The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: mccoy178 on March 01, 2006, 05:00:44 pm
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:cheers:Pic of the day:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=104500;image)
Zakkk just notified me that I've been awarded a Mamey. How cool is that? When I started this project, I wanted it to be one for the ages, and I'm honored to see that even with the "doofey" sport theme, guys in the community still like it. Thanks fellas! :cheers:
http://www.mameworld.net/massive/NEWMAMEY/cabinet.htm (http://www.mameworld.net/massive/NEWMAMEY/cabinet.htm)
Also, Retro James notified me of the cabinets newest news article:
http://retroblast.com/newsitem.php?cid=1852 (http://retroblast.com/newsitem.php?cid=1852)
I've built five cabinets since discovering this hobby about a year and a half ago. I built two at xmas time for friends and family and they both had ledwiz's. I made the decision then and there that I am only building one ever again. So, I am finally starting an announcement thread well in advance to post my process from the beginning up through the end. I will start out by listing what I am planning on using and will update the list as things come along. This is going to be a bear. I will also start a thread announcing the creation of my jukebox. Here is the basic list:
1. Arcade monitorDecided after talking with HowardC to keep my 27" tv and use the component input. I ordered my dongle. - IN HAND!!! $250 + $30
2. 15" LCD monitor in the top similar to GTLive - Decided to go with 17" Acer LCD for $175 after tax!
3. LED Wiz - Received 3/8/06!!! $50
4. 4 Midway 49 ways with encoders - Received 3/8/06!!! $325
5. Keywiz for escape keys, coindoor, vpinball, and start buttons - IN HAND!!! $40
6. Use tokens instead of coin button - hidden coin button - Ordered token/quarter coin mechs 3/19/06 - $20
7. Impliment PowerMame
8. Add Spinner - Purchased two of RandyT's spinners 3/28/06 - $150 Delivered
9. PowderCoat cabinet - Bad news here. Looks like it's not available in my area. Regular paint it is. :(
10. Have add on steering wheel
11. Exceptional Artwork on CP and cabinet (Decided on black and white OSU themed art) - Proud to say I designed the overlay myself and I've sent the work to Scott at Mamemarquees - $75 shipped
12. 4 Person Coindoor that functions - Ordered from Divemaster 5/23 - $147 shipped
13. Custom Pause Screen
14. Dual Screen Support for second monitor - HowardC project ;D
15. N64 Doggles - ugh, that's going to be expensive
16. USB Hub for external controls - IN HAND!!!
17. Motion Detection Teaser - Need to find proper motion detector
18. Swappable P1 and P2 Spots (i.e. steering wheels, tron controls) - Decided not to go this route. No flight stick for me. :(
19. OSU themed Front End including music and movies - Need to figure out how to make layouts
20. Leaf switch buttons that Ponyboy just added. Bought 30 new and complete red translucent buttons for $55 shipped!!!
21. No Australian Parts! Oh wait, they never made any!
22. Upside down stool for when any of the PP guys come over. :-* (Stingray and the boys said they were in!)
23. The addition of light guns. Need to research as to outside of the act labs setup, what else is worth the money. - Ordered 1 LCD Recoil 3/25/06 - $51 - Purchased second one from Crashwg for $30 delivered.10/10/06
25. Use the new Ice buttons of Randy's with the leaf switch addition of Ponyboys - Went with all leafswitches. Sorry Randy! You'll just have to live with $125 of my money.
26. Light Leafswitch buttons - Ordered 26 LiteMite boards from Whammo - IN HAND!!! $86
27. Rotary dials and interfaces for two of the 49 ways - Paid Rdagger $39 for the interface
28. Decide what FE to use. I love Mamewah, but I need to check out DK and some of the others. I need to find out if customizable layouts are going to be a possibility.
29. Find out how to make exit key wait 2 seconds before quitting(Hate accidental exits!)Need to search for thread on this one. Think I'm going to use "P" button as a shift needed w/escape to exit.
30. Real Pinball Plunger for Pinmame - purchased from Tornadodotterry $25 5/4/06
31. Make indentations on CP for Pinball Flippers. - Done
32. Incorporate Beta Bright into marquee like current cabinet - IN HAND!!! $175
33. Make CP top out of metal - 16 gauge aluminum - $28 in hand
34. Block "O" cut outs for side art of cabinet - Same metal company will cut these for $100
35. 3" casters on bottom of cabinet - Have some from another cabinet. Finally, something free!
36. Red Light Cathodes behind side art
37. Wireless USB hub for internet connection (for server options and updating)- IN HAND!!! - $50
38. Logitech Z2300 speaker system - IN HAND!!! $50
39. Happs 3" Trackball w/translucent red ball(From Bob Roberts) and Optipac - IN HAND!!! $125
40. AMD Athlon64 3200+ to handle all my needs for the moment - Woot! I found an entire setup on Craigs list for $210 shipped!!!
41. 1000 gig of HD to handle all the memory - IN HAND!!! $350
42. 1 gig of Ram - IN HAND!!! $60
43. 4" Castors - Picked up from older cabinet - $0!
44. 3 Sheets of MDF board - $60
45. Build custom monitor bracket - $40 from Lowe's
46. Video card that supports the component dongle - purchased SAPPHIRE ATLANTIS RADEON 9600 Radeon 9600 128MB DDR AGP 4X/8X Video Card - $60 Shipped from NewEgg
47. One solid piece of plexiglass. 26"x48" - $65 in hand!
48. Ordered Marquee from MameMarquees - $35 shipped
49. Ordered TMolding from TMolding.com - $35 delivered
50. USB PCI card so computer will boot properly - $20
51. Spinner knobs from GGG with coin inlay - $50
52. Hand Carved Side art from Donkey_Kong and the Pine Princess - $225 shipped
Please note, some items came from my current cabinet. That makes the cost a little easier to live with.
:dizzy:Total to date: $3190 :dizzy:
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Cabinet section
Parts that I have:
Smart strip power strip
Happs Illuminated Triangle Button for Power On/Off
MDF is no problem
BetaBrite Sign for Marquee
4" Casters
4 person over/under coindoor
Plexiglass
Parts I need:
Motion detection parts
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Control Panel section
Parts that I have:
4 - 49 way midways controllers and wiring harnesses - $130
4 - GPWiz49 way interfaces #1,#2,#3, and #4 - $150
Powered USB hub - $20
Happs 3" Trackball - $75
3" red translucent trackball from Bob Roberts - $20
KeyWiz max - $35
LEDWiz - $50
OptiPac - $39 + s&h
26 LiteMite LED boards - $86 shipped
2 - GGG spinners - $150 shipped
26 - 1 5/8th Red Translucent Leaf Switch Buttons, harness, and leaf switches - $55 shipped
Mamemarquee overlay - $75 shipped
16 gauge aluminum for overlay - $28 in hand
Real Pinball Plunger - $25 shipped
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Computer section
5/10/06 - AMD 64 3200+ Asus K8V SE Deluxe 1GB Mushkin PC3200 - $210 Delivered
5/10/06 - SAPPHIRE ATLANTIS RADEON 9600 Radeon 9600 128MB DDR AGP 4X/8X Video Card - $60 shipped
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Software section
I'm going to start listing the emulators that I plan on having and the front end.
Emulators
Mame w/Zinc
NES
SNES
N64
GBA Advance
Atari 2600
PSOne
Sega Genesis
Pinmame
Turbo Graphix16
Front End
Mamewah and GameEx are at the top of the list right now.
For the time being, I'm going to use this section to list useful links that I may need. If you have any that may help, please post them in a reply.
This is really really badass. The sounds alone would be good for Mamewah.
The motion teaser you were talking about is here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43234.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43234.0)
First post has the program and sound pack
Original Thread w/ Idea and some tech information (I think)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42069.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42069.0)
Here is a great thread about how to build metal control panels:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=32328.msg278769#msg278769 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=32328.msg278769#msg278769)
Here is the thread that showed me how to get the keywiz to load on start up with my configuration:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=34895.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=34895.0)
Here is the link to the Powermame Wiki that details how to set up the lighting cfg so the lights will work properly:
http://www.powermame.com/pmwiki.php?n=Features.LEDWizOutputSetup (http://www.powermame.com/pmwiki.php?n=Features.LEDWizOutputSetup)
Here is the AHK for making the exit key 2 seconds:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=45340.msg431082#msg431082 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=45340.msg431082#msg431082)
How to make so you don't need a login with windows xp:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=61215.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=61215.0)
Mame Registry Tweaks for a cabinet:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=61266.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=61266.0)
Howards wrapper for Zinc:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=52607.0;all (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=52607.0;all)
How to make multiple HD's look like one:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=59858.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=59858.0)
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Awe, c'mon, post development as it happens like everyone else.
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I will, but I want to have it up front as well so it will be simple to see what went into this. :P
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even more cabinet lol :-X
pix ? ?
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The motion teaser you were talking about is here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43234.0
First post has the program and sound pack
Original Thread w/ Idea and some tech information (I think)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42069.0
I had filed this away but never got around to it :-\
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Noobs section
I've built five cabinets since discovering this hobby about a year and a half ago.
That sounds like ... mmm... one every three months. Now this is going to be one of two scenarios for noobs:
1. The noob who just bought his MDF sheets
"Great !! 3 months is nothing. Hand me that saw!"
2. The noob whose been staring at his half built cab for the past five months.
"Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!. Hand me that saw!"
btw.... good luck
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Well, I can tell you this much about my first cabinet. The building didn't take long at all. Getting the software figured out really really sucked. I luckily had a local guy hook me up and get me running. So initially, I was out the gate fast, but it took a long time to get to where I wanted to be. This time, the preparation will take a while as cost and time are limited at the moment, but once I get going, I expect this one to be big time. Like I said, I honestly expect this to be my last one. I don't think I can handle the stress of doing another. I always push my limits and that gets old after awhile. I can't help it. It's a motivating force I guess.
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Awe, c'mon, post development as it happens like everyone else.
Maybe Pixelhugger is his idol?
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What was HowardC's reasoning for using a TV? Howard is a great programmer, but not reknowned for his cabinet building skills.
I have all three of the major display devices: TV, Arcade Monitor (CGA), and Multisync Monitor (Betson 27" multisync). I would only use a TV if I already had an extra and couldn't beg, borrow, or steal enough money to buy the mulitsync.
My $.02.
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Well, after rapping with him in the chat room, I mentioned that I had been using a 27" flat screen w/s video and told him that I had components on the back of the t.v.. So he suggested that the quality of that picture would be very good. On a side note, I would use a computer monitor if I could to play everything, as I'm still in my twenties and want to have good vision into my thirties. All I'm saying is that I don't mind compromising the original look for a clearer one.
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Well, after rapping with him in the chat room, I mentioned that I had been using a 27" flat screen w/s video and told him that I had components on the back of the t.v.. So he suggested that the quality of that picture would be very good. On a side note, I would use a computer monitor if I could to play everything, as I'm still in my twenties and want to have good vision into my thirties. All I'm saying is that I don't mind compromising the original look for a clearer one.
Text still won't be great on a TV, no matter what you use. On the Betson Multisync, you can run Windows on a standard VGA card at 1024x768 (if that's what you want) and get perfect crystal clear graphics and text.
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Don't tell me that! ;D I'm gonna go do some pricing on those monitors. Geez, why in the world did you say that.
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Wow! Over $500! I just received the component dongle today, so I'm gonna give it a try and hopefully be able to live with it. ;) I think somehow I may be able to survive. It's gonna be hard, but $500, I'm just going to have to make it work.
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This is going to be one hell of a cab.
What's this Component dongle you speak of? I've got a 33" TV I'm using as my monitor, but I'm using S-Video.
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It's from ATI. It is a dongle that will convert the signal from the PC into component signal. It was about $35 after shipping. It will work with Radeon 9500, 9600, 9700, and 9800 series video cards. I know this cabinet is going to be expensive! I've been going through the parts list and man it's off the hook! But, this isn't my first rodeo, so I am fully understanding at the costs involved and what I am looking to do. I've been following this dang community non stop since I joined, and I feel I am making the best choices for what I like. BTW, would you guys go with one spinner or two? I am thinking one would be fine.
EDIT: Here is the link to the dongle:
http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967 (http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967)
Pic:
(http://shop.ati.com/buyatistore_assets/product_images/2537967.jpg)
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You can get the Betson for $425... well I can get it for that. If we get together this summer at -S' then maybe I could pick one up at Betson in Dallas and bring it to you.
Spinners - one should be sufficient for most games like Tempest and Blasteroids as they are alternating player. If you want to play two player simultaneous games like Championship Sprint (or Super Sprint), then two spinners would be neat. The second spinner would be pretty low on the priority list, though.
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I think I am going to go with one spinner. I may have to take out another mortgage to pay for the buttons and lighting. What an expensive option! Now, should I have a dedicated four way on my CP? That is the $64,000 question at the moment. I will already have a lot going on, would this be too much in your guys opinions? I plan on having a spinner and a trackball, but that is about it for extras. Anyone who has their spinner above their trackball have problems with Golden Tee? I could see how that could be a deal breaker.
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I had a spinner located above my trackball. Infact it was even off to the side alittle and I STILL smashed my fingers into it playing GT.
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This reply will compare the cost of my button options:
This combo: Ice Lightning button, RGB board and Leafswitch would cost: $8.65 ea.!
(http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/images/medium/Ice2_MED.jpg)
(http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/images/medium/RGBDrive_MED.jpg)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36770.0;attach=37887;image)
or I could go the Knievel route and go with true leaf switch button, litemite lear switch lighting board, and that would cost: $7.50 ea!
(http://www.nicemite.com/LightmiteLB/images/complete.jpg)
(http://www.nicemite.com/LightmiteLB/images/bottom.jpg)
Both options are crazy expensive, but for the GGG route, I could have RGB's. The other route, I could have true leaf switches but I would be limited to a couple colors. Since I'm building an OSU themed cabinet, I would be stuck with red translucent buttons.
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By the way, I hand wired two four person control panels with ledwiz's, that is why I don't have a problem playing for a premade option. I may sack it up in the end, but I really really like the rgb route and I don't know if I could mentally handle doing all that soldering again. ;D
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Dude:
I would be tempted to go with the RGBs, simply because I think it would be cool to light up the buttons by game, in the same color they were in the arcade. If you are not doing that, then I don't see a huge point during gameplay for RGBs. That would only really be cool during the attract mode IMHO.
Something to think about before adding a 4-way:
Do you like playing 4-way games with the 49-way joystick set to 4-way mode? If the answer is yes, then there is NO reason to add a dedicated 4-way. If the answer is no, then you should add a dedicated 4-way because there really is no better way to play 4-way games. I am so partial to the feel of the original Pacman 4-way joysticks that I restored a whole Pacman Cocktail with original PCB and joysticks because I didn't like the way any other joystick felt in Pacman in MAME.
The next question you need to ask if you are going to use a dedicated 4-way joystick is: Do you like the way the 49-ways feel in 8-way games? If the answer is yes, do you like the way they feel more than a dedicated 8-way joystick? If the answer to either of those questions is NO, then maybe you shouldn't be using the 49-ways at all. You might be happier with a dedicated 8-way that you love and a dedicated 4-way that you love.
Now, if you really like the feel of the 49-way joysticks, then just use them. For games like Assault where you need dual 4-ways, it would be nice to be able to set all the 49-ways to 4-way mode. However, for games like Assault and Tron you need some kind of triggerstick or thumbswitch joystick. Are you into those games as well?
Let's talk out all you want to play, what your favorite games are, and what games you will feel limited against, and we can come up with as good a solution as possible. For me, the only solution I'm going to be happy with is a modular system. However, that eliminates artwork and LED lighting, so everything's a compromise.
BTW, I know I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but sometimes it's nice to bounce ideas off of somebody. I'm going to be bouncing some MameWAH stuff off of you here before long.
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BTW, I know I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but sometimes it's nice to bounce ideas off of somebody. I'm going to be bouncing some MameWAH stuff off of you here before long.
I appreciate this. Gets me thinking. I've read a ton of stuff over the past year and my brain can't handle all the jumble. I will post a list of some of my favorites. I can tell you the corner stone of the whole thing is Golden Tee and the old school emulators, so all this other talk is just for dessert, but very important non the less.
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So do the console emulators expect gamepads or will they accept keyboard inputs?
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They will accept game pads. The only problem I can forsee is the esc key as most are hard programmed. I have an unused keywiz max that I was going to use for that purpose. I was also going to use if for vpinball as well and the coindoor.
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I strongly endorse using a keyboard encoder to handle admin, coin, and start functions. These tend to lose their mapping in MAME when assigned to a gamepad and the gamepad gets unplugged.
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Okay, after serious debate and research, I have chosen to go with the following route for my buttons:
I will go with all Leaf buttons and the mite bright boards. I am going with a black and white CP overlay and red buttons. OSU colors are Scarlet and Grey and the incorporation of these two will accomplish the look that I want. I am also considering a radical idea for my side art. A metal fabricated block "O" that has lighting inside to create indirect light off the cabinet. Now that I'm in the Technology Education program at Ohio State, I should have access to everything I need to make that happen. The metal would help tie in the CP overlay.
Next effort: I am going to attempt to get my artwork together for my layouts and for the cp overlay. I feel that if I can get the artwork done on that,(SNAAAKE, you out there?!), then momentum will get really going.
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My wife is not going to be happy. ;D I just ordered my lights from Whammo and now I'm going to order my leaf switches and LEDWiz to get the ball rolling. This is going to go well. 8)
Here is the costs including shipping:
1)Ordered 26 Lite Might boards from Whammo: $87.94
2)Ordered 26 Red translucent 1 5/8th leaf switch butttons from Centsibleamusements: $83.68
I cancelled this part of the order untill I'm ready for the buttons.
