Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: JoyMonkey on July 17, 2006, 07:46:18 am
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I was going to post this in AtomSmashers thread ( 3/4 Scale Pac-Man style Cab for Kids (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55720.0) ) but figured I'd better make my own thread. I hadn't seen Atom's thread so it's pure coincidence that we both happened to do pretty much the same thing at the same time.
I went to work on Saturday and for whatever reasons, ended up having to be in the workshop with about 5 hours with nothing to do. So I clocked out and did the first thing that popped into my head, which was a full Ms.Pac/Galaga cab using one sheet of ultralight 3/4" MDF. I did do a little work on an old project that I really should finish, but I'm easily distracted and must have a little ADD.
I used 3/4" material because that's what I had at hand and so I could use regular t-molding. I redrew Jakobud's plans making them cnc friendly and scaled everything down 2/3 of the original size; this way the cab is about 44" tall and most of the parts will fit on a 4x8 sheet. To make assembly a little easier, I routed 1/8" deep grooves out of the interior surface of the cabinet sides that the various parts could slide easily into. After cutting I did a quick dry assembly to make sure everything fit okay, and it seems to hold together pretty solid, although I'll be adding some support braces to hold everything together anyway. I had to take it apart to cut the t-molding slots and this is where I stand right now.
I'm not sure who this cab is for, since I don't have any kids. My wife does love Galaga and we are short on space, so maybe I'll just keep it and mount it on a little pedestal so it'll be tall enough for us to play. Or I might give it to my cousins kids. Or it might just sit unfinished in the workshop for years to come like everything else I do, who knows?
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Hey, if you want to sell one of those kits, I'd buy one. Maybe more than one.
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Yeah, hey, that's cool...and close enough to pick up. How much would you want?
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If it works out well I'll definetly consider doing more. I might use melamine instead of mdf though, so the surfaces would need less finishing work (or wouldn't need finishing at all if you like black). But I've so much shite going on, I'd really like to get something finished before I start making more of anything else (remember my 99% complete Midway cocktail, my 75% complete original cocktail and the Centipede?).
I have no idea what a kit like this should sell for. Maybe $180 with the aluminum control panel (drilled to order), acrylic for the marquee and monitor bezel and some wood braces.
If I do make more of these, it's going to take a while. My workshop is about to pack up and move to another city, so everythings in chaos and I don't want to add more crap to it all.
The cab might look kind of naked without a coin door though. Any suggestions?
And what do you think is a good width for the front of this thing? Right now the pieces are 16" wide and 1/4" of that is recessed into the cabinet sides, so the control panel will be 15 3/4" wide and that's the space I'll need to squeeze a monitor of some kind into. Probably should have thought about that a little first, huh?
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Yeah, definitely the monitor is the big consideration there. If you want to to 19" you need to design it around that. I wouldn't want to go any smaller than 15" for a monitor. Of course, who says you have to design for a CRT? These days it may be easier to stick an LCD in there, especially given how light you're trying to make the cab itself. No point in making the cab light and then putting a heavy ass CRT in there.
My recommendation for the whole package would be to include all of the CNC based parts. Let the buyer supply the rest. And since it's a Pac, maybe eventually a small mylar stencil for it, since that's a CNC part too.
I wouldn't worry too much about a coin door. Let the buyer track down a bartop coin door or something like that. If you get that far into detail the cost is going to go far enough to limit sales.
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Now that I look at how all the dimensions scaled down, anything bigger than a 14" monitor will be too big. I measured an old 14" (at least I think it's a 14", maybe it's a 15") and it just about fits in perfectly. A 17" might fit in with the casing removed, but it's difficult to tell. I thought the front measurement would be the contraining factor on this, but it looks like it's the side profile that's going to make fitting a monitor a little tricky.
I think I'll confiscate this 14" monitor from the office since it hasn't been used in about 10 years :D
Edit: Looks like a Ms.Pac/Galaga Reunion joystick will just about fit on the CP too. This is going to be tight, but it should work.
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Would a CRT make that thing really top heavy? You don't want kids playing a cab they can pull down on top of themselves. They'll do it.
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Must be nice to have access to that equipment. :)
I think an LCD monitor would work well in there, maybe mounted so it's almost vertical. The 19" I just bought is only 16" wide so a 17" LCD would probably fit your cabinet.
It's another option to suggest anyway, if you do start selling kits to people.
