Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Chris G on May 04, 2007, 01:23:58 pm
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I'm curious how you experts go from CP design-mode to CP build-mode.
I ended up designing in Visio. First I tried printing it out on multiple sheets of letter paper and taping them together. That didn't work very well. Then I found out that my wife has access to a plotter at work, so I was able to take advantage (I'm mean that in a negative way - I feel bad) of that opportunity to print a full-size version. From there, I attached the printout to the wood and simply poked holes through the paper to mark the various control locations.
So for my (inevitable) next cabinet, I'm wondering if there's a better way. I've heard some people take their stuff to Kinkos, which I'd like to avoid. Any other printing solutions? Any other strategies that don't even involve printing?
Thanks,
Chris
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I use a program called CP Sketcher. It allows me to place most basic controls on a rectangle CP. then you can export the measurements from the upper left corner and use them to draw on your full size CP. You can also export a normal or high res bitmap image. Below is a sample CP I created in less than 5 min. The other attachment is the txt file created.
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if you have access to adobe illustrator, i have a procedure that successfully implements the "tape the sheets together" strategy. i haven't used visio in years, but i assume you can export to at least one of the following file types for opening in illustrator: .AI, .PS, .PDF
- in illustrator, under "document setup", choose "tile imageable areas".
- in the tool palette, click and hold the hand tool, then choose the page tool. click in the image to set where the tile boundaries go.
- print to printer "Adobe PDF". this creates a separate PDF file for each page. if you care to, you can reassemble these into one multi-page PDF with Adobe Acrobat.
- print these pages using adobe reader, with "Page Scaling" set to "None" and "Auto Rotate and Center" NOT checked.
- the resulting pages can be simply taped together as-is, with no trimming required, yielding a single large piece of paper with all dimensions correct.
this may sound laborious, but, in practice, it only takes a few minutes and yields great results.
for an example, visit the web page linked in my signature and scroll to the "download" section at the bottom.
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[...]then you can export the measurements from the upper left corner and use them to draw on your full size CP. [...]
The measurements are from the center of the part. Generally, it's where you're going to want to drill for the part (always check first though).
CP Sketcher can be downloaded here:
http://www.tahnokgames.com/Applications/CPSketcher/applications_cpsketcher.htm
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CP Sketcher looks cool, but seems like it might take a while to draw out all the locations from the measurement list. I'll give it a shot, though. If I ever get the cash for Illustrator, I'll give that a try too. Thanks for the feedback, guys.
Chris
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CP Sketcher looks cool, but seems like it might take a while to draw out all the locations from the measurement list. I'll give it a shot, though. If I ever get the cash for Illustrator, I'll give that a try too. Thanks for the feedback, guys.
Chris
I do like you did for your first one. Print out a full sized one on a large piece of paper and use a punch to mark my drill locations. I've also taped my controls on and punched them that way. This works fine if your using a generic CPO graphic.
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pIjpkUX-8gH9I-dsraz2sMzYjgggnf4l_LAgq4Xcdg-o82uqdioI2CKw0iyMhnN5zb1ZGvkFbZgH1AWyRYnEBh-06riYBOSLXK8WrKCzgqFWrymVBZhWfPQ)
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pIjpkUX-8gH9I-dsraz2sMxeQXlFvTfaVplTtfGnbPUTSx7y69ITtCUWQg8JnC1uXAPC0gxg0riYY1bZ5hAy8Ec-6fgTyG0sAqRshI_hRu3Q)
This was on a generic CPO. Here is the result
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pIjpkUX-8gH9I-dsraz2sM3Z_XfUWGorOm5WzKB7YFmI-E0WsJYt6fIYSUTpQ7g39ZsKJ6rP2ENwRhGewPL6IYIVr9Hj8iSWnt8nKlIRkXwQ)
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Nice - looks like that worked out pretty well.
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I just do it the old fashioned way - I measure the center points out on a piece of MDF using a ruler and t-square. Then I just use a 1-1/8" forestner bit to drill out the holes.
I'm thinking of making a template ala Knievel for the next one though because I'm building a traditional MAME upright and I'm actually going to end up building three of them (probably not all at once though).
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I'm curious how you experts go from CP design-mode to CP build-mode.
