Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: MYX on February 18, 2006, 11:16:46 am
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This is odd. I would swear that HD and Lowes have had 2 x 4 sheets of 5/8 MDF. I went yesterday to get a sheet for my CP and everyone I asked looked at me like I was crazy. However true this may be, I still need my MDF. Where did you guys find your stuff? I do not feel like routing a 12 x 32 piece of 3/4 in MDF down to 5/8. (But I will if I need to)
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Thats odd, I got mine at Home Depot.
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I had to go to two seperate Home Depots. The first did not have it, but the second did.
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neither hd or menards around me had 5/8 mdf,I used the particle board for my cp top and 3/4 mdf for the rest.After the cp was completely done it's solid.I've got no regrets.I used 2x2 supports at all the joints(glued and screwed).Keep in mind if you try to shave down a 3/4 mdf board,the dust produced is supposed to be nasty,make sure you use a mask.
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In west michigan none of the biggies, Home Depot, Lowes and Menards, carry 5/8. I ordered it at the local lumber yard.
John
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Do you have plans that REQUIRE you to use it for some reason or other, or is it just that you're afraid your measurements are going to be off? Something close to 3/4" is fine. An eigth or thirty-secondth difference isn't worth traveling all over creation. Just change your measurements. You're essentially just making 4-sided boxes. Just select two sides (I'd choose WIDTH rather than DEPTH measurements), cut those to what you need, and subtract the added material. Once you have one width measurement figured out, all the rest of the pieces that were the same size in width, change your dimensions. Take your time, plan your measurements carefully, and if anything, if you're SERIOUSLY worried, cut your pieces a bit larger, test fit everything, and then trim again.
And you guys thought all that math crap with fractions would never make a difference in "the real world" ;)
Anyone having their plans and unable to find your MDF in the size you want, I'm willing to resize your plans for you. I exact a hefty penance for not keeping track of your helmet though ;)
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Do you have plans that REQUIRE you to use it for some reason or other, or is it just that you're afraid your measurements are going to be off? Something close to 3/4" is fine. An eigth or thirty-secondth difference isn't worth traveling all over creation. Just change your measurements. You're essentially just making 4-sided boxes. Just select two sides (I'd choose WIDTH rather than DEPTH measurements), cut those to what you need, and subtract the added material. Once you have one width measurement figured out, all the rest of the pieces that were the same size in width, change your dimensions. Take your time, plan your measurements carefully, and if anything, if you're SERIOUSLY worried, cut your pieces a bit larger, test fit everything, and then trim again.
Umm, he said the 5/8 was just for his CP, which means meant just the CP top since thats what the project arcade book calls for when you add 1/8'' plexiglass on it. If you haven't ordered your t-molding yet you could order about 5 feet of 7/8'' when you order the rest of the molding, it shouldn't cost you much (if any) more. Your other option is to find a lumber yard, I know my local lumber yard has pretty much every type and thickness of wood I could possibly want. Also, since it will be covered with t-molding and plexiglass, you could just get 5/8'' plywood or hardwood.
But its nice of you to offer your help with the math Drew ;D
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Umm, he said the 5/8 was just for his CP, which means meant just the CP top since thats what the project arcade book calls for when you add 1/8'' plexiglass on it.
So the plexiglass isn't necessary (see mamemarquees or emdkay), OR, if you simply MUST have the plexiglass, it STILL doesn't make a difference if you use 3/4" material. The buttons will still fit, the T-molding will still work....I'm STILL failing to see what the problem is. I doubt I'll ever understand it, since it's a non-issue, but I'd still like to hear the theory behind being unable to use anything other than 5/8".
If it's just because "that's what the book says", I'm POSITIVE saint would agree that it's not gospel that you use THAT thickness if you've got access to 3/4".
I'm not certain he's using the book either, since he didn't say that in this post, and I'm not following his progress anywhere else except to answer questions hither and yon.
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I got mine from Lowes.
When I first asked them for 5/8 MDF, the guy had no idea what I was talking about. We took a walk through the section where they keep the stock and I found it.
5/8 was all they had.
