Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: ifkz on October 03, 2006, 10:23:34 am
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I'm in the process of repairing my Centipede cab. I've sanded the sides of the cabinet down to get rid of water damaged particle board. I was thinking of spreading some wood putty on the sides to fill in some of the shallow areas, let it dry, sand it, prime it with Kilz, and them paint it. I saw another Centipede restoration that used automotive bondo on the corners, and now I'm wondering if I should use that instead. Any ideas???
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Wood filler is generally only good for small applications like filling a countersunk hole, etc. When you want to repair anything larger, bondo or the equivalent is a better way to go. Filler is like dried dust almost. The caveat is that not everything can be filled by either item. Sometimes the damage is just too severe for either method.
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get a high build primer from a specialty paint store...
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I was under the impression that Bondo was much stronger than wood filler. I used Bondo with good results on the corners of a my MAME cab. It was so busted up, I had to use cardboard to form a template for the filler. The edges turned out crisp and straight, and the repair is invisible after paint.
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_side2chip2.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_side2bondocorner.jpg)
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Bondo. Wood filler tends to shrink and crack if used on large areas. Bondo won't do that.
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Everytime I've used wood putty, paint tends to be sucked up by it making a flat spot on my nice glossy finish. And I've tired 4-5 coats with the same result. I could be using the wrong paint :dunno.
Bondo doesn't do that regardless of paint choice. Love bondo.
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Thanks for the help. The woodputty was taken back and now I have a large can of bondo to help with my cab. And, I will certainly need the help. There are large chuncks missing (but this replacement cab has side art under the paint!!!), including a large hole the size of a fist on the front.
What is the best way to fix this? I was thinking a combination of wax paper, paint sticks and scrap wood to fill in the larger spots (and build molds for the corners). What is the best way to make a groove for the t-molding?
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once you build it back up with bondo you can just route the grooves for t-molding right into the bondo. Just did that on mine last weekend, worked fine.
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Everytime I've used wood putty, paint tends to be sucked up by it making a flat spot on my nice glossy finish. And I've tired 4-5 coats with the same result. I could be using the wrong paint :dunno.
Did you prime it?
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Everytime I've used wood putty, paint tends to be sucked up by it making a flat spot on my nice glossy finish. And I've tired 4-5 coats with the same result. I could be using the wrong paint :dunno.
Did you prime it?
Yep. Have tried Killz and at least two other types of primer (forgot the names). Like I said, could easily be using the wrong paint. But lately I use bondo and it works so much better for me.
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Kilz is a great primer. I use it on all kinds of things.
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How do you make a mold for Bondo? The stuff sticks to everything.
Michael
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Great idea on the cardboard to make a mold for the bondo. Tomorrow I am picking up a used cab that I got locally. It is not in terrible condition, but does need some work. The top of the cab has a crack on both sides, and the bottom at the rear (both sides looks like it can use a bit of reconditioning as well. So am I going to want to lay down the Killz with a spray gun, or roller? The guy was about to tare out the current electronics to tun it into a Golden Tee machine. It is originally a Punisher unit. I didn't take the 25" monitor for it for now, that will need to wait for a few months or so possibly. I do have a 21" flat screen TV or a 19" Viewsonic A90 monitor to mount in there for now.
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How do you make a mold for Bondo? The stuff sticks to everything.
Cover the cardboard in brown packing tape! the bondo won't stick to that.
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
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In all reality, you really don't want to mold bondo. You'll get bubbles and all kinds of things.. just build up the area in 2/3 applications and sand it back into shape. You'll spend more time futzing with a mold than just building it up..
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This is where I am at right now on my build. That cardboard idea worked a treat! I am really happy with it so far. I am just building it up right now and will just sand it close inbetween layers to get it closer and closer. I have tried corogulated cardboard, but I am finding it is easier to use a nice dixie paper plate that the lip was cut off of. It makes the curves nicer. None the less, This repair has been goin much easier since I found this tread. I almost went to use spackel, glad I took the advice here.