Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: MARINE1142 on June 08, 2006, 07:12:40 pm
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Any sug on how to paint the cab? Do you primar it first with what kindof primar then after you primer can you still ad some wood bondo and sand it down and primar again?
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Simple answer, If MDF, then primer (KLEZ)... get it tinted to the color of the final paint.
I would bondo first, but not much experience there.
For more detailed answer, click search, type paint...
;)
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Ooh Rah!
As for the paint - you have a couple options ahead of you - first off - what kind of cabinet is it? Is there any existing paint?
What kind of finish do you want?
As for the bondo - you will want all the heavy bondo work out of the way before you primer. After primer, if you find a few small spots that need to be filled - wood putty always worked for me.
The question you should be asking is - oil or latex? Foam roller or paint gun? Do a bit of searching and you'll find enough information to keep you busy for a while. There isn't a "right" way to do it.
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I have been wondering this also because I hurd MDF is paint ready.
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Preparation is the key to a good paint job
2ND key is light sanding between coats.
Lastly a powered spray gun helps a treat
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OOH RAH!
I have MDF and was going to primary it with white primar from lowes i think is called kliz or something but the final color i m not sure yet defently black and something also most of the cracks and screw holes are filled with wood puddy but when i primare it and find some spots i miss or a hole or two i just want to make sure i can fill it sand it and primar it again with out it have a different shade and the end. oh yea i was thinking high gloss paint i think?
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I like high gloss - you'll see lots of opinions on that too!
I use kilz2 in the blue can. My buddy used the gold can and had some issues - we aren't sure if it's the primer that caused the issue or what, but he started over with the blue can.
Latex or Oil? And - wheres the pics?!
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Ok, this is coming from a guy in the thich of painting.
1. You DO want to prime. Prime, sand, prime, sand. I had beter luck with Kilz normal than I did with the oderless.
2. Have the paint guy tint your primer. Being that it is primer you can not tint beyond a certain point. But at least it is a grey rather than a blinding white.
3. Use foam rollers. I used the onse that say it is for ultra smooth surfaces. I tried a napp roller at someones suggestion. Now I have to totally sand and paint a 3rd coat as I have little nap hairs all over it.
4. While sanding use your hand to check for smoothness. The color of the sanded surface is decieving. You will feel the rough spots.
5. AND I AM NOT KIDDING! WEAR A FACE MASK! That much paint sand is not good for anyone. I don't care if you are a marine.
6. Priming and painting take much longer than expected. This is ok. get over it.
7. Paint makes surfaces very slick. If you will be putting the cab up on saw horses or other something that will get it off the floor, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, USE CAUTION!
LINK (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.msg533423#msg533423)
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Thank your for all the good advice I new there was more to painting this cab then just buy some gloss paint and slap it on. I will get some pics up as soon as i can find my camera the old lady lost it but she has not told me yet.
I think i bought the white can that says oderles the can is misleading because it says it blocks oders and seals and it great for oil or latex paint but the can below it which said kilz contractor says ones good for latex the other for oil but i will try the can i got as see what happends that for the advise on the mask would not of used one. Thanks again everyone.
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3. Use foam rollers. I used the onse that say it is for ultra smooth surfaces. I tried a napp roller at someones suggestion. Now I have to totally sand and paint a 3rd coat as I have little nap hairs all over it.
True! Foam roller your paint on. (unless it's oil and you have an air compressor and paint gun)
5. AND I AM NOT KIDDING! WEAR A FACE MASK! That much paint sand is not good for anyone. I don't care if you are a marine.
lol!
7. Paint makes surfaces very slick. If you will be putting the cab up on saw horses or other something that will get it off the floor, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, USE CAUTION!
LINK (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.msg533423#msg533423)
Might I suggest using a furniture dolly to put your cab on? They only cost around 10 or 20 bucks and allow you to move your cabine with ease. Or perhaps, put your cabinet on wheels to begin with. I just started my 2nd cab and I've put it on a furniture dolly and it has really helped.