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Hey Drew, it is because I wanted to have a plexi top. I have really been trying to have a clean slick finish to this and the plexi has always been a part of the plan. I bought and actually read the book and refer back to it often , and no offence to anyone who has built the project arcade, it is not at all what I wanted. (However the book is a must have. Rumor is that it will sell like beanie babies in about a month or so. :D ). I wanted a laid back vert monitor in a NON pac or galiga style. So after measuring my QIX, I bastardized it as I saw fit. I am having fun making a 100% mod in progress (no firm set or drawn plans. just scribbles here and there). So it is not a mater of not being able to measure or make new measurments, (heck most of my measurments are beyond comprehension up till the point of the nice new saw board ;) ) I just really wanted to have a final plexi that used 3/4 in t-molding (dark blue). I do not want to use partical board. I used it on my last CP and it is no fun to work with. MDF is beautiful to work with. With router in hand it is nearly like sculpting. I am trying to have no sharp edges on my cab (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=48239.0). Though a struggle, as I have never done any "real" wood working, I think (<-- relitive term) I am doing a pretty good job.
Keep in mind if you try to shave down a 3/4 mdf board,the dust produced is supposed to be nasty,make sure you use a mask.
yeah it has been nasty all along, but no regrets so far. I do all the cutting and routing outside. Then I use my echo leaf blower and send a huge cloud down the street. ;D
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Use what you can find :)
If it's just because "that's what the book says", I'm POSITIVE saint would agree that it's not gospel that you use THAT thickness if you've got access to 3/4".
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So the plexiglass isn't necessary (see mamemarquees or emdkay), OR, if you simply MUST have the plexiglass, it STILL doesn't make a difference if you use 3/4" material. The buttons will still fit, the T-molding will still work....I'm STILL failing to see what the problem is. I doubt I'll ever understand it, since it's a non-issue, but I'd still like to hear the theory behind being unable to use anything other than 5/8".
if you use 3/4'' t-molding on 3/4'' wood with 1/8'' plexiglass on it, it will leave an edge, either the wood will be showing or the plexiglass will be showing, neither of which would look very good. As I said in my earlier post you can get 7/8'' t-molding, which would solve your problem, allowing you to use 3/4'' wood and still have it look good. If you feel you must use 5/8'' wood, then, as I said earlier, use 5/8 plywood or hardwood since your HD or Lowes is bound to have some type of wood with 5/8'' thickness. Otherwise you'll have to find a nearby lumber yard, most decent size towns have one.
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if you use 3/4'' t-molding on 3/4'' wood with 1/8'' plexiglass on it, it will leave an edge, either the wood will be showing or the plexiglass will be showing, neither of which would look very good.
So it'd look like an authentic arcade cab, where they slapped on plexi afterwards like we do, is what you're saying.
As I said in my earlier post you can get 7/8'' t-molding, which would solve your problem, allowing you to use 3/4'' wood and still have it look good.
So you're saying it WILL work! Huzzah!
I think my work here will never be done ;)
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why don't you guys use 1/2" MDF? I know most HD and lowes carry it and then just use 1/4" lexan for the top. This would still keep your panel at 3/4" and you won't have to worry about the t-molding not fitting.
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I didn't use 5/8 because "the book said to",I've never even read the book.I used it because I wanted a 3/4 total thickness with a plexi top.Before eveyone starts throwing darts about having or not having plexi,it's a personal preference,and it sounds like that's what myx wants on his cab.I needed the 3/4 overall thickness for the trim I used around the cp to work.I didn't want plain t-moulding,I wanted something that would hold the plexi down a little better than just relying on the buttons.I didn't want trash creeping in under the plexi or the kids lifting the edges and cracking it.Here's a post with a little more detail of what I did.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=46432.msg444429#msg444429
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why don't you guys use 1/2" MDF? I know most HD and lowes carry it and then just use 1/4" lexan for the top. This would still keep your panel at 3/4" and you won't have to worry about the t-molding not fitting.
1/2" is a bit thin... and 1/4" Lexan is twice as expensive as 1/8". My HD has 5/8", 3/4", and 1/2". Guess I'm just lucky!
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I have a piece of MDF that I thought was 5/8" MDF, but I just measured it and it is in fact 1/2" thick. ???
Anyway, you could try using 1/2" MDF with 1/8" lexan, then installing the T-molding flush with the top. You would have some overhang on the bottom of the panel that you could trim with a utility knife or something. I really don't know how good this would work because I have not tried it. You may want to try it on a scap piece of MDF and a short length of T-molding.
Or... you could try layering the 1/8" lexan top, 1/2" MDF panel, and glueing a 1/8" hardboard (masonite) to the bottom of the panel. That sould give you the desired 3/4" total thickness...
Again... I am not sure how well these things would work ??? ...but let us know if you decide to try these suggestions...
