Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: USSEnterprise on September 23, 2006, 12:18:03 pm
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How would one go about registering and insuring a vehicle with no title papers?
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You don't. Without title papers you don't own the car, therefore you do not register/insure the car.
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I'd call the DMV. Surely there is a process to get a new title for a car that would include finding out who the last title holder was based on the VIN number and making sure the car was never stolen. I'm sure the DMV can answer you question in about 30 secs.
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They can. What they'll do is check its history and its tax status. If there's no title odds are someone in its past owes taxes on it and they won't issue a new title until those taxes are paid off.
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nevermind, going to actually look at a car tomorrow. Possibly buy it. 1995 Subaru Legacy LS for $1500 obo with 129k
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I had a 97 Legacy. Great car when it ran. Broke down often. Cost a testicle to fix anything that went wrong with the AWD system. Most of the repairs were to the AWD system.
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According to Consumer Reports, the 95 wasn't too bad, but after 1996, they sucked
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Titles can be a real ---smurfette--- to get again-you'll likely spend a large chunk of the months between now and your 16th working on doing so and they're a nightmare to sell, as well. You'll also have fun finding an insurance company that will insure it once you DO have a title (they call it a "Grey market title"). While your car isn't one that was transfered in from out of countty, it will be the exact same situation. After checking all the major insurance providers when my (ex)-wife got a free car from her sister that had been purchased in Puerto Rico and then shipped to the States by the military, we found exactly one company that would insure it, American Family Insurance.
The real irony is that the car was manufactured 60 miles away from where we live at the Cherry Valley, IL plant
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People lose titles all the time and just getting a dupe is OK.
Here's a link to the Maryland MVA that talks about getting a duplicate title.
http://mva.state.md.us/VehicleServ/REG/titlereg.htm#dupcertificate
If a vehicle is not built to US specifications, and is imported to the US then it is considered a Grey Market vehicle. This is sounds exactly what happened to NightGod's ex. (Yes I know that Puerto Rico is part of the US, but it is a territory and likes to be self-governing.) If the car wasn't imported, you shouldn't have any problem about registering the vehicle. Just be careful about getting plates. MD is very careful what happens to them.
Lost title != grey market
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Most times a seller says that a vehicle has a lost title, they mean that there is no clear title for it-basically there's noone around who can prove that the vehicle belongs to them and that they're authorized to sell it. All sorts of things can cause this, most times (unless it's stolen), it ends up being something like "I bought this car from so-and-so and lost the old title that he had signed transfering ownership. Now (he's dead with no next of kin/I can't find where he lives/he moved to Nigeria to run an e-mail scam network)." In that case, you have to jump through hoops to get a title for it, and it will always be in the same class as Grey market vehicles, at least as far as insurance companies are concerned.
Yeah, if it's just a plain old lost title, no big deal, getting a copy is nothing. But any moderately intelligent seller would know that and would get a copy of a title for a vehicle they're planning to sell (that doesn't discount that this person could be a complete moron, of course). Hell, if it's anything like Illinois, the next time their yearly vehicle registration came up, they'd get a new copy of their title anyway.
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1995 Subaru Legacy LS for $1500 obo with 129k
We have 2 95 Legacys. I have an LS sedan, and my wife has an L wagon. I think they're good cars. My parents have a 99 Legacy, and an 06 Outback. My wife used to have a 93 Impreza, and I used to have an 89 XT-6. I know a thing or six about Subarus
Couple of things to look for.
Front oil seals. They will start leaking. At 129k, I'm pretty sure they were replaced 30-50k ago. The replacements are better. I replaced mine around 80k and I'm now over 160 with no signs of leakage. I've done the front oil seal/timing belt/water pump job at least 4 times.... generally around 80k. It's not particularly hard, but a little time consuming, plus you need an assistant. Again, I don't think you will need to worry about it. Check underneath the very front end of the engine, if it's wet with oil, it may need attention.
There's something with the gas gauge senders (there are two). If the gas gauge is non-functional, or erratic, you can take them out and carefully clean them. It's very easy to do, and if you get the can and need to do it, I can walk you through it. I've done it on both of our 95s.
