Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: DerrickRe on March 18, 2002, 10:22:38 pm
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It may take me some time to set up a decent page for my cabinet, so here are some links of the videos I took. (Approx 3M each)
http://www.geocities.com/yardape8000/index.html
The first shows how easy it is to remove the control panel. I use that 3M fastener (plastic velcro wannabe) to hold the 3/16" metal panels in place. Though the weight does most of the work.
The next video shows the monitor rotating. I use ropes, a lazy-suzan on the back and a fridge caster supporting the front. I pulled it slowly for this video. Notice the colours change as it rotates. This is the earths magnshows the monitoretic field affecting the CRTs purity. It needs to be degaussed when it reaches it's final resting place. This is done automatically by a 8-pin microchip I programmed and patched into the monitor's degauss circuit. (Only recommended for certified tech's which I happen to be)
And heres the whole cabinet.
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/Image1.jpg)
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Of course, the presence of the earth's magnshows monitoretic field was first demonstrated in 1880 by Sir Edmund Magnshow.
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Cool cab - what did you use for the black finish on the sides and bottom panel?
Also lurv the track ball add on - nice touch! ;D
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Of course, the presence of the earth's magnshows monitoretic field was first demonstrated in 1880 by Sir Edmund Magnshow.
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Cool cab - what did you use for the black finish on the sides and bottom panel?
Also lurv the track ball add on - nice touch! ;D
Thanx...
The cabinet is made from 3/4" Duramine (Another brand of Melamine).
Make sure to use a quality 80 tooth blade on the table saw. A 60 tooth blade is not good enough for a top quality cut. Also for the T-molding, you should splurge for the proper router bit. 5/64" or 0.075" slotting cutter. I got mine from the local Factory Supply store.
The metal control panel is just painted 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of Krylon paint. Very fast drying. The plastic bezels are painted painted on the inside cabinet part with just the 3 coats of Krylon. I would not recomend any other paint. You can not screw up with this spray paint.
The only problem with the metal panel is it tends to be a little cold. So I will order some black vinyl from Happs. Maybe this will make it feel less cold.
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BTW, is that a removable side panel for the trackball? I was thinking of making side extensions for player 3&4 that could bolt on with thumbscrews when guests come over... Would be interested in how you went about it.
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Though I prefer a little more color, very nice cabinet. Especially since you custom built the whole thing. Congrats on a job well done.
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the cup holders rule!! nice touch! ;D
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Ok, what the heck is Duramine, is it a plastic, a plywood or a composite, and where do you get it? Does it come colored? :)
How did you work the metal for the control panel? (Can this be done using power tools or does it require large machinery like mills and presses)
VERY nice cabinet by the way. My designs are suprisingly similar, though I havn't built it yet.
I am planning on hooking a motor with a rubberied wheel against the front disc of my monitor and a pair of limit switches to halt it when it is in position. Do you have the diagram for your degaussing circuit yet? That would perfect my plan :)
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Ok, what the heck is Duramine, is it a plastic, a plywood or a composite, and where do you get it?
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BTW, is that a removable side panel for the trackball?
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Ahh, thanks for the info.
I assume you got the PIC as a kit with an interface board for a PC that you programmed it through. I've seen similar setups with Motorola chips at the EE labs when I was in school. I think I'll be using a couple of relays and a timer though instead, but I like the error-proofing routines in the file (the whole fire degauss when moving from V-H or H-V but not H-H or V-V. Programming the delay to make sure the switch was closed for a half second was a nice touch as well.)
I went out to the store to take a look at some Duramine and or Melamine. I don't know. I now know what you mean, but I also have had bad experience with that stuff rotting on me, especially in the basement (where my cabinet will be). I'm probably going to stick with my original plan and use 3/4" treated plywood for the sidewalls and 1/2" for the rest.
Thanks to you, I also now know the router bit I need for T-Molding :)
Oh, another thing, what gage steel in the control panel?