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perhaps I wigg use 1/2 in and then smear on 1/8 worth of wood filler. Sand it to a fine finish. top it with a sticker, then plexi, then wrap it in suran wrap, then bubble wrap, and then duct tape (for your protection of course). ;)
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I have a piece of MDF that I thought was 5/8" MDF, but I just measured it and it is in fact 1/2" thick. ???
Anyway, you could try using 1/2" MDF with 1/8" lexan, then installing the T-molding flush with the top. You would have some overhang on the bottom of the panel that you could trim with a utility knife or something. I really don't know how good this would work because I have not tried it. You may want to try it on a scap piece of MDF and a short length of T-molding.
Or... you could try layering the 1/8" lexan top, 1/2" MDF panel, and glueing a 1/8" hardboard (masonite) to the bottom of the panel. That sould give you the desired 3/4" total thickness...
Again... I am not sure how well these things would work ??? ...but let us know if you decide to try these suggestions...
Either suggestion is a good one. The T-molding is really easy to trim flush with a utility knife.
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perhaps I wigg use 1/2 in and then smear on 1/8 worth of wood filler. Sand it to a fine finish. top it with a sticker, then plexi, then wrap it in suran wrap, then bubble wrap, and then duct tape (for your protection of course). Wink
lol :laugh:...while you are at it...you could build a full cab entirely out of wood filler...lol... ;D
Hey I just got back from HD here in Lawrenceville and they have that 5/8" particle board subfloor underlayment stuff, the surface is a bit rougher than MDF...I think there was a thread about that stuff...anyway it looks OK to use for what you are describing if you are gonna put an overlay over the panel under the lexan...it probably won't take paint very well...it is about $10 and some change for a 4'x8' sheet. Just thought you would like to know...good luck... ;)
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did you try lowes
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perhaps I wigg use 1/2 in and then smear on 1/8 worth of wood filler. Sand it to a fine finish. top it with a sticker, then plexi, then wrap it in suran wrap, then bubble wrap, and then duct tape (for your protection of course). Wink
lol :laugh:...while you are at it...you could build a full cab entirely out of wood filler...lol... ;D
Hey I just got back from HD here in Lawrenceville and they have that 5/8" particle board subfloor underlayment stuff, the surface is a bit rougher than MDF...I think there was a thread about that stuff...anyway it looks OK to use for what you are describing if you are gonna put an overlay over the panel under the lexan...it probably won't take paint very well...it is about $10 and some change for a 4'x8' sheet. Just thought you would like to know...good luck... ;)
Lawrenceville Ga?
did you try lowes
Myup. :-\ They guy here acted as there was no such thing.
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You could always just buy some 1/2'' MDF and stick some sort of material that is 1/8'' thick. I don't know if you would be able to route your groove ok with that though. I am in Lawrenceville as well though, right off McKendree Church Rd.! Good to see the locals here HAHA.
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I find it hard to believe that neither Lowes or HD had no type of wood that was 5/8'' thick, you don't have to use MDF, it'll be impossible to tell the difference once the plexiglass and t-molding is on. If neither one actually doesn't have any 5/8'' wood, then ask to talk to the manager and ---smurfette--- slap him. I'd then suggest running since security will be after you.
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i purchased mdf at lowes recently & im sure they had 5/8"
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Lawrenceville Ga?
That's right!!! ...way to represent!!! :D...
I am in Lawrenceville as well though, right off McKendree Church Rd.! Good to see the locals here HAHA.
OMG!!!...you are like right across the street from me...I am on Hearth Place off of L'vile/Swanee Rd...you live close to that BRUSTER'S ice cream place don't you?...
OMG!!! SHOUT OUT to all my BYOAC BRO'S in the Metro Atlanta area from Lawrenceville GA!!! :laugh:
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You could always just buy some 1/2'' MDF and stick some sort of material that is 1/8'' thick. I don't know if you would be able to route your groove ok with that though. I am in Lawrenceville as well though, right off McKendree Church Rd.! Good to see the locals here HAHA.
Yeah I was looing at that option yesterday. They have hard board which is the same stuff that they make peg board out of. It was 1/8 thick. I was thinking that I could put down a solid layer of elmers wood glue and press it. Then use this as the down facing side.
I have been to 3 different HDs and 3 or 4 Lowes with no luck. I will start call other stores tomorrow. Home sick today. :'(
BTW I'm in Snellville. Webb Gin off of Ronald Reagon area.
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That's great. MYX I play hockey at the SGAA right around there, I am around all the time. Art, yep right off that road. Good stuff, we should have a BYOAC party HAH!
