Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: remakes on April 02, 2003, 12:41:10 pm
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I am going to be heading to Home Depot later on today to purchase all the wood for my cabinet. Now comes the ever popular question, what type of wood to get.
I have done a little research and have found that there are probably advantages to both. I will be going with 3/4" regardless of the type. The main issues are:
1) Cost
2) Abilitly to hold screws
3) Best for T-molding
Is the advantages with going with MDF over particle outweigh the extra cost (a little less than twice as much per board). I have worked with particle board quite a bit in the past, and have good sucess with it, but those of you who have built cabinets have appeared to lean towards MDF.
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Sorry, that should read "Particle or board OR MDF"
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MDF
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I used 5/8" particleboard on mine.. no problems at all, even got the t-molding in with no issues. You'll probably find that the MDF is more expensive.
There was a thread on this within the last week already, perhaps you should read that one?
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You could use Particle Board, but I can't think of a single property about particle board that would make it better.
There are pros and cons of choosing regular plywood over MDF, but no particle board. Bring your weight lifing belt if you are getting 3/4" MDF...
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How about plywood? That's pretty much all I ever use.
It holds screws really well, and doesn't weigh as much as MDF.
T-molding hasn't been a problem either.
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Plywood doesn't paint up as nicely as MDF.
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I used 5/8" MDF. If you don't mind shelling out a little more for MDF rather than particle board, you will be very very satisfied.
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Plywood doesn't paint up as nicely as MDF.
You're absolutely right. MDF does look pretty good when painted.
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plus patching mistakes with mdf is so easy when combined with wood putty....
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Stay away from particle board at all costs. It's far less durable than MDF. Melamine isn't all that hot either, as it is very similar to particle board inside. But it does have a nice pre-made finish.
I wouldn't use plywood unless you plan on laminating it, or you spend the extra for hardwood laminated or MDO. Otherwise it'll just be ugly.
MDF was engineered for low cost cabinetry with all the desireable properties that go with that application. In other words, it was designed for what you want to do with it :). How well your project comes out with MDF (or any material for that matter) will depend on whether your construction methods are compatible with the material.
There are lots of different pieces of hardware that are specially designed for this type of material. If you choose to take shortcuts or use hardware designed for other purposes, the quality of your project will probably suffer as a result. Most of the time, the individuals that give MDF a bad rap never really gave it a proper chance. A little research goes a long way.
RandyT
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Dont use particle board....you are going to have this cabinet (you are making from scratch) around a long time, so you should make sure it lasts over the years....
I used 3/4 MDF board for the sides of my cabinet and for the control box and used 1/2 MDF board for all other panels.
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I never have understood why everyone wants to go with 3/4 - 5/8 material anyways. I mean 1/2 with the inside corners screwed to 2x2's makes for a very stable cabinet at ALOT less weight and costs. Braced stategically, I wouldn't be afraid to use 3/8! Am I missing out on something?
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I never have understood why everyone wants to go with 3/4 - 5/8 material anyways. I mean 1/2 with the inside corners screwed to 2x2's makes for a very stable cabinet at ALOT less weight and costs. Braced stategically, I wouldn't be afraid to use 3/8! Am I missing out on something?
I think a good portion of the commercial cabs were made out of 3/4" material. This made them heavy and durable. The weight makes them more stable and less likely tip over when someone get's PO'd at the game and gives it a good kick :). The wood was also the only thing between the public and what was in the coin boxes, so that may have had a role as well. Less framing (no framing?) is required with 3/4", which means lower labor costs and quicker assembly.
The average person probably isn't worried about any of that stuff, so it might be overkill. But my personal feelings are, if it can't stand up to the abuse of the real deal it's not very authentic. I like a good solid "thump" when the side of it is slapped, rather than a hollow wooden drum sound :) .
RandyT
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plus I only had 3/4" mdf has a choice.
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I never have understood why everyone wants to go with 3/4 - 5/8 material anyways. I mean 1/2 with the inside corners screwed to 2x2's makes for a very stable cabinet at ALOT less weight and costs. Braced stategically, I wouldn't be afraid to use 3/8! Am I missing out on something?
I kinda like the appearance - the thicker material looks "beefier".
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Well, I decided to go with 3/4" MDF (that thing is going to weigh a TON, but it will last me a long time). I already have most of it drawn out on the board, and should start cutting tomorrow. So far, so good.
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I used "Ultralight" MDF. It does cost more then standard MDF but well worth it. Its 30% lighter then standard MDF. Considering that it takes at least two 4 x 8 sheets to build a cabinet 30% is ALOT of unwanted weight shaved off your project. My cab is pretty big and is still very and I can't imagine how heavy it would have been if I hadn't used ultralight :P I have casters on my cab but they don't help when I'm humping the thing up and down stairs. I've moved twice in the past year. All of which were 2nd floor condo's so I could kiss myself for spending the extra money for the light stuff.
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Well, I decided to go with 3/4" MDF (that thing is going to weigh a TON, but it will last me a long time). I already have most of it drawn out on the board, and should start cutting tomorrow. So far, so good.
make sure you put a good coat of primer on
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Got it all cut out today and started sanding a bit. I will finish that tomorrow, and start looking for paint. I believe I will go with a black (yea, I know it's boring, but it will match everything else in my room) with T-molding. Does anyone know where to get the bit that's used for T-molding?
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Got it all cut out today and started sanding a bit. I will finish that tomorrow, and start looking for paint. I believe I will go with a black (yea, I know it's boring, but it will match everything else in my room) with T-molding. Does anyone know where to get the bit that's used for T-molding?
I hate to be one of those guys that says "do a search on the forum", but you should do one :).
There was a pretty informative thread not too long ago that listed a number of good and inexpensive sources for what you seek.
RandyT
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Sorry, that should read "Particle or board OR MDF"
Hehe, modified it for you, just hit the modify button of the first post, you can change the title.
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Got it all cut out today and started sanding a bit. I will finish that tomorrow, and start looking for paint. I believe I will go with a black (yea, I know it's boring, but it will match everything else in my room) with T-molding. Does anyone know where to get the bit that's used for T-molding?
http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html#Anchor
you want #301
(http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics/slotct3w.jpg)
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Got the majority of the pieces sanded and am in the process of making sure everything is going to fit right, and should start the assembly probably Monday. I went and bought some semi-gloss black paint as well as some primer. Coming along nicely! :)