Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Hawk Daddy on April 21, 2007, 07:29:18 pm
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So I have my galaga control panel almost ready to get the new layout on it. What would you all suggest be the easiest way to apply the new layout without messing it up? I've heard to put soap and water on the back of it to make it to where it will slide so that it won't mess up. But I think that idea will not work because the 90 degree fold that has to be made into it. Just looking for a little help.
Hawk
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Soapy water or the original variety of Windex is what most people use. Why do you think the 90 degree bend would make a difference?
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I agree, the bend in a Galaga machine won't really make a difference applying it.
You'll notice thats the stress point on that overlay. Many times when you see a Galaga in the wild - the overlay will have worn off at the section of the CP that bends.
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You'd want to spray it down - lightly - and align it on the side with the holes. Start squeeging it so the soap spray starts coming out the sides (so the adhesive can stick to the CP). THEN make your bends
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I'm glad I saw this question. I was just going to try to lay it down without the soapy water. :-[
Well, now I know.
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Well, you *can* stick it down dry, but you only get one chance at it.
By spraying the surface lightly, you get the benefit of being able to reposition a bit to get the alignment right, and it also is easier to get the air bubbles out. If you get too much liquid down though, it will take a lot longer to set, and may have some trouble sticking around a corner until it dries a bit. If you have a CP that just has a small front edge(the 90 degree bend) you can keep the front bit dry,... spray the large area and get that right before laying down the bent portion.
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So the soap doesn't mess with the adhesive?
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It should be fine, just don't go overboard with it.
I use an application spray fluid that is made secifically for vinyl application now, but in the past I have used the soap water trick with no trouble. I have even used it for inside stick applications (where you stick the vinyl to the inside of a piece of glass/plastic) And have never had any visual residue. Just play it safe if you are concerned and keep the soap part and spray really light.
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I should also add that sticking this down is pretty easy, but it helps if you know what to expect. If you have any scrap, be sure to do a test application so you see how it sticks before doing the real thing.
If not, just go slow, and try to get an extra set of hands to help you if it is a larger piece.
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When I worked at Dynamo, the people that applied the side-art always used soapy water.
I don't think we ever did it for the control panels, but I don't see why that wouldn't work as well.
Good luck.
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I've not used the soapy water method for CPO's. I've had good success just applying it straight.
I line it up carefully with the backing still on. Then I clamp it together at the bottom (or where you will finish applying it).
Then I cut off about 1" - 2" of backing at the top.
Smooth the overlay from the clamped side until you get to the exposed part. (I always apply pressure from the middle first then smooth to the edges).
At this point you should have the overlay stuck in place at the top. Remove the clamps. Then just peel the rest of the backing off and smooth it onto the CP.
If you want to proceed more slowly, then cut off 3"-6" of the backing at a time.
Good luck,
Rocky
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I always use the pre-cut holes to align it, then use a couple buttons to clamp it down, and a clamp on the side with no buttons (with a cloth, so the clamp doesn't mark the overlay!), Then what you do is peel the top section (about an inch), and stick it down.
By now you can check your button holes again and especially the alignment with either side, near the bottom. If you are, then you're good to go. Remove the clamping buttons, and just start slowly pulling the peel off across the whole width, about a half inch at a time, while firmly pressing down the exposed adhesive section section. Each time I'm making sure the overlay is firmly sticking and all air bubbles are squeezed out towards the bottom.
No soapy water necessary.
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I should also add that sticking this down is pretty easy, but it helps if you know what to expect. If you have any scrap, be sure to do a test application so you see how it sticks before doing the real thing.
Darn, I did this too soon:
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what the...?
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Yeah, I was in a state of rage and decided I had to demolish something.....
Not really....I bought this CPO from arcadeshop.com but when it arrived, it was clear that this was a mis-print. The colors of the ships on the instructions were all messed up. It was the last CPO for an upright Galaxian he had, so there was no sending a new one.
I'm still not sure if it was a mis-print or a bad original that got scanned, but that doesn't really matter, my original CPO was fine (print-wise) but damaged. So I wanted my money back and arcadeshop wanted a picture of the CPO cut in 20 pieces (or so).
I got my money back, so no problems with arcadeshop.com there !!!
Now awaiting the silk-screened CPO from www.thisoldgame.com
Thought it would be funny to put there here, since I could have practised with applying it first, and then cutting it up (although that might have messed up my CP ;) )
For more about this all, check out the thread about my Galaxian Restoration:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62784.0
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O, I C.
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Look pretty good. What do you all think?
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5057/galagacpsc8.gif)
Hawk
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Looks shiny and new :o Good work, did everyones advice make it easier, it looks like there weren't any problems.
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That looks effing sweet. Nice job! :cheers:
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Um the advice helped. I did have to use 3m spray to get the 1 inch part on the bottom to stay, but other then that it worked out pretty well.
Hawk
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Where'd you print it?
( <rant> Why is it printed overlays don't stick as well as the real NOS overlays?? </rant> )
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Where'd you print it?
( <rant> Why is it printed overlays don't stick as well as the real NOS overlays?? </rant> )
I remember that from the kits I installed, the adhesive on the back of most of the overlays was incredibly sticky. They used some sort of heavy-duty industrial adhesive on the backs of those things. When I had to remove them, I'd need to spend a while with a heat-gun to get them off. My guess is newly printed cp overlays don't use the same adhesives.