Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Mickey Juice on December 30, 2005, 02:49:39 am
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I just moved into a new house and after moving my NBA Jam inside I've
got a problem with it. :(
It initially fired up OK, the only questionable thing was that there
was a wobble in the edges screen, kinda like a degaussing wobble (not that
extreme) and it quitened down and wasn't noticible.
I turned the machine off for a few hours, then when I went to show a
mate I turned it on and nothing ???
The game board is running fine, the LEDs are on and I can hear the
gameplay sounds. "Showtime!!!!" ;)
There is no glow from the back of the tube.. I tested the 2 fuses (6A
and 2.5A) on the chassis board and they seem ok (I dont have a continuity
test on my multimeter, so I just used resistence, and the meter was zeroing
ok, so I assumed there was connection through it).
After leaving it in a repair place for 4 weeks without them even *looking* at it, I got it back from them >:( >:(
I pulled out the monitor chassis last night and had a look.
The only bad solder joint I could find was on the monitor neck board...
It was the (E) pin that connects to the wire harness around the monitor.
I havnt plugged it all back in yet, but would this be part of the problem?
I've been told that it's probably a switch mode power supply problem or a problem in the deflection circuit, someone else mentioned the B side transistor is prolly dead.
I dont have the equipment to test the transistors whilst in the board.
The brand of both the chassis and tube are Eygo.
(http://www.lavingtonpanthersfc.com.au/images/misc/x1a.jpg)
(http://www.lavingtonpanthersfc.com.au/images/misc/x2.jpg)
(http://www.lavingtonpanthersfc.com.au/images/misc/x4.jpg)
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Since you don't have the tools to test the components, maybe you just want to purchase a new chassis from Alva Amusements, the 25" std res Wei-Ya chassis and forget about the repair? If you want to repair it, you should inspect the chassis for bad/cold solder joints. I believe it's just probably a bad capacitor, most likely the one right next to the big ceramic resistor/vertical ic, but also check the 2 transistors mounted.
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Looks like it's due for a capkit too.
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Thanks,
I'll replace all the caps and go from there.
Is it possible to check the trannies with a DMM, while still in the board??
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Thanks,
I'll replace all the caps and go from there.
Is it possible to check the trannies with a DMM, while still in the board??
Yes.
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So the method of using the diode test should be ok? ie between Emitter > Base, Base > Collector?
I'm gunna do cap kit, but I still suspect the transistors... but im not 100% up to scratch with testing them. I'll have to do some more reading.
After writing down all the values of all the caps, I tested all the diodes. 1 gave a reading both ways, so i'll replace that and another one broke all together! So i'll replace those two and test.
The broken diode:
(http://www.lavingtonpanthersfc.com.au/images/backglass/eygo1.jpg)
The broken diode (top right)
and the non-working one (left)
(http://www.lavingtonpanthersfc.com.au/images/backglass/eygo2.jpg)
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I got this back from a repairer yesterday... There's now power to the board (I can hear the flyback transformer) and some static around the anode plug..
but no glow from the monitor neck :( at least im getting a bit closer.