Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: GameOver on August 04, 2007, 06:03:12 pm
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I'm re-doing my CP to 'fix' some things. One thing I've changed is this time around I'd like to flush mount my trackball. When I apply the CPO to the new CP, do I need to do anything special to the trackball mount part that is recessed to make sure the CPO will stick to it? Sand it, paint it, put adhesive on it?
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I did not do anything special to my trackball mounting plate and have not had any problems with my CPO.
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Are you using plexi over the CPO or is the CPO adhesive?
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Thanks HooPZ.
urbecrisch -
No plexi, CPO is adhesive.
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I do not see any auto body filler applied to the trackball mount. The trackball seams will show through the overlay if this is not done. Plus, the pebble grain finish of the mount will also show through.
IMO the trackball mount needs to be countersunk at least +1/16" more than needed so the body putty smooths over not only the mounting plate seams but the uneven mounting plate face as well.
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Have you ever thought about covering your CP with plexi? It's really easy and IMO completes the CP. Also, it makes for easy cleaning ;D
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AUTOBODY FILLER? Really? Are you kidding? Is that because the plate is metal and abf would be required so it would stick to the metal? Wood filler wouldn't work?
urbercrisch - I'll check out covering with plexi. I agree those look very nice and help protect the cpo. I'll look into it.
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Yes, Body putty. Wood putty tends to be harder to use and is harder to sand.
There's no issues with your control panel overlay sticking to the mounting plate, wood, body filler, wood putty. The real issue is you want to have a smooth finish so there's no evidence of a trackball mounting plate. If you did not cover the plate with anything all of the plates imperfections would be quite obvious through the overlay.
I have completed a DIY tutorial w/pics on this subject. I will e-mail it to you tonight after I get home from the day job.
Jack
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I just finished converting a Robotron panel that had been badly converted to a Kid Nikky Panel and had been something else in between. I filled all the holes with a bondo clone called Formula 27 and it worked amazingly. I was able to sand things down to where it was like a brand new panel then drill holes that were partly thru wood and partly thru bondo without a hitch. The stuff seemed to sand and drill just like wood (But boy did it stink :P )
Mike
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I have completed a DIY tutorial w/pics on this subject. I will e-mail it to you tonight after I get home from the day job.
Jack
Do have a link to the DIY? Or can you post it here? Thanks.
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I do not see any auto body filler applied to the trackball mount. The trackball seams will show through the overlay if this is not done. Plus, the pebble grain finish of the mount will also show through.
IMO the trackball mount needs to be countersunk at least +1/16" more than needed so the body putty smooths over not only the mounting plate seams but the uneven mounting plate face as well.
Does this need to be done if you use a non-adhesive cpo and plexi? Will the plate show through?
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I do not see any auto body filler applied to the trackball mount. The trackball seams will show through the overlay if this is not done. Plus, the pebble grain finish of the mount will also show through.
IMO the trackball mount needs to be countersunk at least +1/16" more than needed so the body putty smooths over not only the mounting plate seams but the uneven mounting plate face as well.
Does this need to be done if you use a non-adhesive cpo and plexi? Will the plate show through?
No. I have a CP with a non-adhesive cpo and a Lexan top. One of my first router jobs was the recess for the trackball plate, and it shows, the lines are not straight, but the depth is uniform. I fastened the trackball and plate to the wood CP. The overlay was placed on top and the Lexan is secured only with the nuts from the pushbuttons. You cannot see either my lousy routing job, or the trackball plate. You can however, see that I haven't gotten around to t-molding and the bad job I did routing the right side of my trackball opening. I think once the Lexan gets scratched up I'll replace it with some Plexi.
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sweet thanks
My routing job was freehand... so a little worse than yours...
I guess I can always fill it if it shows later
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ok gonna try to knock this out today, I'm tired of looking at this unfinished mini-project! I have a small container of drywall spackle, think that will work? Figured since I've got some I'd use it if it'll work instead of paying for more materials if not necessary. Whaddaya think? Spackle? Or should I go for the bondo/auto body filler/formula 27 stuff?
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TA-DA! Thar she blows...flush mount and all!
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very nice! I want to do the same :)
any advice to give, beside what's already posted above in this thread?
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Wow! It does look nice. Did you decide to use the spackle to fill in the gaps? Did you smooth it over the mount or just fill in around the edges?
Again, looks really nice. You should be proud!!
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Thanks! I did buy some auto body filler (bondo) but decided not to use it. I did not put any type of 'filler' over my trackball mounting plate. You can't tell atm, but I'm wondering if over time it will show. But for now it's smooth as a baby's bottom! I think the heavy duty CPO has a lot to do with that, it hides any bumps like on the trackball mounting plate. I'm sure the right thing to do is to use some type of filler I just didn't have the patience for it this weekend.
Other advice? YES! MAKE SURE THE MOUINTING HOLE FOR YOUR TRACKBALL IS BIG ENOUGH BEFORE PUTTING EVERYTHING TOGETHER! :D I had to come back with a router after everything was put together to get my t-ball casing to fit...I thought it did when I first made the cut but I ddin't push it all the way in...and well there were two little 'lips' on either end that I needed to make an adjustment for. doh!
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From this one picture it looks like this cab turned out really nice! post some more pictures.
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From this one picture it looks like this cab turned out really nice! post some more pictures.
Hey thanks tophatne1! But...I only re-did my CP, I already had built the cab. I had bought replacement art (marquee, bezel, side art and CPO) and the last piece was the CP. I wanted to change a couple things on my CP so I saved that for last. Click on the earth (web link) under my avatar to see my cab, but those pics are BEFORE I swapped the art. I'll put some new pics up soon, and thanks for the compliment!
edit: added pic to show full art, props to mamemarquees.com! t-molding not finished! :)
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Wow. I think you took a chance with that color scheme and won big. Great job! Rally X is a great game.... :applaud: