Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Jim Persoleo on April 03, 2002, 02:37:36 pm
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How do you switch between the 2 modes?
Easy way to wire something up to a toggle switch?
Just don't want to be cracking open the panel everytime I want to play a 4-way game.
Also anyone know the Radio Shack alternative for the Fry's female crimp-connects that Webb used in his cab? http://www.webbpickersgill.com/mame/
Something that you know fits the Happ pushbuttons and sticks?
No Fry's in my area and the online version has nothing close.
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Switching is accomplished via turning over the actuator on the underside of the joystick. Yes, you'll have to open your cp to do this.
You want .187" quick-diconnects, I think. I've heard Radio Shack sells them, among others
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Quickdisconnects were my first thought but I'm not sure if the female ends fit on the Happ stuff.
If so I'd still be wasting all the male ends unless you can get all-female or all-male boxes of 'em.
Must avoid soldering if at all possible.
Not sure if I'm more afraid of what I might do to my I-PAC / Opti-Pac or my cats =)
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Definitely not a quick switchover. You have to open your CP, pry the e-ring off the bottom of the stick, remove the actuator, flip it over, force the e-ring back on. :P You'll want to add a dedicated 4-way to your CP somewhere. Trust me, it seems unnecessary at first, but after you get your controls hooked up, you'll understand why. Most put it between the two 8-ways, or on a separate CP.
The .187 disconnects fit exactly. They are usually available in all female packages. I picked up 100 of them from http://www.therealbobroberts.com with my control order. Used every one of them (with a few mistakes here and there.) You definitely don't want to be soldering your connections, much slower and messier to fix wiring problems!
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It is the female ones you want. You can go to http://www.radioshack.com and type 910-1775 into the search box to get to the fully insulated ones.
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Thanks for the info guys. I saw quick disconnects on the Happ site and bought a few figuring they were compatible. But I realize I didn't get enuff and will hit up the shack tonite since they are cheaper.
I went with the non-switchable ones. But I decided to add a 4-way stick the the secondary control panel.
Putting together a 4-player panel with 8button each (mmm April 15th 56connect I-PAC) and then a secondary control panel with at least 1 trackball and spinner and now the 4-way stick with a few buttons.
Also thinking of coming up with a way to hack a Tron-like trigger stick to a regular stick. Maybe put a headphone jack-like thing in the panel and plug in the trigger and finding a stick that will fit over a Happ Competition stick.
Main Issue is currrently finding someone to help with cabinet design. It will have to support a 115lb 32" TV. Control Panels will be separate from the video. Alo thinking of a shelf w/ door for the VCR and maybe a little storage underneath. This all grew out of my need for a new TV and accessories + love of whupping butt in any MK games/NFL Blitz.
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Yup....I'm also waiting for the new Ipac!
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Also thinking of coming up with a way to hack a Tron-like trigger stick to a regular stick. Maybe put a headphone jack-like thing in the panel and plug in the trigger and finding a stick that will fit over a Happ Competition stick.
It's been done. Check it out http://www.oscarcontrols.com/projects/triggerstick.shtml
I used some 12 inch long strong aluminum tubing (13/32" diameter, I think) from a hobby shop instead of the nutdriver shaft, and an Interact RaiderPro translucent blue stick for the grip (not quite a Tron stick, but as close as you can get). The nice thing is that the wires are concealed inside the shaft so everything looks professional. I also put a nail thru the spacer around the shaft and cut a slot into the shaft-hole in the joystick base so that the stick won't rotate. I can still pull the stick out and use a regular Super handle if I want.