Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Roughy on December 13, 2005, 12:16:43 pm
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Beyond the obvious quips of "a clue" and "a personality", I'm trying to figure out if I have everything I need to finish off this first MAME adventure I'm on.
Here's what I've got, either ordered, on the way or in some sort of general motion toward arriving on my door step:
UAII Cabinet Kit
CP (all joysticks, buttons, trackball parts)
Artwork for CP, Side, Marquee
Marquee Plexi
AMD2200+ w/1gb of RAM running XP Pro (have the option to upgrade to a Dell 2.4ghz 2400 machine w/1gb of RAM - any thoughts on that since I'd love to, you know, play EVERYTHING)
Fancy T-molding
Marquee Light Source
Fancy Neon stuff
21" monitor
Monitor Bezel thing (err, wait. I need one of these for 21" monitors--anyone?)
LED Lights for Buttons
KeyWIZ thing
HAPP Coin Door Mech
I cannot think of anything else at this point. Seems to me that I may be missing something like:
Some sort of a wiring harness thing? I'm not sure if anything comes with this or that, etc. But I always hear of this JAMMA thing that I'm admittedly clueless about.
Tokens
Anything else? Thanks--really appreciate the insight; this will help me not have to wait at the last minute when I think I'm just about ready to play!
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Okay, in retrospect here (and in looking at my UAII cab "manual") I see that I can get the bezel at Happ.
I can either get a 25" or a 27" bezel.
The UAII website states this, though:
Monitor Area Width: 27"
Monitor Area Height: 24 13/16"
Monitor Area Depth: 24 1/2"
So, perhaps hitting the local Wal~Mart, etc. for a 27" TV isn't a bad idea? I'm feeling a little lost on what some options are here. I've got a 21" monitor at my disposal, but I don't mind spending a little to get something better.
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A few screws.
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Going from a monitor to a TV is not something better.
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I'm just amazed that there are actually people who buy all of their supplies and materials before they start a job. I work until I realize I need something. Curse and yell, order part, wait three weeks for it to arrive, repeat.
-S
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IF you get a TV.. make sure the speakers are on the bottom or slim if they are on the side.
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Sounds like I'll keep the 21" monitor for now. No issues with that.
What about wires, etc? I mean... I've got all these buttons, etc. on their way and should I have some sort of a harness or something? Hey, I said I'm new...
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You don't need a harness. PM Peal and buy a couple rolls of wire and some QDs from him. Just wire your controls to the iPac. Locate the iPac close to the CP so the wires running to it don't need to be too long.
-S
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You don't need a harness. PM Peal and buy a couple rolls of wire and some QDs from him. Just wire your controls to the iPac. Locate the iPac close to the CP so the wires running to it don't need to be too long.
-S
iPac? This sounds like something I'm missing... What's "QDs" ?
Recommendations?
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Okay, okay.
The KEYwiz thing is the same as the "iPac", right? I'm good there. Sorry.
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QD is quick disconects. they are for the end of the wires so you can plug them into your buttons and joysticks
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Beyond the obvious quips of "a clue"
damn...
and "a personality"
Damn!
Well, I'm all out. ;D
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Some things you "might" need:
1) Marquee Retainer to hold your marquee artwork (and plexiglass cover) in place?
2) Maybe a spinner?
3) Do you have an actual Coin Door?
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
Any recommendations on that?
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You might as want to add a switch to turn on your cabinet (rather than having to go inside and flipping the computer on all the time). Maybe another switch to turn on the lights and sound.
I would use two switches in case you wanted to play at night while the kids/wife/guests are sleeping ... this way you could play without the lights and sound, but have your computer still on ..... just a thought.
Good luck!
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Great thought--great usability notion there.
Of course, the true benefit is that my rec room is in the basement and the bedrooms are way up high.
If they can hear it, then they can come down and play!
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basement ..... <aahhh> ..... <reaching for towel to catch drool> ....
Down in South Florida, a basement is only a dream, unless you want it filled with water ;D
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If they can hear it, then they can come down and play!
I like were your heads at..
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
Any recommendations on that?
Not sure what your budget is, but here's a good example:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7338641&type=product&productCategoryId=cat01055&id=1122651984180
-Has a headphone jack also, so you can have late night gaming goodness without disturbing the kids.
