Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: acampero on September 09, 2006, 03:21:49 pm
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I am having a couple of issues with my WG25K7193 Monitor. The first are the slightly diagnol lines across the screen and the second is an overall pic quality. The monitor looks soft and yellow/greenish. I was wondering if this would be helped by a cap kit or if I should just tweak the pots on the board of the monitor.
Included is a pic showing the problems.
Thanks
Arn
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that is poor setup of colours/contrast and brightness
1-turn down the screen volts on the flyback transformer until you loose all the flyback lines
2-turn down all you foreground and back ground colours on the neck card
3-turn down your contrast a touch
4-turn you brightness pot up so you can just see a picture and then starting with green adjust all your colours(backgrounds are always low)until the picture get better
5-adjust the contrast for richness of picture
6-repeat the setup for the colour pots if necessary
7-if the focus is out then you can adjust that on the flyback(its next to the screen volts)
if your background colours are too high then that will give you flyback lines as well
so go get yourself a flashlight and a mirror and we hope to see you post a perfect picture in about 20 mins ;)
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Quick Question.
This cabinet is a dynamo cut corner cabinet. The only way to get to the monitor is through the front of the cabinet. That being said. Do you have any suggestions for an easy way to get the monitor out just far enough to tweak those settings, without having to be concerned about yanking any cabling from the jamma harness out, or worse yet zapping myself.
I can't wait to post pics once I tweak the settings. Thanks sooo much for the tips!
Arn
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thats a bit of a bummer,but in the same position i would remove the entire monitor and set it up on a bench so its easier to adjust everything(30 mins top)
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So,
Do I unplug the monitor from the Jamma harness (after its unplugged) pull it, then workbench it and then hook it back up?
Sounds a little scary.
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you have to dis the power and signal input(and possibly a ground),can you not see or access the monitor anywhere?
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Basically there is a really small square hole cut in the back where I can barely make out the back board of the monitor (but not enought o monkey with it) There is where the power cord comes out and plugs into the powersupply.
The front is like the attached pic. Again I can see part of the control panel but not enough to get to the meat and potatos that I need to
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Here is the view of the rats eye
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como?
sometimes its a bit of a job to remove monitors,but in your situation you may need to unbolt the entire monitor,lean it forwards and dis the power and signal cables then remove from the cab,and somehow get the power and signal cables to the monitor whilst it is situated safely outside
btw what does "but not enought o monkey with it" mean
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That sounds like the right thing to do.
I meant that while I could see the board for the monitor, there was not enough room to get to the pots that I need to adjust, ie... the screen volts and the color pots.
Not enough TO monkey with it, is what I should have said. Excuse the engrish prob.
So I will carefully remove the monitor after I dis the power and sig cables, so that I have an easier way to get to those controls.
Thanks a ton! Pics will follow
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What a dumb cabinet design huh?!? (no back panel access) sheesh
While you have the monitor out, I'd do something better with those power leads. At the least put some AC wire nuts on them. A pair of molex connectors prefered, but anything is better than that electrical tape job.
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Thats a good idea. Ghetto tape job was concerning me, but I wasn't 100% sure what it was.
I can't believe that this cabinet is so hard to get into to work on. Granted the fact that the CPS-2 board is mounted on an easy to pull out board is nice, but to work on the monitor... yuck.
Do I need to drain the caps before I mess with the power leads? I was hoping to avoid having to do that (soooo scared) but if I need to, then I need to.
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no need to discharge anything just make sure all cables are disconnected before total removal-god sometimes i wish i could teleport myself to these problems,i would get it sorted in half an hour-imagine what its like to look after 200 machines every day :soapbox:,sorry just having a poo day :laugh2:
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It looks like there is a satellite control to make a lot of the adjustments. Follow the trail of wires to it.
Also: there shouldn't be any reason to remove the monitor to make adjustments. Reach in the hole and adjust away. You'll need a mirror to see what you're doing. In fact, removing the monitor from the cab just increases the chances that you'll do something bad to it.
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Unfortunately the control panel only has the V-hold, H-Hold, Contrast and Black Level, as well adjustments for the Vertical and Horitzontal picture.
Contrast and Black Level don't help enough. I need to get into the individual color adjustments and the screen volts and focus.
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Again: there should be *no* need to remove the monitor to do these adjustments. It's kind of a pain, but you can do it with a mirror.
I speak from experience, I'm an arcade tech.
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All the Dynamo cut corner cabs I've seen have all had a normmal back door on it. Just unlock the lock and lift off the back door just like any other video game.
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if you can safely get to the neck card to adjust your blue background without removing the monitor then thats all well and fair,i was just concerned that squeezing your hand into high voltage circuits could result in damage to yourself and your monitor(i once broke a neck of a crt after getting a shock),anyway good luck and be careful
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When I first posted I didn't read thouroughly and thought he was trying to do it with the back door off. Didn't realize he was trying to do it thru that tiny hole.
There is a way to get the back off nearly every cabinet, esp. Dynamos. Post a picture of the entire back.
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It took me a while to get back to this, but thanks everyone for the help. It turns out I just needed to pull the monitor out of the front and then I could easily make the adjustments. Everything is working better, just need to tweak everything a bit more.
Pics to follow this week.
Thanks a ton!!!
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All of the Dynamo 25" cut-corner cabs I have had have had a 12" x 24" access panel on the back you can unscrew to access the monitor. This cab looks like it has one too, right above the little hole in the one picture.
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All the Dynamo cut corner cabs I've seen have all had a normmal back door on it. Just unlock the lock and lift off the back door just like any other video game.
I have one and the entire back comes off mine.
-S