The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: needlesmcgirk on November 25, 2006, 10:54:55 am
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Hey, I've got my cabinet all cut out and the control panel finished, and its ready to be assembled, but I know I need something to cover the edges like T-mold and I want to know what you all suggest.
Is t-mold the way to go or there any good alternatives that you recommend? Also, I couldn't find t-mold at Lowes or Home Depot, so where is a good place to get it? Thanks so much!
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I personally think t-molding is the best option for most cabs. Although it really does depend on what you are making or are after. You could prime and paint the edge, laminate, or maybe use a roundover bit (router) to make a rounded corner. Unless you have a solid wood panel, not mdf or plywood, the last option would be nice. T molding is not only for decoration but also to protect that edge from damage.
Make sure if you order your t molding you order enough from that vendor. Some, although marked, the same can be slightly different or even vary in size. Most will probably be 3/4 inch. I bought my t molding from a vendor on eBay. Here is something similar.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BLACK-SMOOTH-T-MOLDING-3-4-X-1-FOOT_W0QQitemZ150052939809QQihZ005QQcategoryZ13718QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/BLACK-SMOOTH-T-MOLDING-3-4-X-1-FOOT_W0QQitemZ150052939809QQihZ005QQcategoryZ13718QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem)
I think in Saints book he has a web address for t-molding.com I cant remember right now. They have a good selection as well.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=40140.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=40140.0)
Here is a good topic on how to route the groove and install t-molding.
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Believe it or not... www.t-molding.com . That's where I got mine and there are many styles/colors to choose from.
You'll need a slot-cutter bit for your router if you don't already have one...you can get them at t-molding.com as well. I really think it's the best way to give your cabinet a finished and professional look.
Good luck!
Darren
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I tried to ask a t-molding related question in the main forum and it quickly got derailed into a discussion over the angle of my monitor. Maybe I can ask it here with better results...
I am trying to put together a cabnet with a laid back style monitor and because I am forced to live in a house with cats, that seem to enjoy knocking stuff onto the floor (or whatever) and needed to protect the CRT.
My plan was to cut a channel in the sides to set in a piece of 1/4" lexan (across the screen area) and try to hold it in place with T-Molding.
I just wanted to know if T-Molding has any holding power and/or if it is removable?
Here is a picture of what I was working on...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=60389.0;attach=61767;image)
The plan was to cut the sides level (or just slightly higher) with the sides of the bezel. Just enough to accommodate the Laxan.
As a result of the discussion in my thread, I am now considering moving the monitor slightly more 'upright' to avoid glare and neckaches. But my question about T-Molding goes unanswered.
Anybody?
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T-molding really doesn't have any "holding power" as you put it. To get basic, you cut your slot and either press or pound it in with a rubber mallet. The main purpose for t-molding is to protect the edge of the wood from damage and to be aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
I cant really tell what you are trying to do in the picture. Is the red outline where you are wanting to cut? What is the green line?
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Go with the t-molding - you'll be glad you did. Almost every arcade game used it and since your going through the trouble to build an arcade, take one of the last critical steps. You'll want to be careful since you already have the cabinet put together that a screw or bolt isn't in the way ofyour t-molding track.
I agree with flyguy1821 - no holding power with t-molding, but at the angle that monitor is laying - gravity should be enough.
Your right to move that monitor up at an angle a bit. Check out some arcades you remember playing and see how they are angled.
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I agree with flyguy1821 - no holding power with t-molding, but at the angle that monitor is laying - gravity should be enough.
This brings up a good question, are you trying to use the t-molding to hold down the lexan or are you wanting to lay the lexan over the t-molding?
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You'll want to be careful since you already have the cabinet put together that a screw or bolt isn't in the way ofyour t-molding track.
Also, make sure the surface is completely flat (i.e. all screws are sunk below the surface) for when you run the router along the edge. If there is a bump it will throw off your router's path and mess up the cut.
I vote for t-molding 100% of the time. To me it is the finishing touches that make a cab look great and I just don't like painted or rounded over edges on arcade cabinets. That's just me though...
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Wow, thanks for all the replies!
The red lines are where I was going to cut the sides, have since modifyied this plan slightly. (Going a little more upright) Green line is where the CP outline was going to be.
The new monitor alignment is very similar to a TMNT/Simpson style cab. I still wish to cover the CRT with Lexan, and still plan to do the 'ledge' thing by notching out the inside edges of the side panels. I wanted to use the t-molding to keep the lexan in place and cover up the edges.
However, this brings up another issue . . .
Will a laid back monitor collect more dust and thus require more frequent cleanings?
If this is the case, I'd need to remove the lexan to wipe off the monitor. I doubt T-molding will accept repeated removal over the years?
Maybe a method to drop the monitor a little for cleaning . . .
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Not trying to hijack your thread but I have a similar question. I already decided on doing t-molding but I was just going to cover the front of the case and leave the back parts alone. But it seems some people t-mold the entire side panels. Which is the most common method?
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T-molding really doesn't have any "holding power" as you put it. To get basic, you cut your slot and either press or pound it in with a rubber mallet.
It would seem that if you need to pound it in, that it would have some holding power, wouldn't it? (honestly not sure, I have T-molding, but have yet to install any...)
Perhaps you could intentionally cut a slightly thinner groove so that it would have more holding power.
Either way, I'd bet that frequent removals, or even a couple removals would loosen up the slot and reduce the holding power.
Rick