UPDATE:Ordered 30 new and complete red tranlucent leaf switches for $55 shipped!!! Deal of the month!!!
3)Ordered LEDWiz from GroovyGameGear: $51.00
4)Look on my wifes face: Priceless!
Grand Total for lighting and buttons: $193.94
This will go over like a lead balloon. What it did though, was save me from buying two or three LEDWiz's and paying around a dollar more a button. So, she'll just have to deal with it. :P
Here is the links to the stuff I bought:
Leaf Switch Buttons and Leaf Switches (I did not buy them from here):
http://www.centsibleamusements.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=225 (http://www.centsibleamusements.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=225)
Litemite LED board with LED and screw terminal:
www.nicemite.com (http://www.nicemite.com)
LEDWiz:
www.groovygamegear.com (http://www.groovygamegear.com)
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I'm going to add a real plunger to the front of the cabinet. I have contacted another member on how to do it, so that will be excellent! Here is the link to the tutorial:
http://www.johnsretroarcade.com/hardware_pinball.asp#schematic (http://www.johnsretroarcade.com/hardware_pinball.asp#schematic)
I also just bought my control interfaces for P3 and P4 for the 49 ways. That set me back a cool $72.25. Now the CP construction will be ready to roll!
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Hey, you know the 1-5/8 buttons are for metal panels, right? The 2" buttons are for wood. What are you making the panel out of?
Knievel used the 2" buttons under wood and still had to router out 1/4" of material for them to line up right.
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I don't believe they make 2" buttons in translucent red. The two places I looked didn't have them and one of those was Wico. I am planning on planing down my CP to the desired thickness for this. That would keep me from having to countersink the 49 ways! I will look into it further.
EDIT: Noticed that I didn't order the LeafSwitch spacers. I will wait untill I get the buttons before ordering. I may have to fabricate the top out of metal and add the wood on the back like the standard control panels have. That will be fun.
I could have my cp artwork made, lay that on top of my metal, then drill the holes out and the artwork would look perfect! I could also mount the trackball straight to the metal. I like that idea! Now, how to figure this out.................................
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I'm not trying to be a pain in the arse, but I want to make sure you get exactly what you need. To make the leafswitch buttons work you need 3 parts:
1.) Button
(http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/images/thumbs/ls_pb_%20025_thumb.jpg)
2.) Holder with leafswitch
(http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/images/thumbs/ls_pb_%20003_thumb.jpg)
3.) Pal Nut
(http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/images/thumbs/ls_pb_%20034_thumb.jpg)
The cost you have breaks down to $3.21 per button. However, I don't see on Centsibleamusements' site the button holders with leafswitch. Did you get those, and if so, how much were they? The reason I ask is because I ordered 14 leafswitch buttons from Centsibleamusements back in November and the cost for all the 3 parts needed for 14 of them was about $100 with shipping.
BTW, Lizardlick Amusements (http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/pushbuttons.shtml) has the 2" translucent red buttons, but they are $2.50 as compared to $1.79. The button holders with leafswitch are $3. Also be aware that the button holder for the 1-5/8" buttons is typically thicker than the ones for 2" buttons which will further compound the problem of mounting them in wood.
If you want me to STFU I will, but please post pics of exactly what you bought so I can go to sleep not worrying that my OSU buddy got the "losing coach penalty" on his buttons.
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Well...........the more I've thought about it, I may return the leaf switches until I order the holder and nut at the same time, but I'm really interested in the metal top. I think that would be a great way to do it. Thanks for the heads up. I will keep the buttons that I ordered and hopefully get this figured out. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
EDIT: Looks as though I will need to find a Greenlee punch for my holes. Now I just need to find a four foot piece of metal. Also, time to bust out the trial version of Adobe Illustrator to get my CP laid out. I probably won't change much from my previous designs of four player layouts, but you never know. I do have some changes in mind that are fairly key to the whole thing. Wow, I didn't plan on starting this early.
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I cancelled my leaf switch button order all together. I did order the lighting, ledwiz, and the controller interfaces, so outside of the buttons, I have all I need to start the cp. I did research making the cp out of metal and I definitely think that is the way I'm going to go. Now I need to get my artwork done and go from there. I think I am going to make a metal block "O" on the side with rounded sides so I can hide neon red lighting behind it. We'll just have to find out how good my metal bending skills are. I want to do as much on my own as I can, so I will just have to see how it goes!
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Okay, it's picture time! Thanks Whammo! You are the first official supplier of "new" parts for the cabinet!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50031.0;attach=42225;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50031.0;attach=42227;image)
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That button comparison isn't completely fare you know. You didn't acknowledge the fact that the electric ice buttons are quite different than normal translucents. Yes, they're more expensive than what you bought, but what you bought doesn't do the same thing.
Anyway, looks like you're really going all out with this project; I can't wait to see how it turns out.
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I fairly said that by going with the leaf switch option, I was sacrificing the rgb's. The ultimate reason was that the leaf switch add on for microswitches probably don't work with the rgb boards. The other negative(or positive depending upon how you look at it), is that I would've had to add two more LEDWiz's to have enough outputs for all the rgb's. I would have preferred the rgb's, but with all the bells and whistles, I have to pick and choose carefully.
BTW, thank you very much for the compliments. I hope the documentation from start to finish will help others down the road.
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The RGB part isn't what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the way the electric ice buttons diffuse light. You will get very different looks between normal translucent and electric ice buttons. I think think this should be more of a deciding factor, rather than the one dollar difference (when you're spending the kind of money you are, a dollar makes little difference).
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The RGB part isn't what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the way the electric ice buttons diffuse light. You will get very different looks between normal translucent and electric ice buttons. I think think this should be more of a deciding factor, rather than the one dollar difference (when you're spending the kind of money you are, a dollar makes little difference).
True on all accounts. That's why I wanted those buttons with the rgb board, you can't beat the look and the results. I have wired two other four player cp's with regular translucent buttons, but they were dedicated colors. It's all about the design of the cp and the artwork IMHO. How you tie the three factors together to get the final result. As a side note, since I have so many buttons(26 w/o start buttons), another price that I had to figure in was mulitple LEDWiz's which would have ran over another $100. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that. But none the less, I did consider that my first and most liked option and price would not have been an issue if I really wanted it. I just had to make a choice so I could keep the ball rolling. That's the one tough thing about this hobby. There is new stuff around every corner and trying it out(I was one of the first to use the LEDWiz, two panels at once actually), is so difficult because there are so many things to deal with. In this example, will the leaf switches from ponyboy work with the rgb boards? No one knows and I just can't try it out this time. :(
Now I have to design my cp overlay, figure out if I'm going to use 16 or 18 gauge metal, where to locate my buttons as compared to where I have in the past, am I going to use the Keywiz max or the ipac for my admin buttons, and etc, etc, etc.................... ;)
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That button comparison isn't completely fair you know. You didn't acknowledge the fact that the electric ice buttons are quite different than normal translucents. Yes, they're more expensive than what you bought, but what you bought doesn't do the same thing.
It's his project; he's not doing a button comparison for Retroblast.
He prefers the feel of leafswitch buttons. To a person who is serious about gaming, that is more important than how it looks. The translucent leafs FEEL the way he wants and LOOK the way he wants them to look.
When it's all said and done, the leafs will probably be more, but he will be happy because they look and feel like what he wanted.
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Good point with the LEDwiz boards. I hadn't taken that into account since I would just wire the LEDs myself.
It's his project; he's not doing a button comparison for Retroblast.
Yeah, I know, I just wanted to point it out for anyone reading this in the future.
It's my understanding that the micro switch buttons with the ponyboy leaf brackets are supposed to feel exactly the same as real leaf switches (so that's not the biggest concern). But does anyone know if the brackets and the GGG boards work together (without getting in the way of each other)?
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It's my understanding that the micro switch buttons with the ponyboy leaf brackets are supposed to feel exactly the same as real leaf switches (so that's not the biggest concern). But does anyone know if the brackets and the GGG boards work together (without getting in the way of each other)?
RandyT said he didn't think so. Hopefully ponyboy will get them soon and we can all check.
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Can you really get a 4-player over/under coin door? Or are you gonna get 2 over/unders?
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Can you really get a 4-player over/under coin door? Or are you gonna get 2 over/unders?
(http://www.happcontrols.com/images/40/40094600_new.gif)
http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40094600.htm (http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40094600.htm)
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Can you really get a 4-player over/under coin door? Or are you gonna get 2 over/unders?
They do sell those, but they are over $100. It may be one of the later purchases.
Good point with the LEDwiz boards. I hadn't taken that into account since I would just wire the LEDs myself.
Did you mean the rgb boards? The LEDWiz's would be necessary just to drive the lighting. My soldering isn't so hot, so I probably would of had to go with the rgb boards, only because I don't want to melt my house down since those four wires would be so close. I can only handle so much tube shrinking and I don't know where to find pre wired leds with proper resistors other than what we've talked about.
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Also, I did ask about those leafswitch adaptors from Ponyboy. Here is Randy's reply:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=50789.msg498754#msg498754 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=50789.msg498754#msg498754)
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Umm, sure, that's what I meant... :-\
Thanks for directing me to that reply, I seem to have missed that one. That's an awful shame they don't seem to work.
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Can you really get a 4-player over/under coin door? Or are you gonna get 2 over/unders?
(http://www.happcontrols.com/images/40/40094600_new.gif)
http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40094600.htm (http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40094600.htm)
Wow. I've never seen that before. Very nice!
*grumble, grumble* Something else to add to the wish list..*grumble, grumble*
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This is going to be one hell of a cab when its finished!
2. 15" LCD monitor in the top similar to GTLive
What are you planning to have showing on the LCD?
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This is going to be one hell of a cab when its finished!
2. 15" LCD monitor in the top similar to GTLive
What are you planning to have showing on the LCD?
Thanks! I hope it is. I plan on using the second monitor basically for Johnny5 or CPMaker. I also plan on using it in a more advanced fashion as the programming develops. I would love to have my own videos when playing games like Golden Tee or premade intro and outro movies when selecting games within mamewah or something to that effect. How awesome would it be to have sportscenter on while playing some Golden Tee or Tiger Woods?
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MAJOR NEWS: I just bought 30 new and complete red 1 5/8th inch translucent red leaf switch buttons for $55 shipped!!! :o That's correct, the whole thing, holder, leaf switch, nut, and all for $55!!! Deal of the week!!! I have to keep it under wraps for now, but hopefully I will be allowed to let the cat out of the bag!!! Huge thanks goes out to a great member here who found the deal!!!
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Do you have a name picked out yet?
How about "Money Pit", or "No Expense Spared"?
:)
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Do you have a name picked out yet?
How about "Money Pit", or "No Expense Spared"?
:)
You talkin' to my wife or something?! >:( All she hears is,"blah, blah, blah, $50, blah, blah, blah, $100, blah, blah, blah................"
I know this badboy is going to run a pretty penny, but that is why it is my swan song on the construction end. Budda, why don't you make me an Ohio State Themed layout? Just kidding, but if you're interested............ ;D
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Here is the cp layout as near as I can tell. From past layouts, I eliminated the coin buttons, eliminated one mouse button, moved the mouse buttons to the left and right of the trackball, and I added a spinner above player one. In the picture it is the same size as a button. The trackball is so low so I don't bust fingers playing Golden Tee. Comments? Suggestions?
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1684_1024.ts1141814504203.jpg)
Here was my original design:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1685_1024.ts1141815557296.jpg)
For some reason, in the last pic there should have been a box above the trackball for a PSOne monitor and neither pick shows the angles on the bottom corners. I have the bottom dog eared on the sides like normal, not a true rectangle.
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Just received the litemite boards from Whammo and the GPWiz 49's and LEDWiz from RandyT! Thanks for the quick shipping fellas!
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Okay, I have everything together that I have. Here are some pics:
My Groovy Game Gear collection, I should have bought stock! It includes: 1 Keywiz max, 1 LedWiz, 4 unique GP49Way interfaces:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1878_348.ts1142063878000.jpg)
The Midway 49 ways:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1885_348.ts1142063950000.jpg)
30 - 1 5/8th" Wico red translucent leafswitches:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1887_348.ts1142063912000.jpg)
Completed leafswitch assembly with litemite board:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1873_348.ts1142064202000.jpg)
Happs 3" trackball non usb with red translucent trackball from Bob Roberts:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1879_348.ts1142064912000.jpg)
Optipac from Ultimarc for Trackball and Spinner:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1886_348.ts1142064894000.jpg)
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It's official, my first cabinet ever has now been disassembled. :'( This reply is in tribute to my baby. It is a sad end and a happy new beginning ;).
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/581_1024.ts1124320000000.jpg)
Ah memories:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/37_348.ts1109062029316.jpg)
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I love parts shots like that. I bet you're really excited!!
Why did you take the old cab apart before building the new one?
Oh, and I need a wife with a better job. ;)
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Can you really get a 4-player over/under coin door? Or are you gonna get 2 over/unders?
(http://www.happcontrols.com/images/40/40094600_new.gif)
http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40094600.htm (http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40094600.htm)
Wow. I've never seen that before. Very nice!
*grumble, grumble* Something else to add to the wish list..*grumble, grumble*
If you DO get one of these doors, make sure to get the colored inserts.
Here's mine mounted in the ROYAL PITA curved laminate front panel I made for my cab:
(http://www.ogredog.com/images/MAME%20Construction/Coin%20Door%20-%20Assembly%20Complete%20With%20Door.jpg)
The colored inserts make a BIG dirrerence.
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*mccoy178 slobbers at the beauty..........
That's freakin' awesome looking. That is what I envision.
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Thanks.
The whole cabinet / construction process is at my web link:
www.ogredog.com
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The cabinet work is impressive. Looks like you do a little wood working on the side. ;D I wish I had that many nice clamps. Those are killer and expensive. I am "borrowing" this idea here. I really like it and think it would be an excellent addition:
(http://www.ogredog.com/images/MAME%20Construction/Coin%20Door%20-%20Sanded%20-%20Inner%20Radius.jpg)
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Why did you take the old cab apart before building the new one?
Stop Ignoring Me!!
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Hey, do you guys hear something... no? Must be my imagination.
But hey, I was wondering, why did you take the old cab apart? Are you using the skeleton to build the new one around, or are you harvesting the organs to put into your new creation?
I love those different color coin slots.
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The cabinet work is impressive. Looks like you do a little wood working on the side. ;D I wish I had that many nice clamps. Those are killer and expensive. I am "borrowing" this idea here. I really like it and think it would be an excellent addition:
LOL. Yes, I do a TINY bit of woodworking.
If / when you borrow it, make sure to read the part on my site about the PAIN I had getting it laminated.
I had to go to an ~3.5" radius to get it work, and still had to back fill some small voids with epoxy.
It LOOKS good, but it was TOUGH to do, and expensive, when you count up the cracked laminate.
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Why did you take the old cab apart before building the new one?
Stop Ignoring Me!!
Okay you big lug. I took it apart for two reasons. 1st, by having it disassembled it takes away the motivation to play on it. 2nd, I just decided to part it out as I am now committed to this project and by destructing the old, it was a way of moving on for me.
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Here is my first attempt at the artwork. Almost everything is borrowed. I am proud to say that using the tutorial from the artwork section allowed me to vectorize the Golden Tee arrows and the shot chart. The overlay is not correct with their color. They do not have that glow around them.
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I think the stroke around the GT arrows is too big. I would prefer it if the arrows were not all connected with the stroke.
My $.02.
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What is the stroke? I will post my GT pic so you can see what it actually looks like. It honestly looks nothing like that in real life.
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The "stroke" is the red outline around the arrows.
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Here is a copy and paste of the arrows. I don't know why that red is so pronounced here. This is much better except for the pixelation of course.
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Here is a better pic of the pc I hope:
EDIT: Nope. Still has the red around it. I give.
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Hey man, I just saw this (http://cgi.ebay.com/4-PLAYER-COIN-DOOR-USED-NICE-JAMMA-WKS-W-MAME-NR_W0QQitemZ6261040229QQcategoryZ13718QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) on ebay and remembered you were looking for a 4 slot coindoor.
Edit... Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/4-PLAYER-COIN-DOOR-USED-NICE-JAMMA-WKS-W-MAME-NR_W0QQitemZ6261374583QQcategoryZ13718QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) is another one.
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Hey, thanks a lot. I don't care what they say about ya! That's more in my price range for a coindoor.
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Those are listed by tornadoterry who is a GREAT guy!! Bid with confidence.
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Could you explain the meaning of all those red arrows on the cp ?
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Take a look at the picture of the arrows by themselves in the pic above. That is what they really look like. I am a huge Golden Tee fan and that is what those arrows are from. There really is not that much red around them. When I made that pic, for some reason made the arrows glow. So anyways, to answer your question, I'm a huge GT fan and the color scheme is for the Ohio State University, the college I graduated from.
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Could you explain the meaning of all those red arrows on the cp ?
They are dance steps for the track ball version of dance dance revolution. ;D
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Could you explain the meaning of all those red arrows on the cp ?
They are dance steps for the track ball version of dance dance revolution. ;D
ROFL!
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Here is a copy and paste of the arrows. I don't know why that red is so pronounced here. This is much better except for the pixelation of course.
If there is a stroke effect applied to the layer, it won't automatically resize if you change the image size (say reducing the size to post it on the boards?)
You can go to [Layer - Layer Style - Scale Effects ] and change it to whatever percentage looks right on the resized image.
