Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: kenpachi on July 25, 2007, 04:53:58 am
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Hey everyone,
I've been lurking on this site for months and finally decided to dive in and start my first cabinet. Guys like Kinevel really inspired me to get started.
There's so much information here and it's hard to find answers to specific questions so I thought I'd just jump in and learn as I go.
I figured Lusid's design would be a good one to start with.
I'll have lots of questions and if you're a just starting too, you can learn from my mistakes!
My plan so far:
Lusid's Design
Blue T-Molding
27" TV Monitor
2 Player CP
I'm just making decisions as I go along. Hopefully I can get some help and feedback :applaud:
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Here's a picture of progress so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10541137@N08/893193181/
So why is there this gap designed in the back?
Note: the "cabinet back top" isn't attached yet.
Why not just put a huge slab to cover the entire back?
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Mistake #46
I searched for hours and couldn't figure out exactly where the T-molding would go around, and how it would meet up with the control panel.
I thought my problem solving would be better than my internet searching ability.
Lesson learned, don't route the slot this far.
And...I routed the bottom of the cabinet side too. I'm not sure if that's a good idea, but damn that router is fun to use ;D
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10541137@N08/893193197/in/photostream/
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I think the opening in the back of that cab was for heat and accessability. You could always cut another piece and attach it with some hinges to fill the hole if you don't like it. I wouldn't be too worried about the extra t-molding slot...it shouldn't interfere with anything.
Jouster
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Ya, if that's the mistakes that are worrying you so far, you're doing just fine. Keep up the good work!
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Here's a picture of progress so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10541137@N08/893193181/
So why is there this gap designed in the back?
Note: the "cabinet back top" isn't attached yet.
Why not just put a huge slab to cover the entire back?
Here is a quote from his site:
"I took all these measurements and started plotting out cabinet profiles in scale on graph paper. I decided to make the entire front of the cabinet (where the coin door goes) a big door to access the interior. I also decided to use a wireless keyboard so I wouldn't have to have a keyboard drawer. I also left the back partially open hoping to avoid the need for a loud ventilation fan. For the drawings, I used custom graph paper printed with a great little utility I found online. I used it to make graph paper representing 4' X 8' sheets so I could get an idea of how much of the cutting I could have done at home depot, and how many sheets of wood I would need. When I was satisfied with the shape of the cabinet, I built a miniature scale model out of cardboard."
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Looking good!
FYI
you can display / embed flickr photos right into this page
Do it on flickr's "medium size" version of your pics (roughly 500 px on the longer side)
Just add [ IMG ] and [ / IMG ] around your image link (remove the spaces)
Regarding the 27" TV, make sure you plan enough space for it - not only these are wide, but they are also usually DEEP oh, and HEAVY of course.
Good luck with your projet!!
Lookinbg forward to see the progress on this :applaud:
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I built my first cab on Lusid design and increased the piece size on the back to be complete with lock.
I added a soffit vents in the rear angled top and bottom quarter panel of the back without any internal fans.
I never had any issue with overheating.....this cab was later gifted to my nephews and it sees alot of action.
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WHOA! Thanks for the response everyone.
I decided to make a solid back piece. Waste of time and money, but that's how you learn right?
So here's my next dilemma:
I'm wanting to mount the TV shelf. I have 2 options:
RED Option 1) Mount the shelf parallel to the ground as described in The Book. Figure out a way to tilt the TV after.
BLUE Option 2) Mount the shelf at the viewing angle, perpendicular to the sloped edge of the cabinet side. I'd mount it lower than the blue line of course.
I hope these pictures make sense to everyone.
What would YOU do?
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1422/909371210_b87a940d15_m.jpg)
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1424/909371194_e69abb7b16.jpg)
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Why not just wrap the T-Molding around 360? I put a lot of time and thought into it and decided to T-mold under the CP. Why not? It will just protect the edges under the CP that much more. Trust me I don't even notice the T-molding is there. Neither does anyone else. Your cab is looking great!
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Marlborroman:
How did you mount the CP to the Cab with the T-mold all the way around?
Did you use latches or something neato?
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(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1053/913204576_a89421560f.jpg)
I started sticking each piece to the cab sides as described in The Book. I personally found that it wasn't a totally precise method: I like to make sure everything is REALLY level cause I'm a bit of a perfectionist.
So here's my method:
1) hot glue gun the mounting strips,
2) then use paper shims to adjust everything until it's level
3) attach with screws.
I thought I'd just attach the mounting strips or L-Brackets afterwards for stability, but everything seems to be holding up fine. The mounting strips peel off cleanly afterwards.
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(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1120/913204346_3eb96d4508.jpg)
Everything is fitting into place. I'm thinking of sandwiching a printout on vellum between 2 pieces of plexiglass for the marquee.
I read someone's suggestion from Ragged Edge's project and I trimmed the edge of the speaker shelf so the marquee will sit flush with the cabinet top.
I'm trying to dream up some way to mount the marquee and stick my florescent tube in there now....any ideas?
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(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1418/912536805_ef5be52176.jpg)
I cut out the speaker holes with a jigsaw and filed it down to size.
I'm using an older set of Creative Inspire 2.1 speakers that have a sort of lip around the front edge so they mount nicely.
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I read someone's suggestion from Ragged Edge's project and I trimmed the edge of the speaker shelf so the marquee will sit flush with the cabinet top.
I'm at about the same spot as you right now ( I will post the annoucement shortly) and I was wodering how the marquee would work with the speaker shelf at an angle. I didn't think about trimming the edge to make it even.
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Heres a picture that might help. If you get the right marquee retainer, it should work fine.
(http://gallery.xmenxmen.com/albums/The-Arrival/Arcade_Machine_Free_Original_DSCN0200.jpg)
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kenpachi,
Here is my responce to your PM with pic..
My control panel is clamped down with the Happ panel clips as in Saint's book However, I modified the plans a little as I wanted my CP box to be rock solid.. Nothing worse than a CP box that's moving all around on you during a heated match of KI!
I started by adding a single 2x4 about an 1/2 inch lower than the bottom of the CP box and attached it to the back side of the the coin door frame. This will help reinforce the side panels from stress.
Next place your CP box on the cab and center it. Now, mark where you are going to place the 1 & 1.5" supports to the bottom of the box. They should butt against the bottom of the CP box, the sides of the cab, and the front additional 2x4. Then drill two holes (per side) into the bottom of the box to attach two 1.5x1.5's using cam bolts / washers and nuts. (Don't use drywall or wood screws as you don't want them to work loose). Now fasten the 1.5's with the bolts/washers and nuts. Last attach the panel clamps to the cab's sides (MDF) and the bottom of the 1.5's...
Now the box can't shift to the sides (1.5"s are butted to the cab's sides) and it can't shift forward (1.5"s are butted to the 2x4) and last it can't be pulled off because of the panel clamps! It really was simple and the box is solid.
For the T-Molding start the molding at edge were the back corner of the CP box sits and work your way up the cab. End at where you started.
I know that's a lot to take in, but if you look at the picture it's worth a thousand words. You can even see where the T-molding starts and finishes.