Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: MaximRecoil on July 11, 2006, 06:44:22 pm
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The original Nintendo/Sanyo monitors in my Punch-Out machine are okay, one is a little better than the other but I'd love to have brand new monitors.
Are there any new 19" standard resolution monitors that you can buy that will physically bolt up to a Punch-Out cabinet without modification? The Happ Vision Pro seems to be popular and cheap, and the horizontal mount one has side brackets similar to a Sanyo; how would that work?
If that wouldn't work, what are the options? Has anyone ever put a standard monitor in a Sanyo frame? What is involved with that? I'd imagine you'd have to drill some holes to mount the different style chassis from the standard monitor to the Sanyo frame, is that right?
Will the color inverter board from a Sanyo work on a standard monitor?
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The bolt hole pattern/spacing on a standard horizontal mount (a.k.a. 'shelf mount') should line up just fine with the existing Nintendo monitor mounting brackets attached inside the cabinet. I know for a fact that the "universal" mount monitors will NOT fit.
The video inverter board originally supplied with your Sanyo monitor (and the replacement/reproduction inverter boards too) will work with a standard monitor. The inverter board originally got it's power from the Sanyo monitor's main board, but for your purpose you can power it from the +12 volts on your game power supply.
Remember that your original Sanyo monitor also contained the audio amplifier for your gameboard sounds so you're gonna need an amplifier if you want sound. The monitor also operates on 100 volts and needs an isolation transformer. There's already a 120 to 100 volt stepdown isolation transformer in your cabinet. In general modern monitors that have a built-in switching style power supply operate on as low as 90 volts perfectly fine.
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Thanks for the reply Ken. It is good to know that a new standard monitor can plug into the existing 100V outlets in the cabinet and work fine. I was expecting I'd have to tap into 120V. This shouldn't be very difficult at all if I decide to go that route.