The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: kalkin on March 12, 2003, 02:12:56 am
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I know it's been asked before but I can't seem to find it using search.
What size drill do I need when drilling holes in cp for buttons and joysticks (supers, if it makes any difference) ???
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Just drilled out my overlay this week. Standard button size(from happs) is 1 1/8"
It was tough for me to find a hole saw that exact size but after a little searching I found a whole mess of em at Sears. None to be found at Loews or Home Depot. Hope this helps.
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You can also use a 1 1/8" spade bit - though they can be a bit pricey.
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Thanks a lot! I needed the size, however, living in Sweden I don't have access to the stores you mentioned.
1 1/8" (1.125"). That's about 28.5 millimeters for us metricians. Hm, sounds like an odd size.
What's the difference between using a spade bit and a hole saw anyway? A hole is a hole is a hole, right? :) Sorry if it's a silly question, it's just that I've never done serious woodworking before.
After searching I found this adjustable spade bit, which would possibly deal with the awkward size problem....
http://www.clasohlson.se/images/products/S/hi/A/HD3_307760_hi_S.jpg
Think it might work?
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yeah a hole is a hole pretty much - I'm no woodworking expert though.
Dunno about the adjustable bit - May work Ok.
I bought a spade bit because I could buy it on its own (whereas hole saw bits come in sets). I'm in Australia, (metric system too ;D) so I'll check the bit out and see if it gives a metric size equivalent or "number" and post it again later.
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A hole saw is like a cylinder with saw teeth on the end. A hole saw will usuually give better results. but the depth they can handle is a little limited. A hole saw is one of the few options for holes over 2 inches.
A spade bit is a flat blade with point on the end of a shaft. Spade bits can usually drill a deeper hole, but they are usually only made in sizes under 2 inches.
I used a spade bit on my with no problems. One of the tricks to getting clean holes with either type is to drill your hole part way through on one side. Stop when the pilot bit(Hole Saw) or point(Spade Bit) starts to come through the other side. Then complete the hole from the other side.
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I used a 30mm Forstner bit since 28.5mm is kinda tough to find. It worked great. Its a tiny bit bit bigger than the 1 1/8" that everyone recommends, but only by about 1/16. I used this cause it was in the set of forstner bits that already had and I didn't want to go out and buy another special bit.
If you are going shopping for a bit, I would get a forstner bit over a spade bit, it makes cleaner holes.
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I used a 1 1/8" spade bit... it was speedbor brand from lowes and was about $5..
worked well on the wood.. you just have to watch for breakthrough.. the spade bit also worked well on the lexan.. very good results for the price!
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1 1/8" Forstner bit is the way to go. You get a nice clean hole everytime. I'm sure that if you are not in a hurry someone here may be willing to buy you one and send it to you as long as you cover the cost of the bit and shipping. You could also buy one online somewhere probably.
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Thanks for all the replies :D
I bought one of those adjustable spade bits and I think it would have given a good result if the darned thing didn't wobble, giving the hole a slightly conical shape >:( Going to replace it and give it one more chance.
Anyone know if there's a recommended size for the hole for joysticks too? I'm using Happs Supers and the CP is made of 5/8" (16mm) MDF.
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Use the same size holes for the stick as the buttons(1 1/8)
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Use the same size holes for the stick as the buttons(1 1/8)
If your CP is too thick, a 1 1/8 inch hole will keep the joystick from being able to move through it's full range. I use a 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 spade bit for the stick.
I find spade bits work much better than hole saws. But that's just me. I always flip the work over the moment the point on the bit breaks through.
Bob
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I just drilled some CPs; i used a 1 1/8 spade bit in my drill press, it worked out really nice.
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I'm in Australia as well as BloodyViking77 and most of the bits have both measurements on them. I got both the hole saw and the spade. Have only used the saw and found it very easy to use with a normal drill. I hole saw is just a hollow cylinder with cutting teeth around the both edge and a pilot drill bit in the middle. Because of it's cylindrical shape it is very easy to keep straight.
Here is a pic of a hole saw and spade
http://home.iprimus.com.au/craigrb/images/tools.JPG (http://home.iprimus.com.au/craigrb/images/tools.JPG)
You'll notice the hole saw is 29mm. The other good thing about the hole saw is that as you are cutting, it only needs to cut a one circle in the wood instead of having to scrap a hole in the wood like a spade would do.
Cheers
-cdbrown
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Just use a boring bit. They are very cheap and I use it for my arcade sticks. Very easy to use. Thanx.
-See Ya!!!
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You'll notice the hole saw is 29mm. The other good thing about the hole saw is that as you are cutting, it only needs to cut a one circle in the wood instead of having to scrap a hole in the wood like a spade would do.
The downside is getting the leftover plug out of the hole saw can be a pita.
If you have a drillpress, the only reason I can see to use a hole saw is sheetmetal.