While taking it on a test drive, find a nice empty parking lot or something. Drive in circles with the wheel to the stops in both directions. Decelerate and accelerate throughout the turns. If it feels weird, like something is binding up, that may indicate a problem with the AWD system, or it my just mean the the previous owner never rotated the tires. It's important that you regularly rotate the tires, because if the circumference of the tires (front/back) is different, it can play havoc with the awd, and can damage it over time. That being said, Subaru's AWD is fantastic in foul weather. I used to have a Jeep Cherokee and an F150, both with true on demand 4WD, and for regular driving, I much prefer the full time AWD.
Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
-S
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While taking it on a test drive, find a nice empty parking lot or something. Drive in circles with the wheel to the stops in both directions. Decelerate and accelerate throughout the turns. If it feels weird, like something is binding up, that may indicate a problem with the AWD system, or it my just mean the the previous owner never rotated the tires.
That is exactly one of the things that happened to ours. The car would go nuts and feel like it was going to blow up when you turned it more than like 45 degrees. Something in the transmission related to the AWD system went and it cost is $1500 to fix. That happened twice, once at 70k and once at 85k. The entire engine started to die by around 65k and at 75k the dealer told us the only way to save it was to replace the entire short block. A more trustworthy mechanic told us that was a bit extreme but that given all of the other issues we would be better off just trading the piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- in. It was just about dead before it hit 100k, with quality maintenance all of its life.
Consumer Reports doesn't mean squat. Until last year, they said the 97 was a great car too. That's why we bought it.
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I didn't buy it. It was leaking transmission fluid. Owner "appeared" oblivious
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Good move. Stop looking to buy a "nice" car and find an ugly reliable car. I know you're only 16 but you have to understand that no matter what your car looks like chicks don't dig walking home from a broken down car.
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A Legacy is a nice car? Since when? Now looking into another "ugly" volvo, a 1995 850 Turbo. Everything I'm reading says they are very reliable, and nice and safe. I personally think they are stylish cars,
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A Legacy is quite a nice car, a fairly pricey AWD wagon. AWD ain't cheap.
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I thought you meant "nice" asthetically
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Like I said, stop looking for a pretty $1500 car and look for one that actually goes from A to B 100% of the time.
Pretty costs more than $1500.
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I am. for example, the volvo I'm looking at is $2500, which if I'm a brown noser for a bit, my parents might lend me the extra cash.
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A Legacy is a nice car? Since when? Now looking into another "ugly" volvo, a 1995 850 Turbo. Everything I'm reading says they are very reliable, and nice and safe. I personally think they are stylish cars,
The '95 volvo 850 turbo is a good car. Yes, it is a good looking car. Pretty fast too (the '94 is 220 hp stock)The '96 is when the problems for the 850 started.
Just finished fixing up my '94 850 turbo. Few things to check for.
Car is most likely leaking oil. This could be a very easy/not serious fix. Check for oil stains around oil cap and near the oil dipstick. If leaking oil, warm up car then remove oil dipstick. If smoke comes out the dipstick hole, then your crankcase is overpressurized. A new crankcase ventilation system is $120. This replaces all the hoses and the oil separator. You should be good to go then.
Check for a placard stating the last time the timing belt was changed. The engine in an 850 turbo is an intereference design; IE, if the timing belt goes, say bye bye to all the valves (and the engine). Belt should be replaced every 40k. Will cost around $400 for parts and labor for timing belt and water pump.
Jerk on tires in front to feel for play. Also look at the rubber boots behind the front tires for dry rot or rips. Depending on mileage, you may be due front axles, or other suspension parts.
Go to www.fcpgroton.com to look at some part prices to get an idea of what costs you are looking at. This site is frikkin awesome for import parts. Their prices can't be beat, and the parts are the same stuff you would get from a volvo dealer...just half the price.
Last advice... you will be spending money on a volvo. Keep that in mind and make the seller aware. Talk them down in price to allow room for repairs. If you can get the car and get it up to snuff for less than or equal to book value, then you are set for quite some time.
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A Legacy is a nice car? Since when? Now looking into another "ugly" volvo, a 1995 850 Turbo. Everything I'm reading says they are very reliable, and nice and safe. I personally think they are stylish cars,
The '95 volvo 850 turbo is a good car. Yes, it is a good looking car. Pretty fast too (the '94 is 220 hp stock)The '96 is when the problems for the 850 started.
