The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Jurykov on September 24, 2006, 06:42:52 am
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Firstly, let me thank all those on this site who's amazing cabinets inspired me to make one of my own. There are some really awesome machines on this site.
I'm not really much of a forum poster (usually just a lurker)... I just thought I would give back a little to this community that has given me so many ideas and pieces of advice.
I've thought about making myself a MAME machine for nearly two years. About six months ago I built a nice little two player panel. It was fun to play on, but I really wanted to be able to play some of the 4 player games (TMNT, Simpsons, gauntlet) I remembered playing in arcades of yore.
Disclaimer:
Those who hate "Frankenpanels" and those who hate the usual blue/black color theme should probably stop reading at this point :P
My design is kind of based off the Lusid cab, but the initial design was done pretty much from memory while making modifications to fit my components. I do have autocad dwg files for both the cab and the control panel if anyone would like after you see it (although with my skills with tools the real deal is quite far from the design in many ways :D).
Components:
3 x Happ Supers
1 x Mag Stick Plus (the throw is suprisingly short, but I am reserving judgement until I actually get it hooked up)
Lots O' Buttons
1 x Turbo Twist spinner
1 x Happ 3 inch trackball
1 X Logitech Z2300 speakers (too much money, but boy do they sound good...)
1 x 27" TV (open box, dropped, missing parts... Was cheap and new. The only damage was to the plastic housing which I wont be needing anyways. Was about 60% off and it suits my needs well)
1 x My old PC 3.0 ghz intel, 2gb ram, Radeon 9800 pro (really overkill for mame, but this will also be a web server/torrent box/vpn server/media player/Lan server/everything lol)
And on to the construction pics. (taken with my phone... sorry :'()
Disclaimer 2:
The biggest thing I have built up to this point is a CD shelf... Go easy on me ;D
Jurykov
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More pics...
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Since these pics I have put on a few coats of primer and two coats of black. Next steps are getting the artwork printed, and ordering a piece of glass. Everyone is still sold on Greylite 14 eh? I got a quote for about $80 CAN. Not too bad. I was hoping it would be a little cheaper, but I will call a few more places before I order.
I will post some more pics tomorrow. With sun light the camera on my phone works quite a bit better.
I was thinking of attempting to reproduce something like the schematic background from the CP artwork onto the side panels. Anyone have any tips? I thought printing out some different components as templates and using them as a stencil would be the best way to do it. Is there some kind of glue I could use to hold on stencils that would wash off, and wouldn't wreck the paint I have so far? Is painstakingly taping off my design the best way to go about doing this?
I also have a cool idea for the marquee, but I want to do some test runs on the material before I decide whether its feasible or not...
Any comments/criticisms?
Jurykov
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Can you use masking tape to hold your stencils in place?
It is normally cooperative with new paint.
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You are probably right, just tape on the stencils and whatnot and paint over everything. I was just wondering if there was another way to do it.
More pics. Not really any more cutting/assembly done, just paint and I made some phone calls about glass and printing.
That monitor is a tight fit, there is only about 2 inches between the back of the tube and the back panel. I knew it would be close, but I was pretty worried there for a bit.
I added a door lock to the "coin door" panel. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
The keyboard tray door is a really tight fit, I might have to shave an 1/8" off one side. I bought a magnetic catch thinking that I would need something to hold it closed. Instead I should have bought a handle. You really have to pull on it to get it open...
The last pic is a nice profile view. I'm starting to feel pretty good about the machine. It's sure nice to go from plans to something that resembles what you were trying to build in the first place.
As a side note, anyone in Western Canada have a used coin door for sale? (or someone who could ship one here for less than $85?) The local arcade supplier in Calgary wants $160 for a new over/under door. Thats a lot of cash for something that is mostly cosmetic...
Jurykov
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Just a small update today.
I finally installed the Speaker Panel. I had been putting it off, trying to think of a good way to mount the speakers first. I decided in the end to use velcro. Lots of room for error, and it should dampen some vibrations from transferring into the cab (although the sub will definitely be more of a problem).
I also got the keyboard tray installed. I'm getting a little better at cutting straight lines, so it actually went in without too much trouble. It's a little bit tight, but that seems to be the way everything has gone together so far.
I will be paying for the CP artwork tomorrow and the place here in town said I should have it within 48 hours. I should be able to start wiring by the weekend.
More to come in a few days...
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Post over in the B/S/T thread about the coin door, there's usually a few used ones floating around here for cheap.
For the stencils, there's this spray-on adhesive that is used to hold stencils in place-you should be able to find it at any craft type store. No clue what it's called, my ex used it to hold stencils in place when she did the borders in the office. It's water soluable, so after the paint dries you just hit it with a damp cloth.
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In some instances the vibrations from the sub-woofer actually 'enhance' the game play experience.
Robotron or Defender are good examples of this. ;D
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I might have found a coin door. A buddy of mine has a beat up/water damaged Capcom Bowling that he was going to mame at some point. Now he has decided he doesn't have the time/money/will for it so I should be able to talk him out of it. The problem wasn't with the cost of the door itself, just paying half the price again to have it shipped half a continent doesn't seem right.
Artwork will be done printing on Monday. I was hoping to have it for the weekend so I could start wiring, but I guess I will have to wait. I'm going to do some of the other cosmetic/final touch (too many to count...)stuff in the mean time instead. (probably better this way, so I don't go "well it's playable, I'm done")
I also found a friend with a vinyl printer/cutter. My marquee idea might just work after all. More info to come...
Jurykov
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I'm trying to figure out what sort of hinge to use on my CP top. On my old panel I just attached it with velcro, which worked really well, but this time I wanted to do it a little more professionally. My problem is, with the way the CP top overhangs the front, I don't know what kind of hinge would work.
I have included a bad paint diagram so you can see what I'm talking about... The overhang off the front is approx 1 inch. I need to find a hinge that not only lifts up, but lifts out as well. The hinges I used for the coin door panel wont quite do it (I dont think...).
I would prefer to have it be hidden, so I would like to avoid the piano hinge on the outside. Can anyone give me some advice as to what I'm looking for?
Also some pics of the printed artwork before I take the exacto knife to it.
Jurykov
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Just thought I would post the rest of what I got done tonight. I'm really happy with how the artwork turned out. Next up, wiring this beast...
I did some looking online for hinges, no luck yet. Anyone got any ideas?
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Impressive control panel! Looks good. Nice job! :applaud:
Why not just go for the piano hinge option?
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Thanks for the kind words MaMeNno,
To answer your question, I just don't want a visible hinge on the front. I Would like to keep the outside looking as clean as possible.
Maybe I should clarify, if I used the recessed cabinet hinges that I used for the coin door (pic in first post), the overhang on the front of the panel would get stuck against the front wall.
If I could set it up so that I could open it from the back, then I wouldn't mind using one big hinge on the outside. The problem there is that opening that way would run it into the glass or plexi that will eventually cover the monitor.
I am probably not explaining it very well, but I'm sure that there is something out there that will do what I need it to... I just have to go to more than one hardware store to find it lol.
Another diagram attached. It doesn't say much more than the first one, but with the hinges I have seen so far at the hardware store the bottom option is the best I can come up with. Like I say in the diagram, drilling into the cut edge of MDF doesn't seem like it would hold very well...
Jurykov
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I don't know how much room you have at the back, but you could also place the hinge on the opposite side. That would make turn the CP up.