I ended up designing in Visio. First I tried printing it out on multiple sheets of letter paper and taping them together. That didn't work very well. Then I found out that my wife has access to a plotter at work, so I was able to take advantage (I'm mean that in a negative way - I feel bad) of that opportunity to print a full-size version. From there, I attached the printout to the wood and simply poked holes through the paper to mark the various control locations.
You don't go into much detail about why Visio didn't work, but i did something similar and it worked fairly well. As long as you can create an image (using CP Sketcher or Visio or whatever), you can use your tool of choice (I used GIMP, but you can probably even do it in Visio). Here's the steps I took:
- Determine your printer margin sizes (e.g. 1.0" on sides, .5" on top/bottom).
- Create gridlines on your image the same size as your 'printable area' on the paper. For example with the above dimensions on an 8.5 x 11" paper, the printable area is 6.5 x 10, so the grid lines are 6.5 x 10.
- I then cut and pasted the area inside each grid into it's own document.
- Then I printed each document (no scaling). I used printable gridlines just to make sure I got it right. If the ends of the image are smaller than one page/grid box, you can just create cut lines for that page.
- If everything works, you can cut along the border/gridlines for each document and reassemble and tape it down and it should be a perfect fit.
- From there, you can use an exacto knife to score out the cutting lines, or for screw holes/button holes you can just mark the center and cut after you've removed the guide.
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The Kinkos solution was the easiest for me. For a few bucks they blew up my normal 8.5" X 11" print out to the actual size. I then taped it on the pre cut CP top and CENTER PUNCHED all the holes. Trackball was pretty simple. After tracing the square I just kind of figured out how the big egg shaped cut out would fit, went slowly and enlarged it where I need to test fitting all the way.
All the center punched holes drilled real easy with a forstner bit.
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I just do it the old fashioned way - I measure the center points out on a piece of MDF using a ruler and t-square. Then I just use a 1-1/8" forestner bit to drill out the holes.
I'm thinking of making a template ala Knievel for the next one though because I'm building a traditional MAME upright and I'm actually going to end up building three of them (probably not all at once though).
I like the idea of a template - I may do that too. Although, who knows if I'll want the same layout on my next cab...
You don't go into much detail about why Visio didn't work, but i did something similar and it worked fairly well. As long as you can create an image (using CP Sketcher or Visio or whatever), you can use your tool of choice (I used GIMP, but you can probably even do it in Visio). Here's the steps I took:
- Determine your printer margin sizes (e.g. 1.0" on sides, .5" on top/bottom).
- Create gridlines on your image the same size as your 'printable area' on the paper. For example with the above dimensions on an 8.5 x 11" paper, the printable area is 6.5 x 10, so the grid lines are 6.5 x 10.
- I then cut and pasted the area inside each grid into it's own document.
- Then I printed each document (no scaling). I used printable gridlines just to make sure I got it right. If the ends of the image are smaller than one page/grid box, you can just create cut lines for that page.
- If everything works, you can cut along the border/gridlines for each document and reassemble and tape it down and it should be a perfect fit.
- From there, you can use an exacto knife to score out the cutting lines, or for screw holes/button holes you can just mark the center and cut after you've removed the guide.
The main reason Visio didn't work for me was that I was using 2002. They didn't add gridline printing until the 2003 version, so it was tough for me to align the pages. I'm sure I'll have access to the newer version someday, though, so thanks for sharing your steps.
The Kinkos solution was the easiest for me. For a few bucks they blew up my normal 8.5" X 11" print out to the actual size. I then taped it on the pre cut CP top and CENTER PUNCHED all the holes. Trackball was pretty simple. After tracing the square I just kind of figured out how the big egg shaped cut out would fit, went slowly and enlarged it where I need to test fitting all the way.
All the center punched holes drilled real easy with a forstner bit.
That doesn't sound too bad - for some reason I figured it would be expensive at Kinko's. Although, with as many versions as I went through, it could still add up! And I guess I need to try out a forstner bit - some others have mentioned that too. I've been using Irwin Speedbors with mixed results...
:cheers:
Chris
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The main reason Visio didn't work for me was that I was using 2002. They didn't add gridline printing until the 2003 version, so it was tough for me to align the pages. I'm sure I'll have access to the newer version someday, though, so thanks for sharing your steps.
Maybe there's something I'm missing, but couldn't you have put in the alignment lines yourself? You could create a box around 5" x 5" with faint lines and no fill that could be duplicated across the entire CP fairly quickly.