Also, pick up a bits ltd powerstrip:
http://www.bitsltd.net/SmartStrip/
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
Any recommendations on that?
Not sure what your budget is, but here's a good example:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7338641&type=product&productCategoryId=cat01055&id=1122651984180
-Has a headphone jack also, so you can have late night gaming goodness without disturbing the kids.
Here is another option, but it requires a little more time and money. The video is from http://www.retroblast.com an excellent site.
Video: http://www.retroblast.com/videos/Speakers.wmv
I was very happy with the results from following the video's instructions.
PC speakers (comes with a volume control) that I went with:
http://us.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=4&subcategory=27&product=461
Car speakers that I went with are two 5inch by 7inch Sony Xplod speakers.
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Thank you for that insight.
Thank you eBay for the quick hit $25 (plus shipping, of course) for the whole shabang. Awesome.
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
I'd like to contradict Havok. I say buy a so-so speaker set (under $25) and a pair of 6x9 8ohm 5watt speakers. Gut the speaker set and wire it up to the 6x9's. Mount the 6x9's tightly with bolts. You will get plenty of base once those suckers are mounted to your wood box (your cabinet becomes the sub).
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Are you getting the CP from mameroom too? ... and populating it yourself? Or are you cutting your own CP ? if so... make sure you have got all your tools in order...
You will need a crimp-tool/stripper for your QDs.
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No; CP from elsewhere--all set for that, I do believe; just trying to figure out what size of QDs I'll need...
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just trying to figure out what size of QDs I'll need...
Happ horizontal pushbuttons (cherry microswitches) use .187 QDs.
Happ coin door (like the one used in UAII) uses .250 QDs.
You can however use .250 QDs on .187 blades... many people do this but they don't fit perfect... if this doesn't bother you, .250 QDs are easily available in 100 packs at Home Depot.
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I found .187 at Home Depot.
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
I'd like to contradict Havok. I say buy a so-so speaker set (under $25) and a pair of 6x9 8ohm 5watt speakers. Gut the speaker set and wire it up to the 6x9's. Mount the 6x9's tightly with bolts. You will get plenty of base once those suckers are mounted to your wood box (your cabinet becomes the sub).
That will work. I guess it all depends on how much work you want to do. I suggested those speakers since I have heard them personally, and they rock. Also, since I am familiar with speaker design, and how the cabinet dimensions need to be created in a certain manner to achieve optimal results, let them do all the engineering to get the best sound.
I guess it all boils down to how good you want it to sound. Either method will work, but mine will sound better!
:)
P.S. Then again, we are talking about retro games, so does it really matter? I would think if you plan to have this double as a jukebox I would go the subwoofer route...
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Heh, I already got the XPLOD and the Creative speakers via eBay for what I consider to be very cheap--as in, less than $50 all inclusive, including shipping. I've had Sony XPLOD brand items before with no complaints and value the additional recommendations.
And I'll check out HD for the QDs since someone just Secret Santa'd me a gift card there. Gotta love the holidays.
As far as the jukebox goes... well, I might do that. I have to look at some options and see about splitting the cables; I've wired my home with about 18 wall-mounted speakers right now on multiple zones, but the recroom in the basement will be different; it'll have it's own zone audio and it's own MP3 player down there but I've given plenty of consideration to also just doing my own jukebox cabinet down there. Just depends upon placement and wiring and all that good stuff; I'll have to see where everything ends up--but thanks for the feedback again!
By the time I finish this, beyond being an addict and wanting to get into the little bartop cabinet, I may actually be able to act like I know what I did, too.
Seriously, thanks. I don't mean to gush, but this has been one of the best communities to get involved with--seems there aren't too many people that hold information hostage and that's really helped out.
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just trying to figure out what size of QDs I'll need...
Happ horizontal pushbuttons (cherry microswitches) use .187 QDs.
Happ coin door (like the one used in UAII) uses .250 QDs.
You can however use .250 QDs on .187 blades... many people do this but they don't fit perfect... if this doesn't bother you, .250 QDs are easily available in 100 packs at Home Depot.
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Is there a particular gauge of wire I should use? Anything in particular or special?
22 AWG is fine for control panel wiring.. Some people use 18 AWG... I prefer the lighter gauge in case there is a need to double or triple up on connections into QDs or your keyboard encoder.