If there isn't a stroke effect on the layer, I have no idea what I am talking about and ill crawl back under my rock :-\
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Thanks for the tip! I knew it was that, I just didn't know why it was doing it until now.
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Paid for the coin mechs today from another member and some labels from MikeDeuce. More artwork to be revealed very soon!
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Picked a name today. The most popular and oldest bar on campus is named,"The Varsity Club". I liked it, and that's all that matters ;D. :P
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If you DO get one of these doors, make sure to get the colored inserts.
(http://www.ogredog.com/images/MAME%20Construction/Coin%20Door%20-%20Assembly%20Complete%20With%20Door.jpg)
Man, I love that multi-colored coin door.
I'm putting together a green & blue cocktail cab and tried to get green and blue coin rejects for mine, but Happ (via ponyboy) said "no dice" on the green. :( They won't make a single unit for me (which implies they don't have any in stock).
Did you get your directly through Happ or maybe someplace else that might have another green lying around? If you ever decide to change your color set and get rid of the green, let me know :)
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My inserts all came from HAPPs.
I'll see if I have any spares. Probably so, as I think there was a minimum order.
Stay tuned...
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My inserts all came from HAPPs.
I'll see if I have any spares. Probably so, as I think there was a minimum order.
Stay tuned...
That would be hot! Thanks tivogre.
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I'm in as well.
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I'm in as well.
FWIW, ponyboy got me a single blue reject without a problem. It was just the green that was an issue for some reason.
Keeping my fingers crossed!
(sorry for any thread hijack, mccoy :))
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Latest artwork update:
The stroke is still a little strong(the red around the lettering. I didn't scale it down enough for this jpeg), but you get the drift. I'm going to change the joystick art and I still need to make the button art. I am also still photoshopping some of the pics, so I'm a ways off, but it's a start.
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Spinners - one should be sufficient for most games like Tempest and Blasteroids as they are alternating player. The second spinner would be pretty low on the priority list, though.
Late to the party, but Blasteroids was 2P Sim according to MAWS and nplayers.ini (plus they wouldn't have put two spinners on the original CP if it were alternating.
New cab sounds awesome, btw.
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I was only going to go with one, but I love Puzzloop and I have found that those simple competitive games are the best for visitors. Easy to learn and good competitiveness. I also really really like Warlords.
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I like how the artwork is going. How about adding an OSU logo in the upper left-hand corner at the same size as the MAME logo that's in the upper right corner.
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Good point. I forgot to fill in some more details. I would like to put the BYOAC logo up there. I am planning on putting a couple OSU picks faded into the background like the band being led onto the field, coach Tressel and the team singing Carmen Ohio, and maybe one or two others faded into the back. I'm still working.
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Okay, I feel pretty good about this one. Outside of asking Mark very nicely to do some work on my photo's, I'm pretty much set with this layout. It covers all of the Saturday specialties that are important to me. The man in the middle is Woody Hayes, the legendary coach. The four guys around him and the one at the bottom of the trackball are all of the heisman trophy winners. The band is a huge thing at OSU, so that is why they are faded in on the right and when they dot the "I" of script OHIO, the drum major dips back like the one on top of player2's controls. Brutus is the mascot and I love the picture of him with the flag. Current coach Tressel sings the alma mater after every game and that is what he and the team is doing in the background on the left. I used Ohio Script for my lettering. I used Pixel Huggers artwork for the Mame logo and Byoac. Thought those were a necessity. ;) The white square around the joysticks and the leaf in the middle are the buckeye leaf's players get for their helmets, so again, an OSU reference Buckeye fans would get. Let me know what you think you filthy animals.
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Are the leaves on the helmets in a white circle like around your joysticks? If so, that's great. If not, the stark white circle around the joysticks may be a little bright.
It's a very nice execution of a great concept.
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Thanks for the compliment. Yes, the buckeye leaves are very white like that. I tried fading them back, but it didn't look right. They will also have the black ring over them, but the idea is there for Buckeye faithful to appreciate.
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Hey, your missing that key member from your last National Championship Team...Maurice Clarette... ;D? Just kidding, it really looks great!!! Nice work!
Dan
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Made some modifications:
Okay, I added rays of light around the heisman guys and the coach. I also did the same for Eddie George under the trackball. I brought out the art on the right and left 25% more and I erased the boxy look of the photo on the left. Do you guys think the title should stay Silver or Red?
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Red. It goes with the buttons. Use a silver stroke.
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Here's what I'm talking about.
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Thanks, I believe you are correct on that one. Any other photoshop tips?
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I kept the title red. I also dropped Brutus from the background.
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Any other photoshop tips?
It's not a Photoshop tip, but "never eat yellow snow." ;D
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Bought LCD Recoil for $51 from link sang. $16 shipping? FTW, is up with that on a $35 product? Anyways, I paid and now it's on it's way! I was going to buy two, but shipping was $39! I'm no math major, but.............. Seems like Karma was telling me to try one and go from there. I'm worried about its performance on a slanted screen. I guess I'll find out!
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How about whipping up a rendering of the CP art with red buttons? That's going to be a big part of how that panel looks and the extra white of the button holes might be throwing off your perception of how that panel will look. It looks pretty cool though.
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Great idea! That made me think of those 3D renderings out there in the world. Must go find them...........
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Here it is with buttons. With and without brutus in the background.
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** Warning, I'm not a Photoshop or Illustrator guy **
You might want to try changing the transparency of the fill in the boxes around your buttons. I would try to make it match the border around the trackball (minus the Golden Tee directional arrows). In other words, you don't have the save light colored look around the trackball as you do around the buttons.
If that doesn't make sense, all I'm trying to say is that I like how the area around the trackball looks better than the areas around each button group.
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I made some changes since that pic. Sorry for the lack of update.
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Here it is with buttons. With and without brutus in the background.
Okay, I'm having a slow morning. Brutus is the mascot holding the flag above Player 2, correct? I see him in both pics. What am I missing? ???
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Here it is with buttons. With and without brutus in the background.
Okay, I'm having a slow morning. Brutus is the mascot holding the flag above Player 2, correct? I see him in both pics. What am I missing? ???
Look dead center, faintly in the background. Open 'em both side-by-side and you'll see it.
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Look dead center, faintly in the background. Open 'em both side-by-side and you'll see it.
Found it!!! (Thanks!) :cheers:
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Received my spinners from Randy today. Another sale that Christian lost thanks to his positive attitude. :cheers:
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Received Guncon today. Can't believe shipping is so much. Looks cool though. I hope it's pimp. If so, I'll pick up a second. Also, I'm close to making my artwork final. I need the overlay to cut out the holes in the metal, so I just need to make a decision. I'm very happy with what I have. I know once I send it off, I'll change my mind, but what the heck, right?! Get your final jabs in, as I'm giving it two more days before I order.
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oh - those are buckeye leaves? I thought they were something else ;)
Looking good! I can't wait to see it with some glowing button action.
Also note that if you're having trouble with strokes in illustrator not scaling when you shrink the image to export a JPG, you can instead make a JPG at full res and then shrink the JPG. Quick hack, but if you use full quality JPG there shouldn't be much of a quality loss. The scale effects tip was a good one too..
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oh - those are buckeye leaves? I thought they were something else ;)
See McCoy, I'm not the only one!
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The artwork has been sent to Scott at Mamemarquees. I'm pumped. Thanks for the feedback fellas! :notworthy:
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I received the overlay today! I was very nervous to open the package, but I must say, I'm very impressed with myself.(I knew Scott's part would be good, I was sweating what my artwork would look like printed out). Scott had emailed me and said that with a background I was using, the color was brown. He had printed a copy and I about crapped. So, I took the background out and sent it to him and he still had to correct the black because it had a RGB of 3,3,3. So, to make a short story long, it all came out beautiful in the end. :cheers: Now to get the metal and continue on!
Also, I have decided to add one of those infrared keyboards to the bottom of the monitor bezel to shine on the cp overlay above the trackball. More details will follow once I get the device in my hands.
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Also, I have decided to add one of those infrared keyboards to the bottom of the monitor bezel to shine on the cp overlay above the trackball. More details will follow once I get the device in my hands.
That's awesome. I'd love to do that, but I can't justify dropping the cash at this point. I've got plenty of other necessities to sink money into. :)
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I received the marquee today! I was very nervous to open the package, but I must say, I'm very impressed with myself.(I knew Scott's part would be good, I was sweating what my artwork would look like printed out). Scott had emailed me and said that with a background I was using, the color was brown. He had printed a copy and I about crapped. So, I took the background out and sent it to him and he still had to correct the black because it had a RGB of 3,3,3. So, to make a short story long, it all came out beautiful in the end. :cheers: Now to get the metal and continue on!
Also, I have decided to add one of those infrared keyboards to the bottom of the monitor bezel to shine on the cp overlay above the trackball. More details will follow once I get the device in my hands.
All I heard was, "blah, blah, blah, I'm too big of an asshat to make pics of my new artwork."
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blah, blah, blah, I'm too big of an asshat to make pics of my new artwork.
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blah, blah, blah, I'm too big of an asshat to make pics of my new artwork.
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blah, blah, blah, I'm too big of an asshat to make pics of my new artwork.
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blah, blah, blah, I'm too big of an asshat to make pics of my new artwork.
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Looks great, asshat! :cheers:
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I can only imagine the pain that Scott felt having to print that being that he's a Michigander.
But as usual, Scott's work is flawless. Nice job McCoy!
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wow asshats have weird artwork pictures
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wow asshats have weird artwork pictures
ROTFLMAO!! ;D :applaud:
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At least it's not cardboard!
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At least it's not cardboard!
Ooooooooh! Touche!
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you too can now own my cardboard podium!
it is poosted in buy sell trade ;)
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Sweet offer, but I'm gonna give it a shot on my own. ;D Anyways, I went to the metal shop and bought an 18x48" piece of 16 gauge aluminum. It is excellent! I was going to have that same company punch the holes out, but I have access to a metal cutter for the angles on the sides and a few drill presses to attempt the holes myself. Since it is aluminum, I think if I properly clamp the work down, I shouldn't have any issues. I guess I'll find out. BTW, the metal was $28.
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Looking good man. But I can't wait to see some of those translucent leafs all lit up!
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I am mulling over the idea of adding a marquee. I am planning on using a betabrite sign like my last cabinet, but I think I can pull this off. More updates to come!
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Here is the initial idea for the marquee. I want to cut out the top of the cabinet to match the block "O", thus the white area. I need input as to what colors do and don't work for light coming through. I just made this to get a start.
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You need a tag line under The Varsity Club...something like:
"Creating 'O' Faces Since 1959"
At least that's what came to mind when I see that giant O.
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Here is how I created the holes in my cp:
Since this is my first attempt at working with metal, I thought a little tutorial could help future noobs.
First, I mounted my artwork to the 16 gauge aluminum:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=46211;image)
I then cut the dog ears off the control panel and the edges to pretty it up using this tool:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46376;image)
I purchased a 3/4" greenlee punch that actually has an inside diameter of 1 1/8th". In order to use the punch, a 3/4" bolt is used to pull the two halfs together to finish the hole. The following pictures are of the greenlee punch new and the drill press with the drill bit ready for action. On a side note, while drilling the holes, there was some minor marks made on the art from hot shavings. This could probably be avoided with a clear piece of plastic over top for protection.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46378;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46372;image)
Here is a pic of the holes after predrilling is done:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46370;image)
Here is the greenlee punch on a sample piece. I used a 1" wrench to tighten the two sides together. It worked like magic!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46374;image)
NOTE: 1 1/8th is not big enough for leaf switch buttons. I used a drill bit to hollow out the holes big enough to get the buttons to fit.
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Here is the cp after the punches were made. The extra material is just little pieces of the artwork.
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Okay, new marquee.
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Oh wow, you're actually working on something now?
I'm starting to get hyped.
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;D
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NOTE: 1 1/8th is not big enough for leaf switch buttons. I used a drill bit to hollow out the holes big enough to get the buttons to fit.
Please go into more detail here as this seemed to be a major issue a few weeks ago for another user installing leafswitch buttons in a metal panel with 1-1/8" holes. What drill bit did you use and how did you keep the holes centered?
Also, how much was the Greenlee punch and where did you get it? How difficult was it to drill that huge ass 3/4" hole?
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I have access to a huge range of drill bits at college. The hole was just barely too small. I didn't use those to start because of heat concerns, since the artwork was mounted. After the fact, I just honed each one out one by one. It took a minute.
The Greenlee punch was $40 :dizzy: ! It is amazingly easy to use though and made a nice hole. Drilling the 7/8th" hole was fairly easy, just nerve racking. I had a buddy with an air hose blow off the shavings as I went. I would shut the drill off everytime and center the artwork under the drill. I had the drill set to a low speed, and it worked great without a clamp. Since the bit was larger than needed, I wasn't too worried about it being a hair off.
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So the bit bigger than 1-1/8" was a solid bit as opposed to a hole-saw-type bit? I've never even seen one that big.
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At OSU, they have a huge assortment of metal bits. I don't want to even imagine what the cost of those are.
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Okay, I went to a machine shop in my town. I didn't even know the place existed and the guy has a milling machine! He's a private owner who just does it for fun! I see many projects in the future. :applaud: Anyways, he machined out my trackball circle and recommended to use a dremel tool to widen the other holes. So, I came home, used some bees wax on the bit as to not get the bit all gummed up with aluminum and the holes widened right up. Here are some pics of the trackball hole, my wife trimming those little tabs off the leaf switches, the dremel bit used, and the bees wax.
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Here is a pic of the buttons sitting in the cp. (I couldn't resist)
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How are you going to attach the control panel to the CP wooden box?
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NOTE: 1 1/8th is not big enough for leaf switch buttons. I used a drill bit to hollow out the holes big enough to get the buttons to fit.
Just wanted to point out that the picture on the box says the hole diameter is 1.12 or 28 mm, and 1-1/8 would be 1.125. This could account for the holes being too small.
(Although I am not familiar with the post MarkRVP mentioned, so it is possible that a true 1-1/8 would also not work).
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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=&I=LXC025#tech (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=&I=LXC025#tech)
I plan on using this product to hold my metal cp to an mdf backing. I have a bunch of "c" clamps to use. Do you think this will stand the test of time? I don't want any bolts showing through the top and by routing out the mdf, it can hold everything like I need it in case anything needs replaced.
(http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/devr2025.jpg)
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Here is a tutorial on how I made my cp underlay:
First, I marked the underlay to match the overlay:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46512;image)
Second, I cut off the excess pressboard, so that there is about an 1/8" left on all sides:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46515;image)
Here is the underlay before routing:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46516;image)
Here is the overlay sitting on the underlay as I was getting ready to secure them to each other:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46518;image)
Here is how I secured the overlay to the underlay. I used some extra pieces of pine:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46520;image)
I used brad nails to hold the overlay in place. It worked perfectly:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46522;image)
I used the flush trim bit to match up the two pieces. Came out well:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46524;image)
After flushing the pieces, I marked the locations of all the holes:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46526;image)
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Next, I drilled the holes for the spinners. Here is the cross hairs for one:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46528;image)
Here are the three tools I used to make the hole in the aluminum and the underlay:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46530;image)
Drilling the pilot hole:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46534;image)
Finished Spinner Hole:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46536;image)
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Now the fun part. Here is how I finished the underlay tonight. It's been a long six hours.
Here is the underlay with all the markings complete:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46538;image)
First thing I did was flush the trackball plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46540;image)
I drilled all the holes first before routing:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46542;image)
I cut out the center next:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46544;image)
Here is all the router bits I used on this stage of the project:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46546;image)
I set the depth of the router to match the plate thickness:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46548;image)
Trackball routing finished:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46550;image)
Double Checking Depth:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46552;image)
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I had to cut the material out for the leaf switches. Since the fit would be really close if they were set straight, I angled the cut out at 45 degrees. It took me a minute to draw it all up, but well worth it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46554;image)
Here is the underlay after the button sections have been cut out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46556;image)
I next turned the underlay over and routed out the joysticks and the spinner areas. I first set the depth of the router to match the joystick:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46558;image)
Here are my markings for the areas to be routed. I made them a little big to allow adjustment once the metal is mounted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46560;image)
Here is the areas routed out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46562;image)
Almost ready for priming, just the tmolding slot left:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46564;image)
Tmolding routed. Centered to compensate for the metal thickness:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46566;image)
Here is the paints that I used:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46568;image)
Primered Grey:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46570;image)
Painted Black:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=46572;image)
Whew! I'm freaking tired! I'll fill in the blanks better later whenever I wake up. :dizzy:
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Wow, lotsa stuff accomplished. You worked really late eh'. Can you explaine just a little bit more about the bee's wax while dremmiling? I have totally coated my grinder bits with aluminum and can't get it off. What dies the bee's wax do? (please don't reply none of your bee's wax :P)
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I thought I was the only person that worked until almost dawn on projects. You'll feel like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- today.
Originally you were going to weld threaded bolts underneath the panel for mounting the joysticks and trackball. Now you are using a wood underlay. The Midway 49-way sticks are not that tall and in wood I would mount them recessed from the top. It appears you are attaching them to the particle board from underneath which is now very thin. Is there enough wood material there to attach them to?
I'm not questioning your decisions, I'm asking for additional information on how it all is supported.
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Wow, lotsa stuff accomplished. You worked really late eh'. Can you explaine just a little bit more about the bee's wax while dremmiling? I have totally coated my grinder bits with aluminum and can't get it off. What dies the bee's wax do? (please don't reply none of your bee's wax :P)
The bees wax keeps the bits from getting gunked up with aluminum. Worked like a champ!