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Would a CRT make that thing really top heavy? You don't want kids playing a cab they can pull down on top of themselves. They'll do it.
I'm not sure. The monitor is just above the center of gravity and there'll be a PC in the very bottom to add to the lower weight. I could always use full weight MDF for the base panel and a lighter material (maybe 1/4" plywood) for the top and upper section of the back. The cabinet itself is ultralight mdf, but it's still not feather light - the ultralight mdf parts weigh about 60lbs.
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Must be nice to have access to that equipment. :)
I think an LCD monitor would work well in there, maybe mounted so it's almost vertical. The 19" I just bought is only 16" wide so a 17" LCD would probably fit your cabinet.
It's another option to suggest anyway, if you do start selling kits to people.
Yeah, the machinery is nice to have, if only I had more time to play with it.
Looks like this 15" LCD (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16824009077) would just about fit, but if the monitor is mounted vertically (I would think that's the way most people would want it) the viewing angle would be only 110
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Here's the CP layout I'll probably be doing for this. Simple 1 button layout (for left or right handers), reunion 4-way stick and some Happ miniature momentary contact buttons (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/49057700.htm) for the player start buttons.
I'll be running DOS and GameLauncher and the following vertical games (using Paige's List of 4-Way Vertical games (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13623.msg106959#msg106959) as a reference);
Amidar
Anteater
Burger Time
Dig Dug
Donkey Kong, DK Jr & DK3
Frogger
Galaga & Galaxian
Mr.Do! & Mr.Do's Castle
Ms.Pac-Man
Pac-Man
Pengo
Qix
Space Invaders
Super Bagman
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Looks like this 15" LCD (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16824009077) would just about fit, but if the monitor is mounted vertically (I would think that's the way most people would want it) the viewing angle would be only 110
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I guess mini pacman cabs really are the current fad. The problems you noticed with the lack of monitor and control panel space confirmed a few of my concerns. I was considering changing my design to a mini Lusid cab, and now I think I'm definately going to switch. Looks like you'll still be able to make it work, but I really want to have a trackball on there for the kids.
Should be a good looking cab when your done.
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Wow - all that in 5 hours? You have some serious skills. Mini-Pac-man cabs really are all the rage. I'm going to be starting one soon too but I'm going to be painting it pink to match my daughter's room and putting flowers and crap on the marquee to make it as girly as possible. She's almost two and I've been dying to get her started...
I'll definitely be following your progress...
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Here's one from a few years back that's pretty much exactly the same size as mine;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=29278.0
I notice Keith angled the monitor up a little though. I'll have to see what the best way of looking at the monitor is from a sitting position; I'd imagine with the way his monitor is angled it might be difficult to see the top of the screen if your head is slightly above the marquee. His viewing angle allows a larger (17") monitor to fit easier though.
Hmmmm...
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Nice work, JM!
-S
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Here's one from a few years back that's pretty much exactly the same size as mine;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=29278.0
I love this one - it's actually what inspired me to build a mini-ms. pac-man someday.
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Lookin good there JoyMonkey. I'll definately keep track of this thread.
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Nice!.....now the hard part kicks in!....details details.
Have fun with your project! :cheers:
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I have no idea what a kit like this should sell for. Maybe $180 with the aluminum control panel (drilled to order), acrylic for the marquee and monitor bezel and some wood braces.
If I do make more of these, it's going to take a while. My workshop is about to pack up and move to another city, so everythings in chaos and I don't want to add more crap to it all.
How much just for a piece of $15 MDF strapped into the machine, you hit the button, it cuts the parts while you walk away? I'm handy. I can make the rest.
The cab might look kind of naked without a coin door though. Any suggestions?
Either a 1/2 height door or heck...a full size Midway door.
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How much just for a piece of $15 MDF strapped into the machine, you hit the button, it cuts the parts while you walk away? I'm handy. I can make the rest.
A lot of people think cnc routing is this easy, I wish it were. Setting up path strategies is a complicated process, though if I'm duplicating the same thing I only have to do it once and its something I like to think I'm good at. That said, there's no hitting a button and walking away from a machine that costs almost as much as my house; I have to stay there and sweat it out with the machine as it cuts; make sure it keeps sucking material to the bed where its supposed to, keeping depths uniform, making sure it doesn't arc too quickly through too much material, clear the machines path for tool changes, blah blah blah.
