...
Question: How are you going further with restoration ? Side and kick-art graphic files are digitaly available but would it be possible to have it printed on that same kind of vinyl ?
For me, it's still a mistery that the side and kick-art are not available anywhere. It's not the size, you can get Centipede, Asteroids everything, those are even bigger AFAIK. So why on earth no Galaxian ? Isn't this considered a classic ?? I bet there is a market for this, I know many collectors have this machine with the side-art "as is" but the collectors probably not really happy with it.
...
For the time being, I'm just going to have to *shudder* paint it white. I've got leftover green t-molding I'll use. I'll get emdkay.net or mamemarquees.com to print up a custom marquee i've designed (mostly galaxian marquee with a few modifications).. I've got an old/trashed control panel i'll use/modify.Custom marquee ?
But, like I said, I REALLY wish I had the time and/or money and/or talent to do what you're doing. Plus, I'm enjoying reading about European tvs and the like.Well, I barely have time as well. I've already got this cab since december 2006 so it's not like I did all that work in a couple of days ;) About the talent: I've seen your Invader cab, and I doubt very much I could build something like that....so You've got what it takes IMHO.....all I did so far on the woodwork is "copying" the front of the bezel :D
Keep up the great work and progress updates!!Thanks, and I sure will !
:dizzy: this is some very hardcore restoration :notworthy:
wowwwwwww you should be very happy, this is a great job you have done :cheers:
Do you plan to bondo/paint those cigarette burns or leave them there for authenticity?
Now, you can't even smoke in some bars!
and more...
Are these off or what ?
That CPO does not look good. Thanks for posting those pics, I was about to order one from Arcadeshop.Check out reply #15, there's a picture of the stuff I used.
The rest of the machine looks great, that side art is in good shape. What did you use to clean it? The texture on the vinyl seems to trap the dirt.
Actually, if it's called "Stamark Laminating Adhesive" then my guess would be that that's just the adhesive used and no so much the clear "speckled" laminate that's covering the print. BTW is it really speckled or just textured?
- April 16,1980: Serial No. #101 to #8400 (includes mine ;) ): Apparantly the machine sometimes lost credits. This modification explains to put a 100mf 10V capacitor over (one of the) coin switches. (This later caused other problems...read on) Mine didn't get this modification...
:) yeah, well I figure they put it in there from the factory from that date on. It also indicates that it only needs to be done on one coinswitch only.- April 16,1980: Serial No. #101 to #8400 (includes mine ;) ): Apparantly the machine sometimes lost credits. This modification explains to put a 100mf 10V capacitor over (one of the) coin switches. (This later caused other problems...read on) Mine didn't get this modification...
Mine has this! I was wondering wtf that was all about. I assumed that it was some attempt to make both coin slots act as though they were a single credit unit. I'll be posting pictures of my coindoor restored coin door later in the week.
-csa
MameMarquees uses a polycarbonite laminate over the vinyl for CPO graphics, which will give you a similar if not same textured look. The quality is excellent, I would recommend them to anyone.Thanks, I' posted a message on the contactform...no response so far....
(Gotta thank Arcadefever who was very helpful in forwarding me this
!!!)
After the paint had dried, I installed the T-molding:
That's brand new T-molding. Came from arcadeshop, but almost "everyone" can deliver it, like www.t-molding.com etc. I think your cab will need the Galaxian-green T-molding :) !!! (Also available).After the paint had dried, I installed the T-molding:
Now is this T-molding the original stuff you removed or did you purchase reproduction leather textured stuff? If so, from where. I'm considering going with new myself, but don't want baby butt smooth stuff. Great job on the cleanup! I'm continually amazed at how white you end up getting this thing with that cleaner!
Nice job with that sanding! Interesting that your coin door has one slot and mine has two. Did they start making the dual slot later in production do you know? How much were you quoted for that powdercoat job? When I was pricing out that stuff, they were price gauging the crap out me.Yeah, I wondered about the single slot as well. Maybe it was a European market thing ?
Keep 'em coming!
-csa
I made some pictures of the original and repro Midway Coindoor plate. The original are out of real metal. When you bend it, it stays in that shape. The repro, although on thick material is not on real metal. This also makes it less shiny then the original. The art used is clearly not vectorized. All in all, the repro's are OK, but I'd like to see a run of real metal plates with vectorized artwork, and idealy with pre-drilled holes....or am I too anal about this all :D
I also showed him the coin door, and we found a RAL color that is almost exactly (you never know from a plastic example) the same and he said he could easily recreate the "bubble" effect.
With regards to the cigarette burn marks on the bezel - I have restored a plastic bezel with exactly the same problem. I used 800 grit wet/dry sand paper, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000. I then used Meguiars plastic polish which is designed to remove the fine swirl marks from the sanding and those already there as you see in your pictures. You will be incredibly surprised by the results as they come up looking like new.
Hoops, again thanks for that great tip. I've been doing some sanding with 1200 (the only ulta-fine I could get in a hurry) and that yellow stuff (cigarette marks/melted parts) went away VERY nicely.My pleasure.. it's always great to be able to help out a fellow arcade restorer/builder :)
Hoops, again thanks for that great tip. I've been doing some sanding with 1200 (the only ulta-fine I could get in a hurry) and that yellow stuff (cigarette marks/melted parts) went away VERY nicely. So I decided to sand the entire front side. I then tried some stuff my wife uses to polish metal things in the kitchen, called Ha-Ra Multi-pasta (no not the eadible pasta, pasta=paste). I worked out pretty well. Those yellow marks are GONE ! Also the front feels smooth as a baby's skin...however, I can still see the very fine swirls made by that paste. I gotta get me that Mequires stuff, but the stupid Dutch Meguires importer is not responding to my mails.....I'll look if I can get anything simular here.Go to a car parts store and get a swirl remover polish. The Brezan where I went had 3 or 4 different ones. Maybe you need to check if it works on plastic, but I bought one to use on CDs and it worked fine.
Patrick, thanks for that tip on the Novus polish set. It's a bit expensive, but I may go for it. Not 100% sure though....for a little more I can get a brand-new repro silk-screened plexi from www.thisoldgame.com and I may be ordering more stuff from them anyway....see below.... I have to do a the complete bezel, not just a part so it will take quite a bit of this stuff to get it 100% again.Yeah, that novus kit stuff is expensive. But it contains three different polishes. You will probably need a few different ones anyway and a bottle of polish will be something like 10 or 15 euro too. Get two or three of those and your there too.
The Brezan here is very small and the guy behind the counter had glazy eyes and laughed and said it was impossible to do something like this....what stuff did you buy there exactly ?
However, take another close look......yes look very closely. There IS a mistake......Anyone see it ?The eyes of the green ship should be red?
Don;t wanna make your project even more expensive then it already is, but can't you get the manufacturers plate and/or the coin door plate from ThisOldGame too? He prints a Space Invaders CPO on aluminum.Hey Patrick....thanks for all the info about novus etc, will get back about that later.
That was EXACTLY my thought, and I've been mailing with Richard about it, at least about the Midway coin door plate. He had thought of starting a run of it, but saw that arcadeshop.com was already selling it so he let it go, since he thought they printed on metal. Since I mailed him the pics I put up here, he said he was thinking about doing it still now again.Actually, I have another midway coin door logo plate (the one with midway in the center) and that one is printed on a metallic piece. It's quite thin so it could be just some sort of foil though.
Great work !! :)Yep, that's the mistake I meant !!!
I'm sorry to say that, but I saw another mistake. The original at the score table says "CONVOY" the remake says "CONYOY" :banghead:
Great work !! :)
I'm sorry to say that, but I saw another mistake. The original at the score table says "CONVOY" the remake says "CONYOY" :banghead:
Patrick, that Coindoor plate could be NOS of course. If you bend it, and it stays in that shape, it's metal, just like the original.I'm not to sure about bending it :) I think it's too thin to stay in a shape though. It looks like an aluminum sticker with a silkscreen print on it. Probably just like ThisOldgame uses.
......he was glad I found that and corrected the mistake.Ah OK, so it was fixed before you got it.
I am not too sure about the red "eyes". It could be true, but it's hard to see. Indeed the green aliens have red "eyes" on the game screen itself but I don't mind this.Well the other two pictures you showed both have "red eyes". Anyway, it looks great. Indeed much better than the original even. I'm so jealous :P Makes me want to start on my own cab for real. I looked up the order for that coin door logo plate and I bought it in january 2004! Depressing. I'm working on a birdhouse now though ::)
Hey Patrick,Lijkt me een goed idee.
Als je zin hebt, spreken we een keertje af. Kun je in ieder geval de Galaxian alvast bespelen....de rest "moet nog even" gerestaureerd worden ;)
Your English is fine, your brain probably overlooked it because it excpeted a V there and the Y is close to that shape....I discovered it only after I saw this close-up picture !I suffer from "speed reading". I can only see whoe sentences. I think almost every human has that to an extent though.
FINISHED FILES ARE THE RESULT OF YEARS OF SCIENTIFIC STUDY COMBINED WITH THE EXPERIENCE OF YEARS
Havok, don't underestimate the Dutch, they're pretty good at English :D
RATS !!!! I found another mistake !!!! There are no dots before the instructions :'( :'(There are probably no more than 100 people on the planet that would be able to find these mistakes. You should be very proud of what you've created. Great job.
F.I. take a look at the Service Manuals they made for the classic cabs in the early 80's. They are SO detailed and extensive....What manufacturer is still investing time in documentation like that ?What would be included with a cab today ? One sheet with some very basic instructions. If it's broke, exchange it, it's cheaper.....
Mmmm, indeed, but that's also because an IBM actualy needed 10 hard cover binders to get something out it (says the Mac convert :D ;) )F.I. take a look at the Service Manuals they made for the classic cabs in the early 80's. They are SO detailed and extensive....What manufacturer is still investing time in documentation like that ?What would be included with a cab today ? One sheet with some very basic instructions. If it's broke, exchange it, it's cheaper.....
I agree - I love the documentation from "back in the day" - my uncle used to work for IBM, and when you got a computer, you got 10 hard cover binders full of documentation with each computer. Now, you're lucky to even get a "quick start" guide - usually any documentation, if included at all is on a CD...
Sigh...
I am enjoying your journal. Nice work.Hi JeepMonkey,
A couple questions for you. Did your machine have an RF filter board between the "jamma" plug and the main board? Do you have a, possably yellow, ground strap connected to your main board?
must be looking for withe ball :'(Mmmm, looks familiar ;) Nice work !!!
Gruß Oliver
I was looking on eBay the other day and found a Galaga #344 about 10 miles from my house. It made me think of your project, only this one has already been reworked.Hey Jeep,
http://cgi.ebay.com/Galaga-restored-upright-arcade-super-rare-low-344_W0QQitemZ280101995016QQihZ018QQcategoryZ13716QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
What really bothers me is the statement "Ask me how to make this into a 48 in 1"
But to the real reason I am stopping by... I see you cleaned your buttons. How many did you replace? Where did you get them? Did you try anything to make them whiter? I am currently in the process of cleaning my buttons and making them whiter, so I have let them soak in a watter/peroxide solution for a few days. They are definitely cleaner, and a little whiter. I am contemplating getting a new CPO, so I am worried about these old buttons looking even less white on a new CPO. I would like to keep the old buttons, but will replace them if they don't look right.
You've got to love it when you bring down the household power system, but don't fry your device. I've done something similar twice in my hacking career and both times the magic smoke got out, killing the project. Congratulations.
Again, stellar job on this!Thanks guys !
Did you ever get that metal screened coin door plate or the namco back plate?
-csa
3) All set for the Retrocomputer fair where I will display it next sunday !!
Can this be true ?
Are you seriously saying you didn't see it before Fozz ? :laugh:Can this be true ?
First of all.... Fantastic restoration!! you should be very proud of it. Secondly, yes! it's true, they do an almost perfect screen printed repro to go onto the coin door. They look really good too.
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
Are you seriously saying you didn't see it before Fozz ? :laugh:
If I were you I would be bugging that game store in London that has a like-new NAMCO (!) Galaxian in their store.... :D
OMG..................I found a Namco Galaxian for sale !!!!!!!!!!!!
Somebody lend me some cash.....
How do you plan on dealing with the two way joystick?Not.
Not.
I will sacrifice the 4-way and 2 button games.
I refuse to hack the brilliant original 2-way joystick. There is an alternative: get a 2nd CP and hack that.
Indeed, I already have bad feelings about mounting this kit on my current board-set. I mean, it's 100% original. Not a single chip has ever been replaced. It has the "buggy" ROM extender board and _still_ works fine.Not.
I will sacrifice the 4-way and 2 button games.
I refuse to hack the brilliant original 2-way joystick. There is an alternative: get a 2nd CP and hack that.
Yeah, I would have been suprised if you messed with that original control panel.
Don't you have several other cabs that you can play the other games on?i gotta say as well Andre i cant believe your thinking of having that galaxian in any other way but 100%.
It would be nice to have a 2nd board-set to install this kit on, and have another 100% original working board-set.
Not just for keeping it original, but there is also a plan...... and I'm sure that TwinGalaxies won't allow any high-scores with that kit installed.
i gotta say as well Andre i cant believe your thinking of having that galaxian in any other way but 100%.
i think your quest for another board is best, then you can make a panel for those extra games, shame not to be able to play scramble and the nichibitsu games.
i gotta say as well Andre i cant believe your thinking of having that galaxian in any other way but 100%.
i think your quest for another board is best, then you can make a panel for those extra games, shame not to be able to play scramble and the nichibitsu games.
I don't see a problem with adding the multi-kit. It's not like he is replacing the board with a 48-n-1. It's just an add on and the cab is still running the original board. It's not really any different to adding a high score save or freeplay mod. It can also be changed back to original at some point if needed.
i dont see a problem, i just know andre and his love for having things original :cheers:Indeed. I didn't see it as a problem either. It's curiosity.
In the set-up you can select what controls your cab has. When you set it up for a regular Galaxian cab (2-way, 1 button) it will remove all the 4-way games from the list. That's nice so players won't get frustrated by any games they select that can't be played with a 2-way stick.