I thought I was the only person that worked until almost dawn on projects. You'll feel like ---Cleveland steamer--- today.
Originally you were going to weld threaded bolts underneath the panel for mounting the joysticks and trackball. Now you are using a wood underlay. The Midway 49-way sticks are not that tall and in wood I would mount them recessed from the top. It appears you are attaching them to the particle board from underneath which is now very thin. Is there enough wood material there to attach them to?
I'm not questioning your decisions, I'm asking for additional information on how it all is supported.
I ended up not using the bolts because of heat issues. I didn't want to melt the artwork from spot welding.
I have attached 49 ways from the bottom before. They are just as thick as the wood, so if I think there will be an issue, I plan on using a brace of sorts across the opening to give it extra security.
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I forgot to mention, the main reason I routed everything from the bottom is so that it can be replaced. I keep thinking to myself, "What if an end all arcade joystick comes out?". I just don't want to be locked into having the 49 ways. I plan on having this baby for a long time.
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I can't wait to see it wired up. :applaud:
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I can't either! Should only take me fifty years. :banghead:
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Why did you quit? Get back to work. :angry:
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I'm still plugging away at it. I mounted the interfaces last night. I also made aluminum brackets to help with holding the joysticks in place.
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Those red translucents look incredibly slick on the CP
Congrats
Tim
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Thanks! :cheers:
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Wow, incredible work McCoy. I live in Ohio, so initially I wondered why football and why OSU for an arcade CP overlay, but now I think it looks amazing. Of course, I know how crazy OSU fans can get. Nice work and excellent documenting. I can see some excellent games of Pigskin getting played on that box. That game really is great with the 49-ways.
Cheers,
KenToad
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Thanks man. I had a hard time finding room for all the encoders. I will be missing the pics of when I installed those, but it is common sense. I'll be posting more pics within the next day or two.
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I'm still working. Here is a little description of how I made my cp box.
First, I drew the box bottom based off the cp top. I want the box to be 1/2" smaller on the sides and in the front. Once I had it drawn, I use a jig saw to cut within an 1/8" of my lines:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47071;image)
Second, I used a brad nailer to attach a guide strip and then proceded to use a flush bit and a router table to make the edges smooooooooth:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47075;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47073;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47077;image)
All in all, I was very happy with how bottom came out. Here is a pick of the final piece:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47069;image)
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I almost have the box complete. I may change the sides to mdf, so this reply may be bunk before it's all over.
First, I attached the front(side towards the monitor). I always attach the front and the back pieces first, so I know what angle to cut the sides. I used glue, brad nails, and blocks to attach the pieces:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47079;image)
After attaching the front, I began on the back. First, I cut the piece to the heigth I wanted. I have a one inch difference from the front to the back. I may change this, as the Golden Tee Live I measured had a 3" drop over the same distance, 18"'s:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47081;image)
Like the back, I cut the piece to fit and attached it. I also cut out slots on both sides for pinball flipper buttons. More on that later. Next, I began work on the sides. First, I cut the side to fit on the bottom:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47083;image)
Second, I secured the side to the bottom. This allowed me to work with the piece to mark and route the proper angle:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47085;image)
Next, I laid a piece of plywood on the cp box. I was able to use how the board rested to mark the angle with a pencil:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47087;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47089;image)
Next, I nail gunned a guide strip next to my pencil line so I could use the router to flush up the angle. Here is the finished side with the guide still attached:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47091;image)
That's all for now on the cp box. I may switch to mdf on the sides for powder coating purposes, but more info to follow on that.
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Until I figure out what I want to do with the cp box, I decided to start the cabinet. I went to a local bar and took detailed measurements of their Golden Tee Live machine. I definitely want one of those. :hissy: Anyways, I drew up my cabinet in Illustrator and used the laptop to layout the measurements on the mdf board. I bought three sheets at Lowe's. I only needed two. I was able to make both sides out of one piece of mdf. My cabinet will have measurements very similar to the new Golden Tee machines with just a primary change in asthetics.
Here is the laptop with the drawing of my cabinet. I saw it squint as it's not used to seeing daylight:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47095;image)
I used a five foot ruler to measure out the sides:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47093;image)
I cut out the first side with a jig saw. Once I had completed that, I used the first side to roughly cut out second side, again with the jig saw:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47097;image)
Here is the router bit used to flush the two sides:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47107;image)
Here are some close ups of how I made both pieces flush. I used pieces of oak and three inch clamps to hold the pieces snug to each other:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47101;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47103;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47109;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47105;image)
I'm not a huge fan of the MDF dust:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47099;image)
All in all, I'm very happy with how it went. I did make a mistake on the first side I made, so I'm glad I bought three sheets.(I left out the flat part in front of the cp, so the monitor had a pretty long run :banghead:) It sucks to see that mistake after feeling a sense of accomplishment. :banghead: But, it wasn't hard to make the new sides, so all was well.
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That's all for now. I will hopefully be posting the measurements I have taken of the Golden Tee Live for future users. Also, the epoxy did not hold on the cp. I am going to use carriage bolts to hold them together. I'm okay with that. What's a guy to do? Listen to good advice? Nah. :dizzy:
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After some extensive research, there is no one in Central Ohio with the capabilities to powder coat mdf. :badmood: So, with that said, time to get out the rollers and get to the wet sanding.
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I've continued with the cabinet this week. Here are some pics of the bottom being made, the coindoor area in construction, and the whole shabang just hanging out. I also redid the cp box with mdf on the exposed sides and lowered the back part an extra inch for Golden Tee purposes. I hope to get a start on the wiring tonight.
Here is the steps I took to make the bottom. I am using 4" castors from another cabinet and they stick beyond the bottom about 2"'s.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47505;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47507;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47509;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47511;image)
Here is the cabinet sitting in all its young glory. Talk about a motivator!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47503;image)
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Here is the coindoor slot. It is still a work in progress, so it has its own reply.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47515;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47517;image)
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Are you able to construct and store this at the OSU shop? It looks like you've got a lot of room to work.
In my dad's garage, I have to move something anytime I want to build the next piece. :P
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Yeah, I have it all over at OSU for the moment. I am using my own supplies and tools when possible, but you can't beat industrial sized table saws, planers, and band saws.
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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!, I started the wiring. I'll be back in ten weeks.
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Minor update: All four GPWiz49 interfaces and the 49 ways worked with the laptop! :cheers: I need to widen the bottom left corner of P1's hole by a hair and other then that, all sectors were reached and worked fine. That's a $250 relief right there. Now onto the Keywiz, then the ledwiz, then the.................
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Minor update: All four GPWiz49 interfaces and the 49 ways worked with the laptop! :cheers: I need to widen the bottom left corner of P1's hole by a hair and other then that, all sectors were reached and worked fine. That's a $250 relief right there. Now onto the Keywiz, then the ledwiz, then the.................
Wait a minute - You're got four GP-Win49 Interfaces - that's 23 x 4 = 92 button inputs and a KeyWiz!
Was programming in RB-Joy just way too complicated for you - or you just wanted keyboard and gamepad buttons b/c you could - which is cool also!!! :cheers:
Basically just giving you a hard time for no apparent reason. :laugh2:
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When people ask me how much everything cost, I have them count the unused posted and multiply by two. :cheers: Then I tell them, "Nah, it really wasn't that much. That would be crazy!"
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I decided to go with the standard marquee size and shape. I had to compromise because I'm only three inches from the ceiling of my basement. It's close to being done.
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Bought my computer today. I have the same processor in my laptop and it is great. Seemed like a good deal. Great guy to deal with so far. Here is what I bought for $210 shipped:
AMD 64 3200+ Asus K8V SE Deluxe 1GB Mushkin PC3200
Link to info about Motherboard:
http://www.cooltechzone.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=1037 (http://www.cooltechzone.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=1037)
Link to info about Processor:
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/ProductInformation/0,,30_118_9485_9487,00.html?redir=CPAT01 (http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/ProductInformation/0,,30_118_9485_9487,00.html?redir=CPAT01)
Link to Ram:
http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1668 (http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1668)
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Updated marquee. Forgot to flatten image before resizing.
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Ever since I started thinking about this project, I knew I wanted to decase my t.v., but I didn't know what I was going to do about a bracket for it. I did not want any bolts on the sides and that just added to the fun. On the way home from OSU the other night, I got the idea to make the bracket out of square tubing, a steel plate, and a 2" wide piece of steel. Although I don't have any construction pics, I do have completed pics. It took about four hours to make, but most of that was due to being inexperienced with metal. I tried welding first, but alas, my weld-fu is weak. I used clamps and a drill press to make the holes. I used a metal chop saw to make the cuts and a metal bender for the one bend at the bottom. Also, I used a 4" piece of MDF to hold the monitor inside the cabinet. Now after I paint, all I have to do is add another piece on top of that and the monitor will be very snug. It is by far the coolest thing I've made in awhile. Here are pics of the completed brackets:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47915;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47917;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47919;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47921;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47923;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47925;image)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47927;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47929;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47931;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47933;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47935;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47937;image)
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That's REALLY cool McCoy. So you made the shelf that the chassis is bolted to? That addresses all my concerns about a decased TV instead of an arcade monitor.
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Yes, I made the entire contraption. I didn't know where to get a monitor bracket without paying an arm and a leg, so it was pretty cool to just start with plain metal and make it happen. :cheers:
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Wow. Very impressive McCoy. Now I'm embarrased to show my jury-rigged bent-metal with pieces of wood and stacked-washer contraption that I call my "custom monitor mount" :)
Looking good.
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:laugh2: I have been following your work with keen interest, I have been recently getting the itch to build another one for the rec room. I have only one piece of advice........I think it would look really good in Maze and Blue don't ya think with a great big "Go Blue" sideart!!!! yeah let the flaming begin I am a Wolverine fan. In all seriousness though I love your attention to detail and the amount of information you are posting please keep it up if only to give aid to the enemy!!
Spock
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I might as well paint it pink if I was going to do that! :cheers: Thanks for the compliments fellas. I am sorry to hear spock that life was not that kind to you. :cry: I will keep the details coming. Today I am buying the 15" monitor! :applaud:
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That bracket is nice, well done. When I first glanced at it I expected to read that you decided to go with an arcade monitor instead.
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Well, I went to buy a 15" monitor today and they are actually pretty hard to find. Yes they are around, but in the end, I decided to get a perfect 17" for $175. I knew it was too big when I bought it, but what the heck, right? Here are some pics of my day:
Here is the monitor before it knew what hit it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47970;image)
First I had to determine just how big of an area I would need (thanks to Kevin for taking the pic :cheers:):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47972;image)
I made a simple jig. I set the monitor 1 3/4"'s back from the front. That puts the monitor right up by the plexi:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47974;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47976;image)
I by chance discovered that the distance needed on the backside to keep the monitor flush with the marquee shelf was exactly two pieces of mdf. So I made a bracket that attaches from the top so I would have access to the power cord and the vga out. Although not planned, it turned out to be pretty ingenious if I do say so myself:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47978;image)
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Here is the monitor area routed out and almost ready for action:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47980;image)
Here are a couple pics of the monitor mounted. It will look much more natural once I get the plexi on there:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47982;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47984;image)
Here is upclose pics of the front and the back. Notice on the bracket I used screws for the extra support:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47986;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47988;image)
Almost ready for painting! I have one more innovative idea up my sleave, but I have to do a little research. Tomorrow I'm going to finish some small details on the cabinet and get the painting started.
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I got half of the LiteMite boards wired up tonight! All the grounds are done, now I just have 14 left to direct wire. I busted out the ledwiz software on the laptop and it was a thing of beauty. :applaud: So, I am hoping by Sunday night to have the wiring of the cp complete.
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I sense a MameyTM (http://www.mameworld.net/massive/NEWMAMEY/awards.html) in evolution.
This is one of the coolest projects I've seen in a while. Great job.
-D
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Oh, I think I'm a far cry from that stage. I heard I had to grow my hair out like Danny to even be considered.
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I sense a MameyTM (http://www.mameworld.net/massive/NEWMAMEY/awards.html) in evolution.
This is one of the coolest projects I've seen in a while. Great job.
-D
That's what I'm thinking. I hope mccoy doesn't screw it up. ;D
McCoy:
Is the 17" monitor to display the controls and game info on launch? If so, I would be interested to know how it all works.
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Initially, I would like it to have two functions. First, when Howard gets his dual screen coding done, I would like to use Johnny5 controls program to view what controls are to be used. In conjunction with powermame, it should be very difficult to not know how to play a game. 2nd, I envision watching sportscenter as I play Golden Tee, or a dvd if I'm playing a console rpg or something. In the future, I hope that a Golden Tee Live setup would not be impossible, but I'm not holding my breath. I also think it would be excellent to have my own instructional or trash talking videos when I fire up some of my favorite games. It could be a simple batch file callup with mamewah or something. Who knows, maybe someday there will be a FE that I could use to select my games on the clear lcd and play on the t.v.? That would be kickbutt! :cheers:
P.S. I may have screwed up. I just decided to mount the plunger without measuring the cp to make sure it would all fit. We'll find out tonight when I get home. Isn't college grand?! This is now my project for one of my classes.
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I installed the coindoor area and tried to figure out where I want to mount the light guns.
Here is a couple of pics of the cabinet just for poop and giggles:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48008;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48010;image)
Here is the coindoor area after wood putty and sanding:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48012;image)
I think this is a perfect area for the guns. I don't think they'll get knocked off because P3 and P4 will be far enough away. I guess I'll find out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48014;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48016;image)
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I decided without the control panel, I would make a wise decision and install the plunger! :banghead: I just took a shot in the dark. I guess I'll find out soon enough if it will work.
I took some measurements and then drew up a little template:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48018;image)
I used various drill bit sizes to drill out the template:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48020;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48022;image)
I was really happy with the fit:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48024;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48026;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48028;image)
I left about an 1/8" at the bottom to clear the t molding:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48030;image)
I used a weird combo of washers and a machine screw to hold it into place. All in all, very satisfied with the results, (as long as it fits :banghead:):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48032;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48034;image)
Now, I have to find someone to make the pressure sensitive device for the plunger. I didn't know if this was going to be a reality or not, so I'm pretty stoked about it.
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While I'm thinking about it, I believe that the t.v. needs to be moved up about an 1 1/2". I will look into this on Monday. It shouldn't be a crazy hard fix and if I let it go, it will bother me for eternity. Well maybe not eternity, but I digress.
P.S. This evening I plan on continuing wiring of the LEDWiz and possible the leaf switches. I brought the cp box home to see if the plunger fits :banghead:, and it would be excellent if I can have it almost totally done for Monday. :dizzy:
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The TV seems like it needs to go up a little and be angled forward a bit too.
It looks really good but to me the TV does seem kind of sunk in there.
-Dweebs
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The angle of the t.v. is 45 degrees, almost identical to the Golden Tee machine. A huge difference that I love about this cabinet as compared to my old one is the height of the cp. It is perfect for a regular stool or standing up. I practiced standing about 4 feet away to use the light guns, and it looks like it is going to work very well. I do have the monitor sunk for strategic reasons. Being an avid Golden Tee fan, I hit the heck out of the trackball and like most idiots slam the monitor at the same time. By recessing it, I want to have enough give as to never having to worry about any accidents.
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Ahhh, as well thought out as everything is on this thing I figured you did it for a reason.
-Dweebs
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This cabinet looks photoshopped. its fake.
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Man! Busted again! No more photoshop for me.
I received the computer today. It was packaged nicely, but man was it dirty! I've got some pics to show the exciting cleanup! Enjoy! :blah:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48054;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48056;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48058;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48060;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48062;image)
Now I need to get this badboy tested. I wonder if it will kick out smoke like a diesel engine?!
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Well, after the exciting chore of cleaning the computer, I decided to waste some more tiime and see if the plunger would fit :banghead:. Amazingly, it did! :cheers: I was very happy with the location, because on the 49 way is going to hopefully have the rotary adaptor and the trackball is going to have a support base underneath it. Otherwise, I was crazy lucky on the location. (I did have an idea of what I was doing, but you never know. The pic with the cp sitting on the box is such a tease. The wiring is :censored: tedious.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48064;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48066;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48068;image)
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I finished the wiring of the LEDWiz tonight. I need to clean up the wiring a lot, but I'm glad to have it done. I also mounted the hinge to both the cp and the cp box. Here are a couple of pics of how I did the LEDWiz wiring:
I removed all of the leaf switches so I would have finger room. I ran the common line first(orange). After that, I ran the individual lines. I will clean up the mess a little later.
Here is how Kneivels wiring really looked before the cleanup.(Just kidding Kneivel ;D):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48136;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48138;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48140;image)
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This almost brought a tear to my eye:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48144;image)
Here are some of the labels from MikeDeuce lit up. Cool little product:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48146;image)
One last pick before I passed out for the evening. One stage closer to completion:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48148;image)
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That plunger scares me. I can see somebody putting a little extra into their golden tee swing and bouncing their boys off that. OUCH.
Keep up the great work.
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Mccoy,
This is coming out really clean and original too. You should be really proud when this is done. You sure got alot of gear up under that CP! This is probably the most expensive cab I have seen.
I'm not a fan of sports crud on an arcade cabinet but it looks darned nice.
Good fer you! :applaud:
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This is probably the most expensive cab I have seen.
He told his wife he won a parts giveaway from Retroblast. When she sees the credit card bill, he may need a place to sleep for awhile.
