Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: mccoy178 on April 20, 2006, 10:03:02 pm
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Since this is my first attempt at working with metal, I thought a little tutorial could help future noobs.
First, I mounted my artwork to the 16 gauge aluminum:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=46211;image)
I then cut the dog ears off the control panel and the edges to pretty it up using this tool:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46376;image)
I purchased a 3/4" greenlee punch that actually has an inside diameter of 1 1/8th". In order to use the punch, a 3/4" bolt is used to pull the two halfs together to finish the hole. The following pictures are of the greenlee punch new and the drill press with the drill bit ready for action. On a side note, while drilling the holes, there was some minor marks made on the art from hot shavings. This could probably be avoided with a clear piece of plastic over top for protection.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46378;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46372;image)
Here is a pic of the holes after predrilling is done:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46370;image)
Here is the greenlee punch on a sample piece. I used a 1" wrench to tighten the two sides together. It worked like magic!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46374;image)
NOTE: 1 1/8th is not big enough for leaf switch buttons. I used a drill bit to hollow out the holes big enough to get the buttons to fit.
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Here is the cp after the punches were made. The extra material is just little pieces of the artwork.
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Nice job.
But what is that drum major doing with himself on top of your buttons? ;D
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he is very athletic! I'll leave it at that.
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I used a greenlee on my cp also (it's awesome). Just one question/comment... wouldn't you have been better off putting the artwork on after the holes were punched?
I guess it might not even matter. Anybody else have a comment on that?
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I used a greenlee on my cp also (it's awesome). Just one question/comment... wouldn't you have been better off putting the artwork on after the holes were punched?
I guess it might not even matter. Anybody else have a comment on that?
I would think the artwork served as a guide on where to make the punches. I wouldn't do it any other way - I can see me measuring, doing the punches, ok now time to put on the artwork. Dammit! They don't line up!!!
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This is the way I do it:
Strip the control panel bare. Remove all traces of old control panel overlay/graphics. Remove old glue, too.
If the new CPO is too wide and/or too tall then trim approximately to fit and leave a good half inch excess all the way around.
Center the overlay and temporaily tape it in place. Now scribe the hole positions on the metal panel.
Remove the overlay and NOW punch the holes in the panel.
Here's a tip to make punching easier and keep the punch sharp: Drench the punch dies and bolt in WD-40 before each punching operation. It'll cut like butter through that panel.
I have built hundreds of control panels (wood and metal, mostly metal ones) over the years and I punch the holes first in the metal before an overlay goes on.
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Since it is 48" piece of art and I kept the templates on the art, I decided to mount it first. If I would've had a clear piece of plastic on top(literally almost anything), the process would've been perfect. When I received the art from Scott, it was not perfectly flat on the paper backing, so I couldn't just lay it on the metal and scribe the location of the holes.
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I used a dremel tool and bees wax to widen the holes to the necessary width. Worked like a champ and took about thirty minutes. The holes are nice and clean. I had the 3" trackball machined out with a milling machine. It was very neat and quick.
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Here is the cp with the buttons sitting in place.
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Looks nice. Excellent work. :applaud:
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Thanks for the pics, I was wondering how those things work!
Those starter holes look huge, do they make a punch that allows a smaller diameter starter hole? I don't need to make any extra holes right now, but when I do I didn't realize I would have to buy a new drill bit as well as a punch.
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Yes, the pilot hole for the 1-1/8" (a.k.a. 3/4" Conduit) hole punch requires a 3/4" hole.
I have TWO Greenlee punches for doing the control panel holes: a punch that punches the 3/4" pilot hole (which in itself requires a 3/8" hole and I already have a 3/8" drill bit) and the 1-1/8" punch.
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Thanks for the pics, I was wondering how those things work!
Those starter holes look huge, do they make a punch that allows a smaller diameter starter hole? I don't need to make any extra holes right now, but when I do I didn't realize I would have to buy a new drill bit as well as a punch.
the greenlee radio chassis punches i have require only a 3/8" pilot hole for the punches around the 1 1/8" range. Just depends on the model of punch I suppose.