Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: weaklink on January 05, 2006, 07:50:56 pm
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Monitor won't power on. No green LED, or blinking LED, it's just...dead. Any ideas? A fuse maybe?
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ok found a fuse but I can't tell if it's blown (it's not see through). Anyone know where to get a T3 15AH 250V fuse??? <crosses fingers>
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You need to get yourself a multimeter first,then check your input voltage(are you in the U.S or europe- 110v for U.S 240v for europe),if you have the correct input voltage then on your mulimeter check your fuse using either ohms or bleep test.The correct fuse value is 3.15amps,you should be able to buy this anywhere,I guess its a 20mm fire proof.By the sounds of things your mains in voltage is missing otherwise your chassis would show some sort of led activity.
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hey thanks for the reply-i have a multimeter and checked the fuse and it checks out ok :-[ I am in the process of looking at a service manual, but I'm a bit squeamish about poking around in there with my probes. I DON"T want to have to ship this beast back.
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Just a thought after reading, does it have a switch or taps for 110/220. A lot more equipment is coming with the option of both, and maybe it is set for the other voltage. I'm also seeing more circuits with thermistor in them to protect at power up if the voltage is wrong or something shorted.
Good Luck
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I downloaded the service manual http://www.betson.com/products/IMP-44-4070-RT . The fuse checks out ok, both with an ohm meter and with voltage at either end. However, as per pg 19 I am not getting 80V DC at D110. Instead I am getting 0. F101 is the fuse which checks out ok, so now I have to check and replace IC103, but for now I have not been able to find it on the schematic, and I'm not sure how to check it once I do find it. Thanks for the great help guys. In regards to the switchable 110/220 I am not sure if something like this exists, but the monitor did function for a brief period of time. I would think if there were some sort of protection like you describe, the monitor would have never functioned at all. BTW I am in the US. I was getting 120v at the input.