Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: billd420 on March 15, 2007, 01:34:40 pm
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Hello everyone,
I'm having a hard time reading the caps on my Nanao MS9-29A chassis. They are bunched close together in a few spots, so its next to impossible to read them without removing them. As you can imagine, I dont' want to switch polarity, or the spot they go in, so removing ALL of the caps isn't really an option.
Does anybody have a cap map, cap list, cap kit, schematic or manual for the MS9? This is what my chassis looks like:
http://www.jomac.net.au/Nanao%20MS9-29A-T-SU.JPG
I can provide a better picture if that would help. I'd really like to get this done as the monitor has been sitting dis-assembled for almost a month :( I also tried emailing Jomac, but it seems all of the email addresses he listed on the website are no longer valid.
Please help!
Bill
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why do you want to change the caps,is it faulty?
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When I first power on the monitor, the colors are very washed out for about 15-20 minutes, then they level out for the most part. Also, when the colors are washed out, the verticle size is not consistent. Its almost as if the chassis needs to warm up before it operates correctly. I know there is something wrong with it as my other two nanaos don't have that issue.
Thanks!
Bill
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i have a reply to you over at killercabs,the size problem may be a dry solder joint-i had a similar fault on my ms9,the picture jumped a little then blew the horizontal deflection transistor.it was all caused by dry solder joints on the small transformer feeding the hdt
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If I were to send you a picture of the chassis, would you possibly be able to point out where I might check for bad solder joints? I'm a complete n00b when it comes to monitor work other than cap kit installs (not a n00b when it comes to solder work however).
thanks!
Bill
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yes i think i could do that,always bare in mind the bad solder joints occur almost anywhere but as a rule they tend to occur in places of heat,connectors(including the neck crt socket) and heavy or large components like transformers.
are you an arcade tech btw?
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yes i think i could do that,always bare in mind the bad solder joints occur almost anywhere but as a rule they tend to occur in places of heat,connectors(including the neck crt socket) and heavy or large components like transformers.
are you an arcade tech btw?
Hmm so is it a good idea to take some time to reflow all of the solder connections on the chassis? I'll make sure I take care of the neck CRT socket and any heavy components especially...
I am not an arcade tech, just a collector :) 1/2 of the fun for me is doing all of the maintenance myself and learning about the electronics.
Thanks for everything so far!
-Bill
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no need to resolder all the connections(you'll be doing it for hours),look at the obvious places- all connectors(voltage input/signal input/remote adjustment/yoke/frequency plugs),flyback transformer,any large components like big transistors/transformers and coils.
if you send some good pics of your chassis i will point to the area's where most problems will occur.
the cap on the neck card has caused me problems on ms8 chassis whereby when you first switch on the machine the picture is dark and gutless,this is why i suggest you change yours just in case this is causing some of your problems.
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Hey,
I left the pics un-cropped so I wouldn't miss any detail. Let me know if you need different angles:
http://www.big-bill.net/ms9/
Thank you so much!
Bill
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Sweet!!!!
Grantspain suggested replacing 2x 250v 10uF caps, and touching up the solder points outlined in these pics:
http://www.big-bill.net/astro_restore/astro_monitor_ms9-29a/solution/
I went ahead and did that, and it completely fixed all issues with my MS9-29A (faded colors when it turns on, and inconsistent vertical size). The results were amazing, good as new:
http://www.big-bill.net/astro_restore/astro_monitor_ms9-29a/
Once again, thank you Grantspain!! I'll be sure to hit you up if my other nanao's start acting up ;)
Peace!
Bill