I've walked away to take a phone call and come back to find it mashing a 2" block of aluminum into its own bed and I'm glad I didn't have to touch the bill for that myself. The machine has also thrown large pieces of aluminum at me as they lift from the vacuum; as if it's trying to kill me :-\
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A lot of people think cnc routing is this easy, I wish it were. Setting up path strategies is a complicated process, though if I'm duplicating the same thing I only have to do it once and its something I like to think I'm good at.
Okay, you already got the one, I can see the pieces. How much, how much, how much! How much casssssssssssssssh.
Ah no, I've been drinking again...
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lucky kids, this is way better then hungry hungry hippos ;D
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you can check http://www.minimame.com (http://www.minimame.com)
it's the home of mini-pacman (70% scaled)
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Not sure how this happened, but I've never really worked on MDF by hand before. Never. Life just goes by with me being completely oblivious to the stuff.
Yesterday after work I went to cut the t-molding slot on both sides of the cabinet and my whole body ended up with a nice even coat of mdf dust. I knew well enough to wear a face mask, but take a look at this photo- my arm hair isn't usually that crusty looking.
:P I also took a very noticeable chunk out of the front of one of the panels (see below). Do I just use something like Elmers Wood Filler to fill this up?
And why is there no mention of MDF in the wiki yet? It seems like 90% of projects here use MDF, so I thought there'd be at least a mention of it in the wiki by now. I found some nice tips on priming and sanding the mdf to a nice smooth surface here (http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Priming_MDF_RaisedPanel_Doors.html). If all goes well with whatever method I choose, I'll put together a quick wiki page on working with and finishing MDF. I'll probably buy some shellac primer and see how well it does on some scrap MDF to start with. Or I might just go and ask my paint dept, but every time I ask them something I end up sounding like an idiot somehow *shrug*
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You can't fill an edge like that. You'll have to reform it using Bondo. Luckily that's not a complicated thing, just takes a bit of practice to get a feel for Bondo.
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Another thing, I was at the local arcade last night and they've got two Ms.Pac cabs and a Galaga. I noticed that the tip of the front that I took the chunk out of isn't pointed like I've got it; it's got about a 1/2" corner radius.
So maybe I'll just round it off and be done with it.
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Looks like this 15" LCD (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16824009077) would just about fit, but if the monitor is mounted vertically (I would think that's the way most people would want it) the viewing angle would be only 110
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I'll be cutting and bending the control panel for this sucker tomorrow. Here's my initial layout with one fire button (for leftys or rightys) and a Namco Reunion joystick.
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Here's a revised version cut from melamine. I wasn't 100% happy about some parts of the first one I did, so restarted the plans from scratch.
I threw the pieces together real quick to make sure everything fit like I hoped and it looks like I got everything right :cheers:
Sorry about the poor photos, my camera phone isn't exactly the best.
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That's Kool. :cheers:
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That plexi slot looks like it's going to work well.
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Yeah, I tested it out with a piece of 3/16" plexi (not cut down to size) and it slides in really nicely. I'm thinking I could probably use a similar slide-in style for an aluminum monitor mounting plate, I'll have to de-case a couple of old monitors and see which one to use first though.
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What size monitor do you think will fit?
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I have an old 15" monitor here with giant casing around it that I'm planning on mounting vertically in there (turning the monitor 90 degrees on its side for vertical games). I'm hoping a standard 17" monitor will also fit. According to Dell's measurements of their 773 series CRT's, one of those should fit fine horizontally, but I'm not sure about vertically without de-casing it.
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It's not just the CRT measurement, though. You also have to account for whatever mounting brackets will be used. The CRT is just the glass tube.
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I'm aware of that. When I say CRT, I mean a CRT based monitor, I'm not talking about just the CRT on its own.
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Any clue on how much T-molding will be neccesary for a cab like that ?
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Any clue on how much T-molding will be neccesary for a cab like that ?
About 20ft; and T-Molding.com sells it in 20ft lengths, so I got lucky there.
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I built a 75% scale pacman about a year and a half ago, so i wouldn't mind building a ms. pac / galaga version.
Are you going to sell kits?
Any more progress pics?
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I built a 75% scale pacman about a year and a half ago, so i wouldn't mind building a ms. pac / galaga version.
Are you going to sell kits?
Any more progress pics?