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I had planned to sleep in the control panel. Sure it will be a little tight, but I'm sure there is room in there somewhere. As for the Golden Tee, busted balls theory, unless they are humping the cabinet, they should be safe. That was the only place I could locate it. Trust me, I've thought and thought about where to put that dang thing. Thanks for the compliments fellas. Between the good sentiments and seeing the results of the cabinet are great motivators! :cheers:
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Mccoy,
This is coming out really clean and original too. You should be really proud when this is done. You sure got alot of gear up under that CP! This is probably the most expensive cab I have seen.
I'm not a fan of sports crud on an arcade cabinet but it looks darned nice.
Good fer you! :applaud:
i'm not a fan of sports on an arcade cab, but i agree with mccoy , this has to be one of the best panel ever, great job...
the final cab will go straight to the HALL OF FAME :notworthy:
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Thank you very much for the compliments. I fired up the computer today and it runs like a champ! That was a big worry for me. Now it's on to mounting this motha'.
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mount? uh huh huh huh :laugh2: so whens the punchout party you old goat?
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I had a pretty productive day today. I had the opportunity to get the cabinet construction done and primed. I found a powercord sitting around and decided to use it. Here is a quick pictorial of how I did it:
Here is the powerswitch. I love authentic items:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48288;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48290;image)
First I decided where to locate the switch and I cut the hole. I brad nailed some guide strips, rough cut out the center and finally, routed out the area and made it purty:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48282;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48284;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48286;image)
Here is the powerswitch and its new home:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48292;image)
Here is the back of the cabinet with the new panel mounted:(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48294;image)
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Here is the cabinet finished. I added the back of the marquee and the top piece of the cabinet. I also have a door for the back and plan on using a key lock to keep the nosy bodies out. Here are the final pics of the cabinet right before priming and a pic of the cabinet primed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48302;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48296;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48298;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48300;image)
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I also decided to fix the monitor bracket. While doing so, I also made a nice retainer piece to hold the monitor solid and provide a perfect surface to hold the plexiglass! Enjoy:
Here is how much I moved the monitor brackets. About an inch or so up and about an inch or so forward as well:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48306;image)
I had to cut a little of the support piece on the betabrite shelf:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48308;image)
Here is a clamp holding the bracket in place:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48310;image)
Moving the bracket was a good decision I believe. :cheers: to the observant ones following this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48312;image)
I also bought the plexiglass. It cost $65! There are some big plans for that badboy:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48314;image)
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I was able to paint roll on two coats of semi gloss today. I also spray painted the inside, just to make sure everything was protected. The exterior looks good and that's the important part. The camera has dust on the lense giving the spotty appearance. Everything was primed before painting:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48347;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48349;image)
Also, I finally finished getting all the wire ran. I still need to clean it up, but it was terrible. If I never have to spray paint or wire again, it won't break my heart:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48351;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48353;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48355;image)
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Now, for something rather exciting. I started to make the jig to hold the plexiglass after it is heated. Here is what I did:
First, I traced the curve of the cabinet onto a piece of paper and then cut out two identical boards:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48359;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48357;image)
Second, I attached the two boards and the paper together and drilled holes in strategic spots. Next I cut dow rods to fit in the holes and put the jig together:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48361;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48363;image)
I hope to get to the bending before the weekend so I can paint the plexi on Sunday. Anyways, more updates to come!
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Well, I just finished molding the plexi. All in all it went very well. The top bend was bend a little cold, so there are two one inch hairline cracks. One on each side. I figure that I can put some sort of instruction or something on there. It is really not that big of a deal. I get pissed when I mess up anything and this didn't cause any sudden knee jerk reaction if that makes any sense. It could've been a ton worse. I'm going to attempt to route out the speaker areas next. I'll be back tonight with more pics. :applaud:
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This is just great work, I love the cab design.
(I cannot believe it took me that long to find this thread!)
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Wow, McCoy, I think you're actually carrying out what so many others are just dreaming about. Amazing work.
:cheers:
KenToad
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Thanks fellas! Wait until tonight. I couldn't just let Pixelhugger do all the fancy plexiglass work. I'm gonna give him a tiny run for his money. Why did I have to build mine in the same decade as him? :banghead:
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would really love to see pics of you molding your plexiglass......would love to see how you did it
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Today is a tribute to both Pixelhugger and Knievel. They have both provided blueprints for our hobby that are of the first degree. This is the best quality I could produce. The plexi work is a reflection of the lead Pixel has set and the cp wiring is in tribute to Knievel. I saw the work he did on the cp he made and it was very impressive. I know there are plenty of others out there who have set the ground work, but these two specifically inspire me everyday I work on this machine. :cheers: Now, an explanation of what I did today:
The first thing I did today was form the plexiglass to the contour of the cabinet. After getting the angles correct, I decided to cut out the areas for the speakers. Here is a pictorial of how I did it:
First, here is the machine that was used to bend the plexi. Very simple, yet very effective:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48445;image)
I measured where I needed to make the bend and marked it with a dry erase marker and pealed back the protective paper:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48447;image)
I ended up not using the template that I made :banghead: and used the cabinet itself. I don't want to talk about it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48449;image)
I marked the line where the next bend was to happen:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48451;image)
I peeled off the protective paper and transfered the marking to the plexi directly. I erased most of the mark before it got too hot on the bender:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48453;image)
When I went to bend the second section, it cooled too quickly. When I reheated it, I tried to bend it too early and that caused an inch hairline crack on both sides. Here is the finished piece and a closeup of one of the cracks. They will be easily hidden:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48469;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48471;image)
All in all, I was very happy with the results. The bends are a perfect fit! Since I've not bent anything bigger than a letter holder, it was pretty cool. It seemed like so many things could've went wrong. I can handle the two little cracks.
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That went so well, I decided to cut out the area where the speakers will go. On my last cabinet, I cut off the computer speakers and used Sony Explode speakers. I didn't want to use car speakers this time, so I decided to use the original speakers. The more I sat there and looked at them, the more my gears started to spin. Here is what happened and the results. I still need to use the 1/8" round over bit, but you get the idea:
First, I took my good ol' time and made a template out of mdf. Here it is just before I routed it out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48473;image)
Here is the template after routing. Gosh I love routers!:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48475;image)
I used a piece of plywood underneath and sandwiched the plexi between the template and the plywood. I had also drawn my measurements on the plexi so I could easily line them up:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48477;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48475;image)
Here are a couple pics after the initial routing was done. I was uber nervous about cracking the plexi. I believe having pressure on both sides is what helps avoid that issue:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48479;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48481;image)
Here are a few pics of the plexi sitting back on the cabinet:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48483;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48485;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48487;image)
I used the grommets that came on the speakers and drilled out holes for them. Once mounted, the grills pushed right into place:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48489;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48537;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48539;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48541;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48543;image)
It's no dashboard like Pixels, but you gotta start somewhere right?
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Now, this is for Knievel. I've wired four of these beasts and this by far was the craziest. Take a gander at the wiring pics above. Just imagine how long it took to clean it up. :banghead: I love solid strand, but boy does it take forever! Here are some pics of the finished product. I can't stress how happy I am that the wiring is done! :applaud:
I should've invested in plastic wire tie production:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48491;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48493;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48495;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48497;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48499;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48501;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48503;image)
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That wiring is sick.
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HOLY COW!!
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it is a real pleasure to read the update every day about this cab :applaud:
this is a master wirering job :notworthy:
GREAT GREAT GREAT GREAT :applaud:
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Thanks fellas! I appreciate the positive feedback! :cheers: I have decided not to use the lightgun. I am making a xbox modded cabinet next, and it will go in that. I have concerns for the lightbars and Golden Tee. Also, the other cabinet has an upright screen, so I think the lightguns will work better on it. I'll live. Also, I have marked the plexi for painting.
This weekend, I plan to do the following:
1) Paint the plexiglass
2) Paint the cp box
3) Create a nice box for the volume control(I don't like the manufacturers' creation. It will be mounted on the backside of the cp box near the Shazaam button.)
4) Mount the Motherboard, Powersource, and Harddrives to the control board and get them ready to be installed.
5) Figure out general layout for interior of the cabinet and make sure everything has its place.
6) Get marquee ordered from Scott
7) Check out my software status and begin to reorganize my collections.
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HOLY... FREAKING... CRAP!! :o :o :o
That is sooooooo cool!!! NICELY DONE! :applaud: :applaud: Gotta put this one on autonotify!
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This is just great work, I love the cab design.
(I cannot believe it took me that long to find this thread!)
Ditto
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I painted the plexiglass last night. On my first cabinet I hand painted the plexi. This time I used spray paint and it was uber easy. It did take 5 coats, but it literally took a couple minutes to spray it on, and with no cleanup! For the noobs: If you are going to paint, paint it on the inside. It doesn't matter how ugly it is on that side, it looks perfect on the other side. Here is a little pictorial on how I painted it.
The very first thing I did was use a dry erase marker to draw the areas I didn't want painted while the plexi was in the cabinet. That is very important!
First, I rounded up all the supplies: A newspaper, painters tape, and the plexi. I also used a hobby knife to cut the excess tape off the corners:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48746;image)
Second, I taped off the areas using the marker lines. I used a hobby knife to cut excess tape off of the corners:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48748;image)
I used a quick drying spray paint on the plexi. I put five coats on. Although it wouldn't of mattered if the paint ran, I didn't want it to, so I took it easy. I held the plexi up to a bright light to make sure there were no light areas.:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48750;image)
Here is the backside before the paper was removed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48752;image)
Here is the final product. I love that look. I would've liked a nice bezel in there with instructions or whatnot, but you can't beat the quality of the look it gives:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48754;image)
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Okay, I don't respond to each and every project announcement (though I've read a great number of them), but I just have to say that that is one of the sickest, awesomest and oustanding looking cabs I've ever seen. The attention to detail really shows in your work.
I'm just jealous that you make it look so effortless. I couldn't cut a straight line if God himself bestowed me with some heavenly ripguide that's miraculously idiot-proof - and there you are, bending plexiglass without breaking a sweat.
Man, good job! :cheers:
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Thanks a ton man! I honestly thought non stop about this project for about 8 months. It has been neat as to how things are coming together. I predict that I will be about 90% done in two weeks. I have a bottleneck of things to do right now, but I should be out of the woods soon.
I am now trying to determine where to locate the volume control. This is not fun, as I have prepared for most everything else. Such a dumb little thing to do and such a pain in the butt!
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Thanks a ton man! I honestly thought non stop about this project for about 8 months. It has been neat as to how things are coming together. I predict that I will be about 90% done in two weeks. I have a bottleneck of things to do right now, but I should be out of the woods soon.
I am now trying to determine where to locate the volume control. This is not fun, as I have prepared for most everything else. Such a dumb little thing to do and such a pain in the butt!
Under the CP.
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My exact thoughts. Pics to come later tonight. :cheers:
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I'm not crazy about frankenpanels, but that is impressive!!
I would love to have a cab built just like the bottom half of that one.....basically a wooden candy cab. (Two player only though ;D ) Any plans to post your blueprints?
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Just went back through 6 pages to catch up on this build. DAMMMMIT Mccoy I am really impressed. I've been so absorbed in my own project for so long I was unaware of the amazing stuff other people are doing. I've been seriously humbled. That monitor mount is crazy!!! And the plexi bending jig thingy. Man that stuff is just inspiring!
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Pixel, that means a ton coming from you. I think we share a lot of the same frustrations on our projects. I've been following your project for the past ten years and I decided to get started on mine. I am lucky though, I'm given the opportunity to work on it at OSU all day, so I get an advantage over most.
EyeDoc, the only blueprints I have are an Adobe Illustrator file that is of the side and all the pictures. I hope to make a tutorial or pictorial on how to build a cabinet. I have been trying to offer pictorials on some of the smaller details that are hard to find. I hope to combine these things so noobs of the world have another resource to find out how to do the dumb things like paint the plexiglass or use a metal cp or whatever.
Thanks again fellas, I'm gonna keep plugging away. :cheers:
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Today I accomplished a few tedious things that I have been wanting to finish. I figured out what to do with the volume controls, made a cabinet friendly harddrive holder, and I transfered all my software files to the new computer. Here is a pictorial of how I mounted the volume controls.
I decided to put them on the bottom of the cp box. I also didn't like the looks of the factory box it came in. I decided that plexiglass would be an easy option. Here are the supplies used:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48915;image)
I decased the controls and drew the hole template onto the plexiglass:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48917;image)
I then uses standard drill bits to drill the holes:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48919;image)
Here is a picture of the controller sitting loose in the plexi. I was happy with the looks:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48921;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48923;image)
Once I decided that it looked okay and would function, I had to figure out where to locate it on the cp. I choose the 1P side and just far enough in that you would have to look for it to find it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48928;image)
I routed out the area and superglued the plexi into the spot:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48930;image)
Here is to give some perspective of its location. I also drilled out a spot for the Shazaam button on the front left side of the cp box:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48932;image)
I also painted the controls black to match the cabinet. All in all, I'm very happy with the results. Once I get the box painted, I'll show some completed pics:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48934;image)
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If I had one major ---smurf--- from my first cabinet, it was how ridiculously hard it was to mess with the computer and especially the harddrives when it was decased. I've been thinking about a solution and I used $2 in plexi to find it. Here is a tutorial on how I made it. There are no holes drilled yet, but it should be obvious how the shelving works. I tried to leave as much space as possible for cooling. Let me know what you guys think on this one as I don't want to burn up the goods. I'm contemplating throwing a little fan on it, but I don't think it's necessary.
Okay, I just measured a Harddrive and that is how I made my cuts. I wanted it big enough for four drives and I just cut it as I went. Here are the supplies used:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48936;image)
I only exposed the parts I was glueing and used that as a rough guide:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48938;image)
I glued and clamped down the shelves for both sides:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48940;image)
Here is one half complete:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48942;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48944;image)
I just glued on a top and bottom and a couple support pieces. All in all, it took a little over an hour. I also added a long piece on one side for mounting purposes. I plan to paint this black tomorrow. More pics to come:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48946;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=48948;image)
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Don't paint it black - it looks badass clear like that.
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Last cabinet you'll ever build eh? What if I offered a collection of dead presidents?
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You'd have one dead builder from insanity! :dizzy:
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Well, today I took everything back to the workshop to put it all together. :applaud: I didn't get a lot done today but it was a very exciting day indeed. Seeing it all together just had Golden Tee written all over it! I did mount the motherboard, powersource, and harddrive shelf to a removal piece of mdf. That was again just a huge pet peeve of mine on my first cabinet. I hated messing with the computer stuff because it was such a ---smurfette--- to remove anything. This should be somewhat hassle free.
Not much description here, just pics:
Here is the board I used after painting
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49149;image)
I measured out the holes on the motherboard, drilled out the locations, and put in the standoffs:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49151;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49153;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49155;image)
Here is everything mounted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49157;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49159;image)
Here it is sitting in the cabinet:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49163;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49165;image)
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One last update. Nothing special, just a few pics of the cabinet and the painting of the cp:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49161;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49167;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49169;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49171;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49173;image)
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Alright dude, I gotta hand it to ya, that's some awesome work. But, really, you need to go spend some time with your woman now.
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Nah, just dedicate the cab to her in a private ceremony. I'm sure she'll forgive you for ignoring her these past 8 months during the planning and construction phases of the cabinet. ;D
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Nah, just dedicate the cab to her in a private ceremony.
That cab is awesome but that just aint gonna work. Why not have wedding pictures and family photos cycle through on the top monitor in a continual loop. Maybe then you could get her to forgive you, but I doubt it.
-D
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Wife? What wife? If worse comes to worse, I'll have to get the internets for the top monitor. :censored:
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Hey McCoy have had a couple people sent my way from you and thought I'd check out your work. Looks like you've been very busy. ;D
Glad to see it's coming along, but where is the project you were talking with me about?
Also call me paranoid, but is anyone besides me worried about the hard drives being so close to the monitor and degaussing circuit?
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I decided to go with the bigger monitor instead of the PSOnce screen. Also, I may shield everything that is on that board. I'm still contemplating what to do. Stop making me paranoid! :)
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Wife? What wife? If worse comes to worse, I'll have to get the internets for the top monitor. :censored:
She spent last night with me, but..............I couldn't get her to stop calling out your name at the most inopportune times. It was quite annoying. >:D :angel: >:D :angel:
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Finally she is yelling out my name. If I had to hear one more random name I was gonna shoot her. :hissy:
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McCoy, I couldn't find the answer to my question in the depths of this thread. Where in the hell did you get a terabyte of hard drive for $300?
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I keep buying 300 gigs when they drop at or below $100. Hope that helps explain better.
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Sure does.
How are you going to go about getting the second monitor up and running? A second video card? I don't really understand how that works.
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Well, a lot of the functionality relies on HowardC. He is working on some dual monitor support. As of now, mame allows for monitor selection, so for mame specifically, I could have the FE on the main monitor(17"), and have mame start on the second monitor(t.v.). When mame starts, johnny5 would replace the fe on the 17". Now in the long run, I would like to have the t.v. as the main monitor and have the FE on the secondary monitor. Otherwise, have them flipped so this setup would work with all emulators. Howard's program, the way I understand it, is supposed to allow me the ability to choose what programs use what monitor.
To answer your question, right now, it will have limited capabilities, but in the future I think it will have a bunch of utility.
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Sweet. BTW, do you ever sleep? You post at all hours of the night.
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To answer your question, right now, it will have limited capabilities, but in the future I think it will have a bunch of utility.
In the NEAR future, judging by Aaron's re-write of the video core: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=54061.0
I think Horseboy was asking more about the How rather than the Why.
I would assume this would be either a dual head video card or possibly you can use multiple video cards, and the appropriate software.
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Horseboy, I sleep a little here, a little there.
Tiger, how have you been? Hope things are going well in your neck of the woods.