Just finished fixing up my '94 850 turbo. Few things to check for.
Car is most likely leaking oil. This could be a very easy/not serious fix. Check for oil stains around oil cap and near the oil dipstick. If leaking oil, warm up car then remove oil dipstick. If smoke comes out the dipstick hole, then your crankcase is overpressurized. A new crankcase ventilation system is $120. This replaces all the hoses and the oil separator. You should be good to go then.
Check for a placard stating the last time the timing belt was changed. The engine in an 850 turbo is an intereference design; IE, if the timing belt goes, say bye bye to all the valves (and the engine). Belt should be replaced every 40k. Will cost around $400 for parts and labor for timing belt and water pump.
Jerk on tires in front to feel for play. Also look at the rubber boots behind the front tires for dry rot or rips. Depending on mileage, you may be due front axles, or other suspension parts.
Go to www.fcpgroton.com to look at some part prices to get an idea of what costs you are looking at. This site is frikkin awesome for import parts. Their prices can't be beat, and the parts are the same stuff you would get from a volvo dealer...just half the price.
Last advice... you will be spending money on a volvo. Keep that in mind and make the seller aware. Talk them down in price to allow room for repairs. If you can get the car and get it up to snuff for less than or equal to book value, then you are set for quite some time.
Thanks for the advice. I really would like a volvo in general, but an 850 especially, since its front wheel drive, and my father won't let me buy a car otherwise. Does the water pump have to be changed at the same time as the timing belt?
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Usually, since they're the same age, and if one is gone the other is right behind it.
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Usually, since they're the same age, and if one is gone the other is right behind it.
And not only that, but the water pump is <relatively> cheap, but the labor to replace it is $$$. Its one of those things you do "just because". Saving $100 now will cost you $400 later.
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Or a LOT more when the out of spec water/timing setup destroys the engine as mentioned before.
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very true...
For my $1500 I'd probably look for an early 90's honda or toyota with ~ 100k miles. But I am biased towards japanese cars. Heck for $2k you could probably get a late 90's or early 2k's Hyundai or Kia
:dunno
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I don't trust Korean Cars.
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Hyundai is now one of the US Auto industry's largest domestic employers. They actually moved their factories here.
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very true...
For my $1500 I'd probably look for an early 90's honda or toyota with ~ 100k miles. But I am biased towards japanese cars. Heck for $2k you could probably get a late 90's or early 2k's Hyundai or Kia
:dunno
In that case, your $1500 isn't gonna get you far. 100,000 mile hondas and toyotas still fetch a pretty good price tag. You have to go 150,000 and above on honda/toyota to get in the price range. At those mileages, you are really playing with fire. The reason people buy volvo's, specifically 1994/1995 and earlier, is that the engines were made with the same kind of standards as engines in semi trucks. The engine will outlast the car in almost every case except for lemons that crap out around 100,000.
For my second car, I had a toyota corrolla. everyone told me how it would last forever. a year and a half later at 125,000 miles the engine blew. You don't HAVE to rebuild a volvo engine until well after 250,000 miles under normal operating conditions.
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Plus he can run it on used up french fry oil. Chicks love to smell like french fries.
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Not all volvos are diesel
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Not all lesbians, either.
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I think you've gotten about as much as you are going to get out of this thread. Abandon ship while the going is good. :laugh2:
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But it's funny. Sorta. Almost. Like his chances of finding that '67 Camaro for $1500.
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I think you've gotten about as much as you are going to get out of this thread. Abandon ship while the going is good. :laugh2:
Unless I see anymore posts that have real info in them, I probably will.
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That's friendly. We're only as good to him as the advice he won't take.
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That's friendly. We're only as good to him as the advice he won't take.
It's an understandable viewpoint, considering you have basically made it your goal to troll every thread he starts, even his bst threads.
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Ah, yes, all of the pinball related advice I've given him is also useless.
That's nice.
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Just call 'em as I see 'em.
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Chad has been okay, helpful at times, but some of the others on the forums are at a point where I think of them as pure ---uvulas---.
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My Dart didn't have a title when I bought it. I bought a cheap Dart off eBay being sold as a parts car, that had a title.
Now my Dart has a title.
