Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Timoe on April 25, 2007, 08:03:58 pm
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Uh oh! What are these??!!
The sides and back are 3/4" mdf (2 pieces laminated together)
The top is 5/8" mdf
The bottom is 1/4" mdf plexiglass
I'm just waiting for the glue to dry then I'm going to flush trim the pieces and route a 45 degree chamfer around the edges of the laminated pieces.
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Cookbook holders?
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Styx eh?
Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto,
Mata ah-oo hima de
Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto,
Himitsu wo shiri tai
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Thank you very much, Mr. Roboto
For doing the jobs that nobody wants to :laugh2:
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Uh oh! What are these??!!
Let's see.... A soldering iron and hacked game controller in the background? I'm thinking dual level spice rack for the wife.
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Uh oh! What are these??!!
Let's see.... A soldering iron and hacked game controller in the background? I'm thinking dual level spice rack for the wife.
Thats funny. I guess I could make a spice rack that looks like a game controller/cook book holder.
:cheers:
I really have no idea why I'm even making these. :dizzy: If someone reading this decides that they want them, they will certainly be available.
I should have taken a shot to show the scale, they are pretty small. The CPT is smaller than 8x11. I'm thinking I'll make one white and one black.
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Im thinking they will be used for pillocking
the mud sport where you skip across mud flats on wooden shoes
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Props for a home brew Star Trek episode?
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I dont know why but I decided to use glue and dowels to hold the case together. I guess I just didnt want to use putty and deal with all that sanding to cover screw holes.
The cases fit together pretty tight. I'm going to wait and see if I come up with any more ideas before I glue em together.
The top panel is held down a little less than 1/8" from the top of the side to allow for a plexiglass cover over the CP.
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Yeah, I immediately thought mini-panels.
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Props for a home brew Star Trek episode?
im thinking more along the lines of blakes 7, or doctor who ;D
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Props for a home brew Star Trek episode?
im thinking more along the lines of blakes 7, or doctor who ;D
Maybe for the sequel of Redemption 101?
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;D
They look good, whatever they are.. :)
Still, I'm sure we all need MORE PICS!
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Still, I'm sure we all need MORE PICS!
I gotchyer Pics-
I thought it would be cool to use the roundover bit on the cable hole in the back. I used it on both sides just to make it look smooth. I think I saw theCoder do it once.
Here is a before and after pic.
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I read in a recent ShopNotes magazine that it is good to smooth out the endgrain of mdf with drywall mud if you are going to be painting it. I had some 20minute mud that I snatched from a jobsite and so here we are.
I had an imperfection in one of the pieces due to bad math so this should fix that end piece.
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I have always wanted to try those Japanese style joysticks and buttons. Thats really why I am making these things. I am modeling them after the Byrdo.org style cases.
So far, every control panel I have made has had the top of the CP open or removable. Its just how I've always done it. This time the construction will be more like a commercial joystick where the wiring is accessed through the bottom.
I will have 4 screws that go through the rubber feet into the four corners of the bottom of the box. The control panel top will be permanently attached to the box.
For this reason I decided to use hardwood in the four corners as opposed to mdf. Mdf just comes apart too easily if you are taking screws in and out of it all the time to access the insides.
In this pic you can see how I have clamped and glued the hardwood pieces to the mdf. The corner pieces have a matching 2 degree slope to maintain the angle and the support.
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I used 1/4" dowels on the front piece and 3/8" dowels on the back piece.
The drill press makes it real nice to drill plumb into the side of the mdf.
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Think you just set some sort of record for #of clamps used on a piece this size. ;D
Drywall mud works great for sealing end grain. Bondo Spot Putty(the red stuff in a tube) works great too and dries fast. I've been using it instead of wood filler for some time now.
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Yeah I used a lot of glue and clamps, but they're solid.
A little more mud and sanding and they'll be ready for primer.
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Some serious woodworking going on here - looks great.
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Spray paint is so smooth.
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Here is another gratuitous pic showing the smoothness of spray paint.
I used a gloss rustoleum.
1. Do you think I should use a few coats of glossy clear coat? Any recommendations for product? Spray on, etc?
Also, now I'm looking for artwork. In keeping with the japanese theme I imagine some anime artwork if not street fighter style.
2. Any recommendations of desktop wallpaper or artwork websites?
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Ohhhhh...styx/sticks. I thought something literary-themed from that name.
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Here is another gratuitous pic showing the smoothness of spray paint.
I used a gloss rustoleum.
1. Do you think I should use a few coats of glossy clear coat? Any recommendations for product? Spray on, etc?
Also, now I'm looking for artwork. In keeping with the japanese theme I imagine some anime artwork if not street fighter style.
2. Any recommendations of desktop wallpaper or artwork websites?
What ever you do, I would not recommend 8 color coats followed by 5 clear coat. Way too much. I'd definitely go with one or two coats of a clear lacquer. I used stuff in a spray can. Just make sure to hit it with steel wool or 600+ grit paper between coats.
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Nice work so far Tim, I'm guessing one of these is going to be your Ms Pacman right? What is the other one going to be?
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What ever you do, I would not recommend 8 color coats followed by 5 clear coat. Way too much. I'd definitely go with one or two coats of a clear lacquer. I used stuff in a spray can. Just make sure to hit it with steel wool or 600+ grit paper between coats.
Yeah I dont want to put any more work into these things than I have to, they're sort of a side project right now. I've always wanted to try the spray on poly. We'll give it a go.
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Nice work so far Tim, I'm guessing one of these is going to be your Ms Pacman right? What is the other one going to be?
Actually I havent started on our panels yet. I'm actually at the wiring/troubleshooting stage with another project right now and I was just working on these little guys in my off time.
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Great technique with the Bondo-patched MDF and a quality paint job. Looks almost like real wood, especially with the beveled sides instead of t-molding. It'd be cool to see that style on a little bartop cab.
Great work!
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What are you working on now? Did you ever finish that big steering wheel thing you did after mine. I kinda lost track of it.
