Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Zinfari on January 29, 2003, 04:31:45 pm
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Well I'm at that point where it's time to cut/trim the 1/8" lexan for my cp. As it's running about $24/piece (cut just slightly larger than my cp). I'm trying to figure out the best way to cut it down (my piece of lexan is square, so I need to take off triangle pieces when it tapers in). I've heard everything from use your normal hole saws and possibly a plastics saw blade to use a router to trim it after you drill out small holes in the wood cp portion. Would you just use a laminate trim bit for the router or is there another special bit that you would use here?
What is the general concensus or other ideas. I'm like most folks and only want to do this once.
In case it matters its a 4 player cp with 3 trackballs and a spinner (yes 3 trackballs... I'm a rampart junkie and my cab while being scratch built is also fully Jamma enabled, just for Rampart.) The 3 trackballs are hi-ball and i'd like to flush mount them, but haven't finalized that. I can router out the thickness of the mounting plate for the trackball and flush mount that before I add the lexan is the thought. Any thoughts on this would also be welcomed.
Pardon the ascii... but it seemed the easiest. The top is 46", the sides 10" then a 45 degree angle to the bottom so the bottom length is 26".
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Thanks,
-Zinfari
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Lexan Melts When hot. I used a router with a very sharp laminate blade. Make sure to leave the paper coating on when cutting. It will avoid scratches and Minimize splits.
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Can someone point me to the appropriate bit. I have looked a laminate trim bits and there are a ton. Just want to make sure I'm getting the right tool.
-Zinfari
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I cut all my Plexi with a Dremel and a SIDECUT bit (I think thats the name) you get a cup shaped attatchment and the bits in most dremel sections. The cup shapped thing keeps your Dremel straight, and has cut outs so you can follow lines. Worked very well, no cracks while cutting small button holes and joystick spots. very easy to use also. Just a thought, I made all my major cuts on a table saw with the blade backwords.
Clok
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Lexan Melts When hot. I used a router with a very sharp laminate blade. Make sure to leave the paper coating on when cutting. It will avoid scratches and Minimize splits.
so is it a no-no to use the same bit you drilled your wood with? What about if you take it slow so it doesn't melt?
or so what if it does melt? just use a razor to scrape that off the hole?
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Lexan Melts When hot. I used a router with a very sharp laminate blade. Make sure to leave the paper coating on when cutting. It will avoid scratches and Minimize splits.
so is it a no-no to use the same bit you drilled your wood with? What about if you take it slow so it doesn't melt?
or so what if it does melt? just use a razor to scrape that off the hole?
Lexan is such tough material and it melts so completely that the material will sometimes bond itself right back together behind the cut.
The trick is to use a very sharp bit, like Gary said, and to experiment with speeds and feeds. You want the material to come off in small chips, not melt into a blob. Faster router speeds aren't always better with this stuff (friction=heat, etc...)
RandyT
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Table Saw. The more teeth the better. 80=Good.