Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Timoe on March 01, 2006, 10:45:44 am
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I am running out of stuff to build so I figured I should make something with some scrap pieces I have lying around. My wife recently bought me a dovetail jig and that gave me the idea of doing a wood grain control panel with solid wood "through-dovetail" joints for the box.
I started out this way but ran into problems when it came to all the angles involved. I want the top to be slanted. So I've settled on plywood and a more simple joint. I've got some extra plexi that I want to use on the bottom so you can see all the wiring and guts when I'm done.
The plan is to have no mechanical fasteners holding the box together. I'm going to use rabbet and dado joints for the sides of the box and the plexi will slide freely in a dado at the bottom of each side.
I've got some red stain left over from a previous project so the color scheme for this one will be red (wood) and black (controls). I plan on using LOTS of coats of poly over the top to give it a sturdy smooth finish.
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I've always been a fan of the Pelican Real Arcade joysticks. I really like the size and the shape of the top. It
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I cut the pieces for the control panel box out of 1/2" birch plywood. The top is cut out of 3/4" red oak plywood. I like the grain on the birch much better and now I'm thinking about re-cutting a top.
Here are the box pieces cut to size. The sides are 2 3/4" at the front building up to 3 3/4" at the back. The front and back pieces have a 7 degree angle cut into them that matches the sides perfectly.
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Controls:
(2) Happ Competition joysticks – black
(1) Oscar Model 3 spinner – black top
(1) Keywiz Encoder
(1) Optiwiz for the spinner
(6) Happ regular buttons for 1up control – black
(4) Happ regular buttons for admin – black
Black ¾” smooth t-molding
I figure its going to be rough to fit all this stuff on the panel. I’m not really sure how I’m going to do it yet and I’m certainly up for suggestions. I took tape to the top of the panel to draw the outlines of the box so I can start planning the layout.
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I love how people do their control panel layouts on these crazy programs like autocad or some 3d rendering software. Seems like a smart way to do it.
Heres how I do it. :P
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I love how people do their control panel layouts on these HUGE programs like autocad or some 3d rendering software. Seems like a smart way to do it.
Heres how I do it. :P
That's not fair. you're using them verticals as guidelines, so it's actually called cheating. ;)
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I tried out a little sample of the stain on the underside of the control panel top.
I definitely like the grain better on the birch. Looks lke I'll be re-routing a new top this weekend.
Incidentally, I plan on making a template or jig for routing the underside of the control panel for joysticks. I've done this enough times and I'll probably be doing it alot more. It would be nice to get a tight recess that is the exact size of the Happ & Wico bases.
Here's a link for the template http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51235.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51235.0)
I'll be sure and post pics of how I do this as I'm sure someone will find it usefull.
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I've cut the rabbets and dadoes for the box sides. The box actually holds together pretty well with the plexi in the bottom without any glue.
Here's a pic showing all the bottom pieces.
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here I labeled it. I've put the stain and poly on the inside faces. Its coming out nice. I will post pictures later today.
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Here is the insides of the box stained.
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Here is the top with one coat of stain/poly combo. I will apply another coat of this stuff called Minwax Polyshades to even out the color on the edges. Then It will be 2-5 coats of regular poly.
Those little dimples you can see are my reference marks for where my controls will be. I'm thinking it will be easier to do a smooth finish coat on the top before I do my drilling.
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Here's the glue up. You can see the joints in these photos. I'm really glad everything got aligned alright. Its all nice and flush. I'll still have some minimal sanding before I coat the outsides though.
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Heres the spinner top choices. (from what I have on hand)
I'm thinking since all my controls will be black that the black MAME Oscar top will be the way to go.
The blue O-ring top and the silver one with the knurling are from slikstik. The other three simple silvers are jog-dials from a 1970's X-ray machine.
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I swear to god, my spinner top is going to look like a ship's wheel.
That way I can yell nautical lingo at myself when in dire straights.
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After this I'm gonna be a Pelican Master. This will be my third!
This is the one I use for my xbox.
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I stained the outside of the box with one coat and put a second coat on the top.
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Did some drillin'
check out the Joystick Jig thread for more info...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51235.0
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The other three simple silvers are jog-dials from a 1970's X-ray machine.
...What, exactly, are you building again?
Anyway, your X-ray machine is looking real nice. I love the red woodgrain.
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Alright, I'm getting there. I've got some other projects coming up so I have to get this guy squared away.
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A big fat THANK YOU to Doc Thirst for the black T-molding
Thank you very much for that. It has worked out great!
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Here's an update. I installed the Optiwiz and Keywiz. The wiring shown below is temporary. I'd never used a Keywiz before and wanted to test the whole IDE thing.
Sure enough, everything worked great the first time
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Okay, I cleaned up the wiring. Wow what a job that was.
I thought I was gettin high off the solder fumes. It was fun making the wiring harness though. I think it came out well.
Also, I added a clasp at the top middle of the control panel so that if this thing gets picked up by the front it doesnt flap open or anything.
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I got this BYOAC thing from Conseit68 a long time ago. Then I realized I had no idea what I would do with it. ::)
Even in this case it didnt work. I ended up having to cut another piece of plexi and sandwiching it between the pieces so that it was both visible on the bottom and protected at the same time.
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And another finished shot
Note: thank you to JoyMonkey for the button labels. I still have some left over!
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That's really sweet. Good job!
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Super classy, very nice! The t-molding looks a lot better with the finished wood than I would have imagined!
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Great design and finish!
Wood looks so much better than mdf...
I'm considering trying something like the following pic...
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I like the shape of that one too. Do you think you could make me a template out of MDF or plywood? If so let me know the cost+shipping. It would be really appreciated.
NW
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Pay me for shipping and you got a deal. PM me your address.
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The finished CP looks real good. I'm considering doing something similar with the $5 Jakks game I just picked up.
There is one thing I don't get though. Did you end up using dovetails anywhere, like you mentioned? It looks like you used tongue and groove throughout. Nevermind, I just saw the part where you said you abandoned that idea.
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I cut the pieces for the box with the through dovetails. I still have the pieces so I might make a square control panel with them someday.
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Pay me for shipping and you got a deal. PM me your address.
PM sent! You the man!