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What are you working on now? Did you ever finish that big steering wheel thing you did after mine. I kinda lost track of it.
The guy is coming to pick it up right now.
I'm still learnin how to use spray paint.
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We're going to use Sanwa JLF joysticks in these little guys. Thank you Ponyboy for the fast service.
These JLF sticks are sure different. The joy itself is tiny but it has all these odd shapes jutting out of it. I want to mount it flush with the surface of the control panel and then cover it with plexi.
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......
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On the Sanwa JLF stick there are these weird little plastic pieces jutting out just under the mounting plate.
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Step three:
The JLF features a nice wire plug to make it look all tidy, but it juts out at the bottom and the 5/8" mdf is too thick for it to sit properly.
Here is the notch I cleared out for the wiring harness.
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For fun I added some button holes & buttons.
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Looks pretty neat and tidy with all those templates.
BTW Love the dovetails!
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Nice job on the sanwa mounting templates. :cheers:
I use a similar system but only use two templates.
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Sanwa snap ins are so satisfying after threading those long ass Happ buttons. :)
Did you get some .110 QD for the buttons?
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Did you get some .110 QD for the buttons?
No I didnt, I was contemplating solder cause it can make the wires look so tidy. But I like the idea of keeping the parts in pristine condition.
Any suggestions on where to get the tiny QD's? Home depot, auto parts store, etc?
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I get em here. (http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Red-Quick-Disconnect-Terminal-22-18-Wire-110-Tab_W0QQitemZ280017496013QQihZ018QQcategoryZ7285QQcmdZViewItem) They're excellent quality and the fit is very tight. They won't fall off. On sanwa applications I highly recommend quick disconnects for replacing the buttons as they don't last as long as Happ buttons.
:cheers:
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Man, that joystick has a low profile. How thick is it?
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Man, that joystick has a low profile. How thick is it?
Its pretty tiny. From the top of the mounting plate to the very bottom of the joystick is about 1-3/8".
This is my new favorite joystick. It feels great. Much better than the Sanwa JLW (or J-Stick)
The microswitches have a loudish click but it is closer to the cherry microswitch sound and less of a "ping" like the X-arcade switches. The action is light and precise though perhaps not as light as the j-stick. Each direction is very pronounced and it is clear when you are at a diagonal vs up,down,left,right. It really feels like the Cadillac of japanese sticks.
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The JLF is my favorite as well. I love how responsive they are.
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I decided to use 1/4" plexiglass for the bottom. I always think its fun to see the insides.
So I drilled through the four corners and I will mount the rubber feet through the plexi. (I'll post a picture of the feet installed in a few days)
I put a 45 degree bevel around the edge of the glass just to look cool.
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I've got the tops pretty well machined. I need to put them on the drill press for the plexiglass hold downs but I'll get to that later.
I am painting the tops white but they will get covered with artwork later.
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Nice work. Those babies look like they are molded from plastic or something. :)
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Boy have I missed out by not following this thread closely. ;D Nice job on the templates, they will definitely help speed things up and give them a professional look. I have to agree with Knievel, after the paint the panels look like molded plastic. Sweet job on the paint.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Aren't the Sanwa pushbuttons designed for a metal panel? Do the tabs press against the sidewalls of the hole? Great progress.
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Snap ins would. The ones he's using are screw ins though. They work the same as Happ buttons but you still have to mount them in pretty thin material.
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Nice job on the sanwa mounting templates. :cheers:
I use a similar system but only use two templates.
I'd love to see pictures of your setup.
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Looking great so far, blows my doa 4 stick out of the water for a small 1 player solution :)
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Looking great so far, blows my doa 4 stick out of the water for a small 1 player solution :)
Thanks.
I'm just having fun now.
Here is a pic of the feet installed. And the two tone paint job. Hmmmm, I wonder why I did that?
..... ;D
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Very nice. :cheers:
I like the blue and black one.
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Very nice. :cheers:
I like the blue and black one.
Thank you,
It looks like we have an offer on one of these guys already. But I am sure there will be more....
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Here are some preview pics.
I used a round over bit on the front edges of the plexiglass so its comfortable on the wrists.
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Again, very nice. :cheers:
Any artwork planned?
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Again, very nice. :cheers:
Any artwork planned?
I've been perusing alot of anime stuff online. If they end up taken by other people then I will certainly leave it up to the buyer.
The panel top is just under 8.5 x 11 so it will be real easy to print at home on photo paper and change out if need be.
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Simply stunning. Great work.
I'd LOVE to have one of those to pack on vacations. I could throw it in my carry on and hook it up to my laptop while out on the road.
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Those are looking really nice. The definitely look like a commercial product, in a good way.
Simply stunning. Great work.
I'd LOVE to have one of those to pack on vacations. I could throw it in my carry on and hook it up to my laptop while out on the road.
I brought my 1 player controller on a business trip I am on right now and thought about carrying on the controller and then playing on the plane just to see what kind of looks I would get, but then I realized that the stupid little tray is too small for the laptop and CP and there isn't room from my belly to the tray to fit my controller. I could play in the airport but that's just not as funny.
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NIIIIIIIIIICE! Love the window on the bottom. :applaud:
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Excellent work so far Timoe. You are getting me pumped to build one or two of these little bad boys myself. :applaud: 'Supose I need to get Dad's Bartop done first though :(
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Very sweet!
I am always blown away by the level of skill some of you guys show on here. I just consider my stuff a success when the pieces are close to square - I could never do what you do.
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Oh, man, I could have used one of these recently on a business trip. Very nice job on the paint. Sorry if you mentioned it earlier, but what are the finished outside dimensions of the box, primarily the height? I'm also interested to know how much it weighs when all is said and done. Look'n great!
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what are the finished outside dimensions of the box, primarily the height?
The outside of the box is: 14" x 9" x 3.25" tall
The control panel top is: 10.75" x 7.25"
Here are some art ideas I printed earlier today. I am not happy with either of them. I have about 45 other options in my CP art folder to try out. Looks like I'll be printing and cutting for a bit.
