Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: scottyfryer on March 14, 2006, 09:50:38 am
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I picked up a Lucky 8 Lines machine off of ebay for 35 bucks and the monitor is toast. Looks like the tube is fried. So i picked up a Darius 1431 monitor from good will for 5 bucks, hooked it up and the only problem is that its wrapping the screen over itself. Is there anyway i can fix this? Only works if i only hook up one sync only as well.
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If this is a commercial gambling machine, it's outputing a standard video arcade signal and the gameboard is expecting to see a commercial arcade/video slot machine monitor connected. Why not repair the existing monitor in the machine?
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I know nothing of repairing then monitor, All i know is when i power it up the monitor doesn't turn on.. but i know the board now works since this monitor seems to work. there was one fuse on the board and the fuse looks fine..
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Make and model of the broken monitor?
If you don't know then good clear pictures of the rear of the monitor showing the main monitor circuit board would be a help. Don't forget dialup users like me can't handle large file sizes so keep the picture file small.
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Alright i'll take some pics tonight, I'm sure is saw Kortek or Kortex on it with a samsung tube. It's 13". But i'll take some pics tonight.
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Late model Kortek monitors usually have a white paper label attached to the rear of the neckboard with a model number like "KTN-2001" (as an example) printed on it. Look in the bottom of your cabinet in case it fell off and landed there.
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Here are 3 Pics i took with my Cell phone. Hopefully they are clear enough. I tried turning it on again last night to see if i could hear anything, but there is no noise.. Checked all the wires and fuses and they seemed ok. The power supply for the monitor is probably toast.. Looks like the oldest thing in the box.
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Looks definitely like a Kortek KT-1420A which sometimes has "T&E" or "KI-xx-xx" in the upper left corner of the circuit board. Most of the time a capkit brings it back to life as well as resoldering several bad solder joints on the monitor main board. Zanen Electronics capkit #501 fits this monitor perfectly, but you can also use kit number 520 which has 4 less components than kit 501.
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The KT-1420A has two fuses in the power supply section. There are several resistors in that area that can go bad causing a "no power up" condition.
In my picture of the power supply section, the circled areas are the resistors that go bad: R612, R610, R609, R608, and R602. I have removed the flyback cage to get a better picture of this area of the board.
R612 (mistakenly called out on the schematic as R610) may be rubber stamped "509" on it and it's actual value is 5 ohms @ 5 watts.