Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: allroy1975 on January 13, 2006, 12:49:21 pm
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Here's what I'm doing. I'm making a litlte 2 player CP for my stained wood cabinet. The CP will be made of a 1/2 inch birch with 3/4 inch iron on birch trip. that should create a "bowl". I'll then fill that bowl with that epoxy stuff that fills then solidifies to be clear and hard like glass. The plan is to get some clean quarters from the 80s and bury them in the CP.
I've got 2 Omni Sticks PRODIGYs that I want to put in this CP. They come with a big old plate on them, but it WILL come off.
I'm making this whole thing to look nice and I don't think the big black mounting plate will enhance the look and with clear coat going on top of it..burying it in something isn't much of an option.. I could basicly take off the mounting plate and route a copy of it in the clear coat when it's dry.
What is the best way to handle this in YOUR opinion.
PS- this is what I'm doing...so please skip the "make it out of wood and don't use the clear coat stuff" "answers" :-*
Allroy
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Could you drill/route a small hole for just the stick through the clear layer, and then mount the stick hardware under the wood?
maybe countersink the mounting plate underneath the panel to get the proper depth, gorilla glue the plate and bolts to the panel, and then use nuts to hold the stick to the plate?
(If I'm being clear enough)
I mean, really it's just a wood CP, with a nice wood grain and quarters overlay, with extra-thick plexi on top of it. How would you treat that?
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That's what I'm thinking, the only problem (if it's a problem at all) is the little switcher doo that lets you choose an 8way or 4way stick.
I'll have to route that out too. I think that sounds like the best option.
Allroy
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Okay, after looking at my stuff and using my brain a little bit I've deceided that this might be tough.
Here's what I was thinking I'd do:
Drill holes, put carriage bolts in to hold the joysticks in place after everything is done and drilled out.
so, I drill holes. Put in the bolts. then start pouring my epoxy "goo". once it's dried I drill. I don't think I'll have to make a HUGE hold, I think I can get the joystick apart so I can make a moderate hole, and feed the stick through the bottom.
I think that the stick might be sunk a little lower than I'd actually like it. It needs to be up as high as possible so the 4/8 way switcher slider can stick up above the goo.
My question:
If I routed out a quarter inch to get the sticks up higher, would the remaining quarter inch plus the quarter inch of epoxy be enough to keep the stick from falling out? any other ideas? Also, what might be the best way to cut the slot for the 4/8 way switcher?
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My question:
If I routed out a quarter inch to get the sticks up higher, would the remaining quarter inch plus the quarter inch of epoxy be enough to keep the stick from falling out? any other ideas? Also, what might be the best way to cut the slot for the 4/8 way switcher?
A quarter inch of birch should hold the stick fine. I used a drill then jig-saw to cut the slots. See my www link for pics of the results.
My only concern would be how the stick hole would look through the epoxy. Do you plan to use dust washers on top?
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My only concern would be how the stick hole would look through the epoxy. Do you plan to use dust washers on top?
Oh man, I remember when you buit that cab, GREAT design. Yeah, yours look SUPERB!
I was thinking about using home made dust washers. It kinda depends on what it looks like once I get the base up as high as I can.
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how handy are you with drills and and a round file? you could make the panel top out of 1.6mm steel. the 4/8 way switch im guessing moves in an arc so you need to drill a hole at each end of the arc and jigsaw it (with steel cutting blade naturally). im thinking of using the omnis myself and i too would like to hide the plate. im thinking of makng my panel from fibreglass though...
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huh?
The top panel will be made of the clear epoxy goo. like a bar top. if I wanted metal on top, I'd just go with the plate that came on the joystick.
Jigsawing is almost definatly how I'll go for the switch. I just hope this epoxy doesn't chip or anything. Any advise on how to cut the stuff safely?
Allroy
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I suspect the epoxy will kind of melt, not chip. I'm not speaking from experience though.
While your working with the epoxy You may want to spread some on a scrap piece of birch and try cutting/drilling that first. Test pieces are always a good idea. while your at it you could experiment with stains under the epoxy.
Sounds like a cool cp. Be sure to post pics of your results.
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While your working with the epoxy You may want to spread some on a scrap piece of birch and try cutting/drilling that first. Test pieces are always a good idea. while your at it you could experiment with stains under the epoxy.
Sounds like a cool cp. Be sure to post pics of your results.
it's more of a Pour. You have to mix it 1:1 and then mix it well, but not whip because that will create bubbles, then pour it into the CP.
I agree I SHOULD work with a sample piece, but I'm so lazy I hate doing things twice. I mean...I'm not Stingray but I'm not super motivated. ;)
Allroy
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Not to be critical, but you're talking about a very difficult process. Making your "bowl" will be difficult. You might want to make the bowl by screwing real wood to the sides of the control panel just temporarily while you work with the epoxy. After it's dry, pry the wood off of the epoxy. When the wood sticks, just break it off and file it away. You'd have to try to polish the epoxy after getting all of the wood off. Then if you'll have an exposed edge of the plywood you can put the laminate on there.