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3. Use foam rollers. I used the onse that say it is for ultra smooth surfaces.
I concur here. Be sure you get good, thick paint if you use these, though. If you use cheap paint, you will end up with air bubbles form the foam, not matter how slow you go.
For instance, using cheapass Lowe's Enterprise, bubbles galore. When I switched to Behr Premium, hardly any. Cheap paint is no bargian!
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Might I suggest using a furniture dolly to put your cab on? They only cost around 10 or 20 bucks and allow you to move your cabine with ease. Or perhaps, put your cabinet on wheels to begin with. I just started my 2nd cab and I've put it on a furniture dolly and it has really helped.
Yup it's on wheels.
For instance, using cheapass Lowe's Enterprise, bubbles galore. When I switched to Behr Premium, hardly any. Cheap paint is no bargian!
I used Rustolium Satin black and love the color and finish.
Hey Marine1142, be careful of full gloss. Even with satin it is pretty shiney. With full gloss black, you may be making a mirror.
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Well i put the primer on finally. I m going to sand it with 200 or 220 frit sand paper i heard real quick with a sander just to get the rought out of it then primer it again then sand then i want to roll the paint on and use a brush for the corners are my only option is to use latex? No mentions rolling on oil just spary it can you roll and hand brush oil and look good? painting the cab satin black
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Definitely use oil! Here is oil based satin black (Rustoleum) I rolled on with a smooth 9" roller after sanding with 220 grit.
(http://tok.home.comcast.net/dynamo/repaint.jpg)
It was actually my second attempt... I screwed up the first time by trying the second coat before the first has fully dried and got some roller marks in the base coat.
It was the first time I had used a roller on a cab, and the results were really good.
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That looks great. I was tring to have this cab together by late sat. Do you think if i put the second coat of primer on tonight then sand it tomorrow and the base coat of satin black you think by the end of the day it would be dry enough for the second coat or m i rushing it. The temp here is pretty hot its about 104 if that helps
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For best results, I recommend you follow the directions on the paint can. They'll probably tell you to wait at least 24 hours between coats. If you want the paint to look nice in the long term, it is best to let the coats dry and cure before adding more paint.
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DONT RUSH!!!!
I have learned too many times. (You'd think I would learn).
I know you want to get this together and play, but slow, and steady my friend. You don't wanna wreck it and have to sand it down and start again.
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My cab was still a little tacky after 4 hours. I did the second coat early because I had it out in the driveway and it looked like it was going to rain. Really stupid mistake.
That second time around is just a single coat because I had a nicely sanded basecoat to paint over. :hissy:
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Too late. damn it. Went home yesterday ready to sand and primer again and the cab looks like hell the primer was thick in some places thin in others and you can see very clear the roll marks and brush marks. Tried to sand it down a little went through a lot of sand paper due to it pluging the sand paper up sad the hell with and painted it anyway with satin black and just like the base coat you can see the strokes very clear. Damn it ..
dont know what to do now?
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Pretty much the same problem I had. Just sand it and repaint it. I just try to keep in mind that the paint isn't going to hide anything. If you can see it, or even feel the imperfections with your hand, you're going to see them in the paint. This is particularly true of black.
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Any sug on what grit to use the courser the better? Tok how long it take you to sand and primer again?
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Yes, sand and reprime and WAIT THIS TIME!!!
I sanded my 2 primer coats with 220 grit paper. I used a sander to do so. It really made the job go much faster. (Ryobe CornerKat $29.00 home Depot). use your hand while sanding to feel the cab. There will be rough spots you may not be able to see. I primed and sanded twice. This gave me a very smooth surface to start my painting with. I used oil and tossed the foam roller after each application. It was a little costly, but it worked.
BTW the primer was very rough and very thick. The paint is exactly the opposite.