I'm seriously considering making a bunch of these once I'm 100% happy with the overall assembly design. I have one kit in the works for Chad that's pretty much good to go as it is, but I'd like to figure out the best way of getting a monitor in there. If all goes well, I'd like to make a bunch of different mini cabs and I have a few other cab designs in the works.
Hopefully I'll be doing a little more work on it tomorrow (assembling it, adding t-molding and figuring out the monitor).
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The biggest problem that I have run into building my mini PacMan as well as my full sized Galaga was the custom work that I had to do to figure out how to mount the monitor. If you aren't using a standard Arcade monitor with mounts on it, it's going to be a trial and fit situation each build... unless you use the same vga monitor each time... but then what happens if they stop making that monitor or change the design on you.
Jamie
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Yeah, I think I might be better off adding 1 1/4" inches to the overall width to give me a little more play when trying to fit a monitor in there (the internal width is 15 3/4" right now, I think 17" would give less headaches). It'll make the overall proportions a little off, but I don't think it'll be too noticeable.
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Or you could use a nontraditional mounting method.
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Or you could use a nontraditional mounting method.
Like duct tape? ;D
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Nothing wrong with Duct Tape!!!! :P
But what I like even better is Liquid Nails... That's what I used. I left the monitor in its housing and just liquid nailed boards to the sides. Then I put runners for it to slide down into. Easy in and easy out. My Mini Pac is 15 3/4 inside dimensions and this is a 17 Dell... it was tight, but it fit centered. I did this same thing on my full sized Galaga with a freak'n heavy 21 inch.
(http://www.jamiemcshan.com/images/monitorfit2.jpg)
Jamie
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I built a 75% scale pacman about a year and a half ago, so i wouldn't mind building a ms. pac / galaga version.
Are you going to sell kits?
Any more progress pics?
I'm seriously considering making a bunch of these once I'm 100% happy with the overall assembly design. I have one kit in the works for Chad that's pretty much good to go as it is, but I'd like to figure out the best way of getting a monitor in there. If all goes well, I'd like to make a bunch of different mini cabs and I have a few other cab designs in the works.
Hopefully I'll be doing a little more work on it tomorrow (assembling it, adding t-molding and figuring out the monitor).
If you will be doing sets, I'm seriously interested in one.........but shipping to Europe might be expensive and risky :S
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That solution isn't far off from what I was thinking... it shouldn't be hard to put in some basic rails and then make a monitor housing for any given monitor. Doesn't have to be fancy, just sturdy, and you don't have to decase the monitor. Most CRTs last so damn long I can't see doing it more than maybe twice for the life of the cab.
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Quick update;
I made a few small adjustments to the side panels, glued the recesses and clamped them together. I also cut the monitor acrylic and a control panel.
Somehow my measurements for the front of the control panel were off by about one full inch :banghead:
I was going to add some angled aluminum as extra re-enforcement on the inside, but forgot to buy screws :cry:
(http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/4792/hpim1553sy3.th.jpg) (http://img242.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hpim1553sy3.jpg) (http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2436/hpim1552sz7.th.jpg) (http://img242.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hpim1552sz7.jpg) (http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/9862/hpim1551vo0.th.jpg) (http://img241.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hpim1551vo0.jpg)
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Nice... coming along nicely.
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I removed the clamps earlier this-morning and the thing is rock solid now. The Titebond glue I used worked wonders! I don't even think I need to add re-enforcement to the inside, but I think I'll put in a little anyway just to be on the safe side.
I double-checked my control panel measurements and everything seems to be right. I think it just needs a little more bending to fit right.
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Sweet. Almost ready for mass production and Walmart shelves.
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I picked up some 'cam and post' kits at Rockler, so when I do make another kit it can be slapped together using glue and a screwdriver without a need for any clamps or extra re-enforcements.
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I have no idea what that is and Google isn't helping.
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'Cam and post' or 'cam and dowel' is the usual assembly method for mass produced self-assembly furniture kits, I'm sure you've seen them plenty of times in furniture kits from Ikea, Walmart, Target etc.
Strangely enough, it is really hard to find them online.
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Oh, yeah, I've seen those. I have some higher end stuff that use those in places.
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If shipping didn't cost an arm and a leg I would be interested in buying kit too.
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I've been crazy at work and haven't had time to make any more progress on this. I have revised the plans slightly, making the interior width 16 1/2" inches, so it'll be a little easier to get a 17" monitor in there.