Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: rdowdy95 on December 11, 2006, 06:24:54 pm
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Hey guys,
I am going to have a wood control panel. 3/4" thick birch ply. No plexi on top or anything like that. I can't decide if I want to do carriage bolts throught the top (they will be seen) or if I just use wood screws from the bottom. I can't make my mind up. I don't mind them being there I just want to make sure they wouldn't hurt my hands or anything. They woulds't flush in the wood, but just laying on the top of the wood.
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I got my carriage bolts from divemaster127 through the B/S/T forum. They are black an, basically, smooth on top which is not necessarily an easy combination to find.
I do not think they'll hurt your hands.
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I have the carriage bolts if you need just send me a pm
thanks
dm
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I just ordered 100 black carriage bolts from my local "Fastenal" for $8 (IIR)
http://www.fastenal.com/
Cheers,
Craig
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for my cp i was going to drill a hole for the bolt from the top and place it in enough that i could cover the top with wood putty and sand. then i could bolt on from the bottom.
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I just ordered 100 black carriage bolts from my local "Fastenal" for $8 (IIR)
http://www.fastenal.com/
Cheers,
Craig
Looks like they only have galvanized, plain or zinc. Divemaster has black, and I have some from him - they look great...
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Thanks guys I will PM DiveMaster!
One more question. What do you guys think is better. Mouting the joystick base to where it is more vertical or more horizontal. You know what I mean? Like make the bolts longer up and down, or the sideways action. Or does it just depend on your own control panel spacing.
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Thanks guys I will PM DiveMaster!
One more question. What do you guys think is better. Mouting the joystick base to where it is more vertical or more horizontal. You know what I mean? Like make the bolts longer up and down, or the sideways action. Or does it just depend on your own control panel spacing.
Doesn't matter... Just don't mount them diagnonal
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If you are working from scratch, do what works for you. You'll wire the switches appropiately either way.
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It doesn't matter which orientation you mount the joystick UNLESS you have one like a 49-way or a perfect 360 (and maybe others). In those cases, it can still be mounted in any orientation, but you'll have to adjust which wire goes where because it's 'set' as to what direction is 'up' 'down' 'right' and 'left'
In any case, it's not a big deal. I mounted the perfect 360s in my cocktail cab 'sideways'. I just had to figure out which terminals to attach which wires to since the R, L, U, D markings were no longer correct.
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This question is along the same topic. I am a newb at building machines, but i have been reading the forums, and looking at projects
I put together a mock cp. (I think the plywood i used was thin) and i had problems with the joypad ripping out of the cp when mounted from the bottom. When i build a new one i would like to make sure this is not a problem what should i be looking for when i build it. I think i would like to have the joysticks mounted from the bottom, and ill probably cut them into the wood for a better fit. I do not want any screws to be viewable from the top. What do i have to do to make sure these do not rip out of the bottom from excessive play.
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Steve what you will want to do then is mount from the bottom. Cut your joystick holes then center the base of the joysticks on the underneath side of your base on the bottom of the hole. Trace around the joystick base and rout 1/4" deep inside the traceable area. Then it will add some more support. Then use washers and 1/2" wood screws. That will give you a nice clean look from above. I am going with the carriage bolts from above for extra support. I got some friends that really will give the sticks a workout!
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Should i use 3/4" MDF, Should i predrill the holes?
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The Project Arcade book uses 3/4" MDF. But use what you want. MDF is usually the way to go. I used Birch Ply for the wood grain look. As far as predrilling the holes for the control panel I would wait till you are ready to put your sticks in. Just drill the button holes and joystick holes.
Did you order Saint's book yet. It will have a good way to go about it for the beginner. It is what I used, then I came here asking questions and so forth.
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Steve I would use the Birch plywood over the MDF for strength and durablity. MDF Is OK but the original arade cabinets were not made of MDF.
A 2' by 4' handy panel at a Hardware store is only a couple of bucks more than the alternative.
By the way My first CP I made out of MDF is cupping or warping from use and abuse we thrash it pretty hard on fighting games.
But ones I've made since about 9 now haven't warped at all.
Just my two cents.
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well i was planning on using the mdf and putting Plexiglas on top. should i put this plywood in the middle? i do not want to have the panel too thick.
and yes i do have the book. I have started reading threw it.
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I just ordered 100 black carriage bolts from my local "Fastenal" for $8 (IIR)
http://www.fastenal.com/
Cheers,
Craig
Looks like they only have galvanized, plain or zinc. Divemaster has black, and I have some from him - they look great...
I have a bag of 200 black carriage bolts from them
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MDF Is OK but the original arade cabinets were not made of MDF.
What do you mean original arcade cabinets were not made of MDF? Both my Bad Dudes cabinet and my Dynamo cabinet are MDF...and the Bad Dudes cabinet is from around 1986-87...is that original?
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Frizzle
The 70's and 80's cabinets were made of MDO not MDF, MDO looks more like chip board on the edge.
The bases or bottom shelves were made of plywood.
This is due to MDF's tendency to strip and not hold screws as well as plywood.