I had to learn patience. Also, do not leave your cab near any lights. Bugs like light. Bugs stick to paint. Bugs will wreck your nice new paint job.
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Any sug on what grit to use the courser the better? Tok how long it take you to sand and primer again?
I got carried away on my first cab. Painted it without sanding down the brush strokes. Ended up redoing the whole thing over. Part of the learning curve I suppose.
Slow and steady!
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When I repainted mine, I sanded the original coat with 220 grit discs using a random orbital sander. Didn't cut all the way through the paint, and didn't prime. Just got it sanded smooth and wiped with alcohol.
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The steps I take when I paint anything is to thoroughly clean it first to remove oil grease etc. etc. Then sand with 200 or 220 grit production sandpaper ( it doesn't clog easily). Then wipe down with a clean cloth and then a Tack cloth. Remember that the paint will show any imperfections so get them out BEFORE you apply your paint . I use regular KILZ primer not the low odor type. Once you get the primer sanded after applying let it sit up at least 24 hours to cure. Then sand again and clean and remove dust and dirt. Then apply your paint I use Rustoleum oil-base with great success the level of gloss is up to individual taste. I use a sponge type roller to eliminate any chance of residue of the regular roller covers coming of in my paint. I would apply 2 coats sanding between with 400 grit sandpaper.
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I'm in the middle of this myself. I also am using 1/4" nap foam rollers kilz odderless and rustloem black satin.
I only used 1 coat of primer and probably should have used two. I have not been happy. All imperfections show (putty from countersinks) and I have sanded the 1st coat off 3 times already. This is really frustrating! To date I have one side that is looking pretty good. The other is still looking like monkey %$#@! I have trouble with applying the paint too thick. It just seems that this stuff won't spread with out a heavy hand. Unfortuantly this causes the paint to come out thick.
I even tried using my Dad's Wagner sprayer this weekend and due to my inexperience it looks terrible!
I think for the money I have spent on primer, paint, rollers. mineral spirits, acetone, and sand paper I could have easily taken it somewhere for a professional job.
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I'm in the middle of this myself. I also am using 1/4" nap foam rollers kilz odderless and rustloem black satin.
I only used 1 coat of primer and probably should have used two. I have not been happy. All imperfections show (putty from countersinks) and I have sanded the 1st coat off 3 times already. This is really frustrating! To date I have one side that is looking pretty good. The other is still looking like monkey %$#@! I have trouble with applying the paint too thick. It just seems that this stuff won't spread with out a heavy hand. Unfortuantly this causes the paint to come out thick.
I even tried using my Dad's Wagner sprayer this weekend and due to my inexperience it looks terrible!
I think for the money I have spent on primer, paint, rollers. mineral spirits, acetone, and sand paper I could have easily taken it somewhere for a professional job.
Since you are going with black have you looked into using laminate? I laminated my Mame cabinet and loved it. It was very simple and the finish ends up being next to perfect and very durable (think kitchen countertop). I'm currently restoring an old Nintendo cabinet to a Donkey Kong. I'm painting this and while I'm not having quite the trouble you seem to be, I still would of laminated it if I could find a color anywhere close to Donkey Kong Blue.
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3. Use foam rollers. I used the onse that say it is for ultra smooth surfaces.
I concur here. Be sure you get good, thick paint if you use these, though. If you use cheap paint, you will end up with air bubbles form the foam, not matter how slow you go.
For instance, using cheapass Lowe's Enterprise, bubbles galore. When I switched to Behr Premium, hardly any. Cheap paint is no bargian!
I have heard different opinions on the quality of Behr paints. I usually do use the enterprise paints, as I'm not rich ;D. I decided to use Behr Premium Ultra for the last room I repainted to know for myself. I was thoroughly dissapointed in it. After 2 cans of paint, the room still looked like crap. I finally had to go back to Lowes and buy good old reliable Enterprise semi-gloss, and paint over my $50 dollars worth of Behr. Now the room looks great, but I am still pissed royally.