Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Potts on October 02, 2006, 08:21:15 am
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Hey All,
Well I have started my third cabinet. It's my son 2nd birthday coming up so I have decided to join the Miniarcade banwagon. I do love the PacMan design but I decided to go with a different theme and squeeze in 2 player.
Here are some basic specs -
- Will run Mame with a limited selection of basic games (which will ofcourse include Streetfighter for when he is older)
- Dimentions 450mm Wide, 1100mm high
- 19 Inch LCD screen (it will have a 2-3 cm bevel around LCD)
- 2 x joysticks with 6 buttons, 1 and 2 Player buttons, plus an extra 2 black buttons for config etc
- I will install a 2 player (Small) Happ Coin door which will take all coins - so this beast becomes a money box which hopefully doesn't get raided before his 18th hehehe
- Nintendo theme for colours and side art
- I want to install a large bass speaker for kicking audio
- Rotating controller so I can access the keyboard (with intigrated mouse)
There are a few things I would like you guys to help me with ;D
1) I am trying to work out how to get the control panel done with a sheet of stainless steel. I loved what 'JamieMcShan' did with the metal controller
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55811.40
Anyone have any suggestions of how I can get mine made - could I do it ?? See 3D image of what I am after.
2) I need to know if I could use car audio equipment in my cabinet. What involved with the power supply (12 volt etc)
I would like to do this for a following reasons, 1) you get awesome sound at a great price, 2) there is a large range of mini speakers out there that I could install above the screen 3) I can buy a huge bass and make the entire cabinet a subwoofer bass box (for intense SF craziness) 4) The speakers are made to look cool
ALso see the first WIPS of the cabinet and some very quick 3D renders I did to get an idea of scale and design etc
Any feedback would be helpful :)
Cheers
Potts
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Some more images but this time with the screen Upright - I think I will be doing this
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I like the upright screen too.
MarkVP built a mini-pacman that turned out great. You should do a search and find it. One feature that he did that was a great idea was instead of a coin door, he made the bottom part storage. Also, instead of a monitor, you could make a TV and it could serve as his entertainment center.
The renders look great. I look forward to seeing your project being built - take lots of pics.
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Personally, I would dump the SF idea and just go with 3 buttons per side. My daughter is 2, I know how long it's going to be before she could play a game like that. Keep it simple, he'll have a lot more fun with it that way for years. Just MHO.
Also, having a 2 year old, I would move all the admin buttons to somewhere a little less likely to get messed with during a game, potentially exiting or something.
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I love the design so far except I kind of agree with Aurich regarding the buttons. I also have a 2 year-old daughter and I'm also planning to build her a mini-mame cab (it's the thing to do I guess!) but I'm not even thinking about more than 3 action buttons because I know it will be years before she is able to play something more complicated.
I'm actually thinking about making it a vertical cabinet only and only putting about 30 or so of the classics on there...
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I would dump the SF idea and just go with 3 buttons per side
Well lets be honest here - I do plan on playing it myself. I am very keen on doing 2 x Player as I hope little Ruben will continue to play it throughout his childhood and I hope even more I can play against him. I will stick with the design and let you all know how it goes.
only putting about 30 or so of the classics on there
Yeah I will do the same - dig dug, pengo, rock'n'rope, mario bros, wonderboy, tetris, bubble bobble, games like that
Thanks for your ideas guy
cheers
Potts
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I have put together Ruben's Side and Marquee Art. What do you all think ?
Build Progress photo's to follow :)
Potts
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I have almost finished the cabinet wood part of the build, next is the control panel, then fitting the LCD, then installing the coin door.
I have decided to take the previous advice and I will only be installing 2 buttons per player, but I will still have the holes for future upgrade and these will be filled in with Button Plugs.
cheers
Potts
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Well done so far love the art work nice little touches like dadtendo and naming the characters as family members. :cheers:
keep the pics coming
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I'm building a similar style cab presently. Here's how I plan to encorporate the keyboard. The rotating thing seems more complex, maybe this idea will be good for you as well: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=59170.0;attach=59353;image
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I would advise against any design that permanently installs a keyboard (hidden, rotating, or otherwise.) While they may have the coolness factor to show to your friends, they introduce more points of failure, are less sturdy, more work, and are rarely used. I had my first cab for around 2.5 years. I configured as much as I could before mounting the machine into the cab. Then, for the remaining 15-20 times (total over 2.5 years) I needed to do maintenance, I put a keyboard down on a barstool, and plugged it into a USB port I mounted on the back panel. I stored the keyboard in the back when not in use. This gave me a rock solid CP, less things to go wrong, and a more authentic looking machine. For what it's worth...
What thickness wood did you use on the top?
Looks great so far.
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I only have a week to finish the cab (Ruben's Birthday on Sunday) - so I am madly building the Mini Arcade
Here are some shots of my recent progress -
I set up a spray booth chamber in my shed. Here are some points you guys might be interested in -
1, Compressor cost $100 ($75US) plus another $40 ($30US) for a Spray Gun.
2, I bought the cheapest compressor available - but it work a charm, easy to use, with a good result
3, I sprayed an under coat of Primer before the black coat - recommended with spraying onto MDF.