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Here is another idea
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Awesome job. :cheers:
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Here is another idea
The white one is nice yes. Clean.
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Simply beautiful. You have some serious talent. Sorry if this has been covered but what is going inside of these things? An iPac or something? Also, what's the center button for?
:cheers:
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These guys are for sale, so I dunno whats going in them yet. xbox or PC gamepad pcb probably.
I have a couple of USB gamepads that I will hack for them but I am going to come up with a standard wiring and terminal block layout so I can have some consistency in the future. I hope to have the same screw/drill pattern for the terminal block and pcb for a PC gamepad or an xbox gamepad pcb. ...hopefully.
The center button is a start button.
I figure if they are used for a console then you dont really need the select button and if they are used for mame and you're hooked up to a PC you can reach over and press the coin (5) key on your keyboard.
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That's the way I view joysticks for consoles too. No select button. Arcades don't have select buttons, I don't see the need for console sticks to have em.
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These guys are for sale, so I dunno whats going in them yet. xbox or PC gamepad pcb probably.
I have a couple of USB gamepads that I will hack for them but I am going to come up with a standard wiring and terminal block layout so I can have some consistency in the future. I hope to have the same screw/drill pattern for the terminal block and pcb for a PC gamepad or an xbox gamepad pcb. ...hopefully.
The center button is a start button.
I figure if they are used for a console then you dont really need the select button and if they are used for mame and you're hooked up to a PC you can reach over and press the coin (5) key on your keyboard.
I love the look of these things. Fantastic work. But, why bother putting a start button on there if you don't put a coin button somewhere? If it's mainly for design purposes, then nice work, but I don't buy that everyone wants to have the coin button conveniently located on a nearby keyboard. I know I don't want to reach over and find the 5 button every time I want to insert a few more coins. Alternatively, I guess you could set all your arcade games to freeplay. But, I kind of like the insert coin sounds in street fighter. :P
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These guys are for sale, so I dunno whats going in them yet. xbox or PC gamepad pcb probably.
I have a couple of USB gamepads that I will hack for them but I am going to come up with a standard wiring and terminal block layout so I can have some consistency in the future. I hope to have the same screw/drill pattern for the terminal block and pcb for a PC gamepad or an xbox gamepad pcb. ...hopefully.
The center button is a start button.
I figure if they are used for a console then you dont really need the select button and if they are used for mame and you're hooked up to a PC you can reach over and press the coin (5) key on your keyboard.
I love the look of these things. Fantastic work. But, why bother putting a start button on there if you don't put a coin button somewhere? If it's mainly for design purposes, then nice work, but I don't buy that everyone wants to have the coin button conveniently located on a nearby keyboard. I know I don't want to reach over and find the 5 button every time I want to insert a few more coins. Alternatively, I guess you could set all your arcade games to freeplay. But, I kind of like the insert coin sounds in street fighter. :P
For you Ken, It's a coin button then :cheers:
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I need some help here. Option A or B?
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B looks better to me.
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Wow!
Great job as usual Tim.
These are your best builds yet.
As for the interface, hack both a gamepad and a usb stick and make a multi-platform setup.
-D
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I like the first picture alot better, but I dont know how well it goes with the button colors.
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Okay, I think this is pretty much it. This way they are both Guilty Gear themed sticks.
I have another piece of art with Dizzy (chick on the black stick) on a black background. I may swap it out for the one on the white background.
I'm going to go ahead and clean up the plexi and add the screws.
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It's a coin button and a start button? :dizzy:
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Very nice! :cheers:
The baiken stick gets my vote. She's hot and she's one of my characters too. 8)
The plexi bottoms are a very nice touch. I may try that sometime on one of my sticks.
Great job! :cheers:
Can't wait to see what next comes out of your shop.
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Very nice! :cheers:
The baiken stick gets my vote. She's hot and she's one of my characters too. 8)
The plexi bottoms are a very nice touch. I may try that sometime on one of my sticks.
Great job! :cheers:
Can't wait to see what next comes out of your shop.
Thanks. Well I really like the wire harness for the JLF joysticks. It has enabled some extra slots on the 12-position terminal block.
Oh I dunno +5V and some other things. Maybe I can take advantage of the +5V, the colors inside the box, the plexi bottom, the fact that the feet raise the box 1/4" off the table to make some cool effects?
...... >:D
I've still got one cool step to try on these guys.
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Some blue LED's on the bottom pointing down & out would really look cool.
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Some blue LED's on the bottom pointing down & out would really look cool.
hmmmm.
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Some blue LED's on the bottom pointing down & out would really look cool.
Hey, does your hacked gamepad have force-feedback? Wire up some superbrights to strobe whenever the FF gets triggered.
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URTH
Check this out
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I hate to keep posting just to take up bandwidth but I found a better way to mount the sanwa buttons
BLAM!
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Thats pretty slick, Timoe.
I like the new avatar too. You practicing your Photoshop?
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Thats pretty slick, Timoe.
I like the new avatar too. You practicing your Photoshop?
I wish, I am planning on teaching myself with some online tutorials but the last couple of days I've been in the shop building panels for folks. That avatar was made by someone over at the Shoryuken forums.
Thanks for the positive feedback.
Here are some updated designs. I found a way to slim down the size of the stick quite a bit.
Also, I added the Coin/Select button with the start button on the back for Kentoad :D
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That is friggin' awesome Timoe... :notworthy:
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Thanks again. I used more dowels on these. Here is a diagram showing where they are.
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You sure are whipping these things out. They are so cool! You make me want to give one a try - too bad I've got a wet cabinet in the shop/garage so I can't use the table saw right now or else it would be on.
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Slick design. :cheers:
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Thats pretty slick, Timoe.
I like the new avatar too. You practicing your Photoshop?
I wish, I am planning on teaching myself with some online tutorials but the last couple of days I've been in the shop building panels for folks. That avatar was made by someone over at the Shoryuken forums.
Thanks for the positive feedback.
Here are some updated designs. I found a way to slim down the size of the stick quite a bit.
