Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: shmokes on April 17, 2003, 08:45:03 pm
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I just got my t-molding today and have a question. I've heard people say to cut off the stem of the T (the part that goes into the slot) where the molding goes around corners. Is this true for all bends, like the ones transitioning between the base and monitor, or just the 90 degree ones at the top and bottom?
Also (this is where I need theories as I doubt anyone else has here has used this stuff) my t-molding is solid metal. It's not like the chrome stuff from t-molding.com that essentially has a chrome laminate over the top of rubber/plastic t-molding. This makes it MUCH less maleable than most t-molding. What is the best way of making corners without causing a crease in it? I was thinking of slowly going around the bend with a mallet, but I'd love some ideas. This stuff was over $2 per foot. Yikes!
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with the plastic t-molding id cut a little V out of the t-molding stem for real sharp corners. for not so sharp corners id leave the stem on and it'd insert ok. i used a rubber mallet to install the t-molding. it sounds like that would be a good method for the metal stuff. maybe try it on a scrap piece of cornered wood with a small piece of the metal t-molding.
-pocketz
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lemme tell ya. I bought a cocktail cabinet kit for my wife so that I cold save some time. let me tell ya what a mistake. the t molding slot friggin is to big so the shizzy fall sout. I had to use elmers wood glue to keep it in. this pisses me off to no end. On our other machine I used a rubber coated plier handle to run down the t molding and press it in and it came out even. the rubber mallet would work but im not sure how event hat would be.
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Were you using the right size slot bit for routering the wood....or was it pre routered?
Anyway, I don't think the plier handle would work for my situation. Holding this stuff in my hands I could not bend it 30 degrees without putting a crease in it -- and even then I'd have to use some muscle. Like I say, the whole thing is solid metal, including the part that goes into the slot.
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sounds like you might need to return that metal stuff and get the plastic type t-molding. :-\
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Try a heat gun? Maybe contact the manufacturer and see if they recommend a procedure.
-Ace-
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You'll need to remove the "t" part in order for the facing to bend smoothly. Also you'll probably get better results using gentler pressure a little farther down than directly where you want it to bend.
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Returning it isn't really an option. I think I'll have a bit extra so I'll do some experimenting. It was so bloody expensive that I HAVE to make it work.
I'll shoot an email off to the manufacturers as was suggested. It really is very nice-looking t-molding so if I can make it work well it will be worth it.
When you say heat gun do you mean one of those things that one strips paint with? Do you think that would heat up solid aluminum enough to make a difference? If so it'll be worth the price. I can't afford for to throw this stuff out.
Any other ideas? I figure a blow torch would discolor/ruin the finish of the metal, though I'm sure I could make it pretty maleable with one.
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I second aj6500's advice. Remove the leg completely to make any kind of bend with it. When you try to bend this solid T-molding, you are putting the leg into either tension or compression, and that is what is causing it to crease the upper surface. The length of the leg you need to remove will be determined by the radius and degree of bend you are making.
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What's best to remove it? Tin-snips? Or is there some tool (within reason, I don't have a shop) that would give me a more flush cut?
Thanks for the advice by the way.
And thanks in advance for the Tron spinner ;D
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I would think the best way to remove the leg on the aluminum would be a Dremel with a small cut-off wheel. Hopefully you have access to a Dremel, but if not, they are a handy tool to invest in. I use mine so much it never gets put away. It has stayed plugged in and sitting on my workbench for the last 3 years. :)
Tin snips would work to make the vertical cuts, but it might be a bit awkward to make the horizontal cut and you would probably just have to bend it back and forth until it broke off. Obviously, that is not going to give you the best cut.
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Hmm...good idea. I have an old dremel tool. I might not have the correct bit, but dremel bits don't seem to be too expensive.
Thanks.
One last question. Every time I use cutting bits on my dremel tool they end up breaking and firing pieces across the room after about 10 seconds -- even if I'm just cutting thick cardboard. Am I using the wrong bits. Am I using the wrong technique? They feel like grinder material. They aren't metal. I've always figured that it was kind of normal as the cutters that attach to the arbor come in little film-size containters with like twenty blades. So is it normal to go through them this fast? The shrapnel doesn't seem too dangerous as long as I've got saftey goggles on.