I ordered the marquee last night and the coindoor yesterday. Talk about getting excited! :applaud: I fired up some gt2k just to tease myself. Everything is running fine. I had to install some audio drivers, but that was an easy fix. I don't know how to configure the component video just yet, but I am going to try and tackle that one today. More updates to come.
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more pictures
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Patient young jedi. :dizzy:
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Wow McCoy, I'm impressed. Nice work, man!
-S
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Fantastic McCoy,
The workmanship is awesome and top notch, but I'm highly disappointed that
you haven't posted any pics today. I go to 3 places on the net, BYOAC to look at your
thread, ESPN, and that other board.....now post pics before I get down to 2
and no excuses about a life or something
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[Patient young jedi.]
I'm not seeing the picture here. Did it not load properly?
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Here is the pinball button housings. I made them from eyeballing the measurements. I was very happy with the looks. Tomorrow I will clean them up and paint them.
First I made up my a template on cardboard:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49413;image)
After I cut and bent the metal, I sat them in the cabinet to see how they fit:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49415;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49417;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49419;image)
Here are the enclosures from a few angles:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49421;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49423;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49425;image)
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Allright, for Timoe, here are some pics of the cabinet. I also took pics of the power button and the shazaam button. Enjoy! :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49427;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49429;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49435;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49437;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49439;image)
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Pixel, here are some upclose pics of the bezel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49431;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49433;image)
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^ that guy wears an Atari T-shirt. What-a geek. (look in the reflection)
Those are the pics! wow.
When do you get your Tmolding?
Do you have any close ups of that nonsense blinking thing between your two monitors?
Whats that big giant hole for, where a coin door should go?
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I love Atari. I gave up the whole trying to not look the part long ago.
I ordered the tmolding tonight. I have 5/8th's already and the 3/4 should be here by Tuesday.
Here is a pic of that nonsense on my old cabinet:
(http://www.ohiostate.photosite.com/~photos/tn/581_1024.ts1124320000000.jpg)
I also just paid for the 4 person over/under coindoor. Talk about making me sick to my stomach! I was going to just put a waste paper basket there, but I guess I'll go with the door since you mentioned it. ;)
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Thats really cool. I guess if you could find a coin door "type" device to plug that hole that would look good also.
That betabrite thing is neat. Rather than google like an upwardly mobile individual, do you have any links to info on how to incorporate the betabrite stuff?
Your cabinet is cool now. Its got everything.
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Silver made a program that will look at your rom folders and produce files that are displayed on the beta bright. You can of course customize them if you like. For example, with mamewah, when you switch emulators, it tells you the emulator you are using and then when you select the game it displays the title. Once you exit, it goes back to the default emulator message and changes with each emulator. I'm too lazy as well to find the linky's. :cheers:
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That thing is a monster!. Any guess as to how much it weighs? This is an awesome job. You gotta be grinnin ear to ear looking at this thing.
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It probably weighs a couple hundred pounds, but the t.v. comes out easy and the control panel comes off, so it won't be that bad when moving. BTW, here is a pic I took of myself yesterday(Don't mind the office tan): ;D
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no pic. You aren't trying to point us to your C-drive by any chance are you? :D
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I guess I'll repost it from another angle:
:cheers:
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Your wiring sorting skills just make me sick. And all that plexi bending... just who do you think you are mister!
Yes. The grand master builder of grail cabinets just might be the correct answer... NOW GET OFF MY LAWN!!
;D
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Geez, thanks a lot! :cheers: I was configuring all day today. I had an issue with the dual monitor stuff, and I at least have them both working.
I want to stress very highly:
I would like to thank Howard Casto for the suggestion to use component video. It is an amazing quality difference compared to s video. Thanks a ton Howard! This bud's for you! :cheers:
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Geez, thanks a lot! :cheers: I was configuring all day today. I had an issue with the dual monitor stuff, and I at least have them both working.
I want to stress very highly:
I would like to thank Howard Casto for the suggestion to use component video. It is an amazing quality difference compared to s video. Thanks a ton Howard! This bud's for you! :cheers:
How does small text look on the screen through component video?
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Very legible. It almost looks like a computer monitor. Not quite, but bells better than s video. That was one of the main reasons that I wanted dual screen.
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Hello all. New here, but I wanted to comment on this cab. It is looking most excellent.
I have a question as well. This looks to be the exact layout I want for my cp when I finally am able to build it in about 8-10 months when my house is done. Would you be willing to send me a copy of the layout you have done in the original Photoshop or Illustrator files? I promise to credit you in my eventual project announcement.
Immitation is the sincerest form of flattery. :cheers:
Thanks,
John
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Yeah, that wouldn't be a problem! Thanks for the compliments. :cheers:
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Yeah, that wouldn't be a problem! Thanks for the compliments. :cheers:
Awesome! ;D
I've been checking out as many of these projects as possible, and all of them are great. I am very excited to get started, and your cp is exactly what I'm looking for. Golden Tee and SF2 are going to get the most play on my machine, which seems to be how you've designed your cp.
John
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Whew, Mccoy I thought you were dead. 16 hours without a post...
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Still kickin'! :cheers:
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I received the marquee today! It freaking rocks! Thanks Scott! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
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So where are you putting the new perfect 360 you just stole from me? :)
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So where are you putting the new perfect 360 you just stole from me? :)
Bend over and he'll show you. :o
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Whoa dude, where do you think you are?
:)
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So where are you putting the new perfect 360 you just stole from me? :)
I'm pretty sure Mark was kidding with ya there. I don't know what I'm gonna do with it yet. Probably tear apart my cp and add it right in front of the trackball.
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I bet it would look sweet if you mounted it in between the two monitors.
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Seems like you have an "eye" for this sort of thing. ;)
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I took a second to take a pic of some of my classmates "testing" the machine. I also helped test to ensure quality control. Golden Tee lives again!!!!!!!! :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49966;image)
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Hey McCoy:
The monitor looks great - nice color saturation. Can you take a pic of just the screen running GT2K so I can see how sharp the small text is?
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I am currently running it with s video. I installed powerstrip yesterday, so I may tinker with the component very soon. I will say this, when I had it up and running, it was very very clear. :applaud:
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Put the freaking marquee in and install the T-molding. You're almost done - don't quit.
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I'm still plugging away. I get to bring it home tomorrow. I do have the t molding installed, but sadly, I ruined the marquee. I'll have to order another one from Scott. I had some scotch tape on it to hold it in place and it tore so easy. :badmood: Ah, what's another $25, right? :banghead:
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That is one awsome cab, i remeber chatting with you before you had even started and i thought it would be cool but this looks the buisness buddy... Now get over here and build me a jukebox.
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I was just about to say. You think the arcade is neat, wait until you see the jukebox I have planned.
I made it home today with the arcade. It will be setup in the garage for a couple weeks in case I want to finish anything. Eventually I'll have more pics! Now to get powermame to work. :applaud:
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SHENANIGANS
Where are the pics with the T-molding and marquee? You can't just quit documenting this project before it's finished. Eventually my :censored: - do it now.
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Why powermame? What features does it provide above and beyond the others? Also, you've probably mentioneded it somewhere in this thread, but what front end are you going with? Thanks.
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Powermame supports the autoswitching for all 4 of his 49-way joysticks
Powermame supports some extra functionality for his Led-Wiz button lighting system.
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Powermame leaps tall buildings with a single bound.
Powermame is faster than a speeding bullet.
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I've seen powermame bench press 500lbs
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Note: powermame only weighs 20 pounds
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I fired up powermame last night and I was quite amazed that when I hit pause, the machine started speaking to me. Very cool feature that Mike added. I will have more pictures. Be patient.
Note: Powermame has not been known to cause cancer in lab rats in California. But they could probably code that in.
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Who would win Chuck Norris or Powermame?
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And front end software?
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Who would win Chuck Norris or Powermame?
Powermame, hands down. But Jackie Chan or Bruce Lee's Ghost....
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And front end software?
Currently mamewah, but I am in the very very early stages of this. I will be researching much more in depth as time goes along. I'm just working on getting it playable. With s video on the t.v. it fits but is black and white, with component, it is amazing but doesn't fit the screen, so I have to work on all that first.
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Currently mamewah, but I am in the very very early stages of this. I will be researching much more in depth as time goes along. I'm just working on getting it playable. With s video on the t.v. it fits but is black and white, with component, it is amazing but doesn't fit the screen, so I have to work on all that first.
If you get it to fit, please let me know how. I've tried running Mamewah in 640x432, but it just flat out dies when I start it up. My plan was to create a skin that just doesn't use the very top and bottom, but that just seems ugly.
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McCoy - quit dicking around. Put a 27" Multisync monitor in there with an ArcadeVGA card. You can put in a secondary PCI VGA card to run the LCD. I'll buy your 27" TV monitor for my Dreamcast cabinet. That way we'll both be happy.
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McCoy - quit dicking around. Put a 27" Multisync monitor in there with an ArcadeVGA card. You can put in a secondary PCI VGA card to run the LCD. I'll buy your 27" TV monitor for my Dreamcast cabinet. That way we'll both be happy.
You know what? You just gave me a great idea. I'm gonna build that xbox cabinet and I could use the t.v. in that one and get a monitor for the cabinet. It's gonna be hard to swing $500 though. :banghead: Dang you Markrvp!!!
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Do it now before you know what happens. That 27" TV with component input will look great with an XBOX. I just got component cables for mine and it looks fabulous. You will also really like having a multisync in your MAME cabinet. You don't have to get the ArcadeVGA right away as the Multisync monitor will work with a regular VGA card at 640x480 and 800x600.
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I've been reading a lot over at the avsforums and googling the overscan problem. I'm gonna give it a minute to try and figure out what is going on.
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As far as your overscan problem goes, you might want to look for the code to put in with your remote to get to your tv's secret menu. There you have options to configure the tv much like you would a pc or arcade monitor. I had to do this with my tv as I couldn't stand the overscan that was there. Now I have a bit of underscan but I'd rather have a half inch of black than have bits of game huds missing.
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As far as your overscan problem goes, you might want to look for the code to put in with your remote to get to your tv's secret menu. There you have options to configure the tv much like you would a pc or arcade monitor. I had to do this with my tv as I couldn't stand the overscan that was there. Now I have a bit of underscan but I'd rather have a half inch of black than have bits of game huds missing.
Personally, with my ATi converter and drivers I can keep the desktop at 640x432. With MAME, it adjusts properly when I have it set to 640x432. However, MAMEwah crashes when I try to configure it to 640x432.
I'd rather not go the hackish route with the TV controls. This is something that should definitely be possible in the software.
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:cheers:
pardon my interruption but.. I fricking love this Cabinet.
..
alright carry on with your regular posting.
;D ;D ;D
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Thanks man! :cheers:
Fellas, my roaming desktop is pretty big. I've seen a couple things on the avsforums that I will try tonight. It is frustrating though because now my s video is in black and white so I need to get something figured out. :banghead:
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Just take a picture of the installed T-molding for now. That should help anyway.
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Will do this evening. I've got to get to get this monitor issue resolved. I can't believe their is no good solution, but I've yet to even hit up the ATI forums. I must remain patient. Stupid life, keeping me all busy and stuff when I should be messing with important stuff.
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Will do this evening. I've got to get to get this monitor issue resolved. I can't believe their is no good solution, but I've yet to even hit up the ATI forums. I must remain patient. Stupid life, keeping me all busy and stuff when I should be messing with important stuff.
Are you using the ATi DVI-to-component adaptor? If so, make sure you have the latest catalyst drivers installed. At that point, run their little utility, and there's an option to switch the video output to "tv mode" or something along those lines. I only found it in the "Basic" menu, not the "Advanced."
I realize that's about as generic as you can get, but I hope it's enough for you to get to it. If you still can't find it, let me know and I'll look up the exact names of the software/menu/etc.
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Oh mama cita this is good news! I will report back later with my findings! I am using this dongle:
http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967
(http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967)
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I almost had it then I messed it up. I had the full windows bar at the bottom and I clicked something and poof! Totally jacked up resolution. I will probably have to go back to a previous save state and start over. :badmood:, but I'm still excited to see it at least close to where it should be. :applaud:
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Oh mama cita this is good news! I will report back later with my findings! I am using this dongle:
http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967
(http://shop.ati.com/product.asp?sku=2537967)
That's the one I'm using. If you get MAMEwah working in 640x432, for the love of God let me know how. :)
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When I switch primary monitors to the t.v., the resolutions all change and it goes back to an unusable state where the desktop is crazy big. Otherwise, I think it is forcing 800x600 on the t.v. if I make it the primary monitor. I did get the preview movies to play full screen on the t.v. while I was going through mamewah on the lcd. That was pretty sweet. :dizzy:
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That adapter says it converts VGA to HD Component Television. The TV you are using is not HDTV is it? Does it still work with non-HDTV monitors?
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I noticed the site said that but the adaptor is a convertor for YbPbr (or whatever it's called).
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I noticed the site said that but the adaptor is a convertor for YbPbr (or whatever it's called).
It does in fact work on non-HD TV's (such as my cheapo Insignia from Best Buy). :)
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I noticed the site said that but the adaptor is a convertor for YbPbr (or whatever it's called).
Which is component output. HD can be output through component as well as dvi and hdmi (I think that is what it is called). Televisions can have component inputs and not be HD ready/compatible. I have 2 TV's with component and Cox HD channels. 1 TV is HD ready and the other isn't. The HD ready tv will display HD but the other one won't. If that adapter is only for HD, that could very well be part of your problem.
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I noticed the site said that but the adaptor is a convertor for YbPbr (or whatever it's called).
It does in fact work on non-HD TV's (such as my cheapo Insignia from Best Buy). :)
If this is true...nevermind
-
One thing to note is that there are switches on the adaptor to set what mode it outputs.
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I did get the preview movies to play full screen on the t.v. while I was going through mamewah on the lcd. That was pretty sweet. :dizzy:
Wouldn't you want this switched? Or is this part of the problem I'm just not seeing? It is a pretty cool feature though. It's making me want to steal yet another of your ideas. ;D
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I guess I would, but I've yet to enjoy component the way it's supposed to be. The more I've thought of it, I've been trained to watching s video and it has taken me a minute to realize how clear the component is. This could solve many a problem as I've had a difficult time finding either a fe or emulator that likes playing on the secondary monitor. I just can't figure out how to make the resolution stay when I make the t.v. the primary monitor. :banghead:
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Have you tried setting the regkey in the .bat file? Mine is listed here:
HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\iAlm\Device0
HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\iAlm\Device1
It might be worth a shot.
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John, I'm dumb and don't understand what you mean there. Please explain if further detail what you're talking about.
Escher, your layouts have to be in the resolution that you want to use. If you have tried this, I am trully a dingleberry. If not, I would throw them in Photoshop and resize them and try that. I'll see if there is any topic on the mamewah forum at www.mameworld.info (http://www.mameworld.info).
Oh, by the way, I GOT THE T.V. TO WORK AT 640x432 AS THE PRIMARY MONITOR! I JUST TOLD MAME THE RESOLUTION NEEDED. SORRY FOR THE CAPS, BUT I'M YELLING THIS AS I'M TYPING. MY WIFE IS WONDering why I was doing that. Sorry honey.
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I could ---smurfing--- cry. I have got mamewah to work on the t.v.! I'm not yelling this time. Anyways, I am using mamewah 1.62b9, but downloaded 1.61 to get the layout editor. In it, you can change the layout to 640x432. I will have to use a photo editor to change the size of the background pic, but never the less, it worked. I do have one problem, my screen is split right down the middle and it looks like two of the same thing split by a 4" black bar down the middle. I'll investigate further, but at least it is viewable. Having the preview movie on the other screen is the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. :cheers:
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I just had another great moment in gaming history(okay, that might be a stretch). I think I may use the light guns on the computer monitor. It is at the right height for an adult, is not at an angle, and, the best part, I wouldn't have to stand that far away. The lightbars also wouldn't be that ugly located up there. Man, this is really coming together now. I may also experiment with some other front ends for the resolution issues. Man, youse guys should see it. :)
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That is a great idea for the LCD. :applaud: The GT cabs have that extreme angle for the monitor, which is good for the fingers and knuckles coming off the trackball, but probably not great for light gun action. I am humbled by your continued ingenuity on this project.
In regards to my earlier post, I figured that you could create a .reg file that the .bat file used by MameWah could load that might force a resolution change on your monitors.
i.e. - Launch Mamewah --> Mamewah runs .bat (batch) file --> .bat file runs .reg file --> .reg file forces your hkcc to change the resolution.
Since you got it to work without that, I'm assuming my solution was way more complicated than it needed to be. I haven't run Mamewah yet, so I'm not 100% familiar on how it works. Sometimes a fresh perspective helps, even if it's an idiotic solution like mine was. We always do that at work whenever there's a tough problem. Try and look from every angle, even if it doesn't make sense. It might lead to an epiphany, although more likely to a Miller Lite.
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I appreciate the help. Anyone on here will tell you, when it comes to software, I'm a bumbling idiot. I have mamewah down, but that is where it ends. Everything else is a battle. It took me longer to make that cp overlay in CS2 than it did to build the whole thing! :dizzy: BTW, it's almost Miller Time! :cheers:
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The pics are for Timoe (Keepin' an eye out for ya' ;) ) :
Here is a pic of the previews playing on the t.v. with a couple different emulators through mamewah:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50479;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50481;image)
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This is for Markrvp.