Also, I added the Coin/Select button with the start button on the back for Kentoad :D
Supersweet!!!!
I love them, amazingly clean design.
I'll take 5% commission for the use of my suggestion. :D
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Timoe, you build the ---smurfing--- coolest panels. No-one does it better.
One word: Awesome!
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The dowel pins add a lot of strength. Nice design.
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Looks great! I love it :D
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mmmmmmm, Teak smells so gooooooood....
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I hate to keep posting just to take up bandwidth but I found a better way to mount the sanwa buttons
BLAM!
Hmmm...
That's a interesting technique YOU found there!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62819.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62819.0)
Along with the "Designed to fit in a flat rate box concept! ::)
At any rate... Nice looking sticks, Wish I still had time to build more myself.
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I hate to keep posting just to take up bandwidth but I found a better way to mount the sanwa buttons
BLAM!
Hmmm...
That's a interesting technique YOU found there!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62819.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62819.0)
Along with the "Designed to fit in a flat rate box concept! ::)
At any rate... Nice looking sticks, Wish I still had time to build more myself.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Wow guy, if the search function worked, or better yet if I actually used the search function I might have seen your old boxes. Good job. Your sticks look nice.
Here are some pics from our first happy customer. (Wiring, art and part installation by Customer - Urth)
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I love the clear buttons that really looks sharp Tim.
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I love the clear buttons that really looks sharp Tim.
Dont forget I still have a trackball that belongs to you. We gotta get that in a project somehow!
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Yeah I know lol. I might end up selling it since I'm doing the bartops now. I'm going to order one that I'm going to put together for myself this week with an ultrastick. The one for my dad I'll still need help on because I wanna do the two magstick plus joysticks on.
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I'd recommend going with socket head screws instead of Philips on the Plexiglas. They come in flat head like your current screw, or you can go with a button head. IMHO, they look more professional than Philips heads.
Congrats on your first sale. You should sell a bunch. Hopefully you can get the process down so that you don't make $0.24 per hour for your labor. Looks great!
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I'd recommend going with socket head screws instead of Philips on the Plexiglas. They come in flat head like your current screw, or you can go with a button head. IMHO, they look more professional than Philips heads.
Congrats on your first sale. You should sell a bunch. Hopefully you can get the process down so that you don't make $0.24 per hour for your labor. Looks great!
Awesome. Actually, we offer a range of decorative screws. This guy wanted those screws. I gotta look into the alan style or button heads
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Tim I pmed you let me know if you got it as Im not sure it went through. IT was a question about these sticks.
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Where's my 5% commission. :angry:
Keep up the good work. :angel:
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Here are some pics from our first happy customer.
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
...breathtaking!
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obviously Timoe is GOD ! :notworthy:
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thanks, we've really found our niche with these little sticks. I've already built 3 more but I cant post pics until they are complete. We're just waiting on parts. They are getting crazy now. I cant wait to share. :hissy:
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yay timoe
:woot:
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Once I get my act together you are going to have some competition Timoe. :cheers: You have some killer sticks keep up the good work.
TTFN
Kaytrim
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Once I get my act together you are going to have some competition Timoe. :cheers: You have some killer sticks keep up the good work.
TTFN
Kaytrim
I dont look at it like competition, I look at it as help :o
I'm freagin' swimming in orders right now. If my wife wasnt helping me stay organized and what not I'd be in big trouble.
And Kaytrim, thats one heck of a bartop you've built.
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I dont look at it like competition, I look at it as help :o
I'm freagin' swimming in orders right now. If my wife wasnt helping me stay organized and what not I'd be in big trouble.
In that case, once I get the basement finished off I will be more than happy to give you some help. :cheers:
you have pm
And Kaytrim, thats one heck of a bartop you've built.
Thanks, there was a heck of a lot of work in that thing. ;D If I can get the trackball to work 100% then it'll be golden.
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can't wait for the mini teak ;D
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The June '07 Fleet has arrived. ....
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/IMG_0001.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/IMG_0010.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/IMG_0011.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/IMG_0012.jpg)
Artwork and parts where installed by the customer, Urth, on this one.
Specifications:
-Sanwa JLF with Octagonal Gate
-Seimitsu buttons
-Wired for PS2
-Teak case
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Stick for Kaden Dark-
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/KadenDark11.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/KadenDark1.jpg)
Specifications:
-Sanwa JLF with Cherry microswitches
-Seimitsu buttons
-Wired for Xbox360
-Illuminated undercarriage
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Stick for Mepaphoros-
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Mepaphoros12.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Mepaphoros19.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MepaphorosUnderside6.jpg)
Specifications:
-Happ P360
-Seimitsu buttons
-Wired for Xbox360
-Illuminated undercarriage
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HOLY...
.................S-H-I-T-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-!-! :notworthy:
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Wow!
Very nice.
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OMG Timoe :o those sticks are killer. What are you using to get the print on the plexi?
Kaytrim
*EDIT, and where do you get the clear buttons where the artwork is inserted?
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OMG Timoe :o those sticks are killer. What are you using to get the print on the plexi?
Kaytrim
*EDIT, and where do you get the clear buttons where the artwork is inserted?
that looks like a vinyl decal but it could been stencil painted on the plexi,
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:dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy:
I WANT ONE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PM SENT ;D
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OMG Timoe :o those sticks are killer. What are you using to get the print on the plexi?
Kaytrim
*EDIT, and where do you get the clear buttons where the artwork is inserted?
Kaytrim-
I am a general contractor and my signage guy has a plotter to cut adhesive backed vinyl or ....... PAINT MASK. So I have him reverse whatever image I need and then he plots it on the painters mask and I apply it like a stencil to the plexi and spray paint it.
The buttons come from Ponyboy and are Seimitsu, they were special order though, I dont think he stocks them. Akihabarashop.com sells them like hot cakes though
They are freagin tight. You pop out the plunger and use your off cuts for your button holes and just squeeze the off cut into the plunger of the button and WHA LA.
