Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: OnigumO on April 25, 2003, 06:42:40 am
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I want to get the Super Joysticks from Happs but I've read some posts saying that if I were to use these in 3/4" thick wood, I would have to Countersink. Do you really have to countersink? What are the results if you dont? From pictures of the HotRod SE, It uses 3/4" wood and the Super Joystick without any countersinking. So is countersinking really necessary? Thank you for your time
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A router is used to remove the wood underneath the CP on the HotRod joystick. Mine has about 1/3 of an inch removed where the joysticks mount. If you did not do it the sticks would be awfully short.
BobA
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What type of bit do you use on the router to countersink?
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I want to get the Super Joysticks from Happs but I've read some posts saying that if I were to use these in 3/4" thick wood, I would have to Countersink. Do you really have to countersink? What are the results if you dont? From pictures of the HotRod SE, It uses 3/4" wood and the Super Joystick without any countersinking. So is countersinking really necessary? Thank you for your time
BobA is correct, the sticks will be pretty short in a 3/4" control panel if you don't recess them. The HotRod does have the joysticks recessed, see http://www.oscarcontrols.com/customize_hotrod.shtml, or specifically http://www.oscarcontrols.com/hotrod/extraholes3.jpg
Most people seem to recess the Happ sticks about 1/4" into a 3/4" control panel, but I go with 3/8" because I like the extra 1/8" hieght.
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A straight bit works fine. I don't think countersink is the right term when you are removing wood but I cannot think of the proper woodworking term.
BobA
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Yes, the hotrod does have some wood cut out to make the joy the right height as I have one. On my newer control panels, though, I didn't bother doing countersinking the joys in the 3/4 MDF. Yes, the joystics are shorter, but IMO I don't think it makes too much of a differene anyway. I loved arcade games back in the day, but I don't remember them THAT well as to recall how tall the joystick was. So making them perfectly "arcade authentic" was near impossible for me anyway. Even if you don't "countersink" your joystick, you'll still be able to play whatever you want. However, You may want to make your joystick hole slightly larger than your button hole so the joystick isn't restricted by the wood.
wee beastie
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FWIW, I didn't route out on mine and i'm OK with my "shaft length" ( ha!)
*shrug* it's really a personal preference... If you were going to have lexan on top of the 3/4" wood... I'd think you'd get into definite routing territory...
Go to an arcade and play around and see how high up you like your stick mounted...
rampy
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A straight bit works fine. I don't think countersink is the right term when you are removing wood but I cannot think of the proper woodworking term.
I believe it would be called a "pocket". If there was a higher area within a pocket, it would be an "island".
A "recess" would probably also describe it pretty well.
If anyone cares :).
RandyT
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I also did not recess the CP for my joysticks. I'm using 3/4" MDF with 1/8" Lucite on top and the stick height doesn't bother me at all. I was going to route out a recess for the joysticks but my other half said that she prefered the sticks the way they were so i left 'em. Unless you're using restrictor plates, it's pretty much personal preference.
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If I were to make a recess, what type of router bit would you use?
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Why not just se 1/2" MDF on your control panel? I think buttons in general will also still attach to a 1/2" panel.
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i recessed mine 1/4, using a straight cutting bit... it was much easier than i expected (not much of a woodworker you see). but a rounter wips through mdf real easy...but man the mess, turns mdf into a nice fine talc that gets in everything
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ALWAYS wear appropriate dust masks when working with wood, particleboard, or MDF like this. You really don't want any of this stuff in your lungs.
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Why not just se 1/2" MDF on your control panel? I think buttons in general will also still attach to a 1/2" panel.
My only comment would be that you have more tmolding options with 3/4".