Here is a pic of the component video picture quality:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50483;image)
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Here is the mamewah problem with the split screen issue and now the preview movies playing on the lcd. Just think about the possibilities!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50485;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50487;image)
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Here is a little issue I'm having with the attract mode in Powermame:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50489;image)
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Here is the pinball buttons installed. I still have a little finishing to do, but they are great in application.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50491;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50493;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50495;image)
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I am strongly considering putting flat led's in the middle of the arrows for powermame use. I love that it shows all the controls when playing, and I think some of those flush mount led's would be perfect. I took a look under the cp and although I would be drilling through the controller, it wouldn't be hitting anything strategic I believe, so I will investigate further later on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50497;image)
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McCoy,
3am? Sleep my friend...sleep...
Project looks brilliant. Been watching your progress for a long time. Keep up the good work.
PS. OSU projected top 5 next year! Go Bucks! :cheers:
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WOW, just WOW!!!
BTW, not sure if it's still an issue, but you can use Multires - http://www.entechtaiwan.net/util/multires.shtm with a command line argument to change resolutions from a batch file.
If that helps!!!
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Thanks fellas! Tiger, the only issue with video I have with the t.v. is about a 5% overscan. I may try to use that code on the controller to adjust the picture on the t.v. But who knows? I have no clue what model of t.v. I have. A little research I presume. Also, for the life of me, when I have the usb cables plugged in, it gets stuck at the motherboard splash screen. :banghead: I've checked the bios about half a dozen times to figure out what is going on. I downloaded the drivers from asus and installed them as well. It stopped working after I uninstalled the ati video card driver a couple weeks back.
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It stopped working after I uninstalled the ati video card driver a couple weeks back.
Pretty sure ATI's website has a utility for COMPLETELY uninstalling their drivers. Just playing a hunch here, but it's worth a shot.
http://www.tweakguides.com/ATICAT_1.html and http://www.guru3d.com/article/atitraytools/189/ are worth looking at also if you haven't already.
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Thanks! I'll give it a shot. The coindoor arrived today! :applaud: Time for goodness.
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The pics are for Timoe (Keepin' an eye out for ya' ;) ) :
Aw yeah, its been too long. Those are the pics. :cheers: Put the coin door in there as soon as you can find someone to help to unload the behemoth.
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Coindoor is in. Pics at eleven.
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Crap, just realized that I forgot the pics of the coindoor. :banghead:
I did get mamewah to work. In the layout designer, I made the layout 640x432 and the refresh rate at 30. Here are the results. I also have included pics of the component font at 11 point for Markrvp.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50557;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50559;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50561;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50563;image)
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Again - WOW!
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Thanks fellas! Tiger, the only issue with video I have with the t.v. is about a 5% overscan. I may try to use that code on the controller to adjust the picture on the t.v. But who knows?
The ATI drivers have adjustments in the "Screen Adjustments" settings for the attached TV, which should help to remove overscan. (You can adjust screen size and position).
If the fails, powerstrip will be able to do this - it has a clever "resolution in a resolution" design feature to create an active picture that just fits your viewable screen, removing overscan.
The ATI solution is much easier to use though.
PS Awesome project, I love it. Glad to see the BetaBrite is still going strong!
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Thanks Silver! I have to dig up the old thread on the betabrite software as I have to remake a bunch of the lists. I love that thing! :cheers: Also, I'll give the ATI software another go, but I couldn't find the dang thing. I also didn't see that in Powerstrip, but I have a lot going on right now. :dizzy:
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So McCoy, if I understand what I'm seeing correctly - when you have a game highlighted in MameWah on the 27" TV, the game movie file plays on the LCD? Is the game screen in the FE window (on the right) also animated or is it a still screen shot?
That really is freaking awesome.
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I almost don't want to build my cab now, because it will never be this good.
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It is a .avi also playing there. I am planning on replacing that movie on the FE with the Johhny 5 control picture. So, the .avi will play on the lcd while you will be able to see what controls you'll need on the t.v.. I think to do this, I'll have to keep the .avi's on the fe layout, just make the window really small. That way I still see them on the lcd. It is pretty freaking awesome. I will delve into Johhny 5 when I get back from vacation next Sunday.
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I almost don't want to build my cab now, because it will never be this good.
Thanks! :cheers:
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I will be out of town until next Sunday. I'll check in when I can, but we're hitting eight national parks, so who knows? Thanks for the support guys and as always, comments good or bad, are welcome. :applaud:
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comments good or bad, are welcome. :applaud:
Your machine sucks, when can I buy one!!! (j/k) (Markrvp will understand this).
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I will be out of town until next Sunday. I'll check in when I can, but we're hitting eight national parks, so who knows? Thanks for the support guys and as always, comments good or bad, are welcome. :applaud:
Wait.. You mean vacations aren't used for building cabs?? You can actually GO places?
Wow...
Have Fun!! :cheers:
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Bew-tea-full! Love the two monitor idea! :applaud:
Now you just need to hook up a Nintendo DS to it! ;)
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where do you get those betabright lcds at?
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I bought mine at Sam's Club for $170.
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Mccoy, once your done with this cab...I'M COMING OVER TO PLAY IT FOR HOURS!!!! :notworthy:
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We need someone to sum up this thread, especially a parts list. I aspire to build one of these someday.
Jacktucky
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I'll see what I can do about the right up Jack. I have enough pictures to give a partial pictorial. I made a layout for mamewah with my wonderful hours in a Suburban with 7 adults total. (Yeah, it was that fun. :banghead: ) It's not completely done, but the lower right box is for Johnny 5 controls and I need to make a box for the marquees in the upper right. The .avi intro movies will play on the second monitor, so they are not needed on this screen.
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Here are the control layouts for Johhny 5 so far.
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Tonights projects are getting the 49ways to work with z26 and using an AHK to have escape work after two seconds to avoid accidental exiting.
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wow.....this makes me want to completly redesign my cab....u :censored: jerk.....how dare you build an awsome cab and make me want to shell out more money to redo mine... j/k
Fantastic work....which actually brings up a question...did you by chance sketch down or make some kind of plan for the cab design it's self? I'm curious to see some of the details in the cab it's self.
Again, fantastic work...gets me motivated to accomplish something so awsome.
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Now that's my kind of compliment! :cheers: I actually went to a BW3 restaurant and made a measured sketch of a GTLive machine. I also made a side drawing in Illustrator. I will try to get both on here in the near future.
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I was able to get the 49 ways to work with z26. I can't get the resolution correct for the t.v. :badmood: I'm having issues with my johhny5 jpg and I'm waiting on Howard.
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I've been plugging away at the software side of things.
I have the following working with mamewah:
Mame
Playstation
Nintendo 64
Super Nintendo
Nintendo
Sega Genesis (Still need bios to get 32, and CD working in Gens)
Turbo Graphix 16
Visual Pinball
I have Atari 2600 working, but I can't get the command line version of z26 (not x26), to open in a windowed state. The .cli file isn't getting picked up for some reason so I can't use if for now since I have to have a refresh rate of 30hz and not 60.
I was able to make static images with J5 for my layouts in mamewah. The window that I'm using is too small as the font is hard to read, so I have to do a little photoshop to get it going.
I copied my mame layout into the other emulators config files in mamewah so the screen wouldn't go batty and I think that it will look great once I get each layout customized to each emulator.
That's all for now, I have to mow the yard in about six hours. :banghead:
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41. 1000 gig of HD to handle all the memory - IN HAND!!! $350
What in the world does HD space have to do with memory? Maybe instead of building cabinets you should read "Computers for dummies (ie: Ohio State fans)"
:laugh2:
John
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This entire thread and you pick that out? Why don't you figure out how to center my z26 window on a resolution of 640x432? That would help me out tons.
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Yeah, I saw that post. I too have had many problems getting Z26 (all versions) to properly read the CLI file. Whatever video changes I made just weren't used when I would launch the emu. However, It works for me now but I am not sure why or what fixed the problem.
Sorry,
John
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No pictures of the cabinet running Punch-Out or Super-Punch-Out? I only skimmed the thread for now (will read it in more detail later) so maybe there were some and I missed them.
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I'm not running dual monitor mame yet. I'm waiting on .107 and to see if powermame is going to advance with it.
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With summer here and waiting on further software updates, I'm in a holding pattern. I have played a few million games of Galaga and Mrs. Pacman in the meantime. Not to worry, there should be much more to come. :cheers:
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Zakkk just notified me that I've been awarded a Mamey. How cool is that? When I started this project, I wanted it to be one for the ages, and I'm honored to see that even with the "doofey" sport theme, guys in the community still like it. Thanks fellas! :cheers:
http://www.mameworld.net/massive/NEWMAMEY/cabinet.htm (http://www.mameworld.net/massive/NEWMAMEY/cabinet.htm)
Also, Retro James notified me of the cabinets newest news article:
http://retroblast.com/newsitem.php?cid=1852 (http://retroblast.com/newsitem.php?cid=1852)
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Congratulations! Well deserved, too... that's a truly fantastic machine you've made.
(half cursing you because now I want to make my future cab a dual display)
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Thanks Mike! With the work that HowardC is doing, I feel that this dual display will be greatly utilized.
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What Mike said. Dual monitors rock!
(Someday, I'll get a Mamey!) :)
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Congratulations!!! :cheers:
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If I spent close to 3 grand on a cab and didnt win a mamey Id be pissed so congrats man looks great :cheers:
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Congrats man, you definitely deserve it. :cheers:
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Congratulations man. Great cab!
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I cant really see the need for two monitors. But hopefully someday it will be useful. personally, eye just cant handle two monitors at the same time.
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Fred?
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Wow this project is SICK!!! Congrats on the Mamey!
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So uh... where's the full size pic of your new avatar, mccoy? :angel:
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Hey!!! Congrats on the MAMEY!!! :cheers:
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Christ McCoy, this dropped off to page 2. I had to save ya. You really should quit being so lazy. How am I ever supposed to finish (start) my cab if you don't finish your's so I can copy.
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The problem is that it's summer. It's just too dang nice to be working on it right now. :cheers:
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:cheers:
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I just started working on my little 360 stick project, and it has really made me appreciate how completely awesome your cab is. Not that I ever thought it wasn't, but all the attention to detail and work that you put into this thing is extraordinary. Congrats on the mamey, and keep us updated on your progress.
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Will do. Thanks fellas! :applaud:
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Hey mccoy,
Still loving your cab (hopefully will be an inspiration to me when I finally get round to building mine...)
you mentioned you needed to update your lcd files for your betabrite. Seeing as yours is one of the best examples of a betabrite in use, I thought I'd let you know I've updated the lcdgen program to add more betabrite options... although this may depend on what your sign is capable of.
Anyway, its here if you want: http://www.silverfoxy.f2s.com/LCDGen.html (http://www.silverfoxy.f2s.com/LCDGen.html)
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Thanks a ton Silver! I appreciate you making that program. I bought that betabright before that even existed. I kinda lucked out I guess. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
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Hey no worries - glad to see it being put to good use.
I've had my eye out for a 2nd hand betabrite for ages, but no joy so far....
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Hey no worries - glad to see it being put to good use.
I've had my eye out for a 2nd hand betabrite for ages, but no joy so far....
Not second hand, but definitely a good price....
http://cgi.ebay.com/programmable-led-sign-betabrite-brand-new-with-software_W0QQitemZ320017630896QQihZ011QQcategoryZ294QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/programmable-led-sign-betabrite-brand-new-with-software_W0QQitemZ320017630896QQihZ011QQcategoryZ294QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
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It's halftime of the biggest game of the year, and I have just enough time for some Galaga! :cheers: Go Bucks!
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Go Buckeyes. :cheers:
Only because I am from Arkansas, and therefore must hate Texas.
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I just received the second lcd topgun from crashwg. I've been completely slammed with school this quarter, so everything is on standby for the moment. I also received my tokens from Santoro. They look sweet. :cheers:
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I've decided to start working on the pinball plunger sensor. Here is the link to what I plan on making for it:
http://www.johnsretroarcade.com/hardware_pinball.asp (http://www.johnsretroarcade.com/hardware_pinball.asp)
I love it.
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I'm slowly getting back into the swing of things. I finished wiring the rest of the lights for my buttons from Whammoed(two lightmite setups that I had to solder). I also made a new light for my trackball. I used a 2.4w 20mA red led that was 5000mcd's. I used a 10 ohm resister in line just to be safe the 5 watts wouldn't blow it. I soldered them all to a board and put a post on it to hook up the + and -. I am very happy with the brightness. I had used 12v on my old cabinet, and I had not yet updated the to the 5v needed for the ledwiz. I have been doing some simple soldering, and it's not so bad. The internets is your friend! :applaud:
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Okay, while I had a burr in my butt, I decided to put the marquee glass in behind the plexi along with the new sign from mamemarquees.com. I also snugged up the volume control and permanently mounted the volume knob. I also mounted the cupholders(which was very exciting). I'm now working on getting atomicfe and mala running. I want to try both out to see which has better implementation with the ledwiz and the betabright.
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I can't speak to its ability to handle the lighting, but I found Mala very easy to set-up.
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Thanks for the heads up! I started on mala tonight and was able to get it running. I haven't looked into the other features, but I was glad I was able to get it up and running.
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Here are some quick pics of the cabinet, the trackball light, and the volume control.
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Is there any interest on how I'm going to wire up the lights on the coindoor and how I am going to wire it up to work? I will make a photojournal of what I do, just wanted to see if there was anything specific you guys would like to see. :dunno
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Well since you asked, I'm planning to hook up a coinslot mech. I don't have a clue yet how to really make it work. I mean, how should it be wired up to the KeyWiz or I-PAC (I have a KeyWiz ECO2 ;D) that when you insert a coin a credit is added in a game?
Some text and pictures (especially pictures!) would be great! Thanks in advance. :applaud:
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Is there any interest on how I'm going to wire up the lights on the coindoor and how I am going to wire it up to work? I will make a photojournal of what I do, just wanted to see if there was anything specific you guys would like to see. :dunno
Specifically? everything
But are you planning some unconventional method or something for your coin door lights?
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I'm going to be hooking the lights up through the ledwiz and the coin mechs through the keywizmax. I am putting terminal posts just by the door and just below the top of the cp, that way if it ever needs to come apart, all I have to do is unscrew a couple screws. I am planning on moving back the computer inside the cabinet and if I do that I may need to take off the cp. I want to make it as easy as possible for my kids to move when I die in 80 years also. ;D
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Here is the AHK for making the exit key 2 seconds:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=45340.msg431082#msg431082 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=45340.msg431082#msg431082)
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Okay, I finally got the 2 second delay AHK set up so that there are no accidental exits during those key games! It is freaking great! :cheers:
Whew, now that the excitement is over, here is how I did it. I first downloaded the Auto Hot Key program from www.autohotkey.com (http://www.autohotkey.com). I then copied and pasted this text into a blank text document:
;HoldEscape:
toggletimer = 0
esckill = 1
SetKeyDelay, 10, 20
$esc::
if toggletimer = 0
SetTimer, resettimer, 1000
toggletimer++
if toggletimer > 3
goto, toggleesckill
if esckill = 1
{
tt=0 ; set time to 0
loop,100
{
GetKeyState, s , esc, p
if s=U
Break
tt+=25
sleep 25
}
if tt>=2000 ; if key pressed for 2 or more sec
{
send, {esc}
toggletimer = 0
sleep 1200
}
}
else
{
send, {esc}
}
return
resettimer:
toggletimer = 0
return
toggleesckill:
soundplay, *48
toggletimer = 0
esckill *= -1
sleep 500
return
After that was done, I right clicked on the document, selected properties, and chose to have AutoHotKey open the file from the program files folder. I then copied the document, and put a copy in my startup folder. Now it works like a champ! :applaud: I have attached said .ahk file. Just delete the .txt after downloading it.
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I bought the motion sensor today from radioshack and the led's for the coindoor. I'll report back later with updates.
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I just wanted to add that I took care of a necessary evil today. I bought a new 500W power supply from Fry's electronics. I knew that when I installed the computer into the cabinet, it was too far towards the back. So tonight, since I new I would have it apart anyways, I took the board out that had the entire computer mounted to it and made the necessary adjustments. I also added a fan for the harddrives to keep them cool. It was a well spent two/three hour adventure. The only problem now is that it is 5am! :banghead:
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A bump for the biggest game of the century. :cheers:
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A bump for the biggest game of the century. :cheers:
:cheers: yep.... that a big great looking cab ...
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so how did you fix the problem you were having with the attract mode in powermame?
I'm having the same problem.
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I never did. Mike fell off the face of the Earth.
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I noticed that :cry:
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Here is the installation of the coindoor wiring. First I switched out the quarter coin receptors for the token ones. Here is a pic of them installed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60885;image)
Next, I added a screw terminal so that if I ever need to take the coindoor off for any reason or need to do any rewiring, I have an easy access point.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60887;image)
Here is a pic of the ground wire ran to the terminal. I added the wire holder to help keep things organized.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60889;image)
I made a bunch of identical wires then soldered them together. It worked quite well for the application.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60891;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60893;image)
Here is a pic of all the power wires and ground wire ran to the screw terminal. I also direct soldered the wires to the micro switches instead of quick disconnects.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60895;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60897;image)
Just another pic of the wires before I soldered them. For the noobs of the world.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60899;image)
I numbered the screw terminal for later access.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60901;image)
When connecting the lower screw terminal to the one in the control panel, I made my grouping of wires in advance. This worked out very well and I highly recommend it to keep the wires looking nice.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60903;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60905;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60907;image)
Here is the screw terminal in the control panel. I wanted to make it so that if I ever need to take the cp off, it won't be a huge headache.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60909;image)
Here is where I tied it into the keywiz. I then went into the keywiz software and told it where they are.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60911;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=60913;image)
I didn't take pictures of the coindoor lighting hook up, but it was just as simple as the microswitches. I have the lights routed to the ledwiz for powermame use.