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Really nice work Timoe, makes me want one to replace me doa4 stick :)
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OMG Timoe :o those sticks are killer. What are you using to get the print on the plexi?
Kaytrim
*EDIT, and where do you get the clear buttons where the artwork is inserted?
Kaytrim-
I am a general contractor and my signage guy has a plotter to cut adhesive backed vinyl or ....... PAINT MASK. So I have him reverse whatever image I need and then he plots it on the painters mask and I apply it like a stencil to the plexi and spray paint it.
Are those paint masks reusable and what is the cost?
The buttons come from Ponyboy and are Seimitsu, they were special order though, I dont think he stocks them. Akihabarashop.com sells them like hot cakes though
They are freagin tight. You pop out the plunger and use your off cuts for your button holes and just squeeze the off cut into the plunger of the button and WHA LA.
Yea I asked Ponyboy about those buttons and he said he dosen't carry them. In your opinion who is a better source for the Japanese parts? It seems like you have worked with both Ponyboy and Akihabarashop. (btw what are the part numbers for those buttons?)
Thanks and TTFN
Kaytrim
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OMG Timoe :o those sticks are killer. What are you using to get the print on the plexi?
Kaytrim
*EDIT, and where do you get the clear buttons where the artwork is inserted?
Kaytrim-
I am a general contractor and my signage guy has a plotter to cut adhesive backed vinyl or ....... PAINT MASK. So I have him reverse whatever image I need and then he plots it on the painters mask and I apply it like a stencil to the plexi and spray paint it.
Are those paint masks reusable and what is the cost?
The buttons come from Ponyboy and are Seimitsu, they were special order though, I dont think he stocks them. Akihabarashop.com sells them like hot cakes though
They are freagin tight. You pop out the plunger and use your off cuts for your button holes and just squeeze the off cut into the plunger of the button and WHA LA.
Yea I asked Ponyboy about those buttons and he said he dosen't carry them. In your opinion who is a better source for the Japanese parts? It seems like you have worked with both Ponyboy and Akihabarashop. (btw what are the part numbers for those buttons?)
Thanks and TTFN
Kaytrim
vinyl paint masks are not reusable, they should be relatively cheap, goto any signshop and ask if he can cut them for you, if you have the image in vector he shouldnt charge you more then machine time and material, and paint mask is pretty cheap (around 1$ a yard)
i also have a plotter/cutter and i could cut you some stuff but it would have to be a significant amount to warrant paying shipping
btw generally machine time is around 1$ a minute. but if the image is vectored it shouldnt take very long at all
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These are too good not to share with the world. I'm so writing a story on these, Tim.
EDIT: Here's the story... http://stupidgamer.com/2007/06/29/tims-custom-console-arcade-sticks/
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Any new sticks Timoe?
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¡Hola Michael!
He sido funcionamiento muy ocupado en los palillos nuevos. Fijaré los palillos a partir de Julio en la primera semana de Agosto. Tenemos algunos nuevos diseños y estilos que no se han considerado en el BYOAC.
:cheers:
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Timoe,
Hola y grasias para el information. Yo intendo casi toto que tu dice y no estoy perfecto in eso idoma pere yo trata mucho. Yo savia que tu eres muy ocupado y no puede coher nuevos ordinados hasta augusto. Tengo mucho preguentas para ti pero my voy a mandar esos en email.
Hasta Luego amigo,
Kaytrim :cheers:
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...and here I thought I had some cool ideas for some stix of my own. Really great stuff man.
keep it up.
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Por que estan hablando en espanol? No importa, cuando tengas la oportunidad de mostrarnos los disenos nuevos, hazlo por favor. Todavia estoy interesado en comprar uno para usar con Xbox Live Arcade.
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The August 2007 Fleet has arrived
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Pyrestrike%20White%20MDF%20Slim/PyrestrikeFinal10.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Pyrestrike%20White%20MDF%20Slim/PyrestrikeFinal2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Pyrestrike%20White%20MDF%20Slim/PyrestrikeFinal12.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zombies/ZombiesFinished17.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zombies/ZombiesFinished20.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zombies/ZombiesFinished14.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Steve%20Black%20MDF%20Slim/SteveDuong3.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Steve%20Black%20MDF%20Slim/SteveDuong2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Steve%20Black%20MDF%20Slim/SteveDuong.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Mahogany/Mahogany1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Mahogany/Mahogany2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Mahogany/Mahogany3-1.jpg)
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...continued
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zebrawood/Zebrawood3.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zebrawood/Zebrawood2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zebrawood/Zebrawood1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Zebrawood/Zebrawood4.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Bolivian%20Rosewood/BolivianRosewood2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Bolivian%20Rosewood/BolivianRosewood1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Bolivian%20Rosewood/BolivianRosewood.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Bolivian%20Rosewood/BolivianRosewood3.jpg)
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:o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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damn dude... looks great
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dude where are my sticks you said aug 2 :angry:
(lol..email sent)
godly construction as usual !
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dammit man! you're like a machine or something! lmao.
Where by chance did you get the background on the Ken stick?
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Geese Timoe, you are cranking these out left and right. I hope to be able to get to your level of perfection soon. The CP tops look like plastic instead of MDF. Any chance I can get a good look at your JLF cutting templates with depths? I've got my Happ's done and button layout done just need the JLF one. I should be able to start with my hardwood soon.
TTFN :cheers:
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Wow!
:notworthy:
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This one was fun to make. I laminated 3 sheets of 3/4 mdf into a solid block and then carved this from it with my router.
MURDER BLACK
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Murder%20Black/MurderBlackFinal1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Murder%20Black/MurderBlackFinal.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Murder%20Black/MBUnderside.jpg)
Specifications:
•Sony PS1 Digital PCB
•Sanwa JLF, Octagonal Restrictor, Shaft Cover & 45mm Ball Top
•Seimitsu Buttons
•Individual ground wires for easy button removal
•Routed from a single block of MDF
•Satin Clear Coat Finish
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That's quite sexy. Must have created a lot of dust :P
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:applaud:
that is a sexy beast right there man. Damn good work.