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I assume you got the PIC as a kit with an interface board for a PC that you programmed it through.
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:) Your rotation-spool looks really cool, I hope you can add some more detail-photos of that? Especially I wonder where and how the motor is connected with it?
I really had a hard time to find out what a lazy-Susan is (well, I'm from Germany and I don't even know how we would name this things, but yes, my mothers kitchen has one build in, too ;)) I still don't know exactly what a fridge coaster is supposed to do, although I'm clear of what a coaster is (and this makes sense to me), but what on earth has it to do with a fridge :-[
Thanx to Frobozz, I'll buy a industry-style monitor (WellsGardner U3100) if the shippment-costs won't kill me, so it shouldn't be to hard to fix it in this construction.
By the way, cool videos! I'll get a SCSI1-cable ripped, its a really nice type of connection - very smoothly to take apart and stable.
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You might want to think twice about using pressure treated wood. Most pressure treated wood is treated with arsenic and famaldahyde (sp?). These are not good things to have in a house.
If you use regular plywood, get it a bit off the floor (wheels), and paint all surfaces well you shouldn't have a rot problem. It won't be toxic to yourself (and family.)
Also do not cut pressure treated wood indoors and/or without mask since these things are many times more toxic when cut. That's why most home improvement stores will not cut the stuff for you.
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:) Your rotation-spool looks really cool, I hope you can add some more detail-photos of that? Especially I wonder where and how the motor is connected with it?
I really had a hard time to find out what a lazy-Susan is (well, I'm from Germany and I don't even know how we would name this things, but yes, my mothers kitchen has one build in, too ;)) I still don't know exactly what a fridge coaster is supposed to do, although I'm clear of what a coaster is (and this makes sense to me), but what on earth has it to do with a fridge :-[
Actually it is a Caster (wheel) not Coaster.
This is a view from the back. The monitor front sits on the fridge caster (used because of the double wheel). The back sits on the 2 side wood supports and bolts in with the 2 nut inserts in either side. The stationary part of the monitor spool has slots in it so the monitor can be moved forward or backward.
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/MonOpening1.jpg)
Here is the front view showing the spool sitting on the fridge caster. (Check out the bottom of your refrigerator , it uses the same wheels.)
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/MonMount1.jpg)
Because the monitor is tilted back 15 degrees, you need to cut the front of the spool on an angle as shown below. Cut the Circle to size. Put it on a table saw with the blade set 15 degrees off vertical. Set the guide rail 1/4" inch bigger then the circle. Rotate the circle against the guide slowly cutting an angle with the blade. Keep moving the guide in and rotating the circle until you have a circle with a 15 degree angle on it.
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/RotMon2.jpg)
This is the front without the bezel.
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/MonFront1.jpg)
This is the side view of the spool. Showing the ropes used to rotate it. (I will remove the ropes and motorize it in the future.) The ropes go through the top of the cabinet with knots at the limits to stop the ropes from falling back in.
The back 3 boards are cut open in the center to allow the Kine Circuit Board and CRT Gun to go all the way back to the Lazy Susan. This allows it to save the 2.25" total of the 3 boards. Otherwise the whole assembly would be bigger making the cabinet 2.25" deeper.
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/MonSide.jpg)
And here is the back with the monitor spool installed.
(http://www3.sympatico.ca/derrickre/CabBack1.jpg)
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:)Thanx, now I understand the whole construction, and also the trick with the rope. Good idea, may save some work to let the motor out!
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:)Thanx, now I understand the whole construction, and also the trick with the rope. Good idea, may save some work to let the motor out!
I left the motor out myself, because it was too much work. The rope idea was mentioned by someone in a previous post, and I thought it was a quick way to get the cabinet up and running.
But when the weather gets warmer, I plan on going to the auto wreckers and looking at various Electric Window Mechanisms. They might be of some use, and are small enough to fit in a car door, so they should fit in a cabinet fine.
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Here are a couple of other shots.