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Chad has been okay, helpful at times, but some of the others on the forums are at a point where I think of them as pure ---uvulas---.
Don't be fooled, I'm more of a vulva.
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:laugh2:
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I found a car that I think I will probably end up getting. A 1996 Toyota Camry LE with 127,000 miles for $2500. Needs a new headlight assembly, EGR valve, and front tires. New brake pads and rotors, radiator, and hoses. Has ABS, Dual SRS, and Leather int. My father is checking it out tomorrow. Seems like a good, solid car.
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Going to be closer to a $3200 by the time you get all of that fixed, especially if you pay someone to do it. Just so ya know. Sounds like a solid price, though.
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Chad, are you sure you aren't thinking of labia? I ask cos this is the second time I've seen you associate uvula with naughty parts. I think you might be mixing up your orifices.
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Going to be closer to a $3200 by the time you get all of that fixed, especially if you pay someone to do it. Just so ya know. Sounds like a solid price, though.
Nah, I'll do the work myself. The EGR valve is an easy fix
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Needs a new radiator? Why, exactly? Was it in a wreck, or is it overheating? There may be something more of a problem there if it wasn't just physically damaged/punctured.
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Chad, are you sure you aren't thinking of labia? I ask cos this is the second time I've seen you associate uvula with naughty parts. I think you might be mixing up your orifices.
vul
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Needs a new radiator? Why, exactly? Was it in a wreck, or is it overheating? There may be something more of a problem there if it wasn't just physically damaged/punctured.
They do just rot with age sometimes.
Paired up with the new headlight assembly, though, makes the cause pretty obvious.
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I Has ABS, Dual SRS, and Leather int.
That Volvo 850 has all of that and more...not trying to cast doubt back on your decision or anything. ;D
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What about the Vulva 850?
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What about the Vulva 850?
That one does have a few nice features. It is definitely a good idea to test drive though, because there might be some fault's with the on-board computer that makes the car do crazy things. Also a good idea to run a carfax report to check the previous owner history, and to see if it has been run too hard in the past, or been wrecked/flood damaged/on fire.
Please be gentle Saint...
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You definitely want to go low mileage on a Vulva 850.
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Chad, are you sure you aren't thinking of labia? I ask cos this is the second time I've seen you associate uvula with naughty parts. I think you might be mixing up your orifices.
vul
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Chad, are you sure you aren't thinking of labia? I ask cos this is the second time I've seen you associate uvula with naughty parts. I think you might be mixing up your orifices.
vul
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No idea, I'm not the one who said uvula.
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Doesn't need a new radiator, brakes, or rotors. Has new radiator, brakes, and rotors.
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Doesn't need a new radiator, brakes, or rotors. Has new radiator, brakes, and rotors.
Did you ask why it has a new radiator and hoses and needs a new headlight assembly?
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Headlight assembly is cracked. Nothing major. From what she told me, the old radiator was leaky. There does not appear to be any body damage.
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Headlight assembly is cracked. Nothing major. From what she told me, the old radiator was leaky. There does not appear to be any body damage.
Look inside the engine compartment for kinks and bends on the frame. Look for misalignments at the edges of the hood, and the hinge area of both front doors. Run a carfax report. It doesn't take much of a frame bend to really ruin your car.
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It's fun to replace your front tires every 7000 miles.
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1995 Volvo 850 Turbo. Paid $2500. Has new tires. Needs an ABS ECM. Has front and side air bags, ABS (not working), traction control, 10 disc CD changer, leather, sunroof, etc, etc. Awesome car.
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Just got it home. I love it (in more ways than one). It especially likes when I tickle its underside >:D
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YAY!!!!! You finally got your car!
ABS control unit is $300 over at FCP Groton. Are you sure it is the control unit though?
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Not yet, but from what I'm reading, its a common failure for the model. I need to see if the diagnostic box is still in there and run a few tests. Don't ask how, but I just downloaded for free the full volvo service manual for the car.
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http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/abstrax.php
http://www.volvospeed.com/850slight.php
http://www.volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo_850.php
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8220
Here are the codes for a '95 volvo:
http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/
This guy diagnoses and repairs volvo ABS modules for $125.
http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/Volvo_Parts/Volvo_V70_ABS.htm
The '95 850 is not listed, but you can always ask.
Have fun!