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Holy crap Timoe - that is really a work of art. How did you get such a nice finish on the edges of the laminated MDF? I built a bookcase with a 1" top so I laminated two 1/2" pieces of MDF but no matter how much I sanded the seam I couldn't get it to disappear completely like you seem to have done... any tips?
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One word, Bondo. ;D At least that how I would do it, slather the edges with the stuff after general shaping then sand it down to the final shape. Of course several layers of Kilz2 primer and a sanding could do the trick too. Though IIRC Timoe does it another way but I'll let him tell if he wants to. ;)
:notworthy: Sweet stick Timoe.
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Thanks guys. I just laminated the mdf, then rough cut it down on the table saw. When you cut the laminated pieces, they end up flush and smooth. After that I used a flush trim bit and a template. Primer and paint. Thats it.
I did the same thing with poplar and it came out just as well.
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What type of glue did you use Timoe? I am guessing you used strong clamps to get the boards nice a tight.
TTFN
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What type of glue did you use Timoe? I am guessing you used strong clamps to get the boards nice a tight.
TTFN
TiteBond II and I go sorta crazy with the clamps :D
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I hope you are using a respirator on when you route out that block of MDF. And that you do it outside or someplace out of the house, that fine dust is killer. :dizzy: Do you have any dust collection system setup?
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As javeryh said - that's a work of art! :notworthy:
Such an lovely finish.
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I hope you are using a respirator on when you route out that block of MDF. And that you do it outside or someplace out of the house, that fine dust is killer. :dizzy: Do you have any dust collection system setup?
There was a lot of dust The inside alone from that stick filled a trash bag.
But I used a large forstner bit to hog out most of the center so that it came out as curly strips of paper rather than dust. :cheers:
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Couldn't you do a rough cut of the MDF layers before you glued them together? For instance cut out the inner section of the bottom layer.
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Timoe,
You are making me feel painfully inadequate. Didn't you ask me not too long ago how to build an arcade cab? And now I see these. I'm in awe, seriously.
:notworthy: :notworthy:
:cheers:
KenToad
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Couldn't you do a rough cut of the MDF layers before you glued them together? For instance cut out the inner section of the bottom layer.
Thats a good idea. But I just glue up a coupla blocks and throw em in the corner of my garage. I come back to them later and I've got all sorts of jigs that I just throw on there and I rip through the blocks with a big ol straight bit.
It goes pretty fast and easy. You just gave me some new ideas though. :D
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Timoe,
You are making me feel painfully inadequate. Didn't you ask me not too long ago how to build an arcade cab? And now I see these. I'm in awe, seriously.
:notworthy: :notworthy:
:cheers:
KenToad
Thanks mang,
Woodworking an electronics are a great combination. And to have a chance to work with woods from west africa and south america ?!! Thats so cool. I guess I could make jewelry boxes or something but I wouldnt be able to get rid of them and they would pile up all over the place.
entropy=bad :(
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Wow.. that last one is awesome. I mean, they're all awesome... but that one is.. more awesomer.
I think I'd go crazy with that much MDF dust flying around. You do have to think about your health.
I want to see you build a little cab for those sticks, now. ;D
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Hey, where'd you get the cool looking cloud graphic for this one? ;)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Murder%20Black/MurderBlackFinal1.jpg)
This simple black scheme is really clean looking and I like the curves and angles. It looks cast, not carved, very nice.
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I must thank Timoe in advance for posting how he makes sticks. Back in June I came across Byrdo's site, then saw MameMaster!'s 360 controller on here, then saw Timoe's awesome work and since I've caught the stick bug hehe. I have four planned I don't think I will go into production, I just want a few sticks for each console I have. I just commissioned a few hacked controllers from HarumaN :) The thing that intrigues me about stick making especially is like Timoe said, working with the different hardwoods is pretty cool.
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NO WAY!!!
This is simply unbelievable... You are not only a great builder, you are also a great PRODUCT DESIGNER. Awesome sense of what creates EMOTIONAL CONNECTION with the user. Hats off to you and RESPECT from me, that's all I can say.
-A
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^^^^ Thanks a bunch :cheers:
This one below was a ton of fun to make. It was my wifes design:
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPacMan.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPacMan2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPac1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPacBack4.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPacUndercariage1.jpg)
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Thats quality! Nice work :cheers:
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:o
ART :notworthy:
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Too bad this little lady sold in 3 hours flat over on the SRK forums. You may have to make a few more of these Timoe. ;)
TTFN
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That's seriously impressive. Again! 8)
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:notworthy:
Simply unbelievable. The attention to detail is second to none - my favorite part of these things is the clear bottom and how you can see inside. I love it.
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This hobby is becoming more and more fun all the time.
This stick is made from Teak and coated with polyurethane.
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Sweet stick there Tim. :cheers: How long does it take you to build one of these 2-3 weeks?
TTFN
Kaytrim
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That looks great.
Just cannot help feeling it would look even nicer with that dust washer below that tiny hole in the CP.
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That looks great.
Just cannot help feeling it would look even nicer with that dust washer below that tiny hole in the CP.
Exactly patrickl, thats why it was made so. The hole leaves about a milimeter of extra space when the stick is thrown in any direction. And you can't really feel it with your palm. I will be doing them this way from now on so that the customer has the option of above or below the panel.
Here is a picture taken with a black dustwasher below the plexiglass.
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Sweet stick there Tim. :cheers: How long does it take you to build one of these 2-3 weeks?
TTFN
Kaytrim
It usually takes me over a month for each stick. The varnish process alone takes a few weeks.
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Gorgeous as always... where do you get those clear buttons from? They are really cool. Also, care to share your varnishing process? Is it just stain with poly? Tung oil with poly? The wood is beautiful.
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Gorgeous as always... where do you get those clear buttons from? They are really cool. Also, care to share your varnishing process? Is it just stain with poly? Tung oil with poly? The wood is beautiful.