I did however use 18 AWG for power supply connections (if you run separate +5 and/or +12 lines to the panel)
IMHO you should probably stay away from anything larger than 18 AWG, too bulky for what you need it for.
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And the "I cannot believe I F'ing forgot to ask it question":
How much is a good starting estimate? +about 25% for good measure, of course.
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How much is a good starting estimate? +about 25% for good measure, of course.
I'm assuming you are asking about how much wire? It really depends upon how big (#buttons, #sticks etc..) your controller is but...
Wire is fairly cheap so it does not hurt to get more than you need. I'd say 100 feet or so of several different colors. Some folks have used multi-conductor cable which also makes a nice finish.
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Get a good set of computer speakers with a subwoofer. Find a model that has a remote volume control, which you can mount somewhere inconspicuous...
Any recommendations on that?
Not sure what your budget is, but here's a good example:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7338641&type=product&productCategoryId=cat01055&id=1122651984180
-Has a headphone jack also, so you can have late night gaming goodness without disturbing the kids.
Here is another option, but it requires a little more time and money.
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So, hopefully, by the new year, I'll be rocking. I somehow doubt that, though; I'm sure I'm going to be in over my head for some of the wiring stuff.
Nah, once you have all the stuff in front of you it will all click into place. See the thing is, if I can do it, anybody can do it. :)
-S
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So, hopefully, by the new year, I'll be rocking.
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Today, pretty much all of my "stuff" for my control panel arrived (not including control panel).
What I was afraid would happen has happened.
I ordered a 3" translucent trackball:
http://www.happcontrols.com/trackballs/560110xx.htm
And that's what I got.
It's got some goofy cable-y thing connected to it, and I just kept thinking... "Hmm... there must be something, somewhere, that I have on-hand to connect this, right?"
I nosed through the KeyWizMax stuff I've got.
Nope.
I nosed through Happ's site and saw this:
http://www.happcontrols.com/trackballs/56011300k.htm
Wow. And, of course... Ouch.
Do I really need to spend another $40 to get a USB-PS/2 Trackball Interface Kit for Trackballs?
Or is there some other way to make this work?
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I think the minipac would have been the interface to use since it includes the TB connections. SInce you have a keywiz you probably need the happs interface or a mouse hack to connect your tb. If I missed something sorry but just picked up on this thread.
Bob
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Yeah, that's what I'm saying/asking:
I just got a trackball with some 2x3 pin connector rectangle thing that doesn't really connect to anything else I've got, so it appears to me that I need to shell out some more $ and get the adapter to make it ps2 or USB.
I'm just mildly annoyed by it and the additional week or so wait time before I'll be able to do anything with it now and was hoping there'd be a trackball hack.
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There is a trackball hack. It is called using a USB or PS2 ball type mouse guts.
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I did some searching, but not with tons of success.
Is there a link anyone knows of?
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http://members.shaw.ca/bakaye/tballhack.htm
http://www.mameworld.net/massive/How-to/Trackball_Hack/trackball_hack.html
http://www.willcoxonline.com/mame/controlpanel/controlpanel.htm
http://www.russprince.com/cabinet/trackball.html
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...and here's the nice thing about living 15 miles from Happ...
I just picked up the adapter (Mamie was kind enough to take it with her to their holiday party so I could pick it up since they closed for the holiday!).
Rock on! Now I'm firing it up...
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Also wanted to add that I've just done the speaker hack... wow, what awesome sound from the 5x7 Xplod speakers from the cabinet.
Mighty inexpensive and mighty, mighty easy.
Kudos for the suggestion!
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what type of wires did you get/use. .22 or .18 gauge and are they stranded or solid?
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The Xplod's come with their own wires--they come with 12" for each speaker.
Check out the link previously in the thread--all I had to do then was disconnect the Creative speakers from their casing and splice into those existing wires. They had RCAs on them, so I connected them directly to the amp/bass and it was all good.
Total time: MAYBE 12 minutes, and that's just because I struggled getting the speakers apart.
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http://www.retroblast.com/articles/speakers.html
Link to the article on retroblast...
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i was refering to in general for when you wire the cp parts. though for the speakers are you connecting them to a pc or to a game board?
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I used mostly 22; just to keep it simple for me.
I wired the speakers to the bass/amp and hooked it into the PC