Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: AMDman13 on March 31, 2006, 08:18:18 pm
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Okay, so I scored today and found a local Wilsonart warehouse that sells this stuff at about 1/2 the price as HD. Looks like I'm going with laminate! :)
My question is what finish are people using for black? They have #1 which is a high gloss finish. #7 texture gloss and #60 Matte textured with moderate reflective quality.
Any feedback or opinions would be great.
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I use a textured gloss and like the results. Not too crazy about painted cabs unless you have a good quality spray gun.
John
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Textured gloss is what I was thinking thanks! I have 3/4" MDF and I already cut the T-molding slot using a 1/16th slot. Only trouble is from what I read to get perfect results I need 13/16" T-Molding which uses a 7/64th slot.
Does anyone know if this will fit in a 1/16th slot?
Thanks again for the response!
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Textured gloss is what I was thinking thanks! I have 3/4" MDF and I already cut the T-molding slot using a 1/16th slot. Only trouble is from what I read to get perfect results I need 13/16" T-Molding which uses a 7/64th slot.
Does anyone know if this will fit in a 1/16th slot?
Thanks again for the response!
If it doesn't, you can always raise/lower the bit to cut the slightly wider 7/64" slot.
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I just used crystal black on mine, I think it was textured gloss. My laminate thickness is like 1/16 so I don't think it will be noticeable. I also laminated the inside and outside, I was told since I used the thin stuff (cabinet grade) if I didn't do both sides it might bow. Better safe than sorry. Here the link to my site with some pics
http://www.theseashore.us/staticpages/index.php?page=ArcadeCocktailTable
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I make countertops and I can tell you stay away from the -01 finish in black. It will show every fingerprint and scratches very easily. The 60 finish will look good. There is a -90 finish that is called crystal and it's it has an extra coating which is really tough.
In reality we recommend that customers actually choose one of the black pattern finishes. Graphite Nebula 4623-60 would be an awesome color for a cabinet.
Take a look at it if they have some on hand. By the way this stuff should cost you about $1.30 per S.F. if you are really buying it from a distributor.
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toolaa, thanks for the advice! That's great to hear from a professional. The 60 is on special right now for .79 post and .69 vert. Which is an awesome price. I was leaning toward 07 which is the textured gloss will it be any better finger print wise? Also will vert be okay for a cab or should I go with the post. Your recommendation would really be appreciated. Thanks again!
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Also be aware that there are two grades, vertical and standard. Vertical is .028 thick (about 1/32") and standard is .048 ( a little less than 1/16"). You should consider this when determining what thickness MDF to use and what width of T Molding.
John
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Are you going to do both the inside and outside? Like I said in my previous post I was told to do both to prevent it from bowing. Not sure if it's true or not but better safe than sorry.
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Personally I do both sides. I use 5/8" MDF and then the standard grade which is .048 thick on both sides comes to a total thickness of .721. Since the desired 3/4" is .750 the .721 leave you about .015 per side to trim the T-Molding making for a perfect looking job. This is the way I do it.
Just my 2 cents,
John
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I did a short article on laminates:
http://www.gopodular.com/support_articles/melamine_vs_laminate_arcade_enclosures.htm (http://www.gopodular.com/support_articles/melamine_vs_real_laminate_arcade_enclosures.htm)
It was just uploaded last night. It's aimed more towards melamine vs laminate, but it has most of what what discussed here.
I've found that vertical grade laminate scratches easier than horizontal.
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Bowing won't be an issue with a game cabinet because the cabinet is structurally rigid. Is that what your concern is?
I use a lot of laminate on many games, and I use both types, the thicker type and the vertical grade. It just depends on the application, and if the extra thickness will be an issue or not.
I wouldn't use a patterned type, ever. That sounds like a great way to make a video game look like a cheap countertop, or worse, one of those horrible contact paper covered MAME cabinets. Go with a solid color.
For black, I use the Matte finish, however it does show fingerprints pretty easily. That has only been an issue on one cabinet, and all it takes is some Windex to remove it (I Windex the glass on my games routinely anyway).
Wade
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Thanks Wade. I have decided to go with the matte finish. Can't beat the price, plus not as many finger prints. I picked up a sample from HD it appears to be the thicker type. I will sit it flush on the cab and check t-molding clearance. I originally had planned to paint. My cab is 3/4 and the molding is the same.
I was wondering if "booing" was some kind of techie laminate talk... ;). I will probably paint the intermost portions of the cab as all of my support strips are in place using brads and Titebound wood glue. So probably speaker shelf, coin door, and sides at least. May do back panels and top, but am undecided.
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Turns out that my sample is just a tad too thick in some areas. Now I can either use a sharpie to color the edges, but I have 4 children and I know somehow they will get something caught on the edge and that will could turn out very ugly. My other options are: #1) Go over my slots a little in those areas a bit more with the router and use some hot glue to fix. #2) Go with thinner vert laminate which is not as structurally sound. #3) Sell the 3/4 T-molding and buy some 13/16" which uses a smaller slot bit and will require me to glue all of the T-molding making the color choice a permanent one. :-\ Too many dang choices....
I'm leaning toward option #1. Any suggestions opinions?
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mine is like 1/16 if that.
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squirrellydw
Thanks for the post. This sample I got doesn't even appear to 1/16th I'd say close 1/32 maybe. How does the vert laminate seem. Pretty durable? What made you decide on it?
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Option #1.
I'd say the slot is a little wavy and that's why the t-molding doesn't quite cover it in some spots. It can be a pain to get the slot correct, but when you get it done it looks like gold. We have a router dedicated to slot cutting so we don't have to adjust it. It took about an hour to get it set *exactly* in the right spot.
I would think you can use some hot glue when you lay the molding in if the slot is a little loose. I'd have some masking tape on hand to help hold it maybe? I don't know how long it takes for hot melt to setup.
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squirrellydw
Thanks for the post. This sample I got doesn't even appear to 1/16th I'd say close 1/32 maybe. How does the vert laminate seem. Pretty durable? What made you decide on it?
Seems durable enough for me. Just be carefull when you are working with it, if it kinks it will break. Once its on though it seems very durable. The reason I went with it is because I know someone that works with this type of thing a lot and he recommended it. He is also the one that told me I should do the inside as well.
I should be able to get my cocktail table put together today, so I will have some more pictures of it.