Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: edge on January 07, 2007, 07:51:35 pm
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Here's the situation:
- I made a control panel with 3/4" MDF.
- I covered it with 1/8" lexan.
- I used 3/4" yellow t-molding on the rest of my cab.
How should I install the t-molding on the control panel?
- Install the t-molding just like the rest of the cab (with router slot at center of MDF)? This will leave the lexan popping out over the tmolding.
- Use the same 3/4" t-molding, but offset the router so that the t-molding is flush with the top of the lexan?
- I tried to find oversized 7/8" t-molding, but only found it in black. :(
I attached a pic to help you visualize. :)
Thanks for the help.
Edge
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You ready for this answer?
Go buy 5/8th plywood and remake your control panel...
Yeah, I didn't think you'd like it. I had to do it. In fact, here is a picture as proof:
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pIjpkUX-8gH9I-dsraz2sMyLw8cIOls7YicWc6tPetcorYGyCH6PUQ83USmxh6fx4927PUy6z-zhxrtz2unGWoTDgxEgJmK2SJ7aL5W-CJhc)
I wanted my plexi and control panel to be covered by a peice of 3/4" t-molding. I ended up having to buy a whole sheet of plywood just for that. I used the whole sheet eventually making supports and other odds and ends for another cab.
Another option is just make the t-mold fit the control panel and use a chamfer bit to create a 45 degree angle on the plexi. I did this with my last control panel and it looks pretty good. Here is a picture of the 45 degree plexi:
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pIjpkUX-8gH9I-dsraz2sM0n-tmQeRIsYU1BO47Mt8zBoLIlwfslHrcb3FyAT3LuLgKGzSiRlCbDaCuH7VYJ27CBmWkr0ULqysOh2ZLsmycA)
Either way, let us know what your gonna do. :)
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I think leapinlew's recommendation will probably produce the best results, however if you don't want to redo the control panel, you might also consider simply cutting the lexan so it sits back from the edge by a quarter-inch or so, so it doesn't look like it's supposed to be covered by the t-molding.
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While the yellow t-mold will look the best, black wouldn't be back either...
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Thanks, leapinlew, for the super fast response.
Go buy 5/8th plywood and remake your control panel...
Ugh. I think that will my last resort. I hope I can avoid that route.
Another option is just make the t-mold fit the control panel and use a chamfer bit to create a 45 degree angle on the plexi. I did this with my last control panel and it looks pretty good.
Do you have a closeup of the plexi cut like this? Does that make it a bit gentler to the touch to reduce scraping?
In that same way of thinking, what do you think about using a quarter round bit and routing the bottom front-edge of the control panel? This would visually reduce the visible wood in the front of the control panel (so all you see if t-molding)?
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I am in the same boat - first cab so I didn't know better. Amazing all of the details that really are involved in making a quality cab. I will be doing the same as Lew - chafering the Lexan 45 degrees. I actually think it will end up looking pretty good.
Another option that you do have is to route the T-Molding down the center of the 3/4" MDF and then take it to be planed down 1/8" - making it 5/8. When done, your T-molding should cover the Lexan fine. Let us know. Cheers.
Ray
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Another option is just make the t-mold fit the control panel and use a chamfer bit to create a 45 degree angle on the plexi. I did this with my last control panel and it looks pretty good.
Or you could offset the molding on the wood and angle cut the bottom of the wood.
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Here is the only other image I have. It's around the trackball:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=61814.0;attach=64389;image)
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Another option is just make the t-mold fit the control panel and use a chamfer bit to create a 45 degree angle on the plexi. I did this with my last control panel and it looks pretty good.
Or you could offset the molding on the wood and angle cut the bottom of the wood.
Would this be the type of chamfer bit you guys are referring to? See here (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2124). The 45 degree one?
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Another option is just make the t-mold fit the control panel and use a chamfer bit to create a 45 degree angle on the plexi. I did this with my last control panel and it looks pretty good.
Or you could offset the molding on the wood and angle cut the bottom of the wood.
Yeah! That would work pretty good too - if you painted it black it would probably almost disappear.
The main thing is to make sure you do some practice cuts. It took me a few practice cuts before I found the mark.
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Yeah... thats it. I've had good luck ordering from MLCS
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_chamf.html (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_chamf.html)
Make sure you get the right shank size!
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I was in the same boat, so, I made my t groove a little higher (not much though) and I used a 1/8 round over router bit around the edge of the plexi. I then took a lot of time with fine grit sand paper, dremil w the buffing wheel, buffing pads, buffing compound, and novus 2. Now I have a almost lens like optical appearance. The t-molding covers up just a little of the plexi just before it starts to slope towards the top.
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Yeah... thats it. I've had good luck ordering from MLCS
Thanks! MLCS has better prices, I see. :)
Make sure you get the right shank size!
I feel inadequate. I only have a 1/4" shank. :-[ hehe. Any suggestion on "cutting length"? (wow - thank god my wife is not reading this)
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Check this page out and see if that what you want.
https://www2.archpro.com/cgi-bin/worderc?confc=B2C&s=105-650-*&source=catalog
Scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page to the last color.
Encryptor
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Here's the situation:
- I made a control panel with 3/4" MDF.
- I covered it with 1/8" lexan.
- I used 3/4" yellow t-molding on the rest of my cab.
How should I install the t-molding on the control panel?
- Install the t-molding just like the rest of the cab (with router slot at center of MDF)? This will leave the lexan popping out over the tmolding.
- Use the same 3/4" t-molding, but offset the router so that the t-molding is flush with the top of the lexan?
- I tried to find oversized 7/8" t-molding, but only found it in black. :(
I attached a pic to help you visualize. :)
Thanks for the help.
Edge
Can always sand or plane 1/8 off the MDF ;D
I am also making a 3/4 MDF cabinet and plan to get a 5/8 MDF board and 1/8 plexi for the control panel using all 3/4 t-molding. As already suggested, just do it right and remake the control panel.
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Can always sand or plane 1/8 off the MDF ;D
That would be my first shot. it would definitely look the best, and you wouldn't have to remake your panel.
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you might do what Knievel does with his panels ...he uses the chamfer bit on the bottom of his panel and offsets the groove for the t-molding so when the plexi is on the panel and the t-molding is in place the plexi and the top look like they were meant to go like that your not going to be able to tell that it doesn't because it is on the bottom that you did your chamfer cut.....hiding it in plane site
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Thank you, everyone, for the helpful feedback.
I am going to try to order some of that 7/8" yellow t-molding that Encryptor mentioned. If the colors match, this is definitely the easiest route.
If that doesn't work, then I will try the "chamfer" option many of you mentioned. I will chamfer the bottom of my panel (with a 45 degree bit) and offset the t-molding groove (+1/8 inch). That will put the top of the tmolding flush with the lexan.
If that doesn't work, I am going to send my Visio plans and a sheet of 5/8" plywood to leapinlew. He does such nice work... :cheers:
(I will post pictures in my project announcement when done.)
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Update:
The vendor only sells that 7/8" Yellow T-Molding in 250 foot coils. :'(
Looks like I need to learn how to chamfer.
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I was told today from the lcoal wood shop that you can't plane MDF. Is that true?