4, I used Arcrilic water based paint, I had to waterdown the paint quite a bit for it to flow evenly, in the end I worked out that if I added approx 200mils per Litre that gave a nice even spray flow
5, When I started I had the PSI at full - which gave a smooth result but this meant massive overspray - airborn spray particle were everywhere, and would escape out of any gap. Turning the pressure down to around 50PSI worked a lot better.
6, From what I can tell is that the more expensive compressors only mean you have longer spray times without the compressor engine kicking in to refill the tank. With the small tank I purchased I could hold the gun depressed for about 30 seconds before the engine kicked back in, this just means a lot of noise more regularly.
7, The whole home spray method was a lot more easy then what I thought it would be and I will be doing it again for sure in the future - give it a go
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Here are some picts of the stainless steel control panel - and the cabinet prior to spray painting
cheers,
Potts
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GO MAN GO!
and DO NOT be one of those guys who forgets to take pictures and when you eventually do take pictures it's of a finished project - that we will all acuse you of not building! ;)
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Talk to us about the CP.
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Talk to us about the CP.
What you wanna know ?
mmm - I will be using the X-Arcade DIY kit together with some Happ controls and pushbottons. I plan on having a rotating CP to reveal a keyboard. It's actually a basic design which spins on a bolt drilled half way into the sides of the walls (I will have to send photo's).
Note - It will be finished soon so I will post some picts and give more details.
cheers,
Potts
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Man that is AWESOME... those 3d models are excellent!
I wish I could use 3d programs like that..
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Talk to us about the CP.
What you wanna know ?
Did you buy it? Have a local metal shop bend it? How will it attach?
Also, I am still interested in how thick the wood is on the top surface. It looks like it is bent to the top contour?
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:cheers: keep going !!!
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Nice looking cab! :applaud:
As theCoder I'm also interested in that metal CP. Maybe for a next CP on my cab. Working with wood ok, but with metal is a complete other story.
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Nice looking project -- I really like the metal CP and the way the whole machine "feels".
Ruben is a lucky boy ... my kids aren't getting their own cabinet until they're 7 ....
Cheers
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Awesome!!! I am very curious about your paint job. It looks like it came out nice and even from the sprayer. Did you hold the gun horizontally the entire time or were you able to hold it at various angles to paint the top panel and the interior? How many coats did you put on there? Did you sand between each (if so what grit sandpaper did you use)? How did the "tent" work? Did it keep dust and other random particles from settling on the wet paint? Are you planning on sealing the cabinet after it is painted to "kid proof" it?
Sorry for all the questions!
Keep on going!!! :cheers:
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I'm interested in how the metal CP was done as well.
Awesome project! :cheers:
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Did you buy it? Have a local metal shop bend it?
Yep - a neighbour of mine cut a spare sheet of stainless steel to a measurments and I got it folded at a local metal shop for approx $20 US.
How will it attach?
I will send photos - to hard to explain
It looks like it is bent to the top contour?
I used 7mm ply wood to curve and screw down, I then lay a 3mm sheet on top to cover the screw and leave a nice surface to spray. This is nothing compared to my last cabinet - which has massive curves everywhere
check it out - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55917.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55917.0)
Did you hold the gun horizontally the entire time or were you able to hold it at various angles to paint the top panel and the interior?
Good question - it works best horizontal but I was still able to spray the inside roof without hassles.
How many coats did you put on there?
I put 2 coats of undercoat (because it was a bit patchy - i.e first attempt) and 2 coats of black.
Did you sand between each (if so what grit sandpaper did you use)?
No - it is by no means anywhere near the quality of my professionally painted previous cabinet (see above link) as they used a professional spray painting oven booth and used car 2pak paint. That said after using this setup I believe if I used the correct quality paint and took some time to sand between coats I could get it fairly close to that quality. For this job it's only for the interior, top and back so it's totally cool and I am very happy that it worked out.
How did the "tent" work?
Well it kinda worked - you have to do this kind of setup because if you don't paint particles will go everywhere. In the future I will take more time to seal all holes and make an easy access door or flap to get in and out. So it worked but I will be taking more time next time for setup - also make sure you have room to move around, my space was tiny.
Are you planning on sealing the cabinet after it is painted to "kid proof" it?
I have side art printed from mamemarquees.com and that is washable.
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I thought I might share a really bad customer service experience I had with Happ controls today. :angry:
I ordered a coindoor, some buttons, a few heavy duty wheels, and 2 mounting plates. I proceeded through the order to the point where it says - do you mind splitting order - I ticked yes - NEVER TICK YES !!!! and shipping will be calculated at a later date and will appear on the invoice.
So - firstly there is no option for shipping methods and absolutly no way of finding out what you will be charged for shipping until AFTER you have paid for it...... yes AFTER you have paid for it.....Strike ONE !!
I got charged $70US dollars to ship to Australia - which I thought was quite high but I can't get the door from anywhere else (that I know) so I was willing to bare that cost.
