The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: hyperviper on March 26, 2007, 02:22:28 pm
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hi all
i have a hanterex polo 25" monitor, that was working fine along with a neo-geo cabinet, thats mame converted via ultimarc converter it can work on either mame or the neo-geo unit
the cabinet got dropped when moving house, but powered up fine, what i did notice was a couple of broken wires on the jamma edge connector.
this was replaced and i plugged it to test without plugging in the edge connector to the neo geo board.
unfortunatley it went bang and blew the psu fuse and the monitor fuse (loose 240v wires shorted out causing surge)i remade all of the 240V connections (240 volts in split at live via f5-250v fuse, then connector blocks and live/netrual/earth is split feeding 240v to cabinet psu, and 240v to monitor)
now the stupid part..... i bridged the monitor fuse and a bigger bang occured, this time burning off the track,just after the psu input jack (see pic) from what ive seen it shorted on the metal shield on the underside of the board . (wrong move i know)
now i cant decipher what it is due to it constantly blowing fuses (t3.5 250v) i tried it with the cabinet psu connected and witout the dc output to the jamma, no luck and with the cabinet psu disconnected entirley but still blows the input fuse (f5 250v) and the monitor fuse,and with all connections off the chasis eg. power connectors and signal connector
also im having some problems identifiying what parts are what, has anyone got a diagram, ive found the picture below but not everything labled
im guessing reading older threads that its the lopt thats gone, due to the fuse blowing ive checked all caps visually and it looks like none have blown....could anything have got knocked when the cabinet got dropped that would cause the initial surge?
please help!!!!
thanks in advance
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FUNDE FUSIBLE
Perdon pero no hablo ingles.
HANTAREX - POLO 28” FULL
K-2141 (T-101 IRFBC30)
1N4007 (D-107, 108, 109)
UC-3842 (IC-101)
RESIST. 1,5Ω-1/2W (R-111, 112, 113)
ZENER 18V (ZD-101)
FUSIBLE 4 AMP (F-101)
Suerte
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HEY, i'm thinking thats not a Polo in the picture. How bout an MTC9110 ?
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thats actually a mtc9000 chassis in the pic so you need to decide whether you have a polo chassis or not first.
bridging out a blown fuse is probably one the most insane things i have heard of in a long time and you have almost certainly caused more damage to the chassis
the reply from the spanish chap elfaran is a good starting point to check and i would like to add its worth checking the degauss circuit as well
but normally 9 times outta 10 a blowing fuse is down to a short power diode on the primary ac input
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scrap that what i said about it being a mtc9000,it is a very early polo chassis without any of the high voltage protection cages it threw me.
anyway that white thing looks to me as a high voltage cap-polypropylene
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yep sorry the picture isnt of mine but of a similar chassis,
an i know that bridging the fuse was insaine, have tested diodes on bridge rectifier, d103 and d104 readiong 521 d102 and 101 nothing!, well its a start...........
i will post up a propper pic of my board,
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to check diodes correctly you need to lift one side from the circuit board and use the diode test on the multimeter
most likely one of these diodes is shot,also you should remove the degauss ptc component from the chassis
and even more important,BUY SOME FUSES