Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: vizzinni on May 08, 2006, 10:08:13 pm
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I'd like to attempt to glue the pieces back together on my broken Championship Sprint steering wheel assembly. Can anyone tell me what kind of glue is best for this type of material (hard plastic)? Or what type of glue definitely is not the one to use?
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I'd like to attempt to glue the pieces back together on my broken Championship Sprint steering wheel assembly. Can anyone tell me what kind of glue is best for this type of material (hard plastic)? Or what type of glue definitely is not the one to use?
I would use some longer setting epoxy. The longer the set time the stronger the hold
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK303&P=7
Some types of pastics seem to be "unrepairable" so you might want to test it out first before you start mixing a large batch up. The smell really gets to me.
Hope this could be some help, let us know what you finally used to repair it tho
mj147
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Thanks. If I don't get any other ideas I'll give this stuff a shot. I didn't realize that longer set times equals better adhesion, so that's good to know.
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I get good results from Gorilla glue. :)
A good glue for plastic will depend on the type of plastic, really. If you've got a acrylic plastic, something like superglue, or model glue would be best, as it actually softens the plastic and melts the edges together. If you've got something like polyetheline or nylon plastic, you'll want an epoxy that will stick to the plastic and then solidify.
Try putting a little drop of super/model glue on the plastic (not onthe edge) and wait for it to dry. If the glue sits on the plastic and hardens, and you can chip it off, then use an epoxy. if it "soaks in" and becomes part of the plastic, then use it to repair the break, and use it sparingly.
But it's tough to beat Gorilla Glue. :)
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looks like you could use Hard-as Metal gook. It could be purchase on an Auto Store. Clean and put small holes on the Base Plastic and put the gook underneath. just my 0.2c
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looks like you could use Hard-as Metal gook. It could be purchase on an Auto Store. Clean and put small holes on the Base Plastic and put the gook underneath. just my 0.2c
Like.... you realize you just said a deragatory term.... twice? They don't really call it "Hard-as Metal gook" do they? I mean... maybe goo or goop, but I can't see any company agreeing to the word "gook". :laugh2: This is just too funny. Whats next?
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looks like you could use Hard-as Metal gook. It could be purchase on an Auto Store. Clean and put small holes on the Base Plastic and put the gook underneath. just my 0.2c
I think you've just helped me come up with a clan name.
<HMG>
Yeah. Thats tough. I think for my emotional hardship you owe me a spinner. ;D
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I get good results from Gorilla glue. :)
A good glue for plastic will depend on the type of plastic, really. If you've got a acrylic plastic, something like superglue, or model glue would be best, as it actually softens the plastic and melts the edges together. If you've got something like polyetheline or nylon plastic, you'll want an epoxy that will stick to the plastic and then solidify.
Try putting a little drop of super/model glue on the plastic (not onthe edge) and wait for it to dry. If the glue sits on the plastic and hardens, and you can chip it off, then use an epoxy. if it "soaks in" and becomes part of the plastic, then use it to repair the break, and use it sparingly.
But it's tough to beat Gorilla Glue. :)
I put a drop of super glue and a drop of Gorilla glue onto the plastic. After a couple hours, the super glue still has not hardened, but it is clearly softening the plastic. I expected it would've hardened by now. ???
The Gorilla glue is still soft but is not really adhering to the material.
I think I'll buy some epoxy next and give that a shot. Or some hard-as-metal gook ;)
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I'm guessing another option is to use a wooden spacer (or wooden CP if you're not going to put it back in the original) :blasphemy:.
The round plastic spacer ring (the thing that caused the circle on the metal plate in your picture) puts a lot a pressure on a thin area that you're regluing. The original plastic spacer is almost 3/4" tall.
If you used wood, the hole could be cut/drilled so the plastic piece fits more exactly. This way some of the unbroken part in between the screws can rest on the wood. Relieving some of the pressure from the reglued parts.
I never tried the wood route before, but I think I'm going to go use it with my super/championship sprint assembly broken just like yours. When it's done in "2012". ;D :-[