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I changed my bootscreen thanks to the tutorial in the wiki using bootskin_free. Thanks MYX!!! I just googled "bootskin" and it was like the fifth option down. I followed the directions in the wiki to a tee using photoshop cs and bam!, there it is. I also used some of the other regedit tweaks to eliminate popup windows among other things. I also changed it so there is no longer a log on screen. Here is the bootskin I used. It is OSU's legendary coach Hayes.
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Man...These big 4 player panels make me want to build one! I could make swappables for Timbercade but man that would be some BIG$$.
Coach Woody F-in Hayes looks like the type of guy that would just as soon kick ur ass as look at you.
Thats my kind of coach!
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Varsity Side Art is done brother!!
Picture gallery etc...
http://nicecarvings.com/html/mccoy.html
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:notworthy: that is great what a talent :cheers:
email sent ;)
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I love the weight of these things! As compared to what came on the originals, these are very solid. I also wanted to mention that now the damn spinner spins for-freaking-ever! So, if you had been considering upgrading, I give this product my full endorsement! Well worth the price of admission. :cheers:
Here is the comparison of the old and the new. I'm not sure how much the new ones weigh, but I would say they are three times heavier than the old!!!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=63458;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=63464;image)
Here is the new knobs installed. Both upclose and from a distance for your viewing pleasure. ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=63460;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=63462;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=63454;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=63456;image)
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The pics are for Timoe (Keepin' an eye out for ya' ;) ) :
Here is a pic of the previews playing on the t.v. with a couple different emulators through mamewah:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=50479;image)
Which software are you using to handle the dual displays? I've taken a look at a couple different front-ends (Mamewah and Mala), but I don't see how either one of them natively supports the dual displays. Are you just statically illustrating how one display can be used for previews while the other one displays the front-end, or have you gotten your hands on some software that does this automatically?
Keep up the great work.
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I have an ATI control panel that has an option to play movies full screen, so it takes that preview and since mamewah has control of the primary, it is only seen on the secondary monitor. I am contemplating moving to either Mala or Atomic FE and upgrade my mame version to one of the dual monitor versions. I am sticking with Powermame for now, as I am wondering if Minwah's new girl and his music is keeping him from adding the light support in mamewah. I just really like that and switching FE's just seems sacreligious or something.
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I used Mamewah on my first cab but went with Mala on the second. I found Mala to be much easier to configure and it has some nice features Mamewah is lacking. I felt a little guilty also not going with Mamewah. Thanks Minwah, for developing a great app. Its not easy supporting freeware software and having a life at the same time. But bragging rights only go so far. If he comes up with a significant upgrade, I'm all over it. In the mean time, Mala works best for me. For what its worth...
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Varsity Side Art is done brother!!
Picture gallery etc...
http://nicecarvings.com/html/mccoy.html
She looks like that and she carves cool arcade stuff? Is SHE for sale?!? Wowsers! :applaud:
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Here it is! Thank you so much DK and Melissa! You guys rock!!!! I received them within two weeks of ordering. That's freaking amazing and the quality is exceptional. I would not blink an eye when considering ordering again!!! :notworthy: :applaud: :notworthy: :applaud: :notworthy: :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=64271;image)
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:cheers: tha is cool...i also just got my pac-man today ;D love it ...
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:cheers: tha is cool...i also just got my pac-man today ;D love it ...
Yeah Fred Arcade Fever made it baby!! :cheers:
Here it is! Thank you so much DK and Melissa! You guys rock!!!! I received them within two weeks of ordering. That's freaking amazing and the quality is exceptional. I would not blink an eye when considering ordering again!!!
Thanks for the kind words! Once again though...you ROCK! Your creativity on this stuff is beyond comprehension! :dizzy: seriously man!
She looks like that and she carves cool arcade stuff? Is SHE for sale?!? Wowsers! :applaud:
Zakk- How much you got? (http://gwally.com/avatars/photos/smoking_baby1.gif)
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She looks like that and she carves cool arcade stuff? Is SHE for sale?!? Wowsers! :applaud:
Zakk- How much you got? (http://gwally.com/avatars/photos/smoking_baby1.gif)
Dude, I'm a REALTOR! Sky's the limit! 8)
Seriously, skilled, patient and beautiful...she's GOT to have a downside...like she wants her mother to live with her forever? Or you wake up and find her fiddling with a carving knife and just....staring at you? C'mon, gimme something here! ;D
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Zakk-
I'm the type of dude that laughs at his own retarded jokes. You don't even have a clue how proud I was for putting that one up last night. (thanks for the prop mccoy). I made Melissa read it. She liked it. Then we went to the store and I was thinking about it the whole time chuckling out loud as I stumbled around the grocery store bumping into people and things. Absolutely ridiculous I know. You would think that I was a crack baby or something, but I'm not. However mental instability does run in the family.
As far as Melissa's flaws, sorry man...She is perfect. Meeting her single handedly saved my pathetic life and I still try to figure out why she followed me of all the people in this world. Yea, so you guys can actually blame her solely for my exsistance. There is your flaw.
I signed her up on her own byoac account. I'm gonna try to make her write her 1st post soon but I tell ya the women don't like to talk. Work, work, work. She is down in the garage NOW! Sat night 7:47 pm. Damn cold down there too.
:cheers:
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Coach Woody F-in Hayes looks like the type of guy that would just as soon kick ur ass as look at you.
Thats my kind of coach!
Ben, When I made this post dude I had no idea. I caught part of the W Hayes documentary at my dads house yesterday. I can't believe it man...I guess I totally had this dude pegged though from one quick glimpse of him huh?
Seriously though I feel bad man! I hope that I didn't offend you or anyone with the quoted comment that I made above. I seriously believe that is one sad story. How it ended man. Damn that just isn't fair. One outburst and the Legacy was over just like that. Can you imagine the stress one must endure in such a passionate coach's shoes. I barely caught a glimpse...they kept showing it but it looked like he clocked him good and the ref. probably barely had a scratch though really. ehh...This 'life' is a fragile thing man...The Coach Hayes story is an example for all of us. Seriously man, we should NEVER get complacent, no matter what your social 'status' or career 'status' might be in life. Never take the good things and especially the GREAT things in life for granted. Enjoy the great things that may be present in your life cause in a second it can be swept from you like the flick of a switch.
CHEERS TO...
Coach Woody Mutha F-in Hayes..."The Varsity Club" and THE BUCKS :cheers:
The Gators are about to be SKINNED by the BUCKS!!
EDIT: Gosh sorry going over board on this post above, I feel dumb. All corny and stuffs :dunno
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No problems DK! Woody was near his end anyways when he punched that Clemson kid. I like Joe Pa, but he looks terrible hanging around like he has. If you like football, it's easy to become an OSU fan. The coach is very classy, and they are perennial winners, so rooting for them is not so hard. I PM'd you about some other stuff.
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woot pregame.
Good luck mccoy, and the rest of OSU.
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This is what it's all about. Right freaking now! :cheers:
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There eating up the OS zone defense bro...
I got faith tho
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It hurts not having Ted Ginn Jr. on the field.
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I don't think it is to early to start the battle cry! :hissy:
Well it looks like anyone else around here could give a rats ass about the game. For what it's worth, I'm feeling your pain!
Course it ain't over just yet...
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It's over now. :laugh2:
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What's that Romo? I mean Mark?
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What's that Romo? I mean Mark?
Ouch.
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Chomp Chomp!
John
PS .... HD shipped yesterday!
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Thank you sir. :cheers: Shipment received.
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Mccoy, so when do we get to see the side art on the game???? i personally cant wait.
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I think he needs you to make some gators sideart instead.... :laugh2:
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I think he needs you to make some gators sideart instead.... :laugh2:
omg...that is just mean.
Wait, guys I think I hear something tic............................
:timebomb:
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That Zakk is just mean.
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Stupid realtors. :banghead:
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You going to get some basketball sideart done now too? Oh wait.....sorry.... ;D
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I'm an OSU student now, and let us never speak of the championship game again. It hurts to think about it.
Anywho, excellent job on your OSU themed cab, and those wooden Brutus figures look awesome! What a great idea -props to the artist :laugh:
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Coach Woody F-in Hayes looks like the type of guy that would just as soon kick ur ass as look at you.
Thats my kind of coach!
Ben, When I made this post dude I had no idea. I caught part of the W Hayes documentary at my dads house yesterday. I can't believe it man...I guess I totally had this dude pegged though from one quick glimpse of him huh?
I figured you didn't know the history, but that made the post humorous in an ironic way.
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Coach Woody F-in Hayes looks like the type of guy that would just as soon kick ur ass as look at you.
Thats my kind of coach!
Ben, When I made this post dude I had no idea. I caught part of the W Hayes documentary at my dads house yesterday. I can't believe it man...I guess I totally had this dude pegged though from one quick glimpse of him huh?
I figured you didn't know the history, but that made the post humorous in an ironic way.
It was so weird when mccoy posted that pic of Woody Hayes. I had no idea of the history then I made that statement on a whim and just trying to be tough & funny myself. The truth is we can all look tough or try to look tough at times. Some of you know what I'm talking about anyway.
Second thought, it isn't that kind of attitude or style that would make for the kind of legendary coach that Hayes was remembered for. Truth is he just looks plain passionate. He was at the end of his rope and it had to end somehow...I love these kinds of iron man stories. It is kinda different but in way these are the guys that I respect not necessarily for winning but how they played the game. You can actually tell by looking to him that he loved what he did and he did it well and gave it EVERYTHING HE HAD!!
In a way, the shear dedication to Hayes and OSU by Mccoy here on "The Varsity Club" is just as legendary here and now for us, as Hayes was to his time in Ohio State. I'm very honored to be the smallest part of the 'TVC' project and the rest of byoac for that matter. We are all family here and mccoy is one of our many leaders. Thanks for making our time here so much better by your hard work & dedication to our hobby. All joking aside and effin manly crap and joking that happens here all the time... I would just like to say 1 more time...NEVER STOP!! My WHOLE family is seriously PROUD to be your friend and tiniest part of your project
This post is for you bro!! :cheers:
(http://nicecarvings.com/assets/images/autogen/a_The_Varsity_Club.gif)
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Jebus. Thanks man. Note to everyone: That is how you reply in an announcement thread! Seriously, thanks again for the nice comments and the artwork. It is really outstanding. :applaud:
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I did get the coindoors working properly and cleaned up the wiring tonight. Now both the lighting and the tokens work properly. Very exciting to see the keyboard disappear. :applaud:
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Just a tiny update. I've been having issues with the component resolution on quite a few emulators. I've decided that since I have a modded xbox to handle all the old school consoles, I'm going to make this strictly a mame machine. As more updates come along, I will keep you updated.
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:applaud:
I think McCoy should put some University of Michigan logos on the side. :cheers: :cheers: Go Blue!!!!
Spocktwin
ps (looking forward to another great Big Ten Season) I hear you folks are not going to get the Big Ten channel in time. My cousins in Columbus are raising the roof. Fortunately the town I live in owns the cable service and has cut a deal to get the channel. You are welcome here for those out of town games
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I may take you up on that.
Fortunately the town I live in owns the cable service and has cut a deal to get the channel. You are welcome here for those out of town games
I just mapquested TimeWarner, MI and nothing came up?. :dunno
:) Go Bucks!
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Timewarner sent out an email explaining their stance on the issue. The Big Ten Network wants to charge the Columbus market $1.10 a month to get the channel. Other markets only pay a fraction of that. TW says it is unfair their customers. I agree, but, let me decide if I want to pay it or not. I will gladly pay it to see my Buckeyes, even if it is only 2-3 games per year.
Go Bucks! :cheers:
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yeah, that is what my cousins are telling me, they want the chance to choose for themselves. The town I live in owns the cable service in town and operates it like any other utility. TW tried to sue them for unfair competition and lost. We get about 90 channels including Disney and in September the Big Ten channel for about 24.00 bucks a month. I get the internet service and that runs the bill to about 50.00 a month. I will take small town Ohio living any day. But in all seriousness I have cold beer in the fridge and the wife usually takes the kids to her mothers on Saturday afternoon, stop by and watch the game. Hell I even let my OSU fan brother in law in the house ;D ;D
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It's true, I've made the switch to MALA. Now to start checking out those plugins. I will say, I've never seen a front end load so easy. It even set itself to the proper resolution 640x432! :cheers: Also, here is some pics of the side art installed as well as some of the other carvings finally on the wall. :cheers:
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awesome - I've been using Mala since it came out. It's good stuff.
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awesome - I've been using Mala since it came out. It's good stuff.
I think so too! :cheers:
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I have been quite pleased so far. If I could get my video driver figured out, I'd get Mala completely ready. :banghead:
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The pictures are awesome!! I can't believe you fit all that on one wall. It looks cool! Brutus seem smaller then I remember him, I guess your cab must be bigger then I thought it was. Thanks for posting the pics, I love seeing my art in different game rooms! ;D
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Just bumping the thread in honor of "The Game". Here's hoping for another good one! :cheers:
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Just bumping the thread in honor of "The Game". Here's hoping for another good one! :cheers:
Unlike last week, right?
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I was pleased with Wisconsin. Oh, you mean that other game?! :cry:
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:woot
11/17/07 OSU 14 Wichigan 3
:cheers:
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:applaud: :woot :applaud:
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We're in baby! Been in ever since I built the cabinet. Coincidence? Maybe?! :cheers:
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:cheers:
Go Bucks!
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First of all, what an AWESOME friggin' cab!!!! You have waaaaay outdone yourself here.
This question might already be answered in the forum, but I couldn't find it. I have the Logitech Z2300 speaker system, as well, and if I get it anywhere close to my monitor is freaks everything out (since it's not magnetically shielded... go figure). How did you deal with this issue?
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I'm not sure I understand your question. You're saying the t.v. is getting interference from the speakers? I've not had that happen, but I am continually blowing the fuse inside the sub for some reason. I need to check my wiring at the volume control, as I bet I've grounded something. Thanks for the compliments by the way! I really appreciate it! :cheers:
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Today is the big day! Let's hope we have a better night then last year. For some strange reason I think we will. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Today is the big day! Let's hope we have a better night then last year. For some strange reason I think we will.
Well, it would be hard to have a worse one. ;)
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Today is the big day! Let's hope we have a better night then last year. For some strange reason I think we will.
Well, it would be hard to have a worse one. ;)
Try having the season that the Hawkeyes had. :badmood: 15 players had various run ins with the law from under age drinking to credit card fraud. This was one season I would like to forget. Still it is good to see the Big 10 in the championship game. Go OSU!!!
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Another rough first half.
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Beginning of the 4th. ...Momentum shift!
let's go BUCKS!! :cheers:
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Another rough first half.
Boy, there's an understatement.
John
PS ..... Imagine, an Irish fan busting someones nutts! :laugh2:
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After visiting Mountain's house today and checking out his awesome cabinet, I was inspired to solve my video card issues. Well, he suggested a system restore. I checked into it and I didn't think it would work as it only let me go back to August, but I'll be damned if it's not running like a top! :cheers: I have no clue what happened or when it happened, but I was finally playing Galaga again with component and I'm stoked. So, thanks Mountain! Such a simple fix. :dizzy:
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Wow, that's awesome! Glad to see it working again. :cheers:
So...when do I get to come over and see it?
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Wow, that's awesome! Glad to see it's working again. :cheers:
So...when do I get to come over and see it?
oops, this was my attempt to edit the above post. I hit quote instead of modify.
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I had a request for measurements, so I've made up some google sketchup pics. :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=104500;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=104502;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=104506;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50889.0;attach=104504;image)
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Go Bucks! Good first quarter! :cheers:
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I grew up on the OSU campus and this is awesome to see. Your cabinet is literally a work of art. Sorry about the game >< Did someone from Texas sabotage your cab?
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Sorry about the game
Damnit!.. That McCoy and his 16 second left in the game TD throws. :angry:
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Well, the end of the original Varsity Club is here. I sold the gpwiz maxes to another member today. It made me very sad to see them come out. What made me even sadder was to see how fast they came out compared to how long it took to put them in! :banghead:
And now, the rest of the story. I am turning the Varsity Club into a pedestal. I have a student who is building a machine and I have decided to give him the telivision. I have a 42" plasma in my basement and I feel that the arcade is better suited for that. So I will keep this thread updated as progress evolves. I'm a little upset, but at the same time I'm relived that the conversion has finally started. I have plenty of other cabinets, like the Ms Pacman shell I bought off Mountain and some others that I can revert back to if I really want a stand up cabinet. :'(
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I plan on having this baby for a long time.
It's a sad day today :(
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Your cab was a work of art. I am sure your change over will also be great. I look forward to seeing how you construct your new pedestal.
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I finally decided to get started back up on the Varsity Club. I installed the Ultimarc joysticks in tonight. I'm also planning on switching back to the Ipac4, so the wiring will start once again. :banghead: Since I had 49 ways on there before, I will have a good reason to cut all of the wire ties, that doesn't mean I'm looking forward to it! :cheers: Here are a couple pics of the underside mess I get to work with and the new joys in place.
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Many, many updates to come. Complete rewiring is finished, computer mounted in pedestal, back panel cnc'd out, new components added, and everything is up and running. Pics are to come sometime in the near future! :cheers:
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Many, many updates to come. Complete rewiring is finished, computer mounted in pedestal, back panel cnc'd out, new components added, and everything is up and running. Pics are to come sometime in the near future! :cheers:
I'd like to see them. Better late than never.