Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum

Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 02:47:15 pm

Title: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 02:47:15 pm
I want to place 2 Ultimarc J-sticks into a wooden control panel.  Since these sticks are made for a metal panel, I will need to take special measures.

What I'm planning is to mount them from underneath the CP, but I'm not too sure how thick I need the remaining wood to be after routing.  I want it to be solid, but if I have plexi on top of the wood, I don't want the sticks to be too short above the CP surface.  Will they be too short anyway?

Has anyone done this, or does anyone have any insight?

Thanks-

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: kowal on July 24, 2006, 03:56:55 pm
your panel can not have more how 1cm thickness.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55807.0
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 04:07:55 pm
Thanks for the info and link, I searched around on the forum for awhile, but I must have missed that post. 

Anyway, does anyone have an opinion on stick length if this stick is mounted from underneath?  I want the Japanese-style ball sticks, but don't want to wind up with an uncomfortably short stick.

Does anyone sell replacement shafts for Sanwa sticks that might be longer?  I found plenty of them for Happ Sticks, Is this a universal thing?  (I'm assuming not. . . )

Thanks-

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: kowal on July 24, 2006, 04:18:46 pm
Sanwa JLF - shaft 34mm+balltop 35mm = 69mm
Sanwa JLW (Euro, USA, Ultimarc version) - shaft 34mm+balltop 35mm = 69mm
Sanwa JLW onlny japan - shaft 27mm +balltop 35mm = 62mm

I can execute handles. I can make on 79mm (shaft 44mm + balltop 35mm). If you will install it in panel 18mm you will be dust 26mm under ball.
read a little this subject
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=53719.0
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 05:11:01 pm
Thanks for all of your help, Kowal.

Are the mounting plates big enough to mount on top of a wooden CP?  It looks like there wouldn't be room for the wire contact points.  Does anyone sell replacement plates that might be bigger?

I'm thinking that the J-stick might be more trouble than it's worth for a wooden CP.  Are the E-sticks from ultimarc any good?

thanks-

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: kowal on July 24, 2006, 05:41:40 pm
E - stcik
fighter is very hard (spring <600g)
shumps my long engagement.
this is not good joystick.
He is good to Q- bert only :P
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 06:17:29 pm
Thanks again.  Capcom fighters will be the most played games on my cab.  It's good to know that the E-stick sux for fighters.

thanks-

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: Minwah on July 24, 2006, 07:01:55 pm
I mounted my J-Stiks on 3/4" MDF.  I routed the underside down to ~4mm - I wouldn't want to go any less than that.

Also check your router chuck/bit after doing one 'player'.  I didn't and the bit gradually came out ruining a good job up to then  >:(  However I routed the top side down 4mm and sunk a 4mm metal plate to it, so it turned out ok :)

FWIW I really like the J-Stiks.  They are too light for some people but I find them a pretty good alround stick.  You can stiffen them up a bit by stretching the spring if need be...
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 07:39:23 pm
Minwah-

Thank you.  I hate to impose after you were kind enough to reply, but do you happen to have a photo of how tall the stick is with your 4mm routing job?  I'm having a hard time visualizing how much I'm going to lose by mounting it below.  Did you have a sheet of plexiglass on your CP, or did you use something else?

Thanks-

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: Timoe on July 24, 2006, 08:51:26 pm
Here is a pic of a Jstick mounted under 5/8" MDF and 1/8" Plexi.  I routed out the bottom leaving just the exact thickness of my Tnuts (3/8" or less).

It is solid and still has good stick height.
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 24, 2006, 09:23:35 pm
Here is a pic of a Jstick mounted under 5/8" MDF and 1/8" Plexi.  I routed out the bottom leaving just the exact thickness of my Tnuts (3/8" or less).

It is solid and still has good stick height.

thanks a lot, man!

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: Minwah on July 25, 2006, 05:34:29 am
Thank you.  I hate to impose after you were kind enough to reply, but do you happen to have a photo of how tall the stick is with your 4mm routing job?  I'm having a hard time visualizing how much I'm going to lose by mounting it below.  Did you have a sheet of plexiglass on your CP, or did you use something else?

I don't have a pic to hand with the panel routed, but on this page (about half way down) there are some pics of a panel I used previously.  This is 15mm (~5/8") MDF, NOT routed.  So if you can imagine the sticks poking out 11mm more....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=18812.40

I do not have a sheet of plexi, I will be using a CPO (when I've designed it!).

Edit: I think I should have a pic at home of the new routed panel, so I'll try to find that tonight...
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on July 25, 2006, 01:24:07 pm
Thank you.  I hate to impose after you were kind enough to reply, but do you happen to have a photo of how tall the stick is with your 4mm routing job?  I'm having a hard time visualizing how much I'm going to lose by mounting it below.  Did you have a sheet of plexiglass on your CP, or did you use something else?

I don't have a pic to hand with the panel routed, but on this page (about half way down) there are some pics of a panel I used previously.  This is 15mm (~5/8") MDF, NOT routed.  So if you can imagine the sticks poking out 11mm more....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=18812.40

I do not have a sheet of plexi, I will be using a CPO (when I've designed it!).

Edit: I think I should have a pic at home of the new routed panel, so I'll try to find that tonight...


Thanks, Your Cab looks Great!

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: JoshuaMiller on August 01, 2006, 04:36:58 pm
New Question-

How did you guys mount the sticks from below without showing mounting bolts on the top of the CP?  How can I attach the sticks to such a thin amount of wood and have it be solid?

Thanks for all of your help-

--Joshua--
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: 97thruhiker on August 01, 2006, 06:38:27 pm
Not sure on the thickness of your wood panel but you should not have any problem mounting a "J" Stick.  In my mame cabinet (3/4 inch) I just routed a square roughly a little bigger then the footprint and it worked fine.  On the Donkey Kong Cabinet I just finished I did not route the panel.  The picture shows 1/2 MDF, two layers of laminate (to get the desired 9/16 thickness for the t-molding), lexan control panel overlay (I'd guess a millimeter thick), and the dust washer.  It feels perfect in my opinion.  As far as mounting I just countersunk carraige bolts into the MDF below the layers of laminate.  Good luck, I really like the "J' stik and if you are looking for colors other then red check out Lizard Lick Amusements.  I got great customer service from them.  The $19 one is the same as the "J" Stik.

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: destructor on August 02, 2006, 06:22:18 am
New Question-

How did you guys mount the sticks from below without showing mounting bolts on the top of the CP?  How can I attach the sticks to such a thin amount of wood and have it be solid?

Thanks for all of your help-

--Joshua--
I used muffs screwed in below side of CP.
(http://www.grass-hopper.pl/foto/ico_438.jpg)
Inside is screw-thread, outside is special screw-thread which screw in into wood.
I don't know what accurate name it have in english language.
Title: Re: Routing For J-Stick
Post by: NightGod on August 04, 2006, 12:25:55 am
T nuts are a similar thing to those muffs as you called them. Biggest difference is no thread on the outside, they get pushed into the wood and lock in place. A quick google should give you plenty of info.