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perhaps I wigg use 1/2 in and then smear on 1/8 worth of wood filler. Sand it to a fine finish. top it with a sticker, then plexi, then wrap it in suran wrap, then bubble wrap, and then duct tape (for your protection of course). ;)
That's simply ridiculous. Anyone with half a brain knows you should use bondo instead of wood filler, and the bubble wrap is just overkill for what you're going to use it for. I've also gotten far better results using purple painters tape, but it's not commonly found at uncommon hardware stores ;)
Before eveyone starts throwing darts about having or not having plexi,
Settle down sparky, you're the only one who's brought up anyone "throwing darts" when nothing of the sort has been said that's even close to approaching "throwing darts". Go re-read the thread after a cup of coffee or something - make it decaf ;)
i purchased mdf at lowes recently & im sure they had 5/8"
Just because the sign on the front reads the same doesn't mean that materials inside are going to be the same, or even available. It's why you OFTEN see people saying "At the HD in my area (your area may be different) I found X material". I have 3 HD's within reasonable driving distance of my house. 1 carries NO forstner bits in its store but seemingly every size spade bit known to man, 1 carries all BUT the size required for button holes, all but the size needed in a spade bit, and a hole saw of the proper size, and the last 1 is the ONLY 1 that stocks that particular size forstner bit, albeit in a crappy brand only.
Don't assume all stores carry something because you were able to find it at the store you went to.
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Drew:
I'm building a cabinet that calls for 6/8" thick material, but I'm having a hell of a time finding it. All I can find is 3/4" I even tried metric, but all they had was 19mm thick. I guess I'm screwed.
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Drew:
I'm building a cabinet that calls for 6/8" thick material, but I'm having a hell of a time finding it. All I can find is 3/4" I even tried metric, but all they had was 19mm thick. I guess I'm screwed.
In more ways than you're even aware of! ;)
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Yeah I was looing at that option yesterday. They have hard board which is the same stuff that they make peg board out of. It was 1/8 thick. I was thinking that I could put down a solid layer of elmers wood glue and press it. Then use this as the down facing side.
This sounds like the best plan you've come up with so far. The routing and/or wood puttying would give questionable results for a lot of work.
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This sounds like the best plan you've come up with so far. The routing and/or wood puttying would give questionable results for a lot of work.
Did anyone else hear a giant whooshing sound? ;D
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This sounds like the best plan you've come up with so far. The routing and/or wood puttying would give questionable results for a lot of work.
Did anyone else hear a giant whooshing sound? ;D
I don't think I like you anymore :P :-*
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I don't think I like you anymore :P :-*
So you're one of those "I'm into angry love" kinda guys? ;D
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I don't think I like you anymore :P :-*
So you're one of those "I'm into angry love" kinda guys? ;D
Brokeback Forum?
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I don't think I like you anymore :P :-*
So you're one of those "I'm into angry love" kinda guys? ;D
Brokeback Forum?
Crap that was funny.
The routing and/or wood puttying would give questionable results for a lot of work.
Yeah the wood putty idea was a fake. I had no intention of doing that. Now bondo on the other hand... I am however tempted to route the muther just to see if I could pull it off. The cloud that I send down the street from that one will be immense. The neighbors will love me for sharing my project with them. If it fails then I will happily use the remaining hardboard that I used when I built my sawboard.
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Keep in mind if you try to shave down a 3/4 mdf board,the dust produced is supposed to be nasty,make sure you use a mask.
yeah it has been nasty all along, but no regrets so far. I do all the cutting and routing outside. Then I use my echo leaf blower and send a huge cloud down the street. ;D
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aside from the mess,and it does make a good one,I was refering more to the health aspect's.It's not good.Look up the msds sheets on mdf.
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question: Why can't we be friends, why can't we be friends
answer: Pompus revolving door windbag *YOINKER*
you gotta love a cheezhed that answers his own questions . ;D
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I don't think I like you anymore :P :-*
So you're one of those "I'm into angry love" kinda guys? ;D
Brokeback Forum?
I will forever refer to that movie and all variations of jokes using the name as "Humpback Mountain". The accepted funny response is "Humpback Forum?"
I shall smite you with -fu in the place we dare not say aloud. ;)
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[English Accent] Do your worst! I am not afraid of your smite. [/English Accent]
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[English Accent] Do your worst! I am not afraid of your smite. [/English Accent]
Yeah, but my taint'll make you run screaming like a little girl. TAKE THAT!
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Taint? If itaint... :P
Um yeah, I would run too.