You might also consider still going with Plexi on top. Use a small layer of the epoxy to suspend the coins, and then top it off with 1/8" plexi for a smooth top. You'll hide the imperfections of the epoxy top (unless that's what you're lookign for) and you probably won't be able to tell it's layered.
Next, for the mounting of the joystick take a look at the attached image. I would route the bottom of the control panel so that only 1/16" remains of the top layer of birch. That 1/16 is just to cover the original mounting plate which you would mount to a wood panel that gets screwed to the bottom of the top panel. I'm not explaining it real well, the image is better.
Another alternative is to use 1/2" plywood for the CP. Route out and recess your mounting plate on the CP like you normally would. Then use a birch laminate (I got a two foot by four foot roll at Home Depot for about $25) on top of everything, including the mounting plate. Your joystick mounting plate would be sandwiched between the laminite and the CP. Then top it off however you want. This would probably result in the best looking solution for the bottom. Again, these things are not exactly easy to pull off, and most likely end up in disappointing results. Trust me, I've got a basement full of disappointment ;D. Hope something I said helps, good luck.
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I'd also think through the idea of scrolling and drilling the epoxy. Plan to have the epoxy exactly where you want it. If I was going to tackle this job, I would take a clear plastic bottle (water bottle, 1 liter bottle, 2 liter bottle, or whatever diameter you need) and make a form for the epoxy to go around. Even if it doesn't come out perfect, it will be easier to file it with a round wood file then it will be to drill it and cut it with a jigsaw. That's just my opinion though.
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If I were pouring a cement patio, and I wanted a round hole in the middle for a firepit, I wouldn't pour the whole slab and then try to cut the round hole out of it. I'd put something round, like a 50-gallon drum or something, where I wanted the hole to be before I poured the cement, and then just remove the drum after it cured.
Maybe you could build a form to keep the epoxy out of the space that's going to be the slot for the mode switch. And the joystick handle, too.
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huh?
The top panel will be made of the clear epoxy goo. like a bar top. if I wanted metal on top, I'd just go with the plate that came on the joystick.
Jigsawing is almost definatly how I'll go for the switch. I just hope this epoxy doesn't chip or anything. Any advise on how to cut the stuff safely?
Allroy
hehe. sorry. its obvious now what you wanna do. my only excuse is it was late at night...
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Somehow I missed all these replies in the thread that I've got a notify set up on and I started. ???
Anyway, I deceided this WOULD probably be difficult, so I ended up making a small test CP that will allow me to test with drilling and jigging the stuff. it's a small 6.5" x 8.25" thing. so far I've ironed on the edging stuff and poly'd it. then later I'll scuff it up and start pouring the epoxy. I should have a good idea what that'll look like at some point late saturday night then I think I should be okay to work with it mid day Sunday.
I'll post pics and results then.
At that point I'll make the decision. the plexi sounds like it might be the next best option.
We'll see how this goes though.
Thanks for the suggestions
Allroy
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Curing:
After applying your final coat, the product should be kept in as clean and dust-free an environment as possible. At 80
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Okay, so here's what I got after making the bowl and finding out I DEFINATLY need to use differnt mixing bowls for the 2nd layer....
I beleive that by mixing using the same bowl and everything for some reasy created a LOT of bubbles that aren't really visible in these pictures, but they're there if you look real close. The BIGGEST problems I ran into are:
1. my jig sawed thingy looks like poop in my opinion. I think it will look better when routed from below...I didn't route the underside so cutting through with the jigsaw wasn't easy or very clean. I'll rout that so almost all I have to jig through is the epoxy clear coat stuff and a very thin layer of wood.
2. My swither do-dad is too short to make it up over the epoxy so I need to extend that somehow...wich leads me to my next question.... How can I make that thing longer? in case you don't know what I'm talking about...it's a thing piece of metal that should stick above the CP a little bit and allow you to switch the 4/8 way restrictor plate. I need a metal extender. the thing in the 3rd pic.
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sorry. Hoping this bump can get me some more views....earlier in the day...on a Friday.
One of the things that has always amazed me about the BYOAC community is how wide a variety of smart people there are and no matter WHAT your question...someone will have an answer or idea or SOMETHING for you. I know we won't let me down this time and that's the reason for the bump.
thx
Allroy
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2. If there is room between the dodad and the joystick housing, simply get the right length of aluminum flat bar and attach it to the dodad by drilling a couple holes and using a couple screws/nuts.
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DOH! it's SO simple and obvious....GEEZ! i'm a doofus! I'm thinking about trying to wrap something around that post or all these complicated measures of welding something to the top of it...
Sometimes the most simple solutions escape me....and it's a little embarassing.
thanks
allroy ::)
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I mean...I'm not Stingray but I'm not super motivated. ;)
And to think I came in here with some stellar advice for you. I think I'll just keep it to myself. ;)
-S