So my order was split (not that I was told this) and I received a package 2-3weeks later - not bad. Why can't I be notified of what is split and do I still want to proceed with the backorder STRIKE TWO !!! This had everything in it except the mounting plates. I then recieved the mounting plates 2 weeks later and realized I had been charged $30US almost the same amount as the first package even though the mounting plates weighed NOTHING and are only 2" square. This is because they put these 2 tiny plates into a massive box - STRIKE THREE - OH my god , can't they stick them in an envelope, this is total and utter crap, it just shows lack of respect for the small time orders with an attitude of thats the way it is, so deal with it. Didn't the person packaging think - hey lets make it cheaper for this guy. :banghead:
if anyone is interested - http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Happ_Controls (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Happ_Controls)
I need to go have a nap - sorry for the rant :soapbox:
cheers
Potts
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:angry:
I just worked out I paid $50 for 2 metal mounting plates - aaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh !!! that is the most outrageous waste of money I have ever spent in my life - DAM IT !!!!!! those :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored: HAPP :censored: can't believe :censored: :censored: waste :censored: :censored:
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Ordering directly from Happ is not the way to go. They beat people in the US with ridiculous shipping too, which wouldn't be so bad if the orders weren't poorly packed and their direct prices weren't 60-70% higher than from Happ resellers. There has to be a better alternative regardless of your location.
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Can you guys list the alternatives to Happ ???
I will start -
1) www.SlikStik.com
2) ???
cheers
Potts
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ponyboy on these forums is a Happs reseller and his prices are way cheaper. Check the buy/sell/trade thread...
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I ordered a coindoor, some buttons, a few heavy duty wheels, and 2 mounting plates. I proceeded through the order to the point where it says - do you mind splitting order - I ticked yes - NEVER TICK YES !!!!
Yeah, the real trick is to never order directly from Happ. Sorry you got bit before you read that someplace else on the forums. :(
Both Divemaster and Ponyboy will not only sell you Happ stuff at a discount but will only charge you basic USPS shipping rates
Ponyboy's thread in B/S/T (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0)
Divemaster's thread in B/S/T (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0)
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Here is an image of the Cabinet in full after being sprayed.
P.S why did I spray the sides when I was only going to put side art over the top I here you ask - well I just wanted to see what the finish would come out like
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CP work completed.
Take note of the side photo of the joystick - I had to offset the joystick from the metal because the CP stainless steel is so thin the bolts didn't screw up that tight - this was a pain in the :censored:.
Note regarding the X-Arcade D.I.Y kit I used - this is the 3rd time I have used the X-Arcade kit and to be honest I don't know why I keep using it. The wires are so short that it makes for a really tight mess of cables. It really is a joke - my CP has got to be the smallest out there and ever still I had a hard time reaching buttons with the wires. I love the work Knievel does - I have to stop mucking around and step it up a few notches for my next one.
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There were few questions earlier about how I was planning on doing the rotating control panel. It really was easier then I originally thought - I first counter sunk a hole on the inside of the cabinet just a tiny bit smaller then the nut I was going to bash into it (see closeup photo). I then drilled a hole in the CP sides and inserted a short bolt (the shortest I could find) - then when I screwed into these embedded bolts the CP spins on the nut and can't fall out because of the tight fit both sides. It rotates smoothly and really isn't a hassle to undo either.
I am still looking for a small enough and thin enough keyboard to fit - there out there I know, maybe soon I will get onto it.
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So I am going to make a large jump here in progress - I appologise because I have been working so hard on it that before I knew it the cabinet was finished.
Few Notes -
1 - I used 6.3mm Safty glass over the LCD (because Kids love to touch the screen) - I recommend this over the Perspex, much nicer, easier to clean, cheaper to purchase - and they cut it for you.2
2 - I plan on cutting out a side hole of the DVD tray so you insert DVD etc without having to open it up.
3 - I also want to add an arcade button for the power on and off (on the side next to the DVD tray)
4 - The LCD used has great viewing angles from all angles execpt from below - this is an absolute :censored: because majority of the time you are looking up - I would recommend testing the LCD's prior to purchasing and not just read the specs for viewing angle.
Apart from that if any of you guys have questions - fire away
cheers
Potts
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Finished Photo
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Looks sweet! A couple of questions...
How did you treat the control panel? Paint or something else.
What cables are coming out of the back and do you have any plans for them? Hole in the door? Hard mounts?
Great job.
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:notworthy: THIS IS WAY TO COOL :cheers:
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How did you treat the control panel? Paint or something else.
No - it's just a stainless steel metal surface, lots of scratches but doesn't look bad
What cables are coming out of the back and do you have any plans for them?
They are the mouse and keyboard cables, this will go once I have found a small keyboard with trackball mouse to put on the inside of the rotating CP to bne mounted properly.
Does anyone know if a portable usb touchpad exists out there - like on laptops, to replace the mouse ?
cheers
Potts
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Like this?
http://www.adesso.us/product_details.asp?dept_id=111&pf_id=KA33GP160U-121
I've only used them at work, not on an arcade project.
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Thats exactly what I am after :applaud: Thanks Monzamess
cheers
Potts
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Super cool....great job! :cheers: :applaud: