Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Timoe on March 15, 2006, 07:50:35 pm
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"Dweebs0r's Big Bad Bad Assked 2 player COntrol Panel"
Here is a new control panel I have just started.
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Where do the "o" and "k" buttons going?
How did you mock it up? Did you use software or just good old pencil and ruler?
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I started with the Custom Control Panel Designer software over at mameroom.com
http://www.mameroom.com/CPKD_info.asp
I know what controls are going into it and I want to make it all fit comfortable but not be too large. I am not making this control panel for myself. It
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here are my printed templates for drilling.
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Woo hoo! Its for me! :o
I feel like a kid on Christmas who gets to watch Santa build his new toy.
Thanks again, Timoe. I owe you big time.
-Dweebs
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I bought a sheet of lexan today also, but I didnt have time to get into it :P
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Another shot of the cp top
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Haha,
Wives. Cant live with 'em, cant get clean underwear without 'em.
How much the lexan set you back? Expensive?
-D
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Medium. They didnt have the 32" x 44" that I wanted so I had to get the next size up, 36" x 48" I think. So, I can use the other half for another project.
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"Dweebs0r's Big Bad Bad Assked 2 player COntrol Panel"
Here is a new control panel I have just started.
Reminds me of the Formula 1 Mclaren I once started building ;)
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Haha, ^
I went into the office this morning and found a box full o' loot.
(not all this stuff will be going into this panel, it has been included for dramatic effect)
I should provide a mini review of the TurboTwist later.
Right now:
The spinner top is silly. It is included for demonstration only.
The TurboTwist is ridiculously SOLID. Its a hearty device. I would not feel bad if I dropped it on the ground and accidentally stepped on it.
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This is the plan for the CP box
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Plan for the top.
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I just play tested the TurboTwist. It is set to the Z-axis. I set the analog sensitivity to "1" and found it to be very smooth in Caliber 50. Its not mine so, I'm not going to test it much more.
I think it will be nice to be able to plug the Trackball into the TurboTwist and have only two cables exiting the panel.
On my control panel there are 5 cables!!
I look forward to Powermame adjusting the Z-axis.
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Out of curiosity, are you going to put the 3.7 degree angle on the fron and back board tops? Or just considder it unneccesary?
-Stobe
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I have not yet calculated the angle of those pieces. I imagine it to be closer to around 7 degrees. But yes, the angle will be tight and flush.
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The top pick shows the carnage. I like the messy shots. I cant wait for the lexan mess.
The middle pick shows the top of the CPT clean. I made sure to draw the cutout. Last time I did this I cut the shape backwards. >:(
The bottom pic shows the underside of the CPT (control panel top). I included this shot for the wood freaks to show off my blow out, or lack there of. ;D
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Looking good Tim! Picture number 3 is now my desktop wallpaper.
I'm going to keep updating the picture as its nearing completion.
One question, since the initial order of parts will include the wrong color trackball, will it be difficult to access the ball to change it out later since the mounting plate will be laminated or can I just unscrew from the bottom and pull it off?
Thx,
-Dweebs
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oops I misunderstood your question. The ball and unit are easily accessible.
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Cool, I dont care about the mounting plate. I just want to be able to exchange the trackball for the correct color part in the future.
-D
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Hey Timoe,
What's the story here? Why are you building a sweet CP for Dweebs? Did I miss something?
Cheers,
KenToad
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He owes me money.
I sent my big italian mobster friends to his house and here we are.
:)
-D
Edit: j/k. Can you tell the Sopranos is back on??
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Dweebs0r,
Your artwork is in and here's what it looks like.
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another great job by www.mamemarquees.com
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Awesome! As a longtime fan of Spidey and Wolverine, that looks terrific.
The excitement of watching this is killing me!
-D
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Ok. I cut the lexan down to size. Its about 1/2" too large on all sides.
By the way, you can cut this stuff with a sledge hammer and it still comes out clean. I used my table saw. :P
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I'm only doing the track ball hole today. This is why the lexan is cut oversized.
I want to mount the trackball, then place the lexan on top so that I know the trackball lines up tight and even. I can shift the lexan around alittle if I need to. Then I'm going to clamp it down and rout the perimeter and the buttons.
Here, I'm drilling a pilot hole for my router. Then I put a flush trim on it.
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^ thanks to Atom Smasher for the trackball/lexan tip.
While I'm waiting for the trackball mounting plate I went ahead and routered the underside of the panel for the joysticks.
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I got the parts. Here's another sampling of parts that will be populating the playfield.
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I'm always surprised when I see photos of the red trackball.
I will confirm that it does in fact look ugly in person when unlit.
I held it up to a fluorescent though and it looked great.
I will put a blue superbright cluster on it this weekend and snap off a few pics.
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I'd also like to try an orange LED on this thing.
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T-bones T-nut technique:
I used to use Gorilla Glue on my t-nuts only to break the bond when I crank down on my mounting screws.
Not this time.
Step one - push in the tnuts
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As you can see in the picture above, I have covered the joystick holes with tape to prevent dust from getting in there.
Step 2 Mount the Joystick Bases and over tighten the mounting screws. This helps to bring the T-nuts all the way down before you cover them.
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Step 3 - cover up the t-nuts.
I have decided to use drywall joint compound here instead of wood putty. I feel it will give me a harder finish than the wood putty.
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Give me 30minutes to let that dry before the second coat of drywall mud.
Heres the trackball situation.
I put the mounting plate on the CP top and installed the trackball to make sure that everything fits. Then I placed the Lexan over the top to check the tolerance. (the space inbetween the trackball bezel and the plexi) this comes out to approx 1/32"
So its pretty good.
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I will trace around the trackball mounting plate and route to the pencil marks.
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photo update
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Dweebs,
I started on the box. I also cut the tmolding slot. Later this week I will laminate the front and back pieces then attach the sides and finally laminate the sides.
You can see the 2x material used at the corners. Once I calculate the angled cut on the front and back pieces I will match that angle on the drill press and drill a 3/8" hole 3/4" deep into the top of the 2x corner braces.
I will be glueing dowels into these holes. The plan is for the dowel to be at a perfect 90 degrees to the angled corner brace top.
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Nice work documenting this, Timoe. Also, great idea about the tape over the joystick holes. I always get dust down in the works.
Cheers,
KenToad
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Thanks ^. I dont have a website so this BYOAC place is a great place for me to upload stuff. Then I can just send a link to a friend for them to be able to check it out.
Also, its great for Dweebs0r, so he knows I'm making some progress at least.
I just put my angle tool thing-a-ma-jig on one of the box side pieces and its telling me that the angle is 1 degree. ??? I'm gonna eyeball the blade tilt on my table saw and see what that comes out to.
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Looking good. I dont think youre gonna be able to let this puppy go at the end.
-D
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indeed, i have the same fear ;D
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I'll tell you what, I'll sell it to you. $600 sounds about right?
Whaddayasay? >:D
-Dweebs
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I started the formica for the control panel box.
in the first pic you can see that I used my dremel with cutting disc to make the basic cuts in the formica. I sorta scored it then broke it along the line.
in the second pic, thats the contact glue right after application. It goes on milky white and I let it dry out until it turns clear then I slap the pieces together and roll over it with a rubber roller.
The glue has a really distinctive smell. ...i think I'm starting to like the smell. Maybe its because I really like working with this material :p
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note: I'm not like, sniffing the glue or anything, well at least not yet....
Heres a couple more shots of the formica after I routered off the excess.
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Cut the angles on the front and back pieces as well as drilled for the dowels
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CP looks great plus i like the step by step
dm
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these are little mounting panels for Dweebs to bolt through to attach this thing to his cabinet. They also leave a space underneath for him to reach up and undo the panel clamps.... and to let the cords hang out to attach to his computer and what not.
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I made little 1/16" holes at the corners and up infront of the trackball. Then I took my countersink bit and put a teeny tiny countersink on the lexan..
BTW I drilled forward not in reverse both times
for the art I carefully cut a sliver off the backing material with an exacto knife and positioned the artwork. I used a moist rag to then smooth the artwork onto the panel. this material from mamemarquees is really something. It looks amazing and feels pretty cool after you install it too.
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I still need to install:
The t-molding
trackball
formica on the sides of the control box
all wiring
...but here's a preview...
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This thing really came out well. I am really pleased with how clean it looks in person.
I mean the cuts, the artwork application, etc.
The DING DANG dust when you put on the plexi/lexan is annoying. I thought I got it all before I put the overlay on last night only to discover this morning that I have to lift up part of the lexan to "dust"!
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Forgive the possibly obvious or n00b question, but can I get a quick rundown of parts used in this CP? Pretty please? And, don't know if I missed it or not, but are you planning on underlighting the buttons with LEDs? If so, what type and such?
Very cool project...can't wait to move into our new house this summer - that's when the wife will let me build whatever MAME project I can come up with cuz we'll finally have tons of room and garage space to build it in...<crosses fingers>
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Very cool project...can't wait to move into our new house this summer - that's when the wife will let me build whatever MAME project I can come up with cuz we'll finally have tons of room and garage space to build it in...<crosses fingers>
HA! me too! ^ this is my exact situation.
the parts are all supplied by Dweebs0r (some are by me)
Happ Competition 8-ways
J-stick, set to 4-way mode
Turbo Twist spinner from groovy game gear, spinner top from slikstik
Happ 3" blue trackball
Happ regular horizontal buttons'
the only LED or lighting in this thing will be the SuperBright LED cluster under the trackball.
and I think the rest of the info is in this thread somewhere.
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Just waitin' on a trackball. but here are some shots with the t-molding installed.
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It looks great! How do you install the T-molding without it showing "hammer dents?"
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rubber hammer
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I have a rubber hammer and I keep it on hand for t-molding installation but I rarely use it. I use a 1/16" slot cutter which is usually pretty tight for the t-mold. Its excessively tight when used on plywood but thats another panel.
For this one I really just used my thumb and sorta smoothed the tmolding into the slot from left to right.
edit: actually I learned not to use the mallet much from a Markrvp post about t-mold and flat spots.
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edit: actually I learned not to use the mallet much from a Markrvp post about t-mold and flat spots.
I think this demotivator sums up my projects pretty well:
(http://images.despair.com/products/demotivators/mistakes.jpg)
Dweebs0r:
You should be really happy. This looks like a top-notch A-Superduper control panel!
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Dweebs0r:
You should be really happy. This looks like a top-notch A-Superduper control panel!
"Really happy" doesn't really capture it completely. I am ecstatic!
This control panel is awesome! Unbelievable! I've drooled over others on this forum for a looong time. I have been wanting to purchase a SlikStik control panel for years but never have because of the money those things cost but in my opinion, this panel is miles ahead of a prefab-type panel. I cant thank timoe enough for agreeing to build this for me.
Trust me, with my woodworking ability this panel wouldn't have ever seen the light of day. I'm more of the computer geek type. :)
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Got the panel clamp and the wiring done. Everything works perfect.
the wiring job is pretty clean and tidy. The reason it looks alittle sloppy is the ground wires. I cut them all the same length because
A: it was faster and easier and
B: if Dweebs ever wants to change out a part he'll have a little slack in the wire and a little less chance of damaging something.
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Nice job, it looks great!
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Man, that wiring looks great. If you want to see sloppy wiring you should look at my Dynamo cabs wiring (the ipac is hanging loose in the cab if that gives you any indication). I havent been motivated to make it look better since I havent stopped playing it since it became playable.
-Dweebs
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The J-stick on this thing is awesome. I got it from miles2912 the guy with the "Vortex" cabinet.
I will definitely try a j-stick again.
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wow thats really nice how do i get you to build a cp for me? lol
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Dweebs,
here's a heads up
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wow thats really nice how do i get you to build a cp for me? lol
I have more posts than you. ???
trade some goods.....
or cash
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Dweebs,
here's a heads up
That's a beautiful 2 player panel but I have a couple of questions about the small one. What did you put on top of it? Plastic laminate? It looks kind of sunk in where the joystick bolt holes would be. Did someone forget to use the wood putty?? :dizzy:
Thanks.
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The little one was a bonus. It wasnt intended to be a super-duper nice lil panel.
It was kind of like a buy one, get one free deal. I'm going to use that lil one with the roms on my modded Xbox.
To answer your question about the covering, I believe its covered with Happs vinyl.
:)
-Dweebs
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The little one was my first completed panel. yeah, its pretty sloppy and I've learned a lot since then, both about wood working and BYOAC.
It is covered with Parts Express vinyl. The bottom is an original pelican box. The top was made from a template. The joysticks where undermounted into sloppy recesses. The location of the joysticks was not properly centered and did not even account for the box. So the the top has more over hang on the left side than the right.
And yeah, I used wood putty for the t-nuts. I also used Gorilla Glue on the t nuts because I was worried about them coming loose from the panel. Then I primered the whole top to receive the vinyl.
Well, when I attached the joysticks the bond from the gorilla glue broke when I over tightened the mounting screws and the wood putty sunk.,
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Thanks for the responses guys.
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my experience with that little panel is what prompted me to pre-mount the joystick bases on Dweebs0r's panel and to use drywall mud instead of that soft wood putty stuff.
It worked MUCH better.
edit: by premount I mean install the joystick base with the tnuts and tighten it down before you apply the filler. Then let the filler dry (over dry) and later remove the bases and then sand and prime
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I heard good things about fiberglass reinforced bondo as well. For mounting though why not try small machine screws counterbored a bit so they're below the surface? This is the way I do it so I have access to the joystick in case I ever need to change it.
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with tnuts the joysticks are interchangeable as well.
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Oh ok. You don't need to remove the top either do you? Very clever...
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When I finished the formica to formica corners there was a thin line of brown at the joint. I'm not sure if this was glue or the material. It was nice, thin and uniform but still, it was not black...
I just took a sharpie to it and it disappeared.
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So, you can see by the pictures that I'm missing something.
A trackball. The blue trackballs are not in season quite yet. I have an unripe red ball but that wont match the color scheme here.
It dawned on me last night that I have a blue trackball from last season that would work perfectly. Its almost never been used. The blue ball has the USB/PS2 harness on it which is undesirable. So I swapped the ...um, deals.
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Herr we go...
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Ahhhhh mang, I just playtested this thing. I gotta get one. Everything works silky smooth and
"I'm playing the best [robotron] of my life. Well it feels like it anyway."
I still have to adjust the Dial Sensitivity to (1) for the Z axis in PowerMame. But I almost couldn't stop myself in Iron Man Stewarts Super Off Road.
Here's the money shot of the trackball lighting
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For the trackball lighting, we went with a Super Bright 4-led cluster in blue. After several attempts at fabricating some mounting hardware for this thing I finally realized that I could screw it directly onto the trackball case, just like Happ does it.
I took the TBall box apart, took the ball out, flipped over the box and lined up the light cluster. I predrilled with a 1/16" bit. the screwed it in with some small pan head screws. Its perfectly positioned and sturdy.
I like using the optiwiz and cable. It makes for clean installation and removal. I think I really just like those white plastic molex style connectors though. I fabricated my own molex style cable for Dweebs to connect to his computer.
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Nice job all around Tim!
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A 3-week project. Wow!
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Good job on the CP Timoe!
The green clamps in your pics look just like mine...did you get them at Home Depot?
Xam
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Good job on the CP Timoe!
The green clamps in your pics look just like mine...did you get them at Home Depot?
Xam
Yes sir! at a buck or two a piece they are a sweet deal.