Bob
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The downside is getting the leftover plug out of the hole saw can be a pita.
Bob
Actually I believe all hole saws have a notch(or many notches) along the bit itself that are designed to help in plug removal(from the bit). I know mine did. You simply take a nail or pencil and pop the plug out of the bit.
I made my 1st CP with a spade bit and will NEVER use it again. If you are not using a drill press it is too hard to keep straight. I had no problem with the hole saw though. To each their own I guess... ;D
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Seems to be simply a matter of preference which one of the spade bit or hole saw to use. Nobody seems to have gotten a really bad result with either one. I'll be able to afford both once I return this wobbling, worthless, piece of junk adjustable spade bit I got :)
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The downside is getting the leftover plug out of the hole saw can be a pita.
Bob
Actually I believe all hole saws have a notch(or many notches) along the bit itself that are designed to help in plug removal(from the bit).
Mine have notches too, but sometimes a plug of wood still gets stuck in there. Especially when I used it on oak. I ended up needing to drill holes in the oak an chip it out bit by bit. Took a long time.
I really like having a drill press. I have vauge memories of life before it, but I try to supress them. ;-)
Bob
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I have found that Hole saws are easier to make a clean hole on thiner material (like 1/8 lexan).
and Spade bits are faster for thicker material
(like 3/4 wood).
just my opinions.
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My Milwaukee hole saw has a quick release arbor(the part in the middle with the pilot drill) to allow for interchangeable blades. I just pull the arbor out and pop out the plug with a screw driver.
Most other hole saws have some way to pull out the pilot bit. That usually makes removing the plug a lot easier.
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It seems like Forstner bits aren't getting their fair share of discussion here. They're like a combination of the best of both worlds between a hole saw and a spade bit. They've been mentioned, but the debate seems to be focusted on spade bits v. hole saws.
my 2 cents
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what should i use to drill button and joy holes on 1/8 inch plexi?
any tips on doing it also?
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Use a 1 1/8" forstner bit. It drills the cleanest holes of the three bits and the lexan isn't as prone to melting as it is with the hole saw or spade bit. Spade bits are especially notorious for causing melting in lexan as I understand it. I've never actually drilled any lexan with a spade bit, though, so this is second-hand information. Don't pick to many nits over it, though. Remember that crappy button holes tend to look EXACTLY the same as nice clean button holes once the button is installed (the lip on the button will cover minor imperfections). If you're on a budget just go with the spade bit and you'll probably be perfectly happy with the results.
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Remember that crappy button holes tend to look EXACTLY the same as nice clean button holes once the button is installed (the lip on the button will cover minor imperfections). If you're on a budget just go with the spade bit and you'll probably be perfectly happy with the results.
Shmokes is correct. Really whatever bit you use is cool. Your buttons will cover up any imperfections!
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It seems like Forstner bits aren't getting their fair
They cost too much unless you *need* a flat bottomed hole. I've got one for some project I was working on, and it is excellent -- just too expensive.
My $0.02
Bob
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It seems like Forstner bits aren't getting their fair
They cost too much unless you *need* a flat bottomed hole. I've got one for some project I was working on, and it is excellent -- just too expensive.
My $0.02
Bob
yeah but you only need one for the whole cp project anyways. And you can use it for the other CP's you will build (who can build just one? :) ) Besides- Forstner Bit + Drill Press = Excellent and fast results. I used one and someone asked if I had the cp machined because the holes are so clean and sharp - that's a pretty decent comment :)
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what should i use to drill button and joy holes on 1/8 inch plexi?
any tips on doing it also?
For LEXAN, the follow-up answers are correct and most anything will work.
For PLEXI, most people recommend using a hole saw in REVERSE and lettting it melt instead of cut through the plexi.
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what should i use to drill button and joy holes on 1/8 inch plexi?
any tips on doing it also?
For LEXAN, the follow-up answers are correct and most anything will work.
For PLEXI, most people recommend using a hole saw in REVERSE and lettting it melt instead of cut through the plexi.
I used a spade bit, a drill press, and a jorgenson clamp for my plexi.
SAFETY GOGGLES are a must. Flying bits of plexi and eyes don't mix. Or I guess they *do* mix, and that's the problem ;-)
It worked fine.
Bob
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Can't believe we've had 29 responses to this question. Everybody: put down the mouse, step away from the computer slowly, and go outside. ;D
<just joking, its great to hear different experiences>
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Would a regular 1 1/8" boring bit be preferable to the others already meantioned? I know my father-in-law has one (and yes, his drill press is HUGE--my back still hurts from when I helped him move it 3 years ago). He has drill bits that take two hands to pick up.
-Scooter
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Woodboring = spade bit
Frankly I used this without any problems, and chances are fairly good that you have them already your garage. Or maybe it was just me :)