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Pick up a metal cut-off wheel. The ones I buy are called something like Diamond Wheel Cutter, or something like that. They are smaller diameter than the fiber discs you are using. I don't think you could ever break one of the metal wheels, I haven't. The metal wheels are about $3 for pack of two and fit the same spindle as the fiber discs.
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One last question. Every time I use cutting bits on my remel tool they end up breaking and firing pieces across the room after about 10 seconds -- even if I'm just cutting thick cardboard. Am I using the wrong bits. Am I using the wrong technique? They feel like grinder material. They aren't metal. I've always figured that it was kind of normal as the cutters that attach to the arbor come in little film-size containters with like twenty blades. So is it normal to go through them this fast? The shrapnel doesn't seem too dangerous as long as I've got saftey goggles on.
Don't apply too much pressure. Ease into the cut. The thinner the disc, the slower you have to go. It also depends on how thick the material you're cutting is, and how fast you have your Dremel going.
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I It has stayed plugged in and sitting on my workbench for the last 3 years.
By the way, Oscar, I recommend unplugging that while changing bits... ;)
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By the way, Oscar, I recommend unplugging that while changing bits... ;)
I don't see what the point of that is... besides, the Dremel is easier to handle without those two other fingers to get in the way anymore.... ;)
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Some t-moulding manufacturers suggest using a "heat box," placing the t-moulding in a slightly heated environment before handling. I've noticed that the critical handling temperature for t-moulding is not far from room temperature: at around 50 degrees F, t-moulding is a nightmare, at around 70 degrees or so it's not so bad. About using a heat gun: use it if you have it, but a hair dryer may also work too. I have both, when I use the heat gun and hold it in one place too long, it starts too melt and emit a curious sweet smell (not good). I've been looking for a comprehensive manual on how to use this stuff but I never found any information at all so I had too teach myself. I've used several types of scissors, sheet metal shears and 4 different types of razors. (btw don't use the exacto with the screwdriver handle.) Has anyone tried using electrician's scissors with T-moulding yet? it seems perfect, but I don't want to spend money to try it out though.
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I think my T-molding is a hole different beast than what you're talking about. It was shipped in an 8' long box with 8' long strips of T-molding inside because they can't be rolled up like what most of us have used in the past. It couldn't hurt to heat this stuff up, but I'm not sure a hair dryer would make an appreciable difference in this stuff. Like I say it is solid metal. No other materials are used in any part of the T-molding.
I picked up some of those diamond wheel cutter blades Oscar speaks of. They look pretty hefty so hopefully they will be my ticket (and hopefully the t-molding will be able to bend around corners without making ugly creases once I cut the leg off).
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lemme tell ya. I bought a cocktail cabinet kit for my wife so that I cold save some time. let me tell ya what a mistake. the t molding slot friggin is to big so the shizzy fall sout. I had to use elmers wood glue to keep it in. this pisses me off to no end. On our other machine I used a rubber coated plier handle to run down the t molding and press it in and it came out even. the rubber mallet would work but im not sure how event hat would be.
Who's kit?
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Pick up a metal cut-off wheel. The ones I buy are called something like Diamond Wheel Cutter, or something like that. They are smaller diameter than the fiber discs you are using. I don't think you could ever break one of the metal wheels, I haven't. The metal wheels are about $3 for pack of two and fit the same spindle as the fiber discs.
What you really want are THESE (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31501)!
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Pick up a metal cut-off wheel. The ones I buy are called something like Diamond Wheel Cutter, or something like that. They are smaller diameter than the fiber discs you are using. I don't think you could ever break one of the metal wheels, I haven't. The metal wheels are about $3 for pack of two and fit the same spindle as the fiber discs.
What you really want are THESE (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31501)!
Yep, those are the ones I'm talking about. The ones I buy from ACO Hardware come in 2-packs, though.
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Already bought them. They were the only ones my ACE Hardware had (no two-packs). They came with the arbor, though, so it seemed like a pretty reasonable price for five discs + arbor for $10. Thanks for the tip. I sure hope it turns out well.