I get the Seimitsu parts from www.akihabarashop.com - great vendor and you can get anything that Sanwa or Seimitsu sells from him.
As for the Varnish, I do not stain. Rather than try to make a wood look like another species, I just use the species I want it to look like. :D For a brown wood, I use Walnut for a purple wood I use Purple Heart, etc.
I sand the stick down to 320 grit and get everything as perfect as I can, then I clean it with Mineral Spirits. After that evaporates I apply Oil Based Polyurethane. Using a Danish Oil, Tung oil, etc is not needed as the oil based poly will bring out the grain the same way. I sand with 320 between the first 5-8 coats then I move up to 400grit between coats. I have gotten to the point where it is glass smooth on the last coat. I cant remember which coat that is though, probably like coat number 12 or higher. I lose count.
On this Walnut one, I sanded from 400grit to 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and then used rubbing compound, glaze and wax to get this:
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Gorgeous as always... where do you get those clear buttons from? They are really cool.
Those buttons come from Japan. They are Seimitsu PS-14-K and come in a variety of translucent colors. Everyone wants the clear ones though for the ability to include the artwork inside the plunger like Tim did here. If you are looking for the clear ones you can find them at LizardLick.com. Otherwise you can place an order with akihabarashop.com/ for one of the other colors. I believe that they are no longer being produced, they are not in their new catalog.
The replacement though has the clear plunger with a solid color bezel. PS-14-GN (30mm) and PS-14-DN (24mm)
TTFN
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That "polished walnut" looks stunning too. The dovetails are cute too and they look very precise. Amazing workmanship on all your "sticks".
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That walnut looks like a rendering, and the way I can usually tell if something is a rendering is that it looks too perfect. :applaud: Beautiful work, your craftsmanship is on a whole other level.
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These are a thing of beauty. I will admit that these sticks and Knievel's work(not to mention the many many other great works of art) have inspired me to sign up and start planning my own setups.
:applaud:
i'll go back to drooling now...
[..drool..]
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Yo Timoe let me know when your making more Sanwa sticks cause i really dig the sticks you make. Id be happy to buy one off ya too if your selling.
Aim is RedHarvest13
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Gorgeous as always... where do you get those clear buttons from? They are really cool. Also, care to share your varnishing process? Is it just stain with poly? Tung oil with poly? The wood is beautiful.
I get the Seimitsu parts from www.akihabarashop.com - great vendor and you can get anything that Sanwa or Seimitsu sells from him.
As for the Varnish, I do not stain. Rather than try to make a wood look like another species, I just use the species I want it to look like. :D For a brown wood, I use Walnut for a purple wood I use Purple Heart, etc.
I sand the stick down to 320 grit and get everything as perfect as I can, then I clean it with Mineral Spirits. After that evaporates I apply Oil Based Polyurethane. Using a Danish Oil, Tung oil, etc is not needed as the oil based poly will bring out the grain the same way. I sand with 320 between the first 5-8 coats then I move up to 400grit between coats. I have gotten to the point where it is glass smooth on the last coat. I cant remember which coat that is though, probably like coat number 12 or higher. I lose count.
On this Walnut one, I sanded from 400grit to 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and then used rubbing compound, glaze and wax to get this:
Being "quite thorough" in your sanding/polishing would be the understatement of the year. Damn dude, you must have a touch of OCD for that kind of finish. ;) Wow. Amazing. The finish looks just like glass. :o
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Thanks, yeah I do feel kind of OCD. I have to remember to look around while I'm doing it. You know, focus on other items or I get cross eyed. :dizzy:
The color and art selection on the stick below are courtesy of my wife.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel4.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel5.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vintage%20Marvel%20Stick/VintageMarvel6.jpg)
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The art direction on this one was also done by my wife. Damn, she's coming up with all the good ones. :banghead:
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom3.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom5.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Spiderman%20vs%20Venom/Spider-ManvsVenom6.jpg)
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Man. The second one is so bad ass. Very, very cool.
-D
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Thank you Dweebs.
This one, Curly Maple, I made the box only. The wiring and art was done by the customer.
(http://kdraper.fastmail.fm/pub/sticks/TMO/finished/topfar.jpg)
(http://kdraper.fastmail.fm/pub/sticks/TMO/finished/back.jpg)
(http://kdraper.fastmail.fm/pub/sticks/TMO/finished/side.jpg)
(http://kdraper.fastmail.fm/pub/sticks/TMO/finished/inside.jpg)
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When I first saw this thread it didn't hold much interest for me. I just thought they were simple, basic controllers. How wrong I was!!! :notworthy:
These are works of art! I particularly like the Ms.Pac-Man one you made. The woodworking is awesome and the whole thing just looks so professional. :applaud:
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Here is a simple new one. Routed from one solid piece of purpleheart. No stain, no glue, no joinery.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Purple%20Heart%20Complete/PurpleHeartSolid.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Purple%20Heart%20Complete/newpourp1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Purple%20Heart%20Complete/PurpleHeartSolid1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Purple%20Heart%20Complete/PurpleHeartSolid6.jpg)
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Now this is a style you can call your own Timoe. Though I bet that block of purpleheart set you back a bit. What kind of wood was that Marvel stick?
TTFN
Kaytrim
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The marvel was black walnut and the spiderman stick was poplar.
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I just noticed the title change of the thread. When did you get featured on MTV???? Do you have a video that can be posted on YouTube?? Here I thought my blurb in GameRoom Mag was cool. I have been trumped by da man. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
:cheers:
Kaytrim
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I was wondering about the MTV bit too. Would make sense though since these sticks really are the best stuff ever.
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nice work.
could you recommend which spray paint to use?
and where you get those rubber feets? (mine dont work well)
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Yes, a link to the Mtv thing.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/MsPacMan/MsPacMan.jpg)
Can you show us how you made this one?
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I will build another similar to ^ the one above soon. I will try to remember to take pics.
