Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Organic Jerk on April 01, 2007, 02:31:24 am
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Is there any type of Happ Joystick compatible microswitch that's REALLY quiet (to the point of being mute)?
After looking around, it seems like cherries are the quietest of the bunch as far as horizontal's are concerned..
I asked Ponyboy about his leaf switch "adapters" for pushbuttons awhile back, but they don't work with Joysticks...
Do I have any options if I plan to stick with a Happ Competition, or is it set in stone?
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I still wonder if there are different versions of the Cherry switches. The ones that were on my Primal Rage control panel's buttons are much quieter than the ones I have from my new buttons. All of my new ones and every other cherry switch I've seen has a red plastic bit that the button hits. The quieter switches I have a clear or translucent plastic bit. It's definitely not "mute", but there is a noticible difference.
Is there a certain reason you want to stick with the Competition and not go for a P360 or leaf switch stick?
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buy Korean joystick CLW304 (http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/CWL304.htm)
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Try turning up the game volume very high and you won't hear a thing. ;D
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I just took a quick break from writing an essay, and took apart a Cherry microswitch from one of my Super Sticks.
The good news is that you can probably modify these things to attenuate the sound (by how much is unknown). Most of the noise isn't actually from the contacts coming together.
The bad news is that it looks like it's a real pain to do, and you run the risk of killing the switch completely. I'll post pics later of what I found out later if needed.
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I have an unfinished article about switches I'm working on. Here's a pic of the inside of a cherry switch from a Happ pushbutton (Happ Competition joy is the same):
(http://www.gopodular.com/support_articles/images_joys/microswitch_inside.gif)
Here's the "spring" mechanism:
(http://www.gopodular.com/support_articles/images_joys/microswitch_snappiness.gif)
Here's what's making the noise:
(http://www.gopodular.com/support_articles/images_joys/microswitch_clicking.gif)
The Supers use a different switch. I haven't pulled one of those apart, so we'll have to wait for pics from Aaron.
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It's essentially the same switch, but with an extra actuator arm on the outside that hits the little red button on the casing.. I've got one pulled apart on my desk exactly the same way yours is. If I could remember where my blasted USB cable went, I would upload my pics as well.
Anyways, the key would be to modify the spring arm to accomodate a spring that doesn't "snap". That or shorten the spring a little to make so it doesn't snap quite as much.
Actually, now that I've actually inspected the mechanism fully, getting a different type of spring in there would be pretty much impossible.... nevermind me. :-[
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Is there any type of Happ Joystick compatible microswitch that's REALLY quiet (to the point of being mute)?
...
Do I have any options if I plan to stick with a Happ Competition, or is it set in stone?
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Cherry Hall Effect switches (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/ds.htm) that fit the same as normal microswitches. I haven't tried them, but they were mentioned in this forum (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60891.0) before.
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Is there a certain reason you want to stick with the Competition and not go for a P360 or leaf switch stick?
Well besides the cost, I really like the distinct diagonals and way the Competitions roll around just smooth enough, but not too smooth to play a figgter right(for me). The only thing I'm not liking is the clicking sounds, which arent due to the joysticks themselves..
I have an unfinished article about switches I'm working on. Here's a pic of the inside of a cherry switch from a Happ pushbutton The Supers use a different switch. I haven't pulled one of those apart, so we'll have to wait for pics from Aaron.
I've got one pulled apart on my desk exactly the same way yours is. If I could remember where my blasted USB cable went, I would upload my pics as well.
Thanks a bunch for the input...that's really awesome.. I would love to see if you guys get any kind of edits done, but I've definitely been educated on the internals of the switches now, so I can see where my problem lies..
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Cherry Hall Effect switches (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/ds.htm) that fit the same as normal microswitches.
That seems really interesting... I looked at their spec sheet and I'm not exactly sure I understand totally how to work it, but it seems like the parts I need are listed and I can pull power from the Ipac-4 (for each of 8 switches??).. I might buy a set of a switch and actuator and see how it works.... Thanks!
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Sorry, I can't resist: Get Suzo Inductives.....
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why not just stick dynamat on the switches.
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why not just stick dynamat on the switches.
I actually did this a week or so ago. It made a huge difference. At the very least you want to deaden all three contacts. Using electrical tape around all three contacts, wrapping it very tightly over top of the crimp connectors several times, will deaden the sound considerably.