF as "breaks apart easily" and "like IKEA furniture" ... for SOME reason ...
I also first wanted to have "wood grain" on my cab (now decided to paint it instead and don't really need the grain anyway).
I am sure MDF is FINE and actually great to build cabs and CPs.
I just didn't go for it when planning my first cab.
Weight-wise, I don't know the difference - the birch plywood I use is HEAVY already. I haven't compared with MDF.
I paid about $35 per 4'x8' panel ... I bought 3 panels to build my cab and I have 1/2 of one left which I keep to cut replacement pieces if needed.
I used 2x4 (really 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - a standard here in the US) to build a frame inside the cab. STURDY!
My project thread:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68794.0
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1281/1035755270_ad55efc6ba.jpg)
I believe that most original / old cabs were built using particle boards - I haven't checked in person - THAT is cheap as heck
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I understand that to make an original cabinet, you should use MDF board.
But I wanted to know if anyone else is using cheaper board, and what their experience is.
You don't really get cheaper than MDF unless you want particle board which you won't be able to paint. If you have access to scrap plywood of different types, use them. After applying the base and a few layers of paint, noone will know what wood you use.
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Good point about sanding ... You may go CRAZY trying to make old scrap wood smooth ... For less than $100 (and that's for QUALITY plywood) you'll have more than enough to build a big cab, and it will be pretty much as smooth as a mirror after 1 session of hand sanding with 220 grit paper. Finally, you won't have to "piece together" panels (generally scrap wood/panels are smaller than what you'd need height-wise especially).
Good luck!
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If you plan on laminating the cab, you could use sheathing ply for all anyone will know. But if not, and as others have stated already, you'll spend many more times the cost of good materials in your time trying to make it look decent.
MDF doesn't really "suck up the paint" any more than raw plywood does. But, you need to use the right stuff as a base coat. KILZ primer works awesome for sealing MDF. If you want to throw a second coat on, virtually none of your finish coats of enamel will make through to the board underneath and your finish can be incredibly smooth if you do a light sand afterward. But using MDF requires proper building techniques developed with that material in mind. Plywood is much more forgiving on that front.
Commercial arcade machines used a number of materials. They were costs conscious as businesses tend to be, so they often used good plywood where strength was required and some pretty nasty particle board-like material to fill in where it didn't matter so much. Some later cabs went to mostly particle board construction to save money, but exposure to any amount of water with manufactured wood products is usually disastrous.
The material you don't see used very often is actually the best stuff for the job. But it's expensive. It 's called MDO (Medium Density Overlay) Plywood. If cost is no object, this is the stuff to use. It marries the best properties of MDF (super smooth, grain-free surface) and plywood (lighter-weight and better strength).
In the end, you are the one that will have to build it, look at it everyday and use it. So what you decide is good enough for your purposes will be good enough. But if it's really bad and you don't want to hear that sentiment from others, it's probably best not to post a bunch of pictures of it on the Internet when you are done :).
RandyT
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Great info here RandyT
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MDF is great (but heavy). I put an automotive finish on my last cab and it looks amazing. I sealed it, painted it, lacquered it, sanded the hell out of it, polished it and waxed it - probably about 30-35 coats of everything (sanding in between) spread out over 2 weekends working 8-10 hours each day. Fun times - totally worth it though. People keep asking me where I bought the thick plastic I made the sides out of.... I just laugh.
Plywood is also great - I was able to stain one of my cabs made out of birch a nice dark blue - the grain patterns look great. In the end, the choice is up to you and as long as you take the time and have the patience you can make a nice looking cab - it doesn't hurt to use good materials though.
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MDF is great (but heavy). I put an automotive finish on my last cab and it looks amazing. I sealed it, painted it, lacquered it, sanded the hell out of it, polished it and waxed it - probably about 30-35 coats of everything (sanding in between) spread out over 2 weekends working 8-10 hours each day. Fun times - totally worth it though. People keep asking me where I bought the thick plastic I made the sides out of.... I just laugh.
BTW, it is a crime that you aren't making a custom CPO for that cabinet.
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Can you get away with 1/2" cheap plywood for an upright as long as you build a 2x4 frame underneath?
EDIT: Looks like t-molding.com and t-mold.com both offer 1/2" width stuff as a minimum. I wonder how a 1/2" cab would look.
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Can you get away with 1/2" cheap plywood for an upright as long as you build a 2x4 frame underneath?
EDIT: Looks like t-molding.com and t-mold.com both offer 1/2" width stuff as a minimum. I wonder how a 1/2" cab would look.
I wonder how the slot would get cut in a 1/2" thick piece of wood... I mean it must be doable but I'd imagine it leaves about 1/8" on either side once you are done cutting. Anyone have any experience with this?
BTW, it is a crime that you aren't making a custom CPO for that cabinet.
I thought about it but decided the simpler the better. I like the way the action buttons pop and the admin buttons kind of blend in. The marquee is the only place I'll put some crazy art. I mean, the thing is pink with pink t-molding! :cheers:
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Can you get away with 1/2" cheap plywood for an upright as long as you build a 2x4 frame underneath?
EDIT: Looks like t-molding.com and t-mold.com both offer 1/2" width stuff as a minimum. I wonder how a 1/2" cab would look.
I wonder how the slot would get cut in a 1/2" thick piece of wood... I mean it must be doable but I'd imagine it leaves about 1/8" on either side once you are done cutting. Anyone have any experience with this?
BTW, it is a crime that you aren't making a custom CPO for that cabinet.
I thought about it but decided the simpler the better. I like the way the action buttons pop and the admin buttons kind of blend in. The marquee is the only place I'll put some crazy art. I mean, the thing is pink with pink t-molding! :cheers:
I'm using 1/2" MDF on this project: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68683.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68683.0). I wanted the 1/2" because of the scale of the machine. I wouldn't use 1/2" again unless it's a mini-machine. And even then I'd think about it.
The slot takes out 1/16" so there should be 7/16" material left total.
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I bought 1/2" ply for my bartop, then decided against using it for the sides for that reason. Used 3/4" MDF instead. Doesn't look quite as elegant with the beefy sides, but the 1/2 just looked like it'd be a hassle to route.
Edit:Typo
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Slot? For molding? :laugh2:'
Oh, ...