There was no mention on MTV. :dunno I was just frontin'
but here is another one made from Morado
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesFinal3.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesFinal2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesBack.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesInside.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Zombie/ZombiesInside1.jpg)
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These are definitely awesome dude. 8)
I especially love the Pac-Man one. I'm jealous, now I'm gonna have to try and make one like it. But I'm sure it will come out half-assed.
By the way, are those buttons you are using made so you can attach a picture in the middle of them or is that some kind of modification you made yourself. How are you doing that? And those little boxes you add inside with the circuit boards, what are the circuit boards? Hacked controllers? What controllers you hacking?
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These are definitely awesome dude. 8)
I especially love the Pac-Man one. I'm jealous, now I'm gonna have to try and make one like it. But I'm sure it will come out half-assed.
By the way, are those buttons you are using made so you can attach a picture in the middle of them or is that some kind of modification you made yourself. How are you doing that? And those little boxes you add inside with the circuit boards, what are the circuit boards? Hacked controllers? What controllers you hacking?
The buttons with the art are made that way. Seimitsu PS-14-GN Black body with Clear plunger would be what was used on that last one. You can get them from LizardLick.com. The circuit boards are console controllers. In the case of most of Timoe's sticks they are PlayStation dualshock pads.
TTFN
Kaytrim
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Timoe - do you have access to a jointer? If not, how do you cut everything so.... flat? :cheers:
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It is not always 'flat' as you will see here in this pic. I hope that Timoe doesn't mind me posting this but it is one of his latest sticks. Curly Maple dyed black.
(http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9083/83384100en0.jpg)
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Timoe - do you have access to a jointer? If not, how do you cut everything so.... flat? :cheers:
Doesn't he use a router for that?
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Hey,
I've been, kind of, out of it lately. Work has been redonkulous.
I have a pretty decent table saw with an 80 tooth blade. I just try to cut em straight.
More than anything, I think I am better at sanding than cutting. I seem to be sanding all the freaking time.
Here is a new one made from a solid block of walnut and the metal plate from a Taito Vewlix cabinet.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/Vewlixprogressphotos.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/WalnutSample2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/RoughCutCase1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/Vewlix1up12.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/Vewlix1up4.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/Vewlix1up13.jpg)
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Wow - that looks great as usual! Why not use MDF instead of Walnut since it was painted? :cheers:
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(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Vewlix/Vewlix1up13.jpg)
this totally rocks!
will it be for a pc or xbox360?
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MAN! These are a work of beauty -- really separates the men from the boys! Colours are fantastic and really well put together ...
Good work!
:cheers:
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It is not always 'flat' as you will see here in this pic. I hope that Timoe doesn't mind me posting this but it is one of his latest sticks. Curly Maple dyed black.
Is Dye different than Stain? I saw an "ebony" stain that looked as if it was black, or is it another product all together?
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The chemical composition is different. Stains muddy the grain and figure of wood. Dye will keep the grain and figure sharp and defined as you can see here. If you are interested in purchasing wood dye look at rockler.com or woodcraft.com and search for TransTints. The little bottles don't look like much but they are concentrated so you mix them with water or denatured alcohol to the desired strength. I have used these myself with nice results.
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Thank you Kaytrim ^, yes Transtint is what I used.
We used walnut for the Vewlix case just to be Extra Premium, for the weight and to be really solid. The stick will be for wireless PS3, I believe.
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When making your boxes from MDF, what kind of treatment do you do for the paint?
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When making your boxes from MDF, what kind of treatment do you do for the paint?
I don't use MDF anymore but when I did my treatment schedule was as follows:
Sand - 220grit
Mineral Spirits wipedown
Primer - Oil based Kilz spray
Sand - 220
Primer -
Sand - 220
Spray paint - 2 light coats
Clear coat spray - 2 light coats
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When making your boxes from MDF, what kind of treatment do you do for the paint?
I don't use MDF anymore
Just wondering why you don't use MDF anymore. I am considering the same choice.
TTFN :cheers:
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I don't use MDF anymore but when I did my treatment schedule was as follows:
Sand - 220grit
Mineral Spirits wipedown
Primer - Oil based Kilz spray
Sand - 220
Primer -
Sand - 220
Spray paint - 2 light coats
Clear coat spray - 2 light coats
Great! Thanks for the info.
My first two sticks I have built from Oak, but on the second one (for a friend) we painted it. If Im not going to stain or dye, I figure it might as well be MDF. I dont care for any woodgrain to show on a painted box.
Thanks again for the information!
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Specifications:
• Case is built from Morado hardwood with a hand-rubbed polyurethane mirror finish
• Sony PS2 Dual Shock 2 PCB
• Sanwa JLF joystick with under mounted dust cover
• Seimitsu PS-14-K snap in buttons
• Bull nosed and flame polished plexiglass top panel with plexiglass screws
• Includes TMO Signature plexiglass bottom panel
• Wired to a terminal strip and quick disconnects
• Case Dimensions 9” x 12” x 2.0" (at front) & 2.75" (at back)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal6.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal5.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal1.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal3.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb300/tmogaming/Morado%20Complete/TMOFinal4.jpg)
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Stunning :o
Wouldn't this look better without plexi on top though? I assume the PU coat would be tough enough.
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But then I wouldn't have had an excuse to use the plexiglass screws ;D
The whole style is sort of a blend. Exotic hardwood, polished clear plexi (top, bottom, buttons, joystick) and japanese style. Plus the customer has the option of art or decoration on the inside of the plexi. :dunno
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Ehh... I wouldn't put art on that, not with that woodgrain pattern on top. 8)
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Yeah, putting art on it would be blasphemy :P
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But then I wouldn't have had an excuse to use the plexiglass screws ;D
Can I get a closer shot of those plexiglass screws?
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Just an fyi. Tim and Brie have opened a website to sell thier joystick cases. They can be found at http://www.norrisarcadesticks.com/ (http://www.norrisarcadesticks.com/)
Tim made the announcement over on shoryuken.com, but forgot to post here. http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=165825 (http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=165825)
Good Luck guys :cheers:
Kaytrim
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very cool. will have to check it out.